splais

My Feedback: (25)

I have only used Ultracoat up to now; but recently purchased a plane covered in Monocoat. I have tried several times to iron out some wrinkles in the stuff. Have had the iron all the way up to 275 degrees with no luck.

Is it just me, or is this stuff crap that you cannot reshrink. I have developed a complete distain for Monocoat at this point and would never cover a plane with it. Any suggestions are appreciated.

waagbuck

My Feedback: (1)

You can reshrink monokote quite a lot, but it has a point beyond which it will not shrink. That's my guess as to why you can't remove those last wrinkles. In my experience, a heat gun is a lot more effective at removing wrinkled monokote, especially over open bays.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

Monokote works great. I have never seen a wrinkle you can't get out unless it is a fold. Use the heat gun carefully so you don't blow a hole in it.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

This plane (Balsa Nova) is completely sheeted, no open areas. I will give my air gun a try and see how that works. the iron is not even close to fixing it.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Splais:

Film covering over sheeting often requires rubbing with a soft cloth while hot to remove wrinkles. Heat alone doesn't work.

Bill.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

Also, if you make a bubble in it, you can poke it and work the air out the hole to make it go away. Monokote is good at getting air bubbles between it and the wood, especially if it wasn't covered right. Not saying that one isn't, but sounds more like you are fighting bubbles than sags.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.
Poke - heat - rub - repeat.

You stopped too soon. I might have also.

Bill.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

OK, I've tried everything: heat gun, iron, poke,poke,poke, etc. Nothing has worked. the only thing I can think of is that the guy that built it, over heated the covering when he applied it and took out all the shrink. When I get home tonight I will try and get some CLOSEUP pictures so you guys can see it.

Live Wire

Try a hot sock on your iron, and make sure you are in a cool place, a air cond. room if possible, with iron on high!Cotton sock will keep the iron from melting MC. and a lite pressure will bound covering and help remove bubbles!

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

The proper temperature to get MonoKote to fully shrink is just below the melting point of the material. I usually use a scrap piece to set the temperature of my iron. When it starts to melt, I back down the temp. If MonoKote's finish is dulling when you apply the iron, it's still a bit too hot. You should have the iron just below that point.

Also, please be aware that most sealing irons don't hold a constant temperature. They cool off, then the heating element 'kicks in', they warm up, shut off, and start cooling to start the whole cycle over again. Sometimes temperature swings can be as high as 30-40 degrees F. A good iron keeps it within about 10 degrees.