Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
#276
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
RB,
looks great your doing a fine job. I love the hatch and will be putting two on mine as well, mine is on hold right now, waiting for the new Robart electric gear to finally hit the market... We will have to compare weight when both our planes are all done, I am doing mine with Liquid sheeting instead of glass. It will be nice to know the difference in weight between the two...
Keep up the good work, I am subscribed........
Jimbo
RB,
looks great your doing a fine job. I love the hatch and will be putting two on mine as well, mine is on hold right now, waiting for the new Robart electric gear to finally hit the market... We will have to compare weight when both our planes are all done, I am doing mine with Liquid sheeting instead of glass. It will be nice to know the difference in weight between the two...
Keep up the good work, I am subscribed........
Jimbo
Thanks Jimbo, I subscibed to your thread too. It will be interesting to see the weight difference. I'm not to up on the liquid sheeting method. I remember there used to be a thread on it a while back, that's about it.
#277
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Cape,
I think you are looking at someoneelse's plane that joined in my threadon the doors, I haven't got to mine yet. My build is stalled right now, waiting on my Retracts from Robart so I can get back going..
ORIGINAL: CapeEynon
Hey Jim, great job on all the scale you did! Holy Crap! that is good stuff. I am too late to do the recessed hinges, but for my next build I'm really going to keep an eye on that.
I was planning on doing the inner gear doors too, and I love the way you worked that in. I guess my main question would be: why didn't you use a sequencer for that? I have found one that is designed specifically for gear door assemblies, so I was planning on using one of those.
Great job. I'd love to see a video on the workings of that assembly too. Do you have one?
Also, here's my last night's work. Didn't finish the ribbing, and I'm running into a quandry with the ribs on the razor-back. From F5 back to F9, there is a lot of twisting tension and they don't want to seem to lay flat. Should I just hold them while they dry with the medium CA? And a huge question is where should I cut them? I'll post pics on that later too, but for now, here's what I've got...
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Cape,
looks good. You are right about the perfect stage to change the tips on the stab and fin to look more scale, it's not very hard to do and you will be happy with the results...
Post 35 starts on how I did mine... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._2/key_/tm.htm
Cape,
looks good. You are right about the perfect stage to change the tips on the stab and fin to look more scale, it's not very hard to do and you will be happy with the results...
Post 35 starts on how I did mine... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._2/key_/tm.htm
I was planning on doing the inner gear doors too, and I love the way you worked that in. I guess my main question would be: why didn't you use a sequencer for that? I have found one that is designed specifically for gear door assemblies, so I was planning on using one of those.
Great job. I'd love to see a video on the workings of that assembly too. Do you have one?
Also, here's my last night's work. Didn't finish the ribbing, and I'm running into a quandry with the ribs on the razor-back. From F5 back to F9, there is a lot of twisting tension and they don't want to seem to lay flat. Should I just hold them while they dry with the medium CA? And a huge question is where should I cut them? I'll post pics on that later too, but for now, here's what I've got...
I think you are looking at someoneelse's plane that joined in my threadon the doors, I haven't got to mine yet. My build is stalled right now, waiting on my Retracts from Robart so I can get back going..
Deryk
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
ORIGINAL: redbiscuits
Do yourself a favor now for the future Deryk and add some extra stingers in there between what the kits calls for. It will take the flat spots out of the sheeting when you get to that stage.
Do yourself a favor now for the future Deryk and add some extra stingers in there between what the kits calls for. It will take the flat spots out of the sheeting when you get to that stage.
D
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
CRAP! I got so excited about finding a pilot I could tribute, I didn't even notice that... Here is another one that is his razorback...
I like the camo of the bubble. I might just do a blend.
Second, should I go for the tail and rudder mod?
I like the camo of the bubble. I might just do a blend.
Second, should I go for the tail and rudder mod?
#285
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Use Chartpack tape when your almost ready to shoot paint. Lay out your panel lines with the tape, spray on about 2 to 3 heavy coats of primer and wet sand back until you just expose the top of the tape. Peel off the tape and you have panel lines the thickness of the tape.
Go to this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10794600/tm.htm Mirce explains it very well.
Go to this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10794600/tm.htm Mirce explains it very well.
#287
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
You brave man......
I saw the yellow plastic squeegee on your workbench.
Are you using z poxy for glassing?
Do you think in your opinion that zpoxy is a stronger finish than the poly method?
I personally did both and I cannot tell the difference from one another.
Fabio
I saw the yellow plastic squeegee on your workbench.
Are you using z poxy for glassing?
Do you think in your opinion that zpoxy is a stronger finish than the poly method?
I personally did both and I cannot tell the difference from one another.
Fabio
#288
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Fuse is totally glassed and has the second coat of resin on. I've been playing with how much denatured alcohol to add and I found on the first coat when applying the glass I add the same amount as the equal parts of resin (10-10-10). On the second coat I double the amount of alcohol (10-10-20). That seems to give me the best result as far as brush-ability and filling the weave without over doing it.
We should see some primer tomorrow.
We should see some primer tomorrow.
#289
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
ORIGINAL: redbiscuits
I've been playing with how much denatured alcohol to add and I found on the first coat when applying the glass I add the same amount as the equal parts of resin (10-10-10). On the second coat I double the amount of alcohol (10-10-20).
I've been playing with how much denatured alcohol to add and I found on the first coat when applying the glass I add the same amount as the equal parts of resin (10-10-10). On the second coat I double the amount of alcohol (10-10-20).
So, using three equal parts, 10-10-10 (1-part resin, 1-part hardener, 1-part denatured alcohol) over the cloth on bare wood. Then coming back to fill the weave with 10-10-20 (1-part resin, 1-part hardener, 2-parts denatured alcohol). How dow you apply the top, or "flow" coat? Foam brush? Chip brush? do you sop-off the excess?
#290
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Yes, that's how I mixed it EJ. I'm using a cheap 2 inch bristle brush from Harbor Freight to apply the resin on both coats. On the first coat I squeegee off as much as possible to hold down the weight and also to facilitate drying. The second coat or "flow" coat, the extra alcohol allows me to really brush it out nice and thin while still filling the weave. I don't sop any of it off I just make sure there are no runs or drips. The alcohol evaporates off pretty fast so drips or runs wasn't a problem.
I did my smaller Jug with poly. I guess that method has a couple of benefits over resin. The big drawback to poly for me was since it is water based it tends to swell the wood. I had a couple of issues with that happen on the wing where the sheeting bubbled up on me. I took care of it when it dried but it literally bubbled so bad that it pulled the sheeting off the ribs. Maybe I didn't have enough glue in that spot or something. Another drawback is the amount of coats I had to apply. I think it was 4 or 5 coats on everything before the weave was hidden.
Resin is messy, I agree. But I buy nitrile gloves and cheap brushes from Harbor Freight. I re-use my brush's for up to a week at a time. I little trick is to put your brush in the freezer and the resin won't set up. So far I have used 2 one inch brushes and one two inch on this project, about $1.50 total. I also like the way resin sands over the poly. It just seems to sand better without gumming up the paper.
The picture's don't show it very well, but I can just barely see the weave a little bit in places. It's ready to start sanding and priming.
I did my smaller Jug with poly. I guess that method has a couple of benefits over resin. The big drawback to poly for me was since it is water based it tends to swell the wood. I had a couple of issues with that happen on the wing where the sheeting bubbled up on me. I took care of it when it dried but it literally bubbled so bad that it pulled the sheeting off the ribs. Maybe I didn't have enough glue in that spot or something. Another drawback is the amount of coats I had to apply. I think it was 4 or 5 coats on everything before the weave was hidden.
Resin is messy, I agree. But I buy nitrile gloves and cheap brushes from Harbor Freight. I re-use my brush's for up to a week at a time. I little trick is to put your brush in the freezer and the resin won't set up. So far I have used 2 one inch brushes and one two inch on this project, about $1.50 total. I also like the way resin sands over the poly. It just seems to sand better without gumming up the paper.
The picture's don't show it very well, but I can just barely see the weave a little bit in places. It's ready to start sanding and priming.
#291
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
GREAT information - thank you!
The pics are good. I can see just a little bit of the cloth weave in the glare.
I'm a long-time woodworker and had tried the WB stains and finishes on a couple of my projects when these products hit the market. I was totally turned-off by the way the wood reacted, so I never used WB finishing products unless it was something i just needed to get a coat of "something" on an item.
Seeing builders using WB poly and cloth, I mulled-over the idea of using water-based (WB) poly and glass cloth on a pattern ship build instead of epoxy resin. A forum friend of mine (great builder!) recommended that the bare wood get a coat of oil-based sealer. Made sense to me. He also said to let the sealer dry completely (no longer able to smell the sealer) before applying the WB poly and cloth. I applied a coat of oil-based sealer to a sheet of 1/8" balsa and let it sit for two weeks. I applied the WB poly and 3/4-ounce cloth to the sheet. The poly (un-thinned) wetted-out the cloth just fine. Though, like you, I did not like the way it sanded.
I prefer using Z-Poxy laminating resin. I'll have to try your mixing/thinning ratios.
#292
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
First coat of primer sprayed on and wet sanded back. I'm pleased with the way it came out. I only have one bubble in the glass around the stab/fin fillet. A little 3M spot glaze will take care of that. On to the 2nd,3rd,4th,5th,@th,%th,*th coats of primer............ [&o]
I have tried tests of the sanding sealer method (Deft) and was not happy with the results either. Sometimes there just isn't any shortcuts that will satisfy and replace resin and good old fashioned elbow grease. If there is I haven't found it yet.
I have tried tests of the sanding sealer method (Deft) and was not happy with the results either. Sometimes there just isn't any shortcuts that will satisfy and replace resin and good old fashioned elbow grease. If there is I haven't found it yet.
#293
My Feedback: (38)
RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Red
Thanks as usual for your great help.
To switch gear a little.
I also have like you the smaller version of the p-47 with a DLE 20 up front.
I am having some issues with the flimsy stock retracts that take a beating at our local club grass field.
I think I just messed up the JR retract servo amid a mild landing.
I was wondering what did you use for your bird.
Stock or aftermarket ?
I am looking to overhaul the whole system.
Robart offer the same landing wire but I think I need something more robust.
Any ideas?
Fabio
Thanks as usual for your great help.
To switch gear a little.
I also have like you the smaller version of the p-47 with a DLE 20 up front.
I am having some issues with the flimsy stock retracts that take a beating at our local club grass field.
I think I just messed up the JR retract servo amid a mild landing.
I was wondering what did you use for your bird.
Stock or aftermarket ?
I am looking to overhaul the whole system.
Robart offer the same landing wire but I think I need something more robust.
Any ideas?
Fabio
#294
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Fabio,
I have an OS 91Fs in my 60 size. I am using the E-Flite electric retracts, I have replaced the wire three times even though I fly it off pavement. I guess it's the price of doing business. If your interested I have some Robart air retracts and struts that I will sell cheap. The struts are oleo and have wire JB welded at the top to slide into and attach to the retract.
Make me an offer if your interested. I was going to put them in the market place when I get around to it.
I have an OS 91Fs in my 60 size. I am using the E-Flite electric retracts, I have replaced the wire three times even though I fly it off pavement. I guess it's the price of doing business. If your interested I have some Robart air retracts and struts that I will sell cheap. The struts are oleo and have wire JB welded at the top to slide into and attach to the retract.
Make me an offer if your interested. I was going to put them in the market place when I get around to it.
#295
My Feedback: (36)
RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Gary, Eddie here in OKC. I have been following your build and you just about have it to a condition where you need to ship it to me!!. I think I can finish it now!!! Just kidding.. I am going to get a Top Flite P-47 ARC soon and it is inspiring to watch your resining etc. Thanks for posting all this.
Eddie Cannon
of
OKC, OK
Eddie Cannon
of
OKC, OK
#296
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Red
I am very interested...
I used to have Robart retracts and struts for another 60 size top flite razorback p-47 I used to own years ago.
I am not sure if yours are the same, but mine had so much play side to side when they were down and locked, that the plane always wobbled side to side and looked like it was bow lagged.....
Do your retracts behave the same as mine or there they more "tight"?
I am not sure what to offer. Looking at the picture I still need to go out and buy and medium size deluxe air kit and some air lines.
I would hate to low ball you, so please let me know what you need to have in order to ship them to me to Ohio 44039.
Mean while I replaced the servo in mine and tomorrow I will take it out along with my Trojan, and see what happens.
Thanks for your help.
Fabio
I am very interested...
I used to have Robart retracts and struts for another 60 size top flite razorback p-47 I used to own years ago.
I am not sure if yours are the same, but mine had so much play side to side when they were down and locked, that the plane always wobbled side to side and looked like it was bow lagged.....
Do your retracts behave the same as mine or there they more "tight"?
I am not sure what to offer. Looking at the picture I still need to go out and buy and medium size deluxe air kit and some air lines.
I would hate to low ball you, so please let me know what you need to have in order to ship them to me to Ohio 44039.
Mean while I replaced the servo in mine and tomorrow I will take it out along with my Trojan, and see what happens.
Thanks for your help.
Fabio
#299
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Thank you, not much to report other than 3rd coat of primer is on. working my way up the sandpaper grits. Started with 320, now moving to 400, after that 600, then 800 when sanding back the panel lines.
Does anyone else have any experience with the Krylon OD Camo? I'm thinking, why spend a ton of money on paints when this might do the trick.
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K042930...ref=pd_cp_hi_0
Does anyone else have any experience with the Krylon OD Camo? I'm thinking, why spend a ton of money on paints when this might do the trick.
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K042930...ref=pd_cp_hi_0
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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
I ALMOST epoxy'd my fin on wrong last night! Fortunately, when I re-read the directions I caught the one liner about making sure the fin is flush with the stab. Could've been really bad. How do you clean epoxy off the wood if you need to?
D