Terry Bolin

My Feedback: (7)

I final sand my balsa with 1,000 grit wet dry paper to get the best finish possiable for me when i paint or cover the plane....why would you prep a plane and then run this wood pecker over the wood???? Would it not show through the covering as damage????
Share what you know!
Thanks, Terry

blikseme300

My Feedback: (118)

Terry,

When applying film covering over larger areas it is quite easy to trap air and create bubbles or creases in the covering. The wood pecker was designed to help in preventing this. I have used it, but the holes were noticeable through the covering. I use a sharp skinny pin to puncture the balsa in a pattern with about 1/2" between holes. A light sanding after, remove the dust and cover away.

Another advantage of the relief holes is that when the aircraft is exposed to the sun bubbles are less likely to form.

Bliksem

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I still feel the wood packer is one of those tools that should never have been put on the market. It's just aother item to sell to the people just getting into the hobby. Once you have covered a few planes you will develope little ticks so you don't get air bubbles and your plane will look a lot better for it. It's one of the tools I have filed under JUNK.

noveldoc

My Feedback: (2)

I love it.

Just don't press too hard.

Tom

Augie11

I'm another fan. I've never seen the slashes through the covering-but then I only sand down to 400 grit before covering. Another great use for this tool is before joining plywood to plywood or plywood to balsa using epoxy. The 'holes' give you much more surface area to glue. I use a sharp oil pick as well but the woodpeckar is neater and faster.
Just don't drop it on your (bare) foot.

rafeeki

My Feedback: (11)

Thought I would attach a picture of my Stearman taken a while ago. Used the pin to puncture the air bubbles after they formed although there wernt many. The pecker wasnt around then.
Anyone guess where this is taken at?

huck1199

I use a dress maker's tracer wheel on foam parts before applying epoxy.  On wood I use pin holes.

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

I used it on my 4 Seasons 40. It appears to work. I'll use it again.

Jim

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I only use mine for glue surfaces. Especially ply or skinning foam.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

For gluing surfaces it's okay. For what it is marked for it's junk. Just my two cents,
John

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I used it, didn't care for it, I went back to using my balsa block with pins spaced every 3/4" , 4 rows and 10 pins per a row.

SitNFly

My Feedback: (54)

Run it over the surface, then sand. Blow out the holes with your compressor before covering. I quit using it most of the time now though because you figure out how to get air out from under the covering without it eventually. Also works when putting on trim; run it over the covering beneath and it reduces bubbles in your trim pieces.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Kittyhawk NC???

airbusdrvr

I use the woodpecker, but not on wood. I use it when a covering job requires more than one layer of Ultracote(windshield patterns, numbers, etc.). The holes in the base layer do not show through in the top layer and most gas(bubble) build up is relieved.

Clay Walters

Interesting responses. I love the thing. Especially for overlapping pieces and I'm going to try it now to provide more adhesion surface...good suggestion. And if you use it aggressively enough it truly does minimize the bubbling over sheeted areas. I'd rather see the pecker marks thru the covering than blisters on the surface.

Fortunately you don't see either when its flying around,

Clay

daven

My Feedback: (1)

The Moon?

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

I have had one for about 15 years. Used it twice.

arobatto

My Feedback: (5)

In the 30+ years I've been building and covering models, I have yet to try this contraption - or anything like it. My good friend and experienced builder swears by it so I convinced myself to buy one and try it. I would agree with others of its merits as used for overlaping covering or trim. I tried it on balsa prior to covering and noted the holes through the covering - I will not be trying that application again!

I'll stick to my tried and trued method of using my #11 blade to lightly poke the covering as I encounter bubbling whilst applying heat to it.

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

I use it all the time for applying Ultracoat on top of Ultracoat. It works great for that. Good Luck, Dave

crash bandicoute

i have one and the only time i used it was for the sheeted areas on my RV-4 before ironing down the monocrap. saw right through it. now i've figured out the tacking down the edges and shrinking with the heat gun. maybe i'll give it another try. definitely going to with the trim covering over base colors. we'll see how that works out. i'm getting ready to cover my new kadet MKII. can't get anymore sheeted than that thing.

and i'm going to guess the desert over in 'Stan-land', or Saudi or Kuwait...

rafeeki

My Feedback: (11)

Saudi

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Ditto...

Brian

Terry Bolin

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks guys.. the thing I found intresting was the post up toward the top that stated the wood pecker did help avoid bubbles when the plane was in the sun and hot...that sounds good..
Thanks for everyone who chimed in! Build alot this winter!
Terry B

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Use it too hard on a solid stab and risk flight failure. I never had it happen to me but I've read about it here on RCU. Yes that anecdoctal evidence but so is using it to avoid bubbbles in monokote in the summer. In my opinion doing a proper covering job, including air holes between ribs that exit into the fuselage to prevent pressure build up and keeping the model in the shade do far more preventing bubbles than the wood pecker. Use a temperature controlled iron when covering so you don't overheat the covering. Get it as flat as possible by tacking the corners. See Minflyer's covering videos. I also use thinned balsarite on solid surfaces, it aids in preventing bubbling by adhering the covering firmly to the wood. It also aids surface prep by sealing the wood and after a light sanding all the fuzz is gone.
John