redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Andy,
That pattern you are looking for has to be on the plans. Look on the sheet that has the templates for the flap and aileron skins, I think you are overlooking it. Hope this helps.

oldtyme

Gary............thank you, thank you, thank you...........I was overlooking it........silly me I thought it would be where it would be used....on the fuse plans.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Andy,
Gary is right, the pattern for the filletsis on the plans where you have all the other patterns like the aileron and flap templates.. I think it also has the patterns for the cowl chin blocks...

As far as the Razor, I understand exactly what you are talking about and have some pictures that might help you past this.. The razor is kind of tricky to sheet...

There are plenty of ways to skin the cat so to say, this is how I decided to do it and it came out great...
When ever I have a tight cure, I always spray down my wood (both sides) with water and ammonia.. I just mix them about 75% water to ammonia in a spray bottle.. Once I have the wood good and workable I pin it in place and let it dry over night.. Pic #1-2-3 As you can see in pic 4 the next day, the wood has taken the shape.. Then I just trim and sand to fit and glue with Tite Bond and pin in place..

I got some pics of how I did the fillets that might help you out, I will post them up in a bit..

Jimbo

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Little trick I did on my fillets..

The razor sheeting stops at former 9, glue it to the former and trim it flush to the backside.. Then you will have to add some scrap to the back of former 9 to glue the fillet in place. I always save my sheets that I punch the formers out,so I just traced the scrap off the cut out sheet.. Pic 1

Now after I cut out the fillets from the templates, I soaked them down with my water and ammonia and wrapped them around a paint can and taped them to dry over night Pic2.. Pic 3-4 show how they hold the shape the next day.. Then I sanded the little suckers till I had them fitting like i wanted and glued them in... Pic 5-6 show the end results... I hope this helps you out some.......

Jimbo

oldtyme

Jimbo...........thank you so much for the help. Those pictures will really help me out a bunch. I am finishing sheeting the forward part of the fuse and then I will attack the "razor". Then I am going to figure out how to make a compartment for all the switches, air valve, fuel dot, etc and a hatch cover so all will be enclosed in the fuse. I figure that this will be easier before I start to build the bottom of the fuse.

Once again, thanks for responding........it really helps for us old guys to learn new tricks.

Andy

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Note:
The back side of the fillets I sanded a taper where they meet the Fin and stab, That's the only way to get a nice tight fit.. It all gets filler, but the better you do them, the less filler you need to use.. I did mine right before I poured my first Vodka and orange juice, could have went south in a hurry...

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Any time Andy..

That is the great thing about this hobby, you always learn new things..

Gary has you covered on ides on the hatches, his came out great................

Jimbo

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I'm doing the easy way for the razor back. I got the fiberglass from from WylieWarbirds.
Edwin

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Boy that sure does make it easy, wish I would have known about those...


I sheeted the bottom of the fuse with the exception of the very bottom, still waiting on retracts...errrrrr


Any way, got my TF cockpit... What a real gem that littlePOS is.... Was wondering if you guys could post up your pics of yours, mine looks like it is to small, but I could be wrong.. I double checked the part number and i did getthe one for the GS.... I would like to see how you guy installed it as well as painted...

Jimbo

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I quit drinking while building years ago, I know what you mean Jimbo! LOL

Glad you found the template Andy, I think we have all been there before. I remember back when there was this big pile of wood on my table, and I was absolutely sure that they forgot to put "whatever" I couldn't find in the box. Good thing is, things get easier to find as the parts count starts to dwindle.

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I thought the same thing about the cockpit kit when it arrived in all of its untrimmed crappy styrene glory. A little bit of primer and paint did wonders. Mix you up a screwdriver Jimbo and imagine the possibilities.
I still have some work to do on mine, I would like to find a gun sight that is reasonably priced so I wouldn't have to build one from scratch, that is my biggest gripe about the T/F kit, couldn't they at least give us a gun sight?

RWHorton

Jimbo I buildt mine form scratch, I don't recomend it though as it took me forever to complete. There are some good kits out there that will fit the TF plane and you can doll them up some if you so desire.

Ron

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Been kinda of busy lately with the holiday season approaching.
Bought a used car for my daughter and I have been fixing few things and that took most of my free time away from the workshop.
I started with the belly pan and I am in the process of sheeting it.

As for the cockpit Jimbo, i also have the TF kind.
I detailed the same on for my P-51 one evening couple of years ago. Same process i think.
The color on the picture is actually a military green for the interior of the cockpit which turned out really good.
You can see more detail on a P-51 and P-47 bubble canopy as you can see it the pictures, but with the razorback I think most of the detail will be lost.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks guys, that helps a bunch.. I cut the parts out last night and taped it all togther, you get what ya pay for with this CP kit...lol

Work is in the way the rest of the week, the big push before the holidays.. I will post some pics as I go with mine, might help others in the group who are using the same one....


jimbo

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I am working on a 1/6 scale P-47 cockpit kit as we speak red and will have a gun sight available. My gun sights generally consist of 3d printed and laser cut parts. I will do both the gyro and computing gun sights found in various models of the Jug. It's a lousy picture but here is my 1/5.5 scale Mk.8 gun sight for the Spitfire as an example. If you can afford to wait a bit I hope to have them available within the first quarter of 2013.



Drop me a note if you would like to discuss it further. [email protected]

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Just my luck...

Came home from work last night and planned on doing some work on the 47 this morning, went down to the shop all excited early this morning with my coffee in hand and all my plans changed.. The water all over the basement floor quickly told me something was wrong.. I guess my water heater didn't want me working on planes today...

I guess in a sense I am lucky, there isn't a ton of water, it could be much, much worse.. But a sign is a sign, so it's work on the house day today.. With all the holiday plans, this could have been really bad.. If it burst while we are not home, man, don't even want to think about that....

Jimbo

oldtyme

Gary,

Can you give me a pointer where your hatch details are........post #'s..........thanks,
Andy

thebeave

My Feedback: (1)

I know im not Gary, but if you look on page #10 and 11.... i believe that's where he shows what he did.. On another note..... I just ordered a set of replacement wheels for the hanger9 30cc p47. They are 5 1/8" in diameter, but they appear to be thinner than the wheels i have now. Another thing is they look a little closer to scale than what i've got now. But,I really wont know till i've got them in my hands, and they weren't that much so i thought.... why not.

thebeave

My Feedback: (1)

At this point i have the wing resting in the wing jiggs. My questions are as follows: Where does the aft center wing jigg go exactly ? I know the manual says above the wing bolt plate braces... but moving it that far forward lifts the one on the dowels off the table. Im also having to place the middle wing jiggs out under the eighth or ninth ribs. Also.... how far into the curve of the middle wing jiggs am i supposed to have the leading edge? If i match the curve of the jiggs up exactly to that of forward part of the wing i get a backwards twist when i put any weight on the wing to bring it into contact with the rest of the middle wing jigg. Is this correct....? Should there be a slight upward twist to the back on the top of the wing..... im thinking there shouldn't be. The manual really gives no fine detail to go by.Does anyone still remember what they did at this point in the build? Im about to go get the ladder again im afraid.... It may be a long night.[]

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Trow them jigs away.
Find something soft enough to rest your wing on so that it does not damage the skin and keep on building.
The jigs in my opinion are there to use in case you don't have anything else available to rest your built wing on.
I rested my wing on a cradle that I made up with styrofoam.

SitNFly

My Feedback: (54)

+1 on this. I tried to use the jigs for about 30 minutes before deciding that skinny jigs built out of warped plywood were basically unusable. Got a bunch of towels to prop the wing up on and kept building. Wing turned out fine. On a completely unrelated note, I'm following another thread about the building of an AMR Decathalon. The jigs they provide are boxed-in and stiff and look like they might actually contribute to a straight wing.

thebeave

My Feedback: (1)

That's kinda what i was thinking of doing.. I have gone ahead and started sheeting the back section after receiving conformation from you guys . The only other thing that is bugging me is..... after i sheet the forward section how do i locate the wheelwell . Im trying to figure out how to cut the hole out without it being off center.

WacoNut

SitNfly,
All AMR kits come with the wing jigs and they are nice. You have to really screw up to build a warped panel. I have built 3 AMR kits and they all came out nice.
Later!!
Anthony

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

For the wheel wells start small and work your way out to the demention you need.
For the covers dementions there is a template on the print that is pretty accurate.
I would start at the retract mount, attach the retract and little by little clear away the skin until you have the desired opening.

Happy holidays!!!!

thebeave

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the help, and Merry Christmas to you all .