mgw flyer

Hi all. I just got my first kit, the TINY-X from Todd's Models. This is my first model and my first building job. I must say, it's been fun and not as hard as I thought it would be (although I'm sure this kit is cake compared to something bigger). I'm almost ready to do the covering. This makes me nervous. I want the plane to look nice and the covering will show more than anything.
I'm wondering if anyone could give me some tips on how to do it or point me to a good website with good instructions and pictures on how to get the job done. Also, what tools will I need? Can I use a high watt hair dryer? I think I've also seen somewhere that another TINY-X owner used Saran Wrap to cover theirs. Is this possible? I think that would be cheaper and I could always easily redo it if it gets punctured or ripped. Any help on this matter would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

SHANE

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Stick with regular covering and leave the Saran wrap for your sandwiches.

Here's a link to a covering article here on RCU, I hope you find it helpful:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/reviews.ph...ew&reviewid=67

The hairdryer probably won't work, but if you know someone with a paint stripper type of heat gun, that will work.

I would also recommend trying Ultracote. It is more user friendly that MonoKote.

mgw flyer

Thanks for the link. So, according to that article, I need a covering iron and a heat gun. Also, the article makes reference to the term "tack" several times. What exactly does that mean?

SHANE

sizam

My Feedback: (6)

It means hold the covering where you want it and hold the iron to it at equally spaced intervals. Its like you're using the iron to press thumb 'tacks' into the covering to hold it in place.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Like sizam said, hold the covering in place and lightly touch the tip of the iron to it to hold that area in place (as if you had stuck a thumbtack in it). Once all of the sides are tacked down, you can seal the edges without the opposite edge creeping up on you because it is being held in place by the "tacks".

KJohn

I would highly recommend that you make some small structures out of scrap balsa and cover them. That way you can make mistakes but catch on quickly to what works and what doesn't work. Specifically you need to 'know' what amount of heat is 'just right' and how much the material can be 'shrunk' over various types of structures. It is hard to believe that a person can do a nice job on the very first attempt at using any covering material because one has to get a 'feeling' for the limits of the material in both stretching and shrinking. But once those limits are recognized then covering becomes rather straight forward. Covering scrap pieces gets you past the initial 'hump' in the learning curve and you will probably end up with a good finish job on your model in less time and with less hassle.

Specifically, try tacking the covering material at strategic points to reduce the amount of stretching of the covering material with a heat gun. Tension is required on the excess material to prevent it from pulling between tack spots. I generally make a few tack spots then tack between those spots then again between all the above, etc. until I have the entire section tacked down then I use the heat gun or an iron with a rag around it. I also 'sneak' the heat to the covering so that I am using the minimum required to properly shrink the covering. If you become too aggressive with the heat source you might burn through the material and that would be a shame as it wastes covering material and time.

For tools I use a heat gun or iron covered with a cloth, sharp scissors, Xacto blades, and a metal straight edge. I generally cover the bottom of a structure first then work my way to the top of the structure.

Again, playing around with the covering material before serious application of the material will pay off in the long run.

PDF

I picked up a video from Tower Hobbies ( Monokote, secrets of a great covering job with Monokote ) It was great to see it done and picked up a few tips. To me it was worth it since it was my first covering job. Hope this helps, and good luck.

Pat

mgw flyer

Thanks for all the tips! I do have some scrap balsa left over. Practicing on that sounds like a good idea. I want this thing to look nice. Sounds like I've got some work to do!

lownslo

My LHS has covering videos for rent. They charge
a whole dollar!!! You might check with your LHS.
lownslo

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

I agree with the advice above. But if you use a paint stripper, be REAL careful. A friend set the balsa on fire with one.

Saran Wrap is a valid covering material, especially for small, light electrics. If you want to check the process, go to EZone and search for Saran Wrap. It's quite light, and also shrinkable.

Practice is great advice. If you have enough excess balsa, do try to build an open square to cover. Applying and shrinking covering on an open bay is quite different than a solid surface.

http://www.ezonemag.com/

Dennis-