AMR TRAINER 20
#51
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
CanDo;
I like what you did on the wing; but with a 8+ lb airplane, I will be using metal bolts. As for the landing gear, the need to make the gear easy to ship doesn't carry much with me, a two piece gear will load up one side of the fuse if you happen to land funny. I think I will build a plate to carry across the gap. Did you have any fit issues with the dowel and the holes cut in the control surfaces?
L.
I like what you did on the wing; but with a 8+ lb airplane, I will be using metal bolts. As for the landing gear, the need to make the gear easy to ship doesn't carry much with me, a two piece gear will load up one side of the fuse if you happen to land funny. I think I will build a plate to carry across the gap. Did you have any fit issues with the dowel and the holes cut in the control surfaces?
L.
#52
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
Cherokee,
There is a problem with using metal bolts here for the wings. The wings bolts screw into metal T-nuts. If you use a metal bolt you will risk the bolts vibrating loose in flight. The nylon bolts won't vibrate like metal bolts will. The nylon bolts are strong enough to secure the wing to the fuselage.
Ken
There is a problem with using metal bolts here for the wings. The wings bolts screw into metal T-nuts. If you use a metal bolt you will risk the bolts vibrating loose in flight. The nylon bolts won't vibrate like metal bolts will. The nylon bolts are strong enough to secure the wing to the fuselage.
Ken
#53
RE: AMR TRAINER 20
I agree with Ken, I have 1/4x20 nylon bolts on my 10lb Sr Telemaster and my 12 1/2 lb BUSA Pup with no problems. Sometimes old nylon bolts (and props) get brittle, it's probably a good idea to replace them every year or two when you change your fuel line. I had the head pop off of a older nylon bolt when the plane was just sitting in the pits.
#55
RE: AMR TRAINER 20
Nope, the great thing about this hobby is you can have it your way! I've been building R/C planes for ~20 years and model planes for ~50 years, it's all about what works for you. All I'm saying is I've never had a nylon wing bolt fail in flight. FYI, I did use smaller steel bolts in my 19 lb OV-10 Bronco with some blue Loctite, just to be safe.
#56
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
Well have the two coats of nitrate dope on the fuse and stab parts. I think I will rig all the fuse controls before I go on to the wing. It is a nice kit; sure like laser cut over "crush" cut anytime! You are right, there are many diffrent ways to do things, and that is what makes this hobby great. My father was a modeler from his teen years; so I grew up with it. I still have his Quaker he built in 1937.
L.
L.
#57
RE: AMR TRAINER 20
Passing the hobby on is special; I still have my Dad's "Spirit of St Louis" he hand carved after Lindberg's flight.
To answer your question, the dowels in the elevator and rudder seemed to fit OK, but I secured them with epoxy just to be sure.
To answer your question, the dowels in the elevator and rudder seemed to fit OK, but I secured them with epoxy just to be sure.
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
I think mine will get a 1/16" X 1" ply square on each side. That is one place you don't want things to be able to come loose. It isn't like that little bit of drag will hurt!
L.
L.
#62
RE: AMR TRAINER 20
The wing tips were a little challenging, so I took a couple of pictures before I covered the wing. The first shot shows all the pieces that make up the tip assembly, plus I epoxied a washer on the tip to balance the wing. The second one shows the lower spars cut flush with W12.
#63
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
While the instructions didn't call for it Ichoose to extend the main spar on the bottom of the wing tip and then sand it down to wing tip edge. I did this to give a little bit of an extra place to seal down the covering material when doing the wing tips.
Ken
Ken
#66
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
ORIGINAL: heritageman
One question I have is would it have been better to have a big block of balsa on the wing tips and carve them to shape ?
One question I have is would it have been better to have a big block of balsa on the wing tips and carve them to shape ?
I don't think so really. While the design looks a bit odd here " in the bones", once it's covered the wings look fine. Idon't see any reason to add anything to what is already there.
Ken
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
Hello all,
The way the wing tip was design is very simple and ligth weight. Of course, there are many ways to do the same thing. we choose this way to keep a vintage look even at the wing tip. The top main spar is the one that need to reach the half rib found over the wing tip. I dont think it is necessarry to make the lower main spar longer but it does not affect anything so far and the idea is quit good. And your plane look so good in the air... Ken, have you start doing the training with the plane?
The way the wing tip was design is very simple and ligth weight. Of course, there are many ways to do the same thing. we choose this way to keep a vintage look even at the wing tip. The top main spar is the one that need to reach the half rib found over the wing tip. I dont think it is necessarry to make the lower main spar longer but it does not affect anything so far and the idea is quit good. And your plane look so good in the air... Ken, have you start doing the training with the plane?
#68
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RE: AMR TRAINER 20
ORIGINAL: vibi08
... Ken, have you start doing the training with the plane?
... Ken, have you start doing the training with the plane?
Ken