Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

Never did much soldering before and when I do the joint is always weak and brittle. So, trying to get educated but everything I find on the webdeals with soldering two electrical wires together or circuit boards. Can someone give me some advice on how to solder thicker guage pushrods to solder links for my aileron and elevator pushrod connectors? Plus, what type iron and equipment I need, etc.

Also, I need to solder tiny, thinlittle 2/56 washers onto atailwheel wire to keep the wheel in place. Any suggestions/alternatives for that?

Feel free to refer to the manual to see what I'm talking about.

http://www.sigmfg.com/BuildManuals/S...saryCubP4.html

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

This article starts with soldering electrical wires, but goes on to describe pushrod connectors:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=172]A Beginner's Guide to Soldering[/link]

For your tail wheel, you can use the pushrod method of soldering, or you could just use JB Weld

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

As always Mike, you're a tremendous asset to this community. Thank you!

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

The key to soldering is heat...the right amount, in the right place, at the right time.  Wires, rods, Deans plugs...whatever.  Doesn't matter.

davidgeorge212

sometimes for tail wheel washers, I put the washer inplace first and then I push on a scrap peice of fuel tubing over the wire. Then you can turn the tail wheel wire so that the washer rests flat on top of the fuel tubing and solder it on the top side of the washer. Once the solder cools you can remove the fuel tubing and put your wheel on and solder the other washer in place to keep the wheel from coming off.

crossman

It is also vital that whatever you are soldering, (wires, pushrods or copper pipe) be cleaned thoroughly. Get it clean and bright then don't let it touch anything until you put the flux on. If the material is not clean, the solder won't stick properly.

Great article, Mike.

ARUP

Little tailwheels are tricky! Here's one method. Get brass tube to slip over tailwheel axle. Cut a proper length. Solder a washer on one end of tube. Solder another washer to wire at the bend for the axle portion. Drill tailwheel to fit brass tube. Put wheel onto brass tube- the soldered washer will retain it. Epoxy this onto wire. You can go one step further and paint the wheel and washer before assembly. Very tidy! If you ever need to get it apart just gently heat it with solder iron until epxoy gets soft then pull apart.

You can modify this proceedure and instead of soldering washer to tube drill a hole across diameter of tube to fit a cotter pin which abuts the washer that holds the wheel on axle. I do this for the mains. When I do this I solder the tubes onto the wires but I suppose you could use epoxy here, too.

airbusdrvr

I have used JB Weld for a good number of years in place of soldering metal clevises to connecting rods. It all started with a metal clevis that had to be soldered to a 4-40 rod inside the plane. I didn't think my solder pen would do the job. My solder gun was inop so conducted a test using a 4-40 control rod and solder clevis. I roughed the rod end a little and did a little of the same on the inside of the clevis hole. Then I llightly coated the rod end and the inside of the clevis hole with JB Weld. Next morning I put the clevis in my vise and attached a channel lock plier to the 4-40 rod and pulled with all my might. Finally the clevis gave and came apart. But the JB Weld bond held firm. In reality, I think JB Weld is better than solder in that it is more predicable.

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

I just spent another hour trying to get a good solder but each time I think I got it the joint doesn't hold even under light hand tugging. Moving on to JB Weld until I can get a solder gun. I think my pen iron is a little too weak for thicker stuff. Takes about 5 minutes to get the rod hot enough to melt the solder.

twn

go get your self a cheap solder gun, the kind thats heats red hot. I got mine from princess auto for 20 bucks, sand the push rod so it is clean and rough. use flux. the solder will go where ever the flux is. tin the rod (tin means to pre coat with solder) Pre-heat the part to be soldered melt some solder into the connector, not much. clean the two ends, flux again and heat them together. I just use 2 vise grips to hold them when heating them together. You don't need very much solder. When you are doing couplings the solder will squirt out when pushed together watch you don't get burned.

when you pre-solder the two parts it garrentees a sold connection between the two.

the trick is to clean and rough up with sand paper and use a gun and use flux. the cleaning gives the solder something to grab. works every time. I never bother to sand inside the connector, never been a problem, most solder connectors are already pre-tinned...


I use regular electrical (rosin core) solder purchased from radio shack. I can't pull mine apart with pliers... In fact I just did the 4-40 throttle linkage for my 30% yak54 last night like this.

Don't use acid core solder. I use to use silver solder but switched to rosin core (cheaper) works just as good. Rosin is a type of built in flux. I have even done this with pull pull connectors. works great.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

There is a lot of good advice here but another key is proper flux. Flux that is compatible with the solder you are using is often overlooked or some use none at all. Not a good idea. Flux is cheap!!! Plus it is great insurance to be comfortable that the solder joint is prepared correctly. Even when using a rosin core solder (and i know a lot of fellows will argue this) but i still use flux for the reasons mentioned above. Even flux the tip of your soldering iron. You will be amazed at the difference it can make it achieving the type of results you are looking for.

loser

My Feedback: (37)

Something i also do when soldering "threaded brass couplers" onto pushrod wire is to crimp small grooves into the wire with dykes or small bolt cutters. This gives the solder little depressions to "key into" for extra hold. Could also do this when soldering washers onto landing gear wire. I have several sizes of irons BUT prefer to use my little pencil torch whenever possible. As said before...HEAT and cleanliness is key. The torch heats up wire, clevisses, washers, etc, much quicker!!
Steve

dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

If your joint always ends up dull and weak, you're not using enough heat. That may be due to improper technique and/or a too small soldering iron. The main thing to keep in mind is that the objects being soldered need to be heated until they melt the solder. Many people let the iron tip do the melting. This is incorrect and will end up in what is called a"cold" solder joint. Put a small dab of solder on the tip of your iron to act as a heat "bridge", hold the tip against both parts needing to be joined, then touch the solder to a point opposite to where the tip is touching. When the metal gets hot enough, it will melt the solder and it will "flow" around the joint towards the solder-tip. Pull the tip and the solder away at this time and let the joint cool at its own rate. If you follow this procedure but can't get the solder to melt, you need a bigger iron.
Somebody pointed out the use of flux. Added flux, beyond what's in the core of the solder is never a bad idea. Just be sure to clean up any residue left behind after the joint cools.

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

I think my iron islacking and will be buying a soldering gun today or tomorrow and give it another go. Thanks for all the great advice.

ARUP

I agree with the posts pertaining to proper flux- solder combo, cleanliness and the use of a torch. I get better results, for mechanical apps like these, with a torch than an iron. The torch puts the heat out more 'broadly' than an iron can. Be sure to really clean the parts after joining. I 'taste test' them after washing. You'll know if flux is still present by the acidic 'taste'! I'll have to try some JB Weld. Lots of folks use it and on some very big birds, too! It must be good!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

They have an expression up here in Minnesota:

JB Weld - When Duct Tape just won't do.

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

After wasting time last night I did some looking and found I hadnew tubes ofJBWeld laying with some other adhesives on my workbench.Then I remembered I bought them when I bought my Cub kit a couple years ago. The LHS guy asked me if I knew how to solderand when I said no he tossed me the tubes and said "Just in case." I had forgotten about that. Anyways, I applied the JBWeld to a pushrod this morning so I'll report tonight how it adhered. I still want to get a soldering gun just because I HATE to give up without learning how to solder successfully.

BTW, any sodlering in the .60 size GP Super Sportster build. Thinking of building that one next. Looks like a fun airplane.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Don't stress them too much tonight. The only bad thing about JB Weld is that it takes a good 24 hours to fully cure

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

Mike, can you tell me what Watt your soldering gun is? My iron is 25W and when I talked to the guy at the hardware store he didn't think the 75W gun I was holding was strong enough for what I was describing to him (had no clue what a pushrod was) . Anyways, he recommended a torch. Your illustration shows a soldering gun so I know its possible to use a gun. What watt should Iget?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

My gun is 100 watts. You local Wal mart or home store probably has one

Boomerang1

I have no problems at all with threaded brass couplers.

Step 1: throw them in the rubbish.

Step 2: replace them with the bigger threaded STEEL couplers & larger 4 40 rods.

After having one of these fail (right where the thread begins) on the elevator of a 40 powered model (with predictable results! [X(]) they are now in the never ever file. - John.

Zor

Here is a picture of my faborite iron.
It is an American Beauty of 100 watts.

An iron must have enough metal in the tip to have accumulated enough heat so it does not cool appreciably while supplying heat.

I also have a Weller gun of dual heat 100 watts and 140 watts but the type of tip does not have the mass of metal to accumulate the heat. It is fine to solder big wires such as 14 or 12 gauge.

I also have a 30 watts fine tip iron for printed board work.

For soldering landing gear wire like 1/8"dia i can use the 100 watts iron or a propane torch. The type with a 14 oz fuel can.

You have had lots of good advice in this thread.

Zor

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

I use my grandfathers 100w WEN 199K gun..
It it can't solder it, it'll melt it..

As the others said.. clean, flux and enough heat to get it done quickly..

I find when I have long heating times the surfaces tend to oxidize and not take the solder..

Also a crusty iron will not transfer heat well. clean the tip, tin it and it'll get the job done fast..

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

SUCCESS!!! I bought a 100W soldering gun at Ace hardware for $40 and what a difference having a little education andthe right tools makes. I just soldered 8 joints for my fin and stabbrace wires in about ten minutes. The gun tip stays cool until you squeeze the trigger. Then it gets blazing hot in about 5 seconds. Used a flux paste and once I applied the tinned tip to theconnector I only needed a few seconds before the solder began to flow and wick nicely. All of my joints passed a stress test within 5 minutes of soldering. Thanks for the great advice fellas.

BTW, it is snowing here in Southern Wisconsin. Three days ago it was near 80 degrees. Gotta love Spring time in the north; NOT. Sooo glad I have a kit to work on.

dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

Glad to hear that you finally had success. RCU is a great site for learning new skills and techniques. This thread has also given me a solution to a problem I've been having. The landing gear and cabanes on my 1/4 scale Sopwith pup call for being soldered together. No matter what technique I've tried, I can't get them to take solder (they're music wire wrapped in copper). The solder sticks to the copper, but I'm far from satisfied with its attachment to the music wire. I hadn't thought of using JB Weld before participating in this thread. Thanks guys!