rickbrad

My Feedback: (30)

Can anyone give me some advice or recommend a method for attaching wing sheeting to ribs? I am leaning towards yellow wood glue because of the increased positioning time but I struggle with a way to hold the stuff down to the ribs.

I have seen folks use stacks of magazines. Ihave those.

I am just about ready to apply some sheeting to a wing this afternoon but don't want to end up having to rip sheeting attached with CA from my ribs because Iscrewed up when putting it down.

jp_boud

My Feedback: (2)

You could try using Thick CA, it dries slower than Medium CA, but much faster than wood glue. Also it will help fill any "irregularites" on the surface between your ribs and the sheeting. I just used this method yesterday while sheeting my turtle deck and it worked very well!

edit....and now that I see your US Brotherhood #.....it was the turtle deck sheeting on my US 60.....ok....so it was sheeting against stringers! (same concept)

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Use Tightbond and an iron. Mark the approximate locations of the ribs on the sheeting, then spread a layer of glue on the sheeting and on the ribs. Let it dry, then get your wife's iron, or possibly a covering iron on high temp (wool), and iron the the sheeting down. The heat will reactivate the glue for a short time, and it will bond up very secure, almost instantly. This also works well on foam wings. Experiment on some extra parts, to get a good feel for the correct temp ect.
Check post #40 & 41 in this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_82..._2/key_/tm.htm

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Like TLH101 said Tightbond and a iron. I have all the sheeting glued together and sanded then put glue on the ribs and lay the sheeting on. I take the sheeting off, the glue from the ribs will have transfered to the sheeting, using a acid brush I put more glue on the sheeting where the glue marks are, and maybe a little more on the ribs if they look like there's any spot with out glue coverage. Let it dry, then Iron it down.

rickbrad

My Feedback: (30)

Thanks guys, Iwill definitly try the iron on method. I have plenty of Titebond to play with. Iguess this will work with Titebond II, the waterproof version?

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Rick,

Does the sheeting butt up against the LE, or over it?

If it butts up to it, I would do this using wood glue:

Use masking tape and only glue the LE of the sheeting against the LE. Let this set up as shown in the pics.

Now you can use CA wetted down with windex (ammonia) or wood glue. It will take a little longer, but your butt joint will be cleaner.

If the LE glues over the LE:

Use masking tape to hold down the LE tight.


I go through A LOT of blue tape when using aliphatic resins...

Brian

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Thick CA. On wing sheeting I am able to do the first side of a wing with thin then thick on the bottom when I can't get at the inside.I'm building a round fuse at the moment so I took a shot of the fuse before the last piece of sheeting was added. I glue down an edge then wet the wood with a mist bottle, it will almost bend itself.

saramos

I use the iron down method too. It works very well.

Another tip is to glue the balsa sheets together so you can cover one side of a wing panel with a single piece. Sand both sides of the sheet smooth before applying it to the wing. Once applied to the wing, you will have little sanding to do, and a more even skin than sanding after applied to the wing. If you sand the skin after it is applied to the wing, the sheet will bow between the ribs and the skin will be sanded more over the ribs, giving a 'starved horse' look.

Scott