Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
#1926
That would be fishing, and I don't much care to drill holes in water to fish. So I use the winter to build and do maintenance on the planes. And spend time with the family.
Ron
Ron
#1927
My Feedback: (11)
Fantastic looking Jug. Can't wait to see the Maiden on U Tube. Question: This is the 85" top flight right? I take it that the gear doors and other details are your additions and not originally in the TP plans? Can't wait to see the completely finished and detailed bird. Again
grate job. OH one other thing is the 4 blade Hartzel Prop flyable or static prop? What about the Cowl Flaps are they movable?
grate job. OH one other thing is the 4 blade Hartzel Prop flyable or static prop? What about the Cowl Flaps are they movable?
Yes it is the GSTF kit, highly modified. The 4 blade is a Bela and it will go on after break in, yes the cowl flaps are operational.
TB
#1930
My Feedback: (49)
What's the Idea behind these guns again ? Removable???
Mine have the Ram Strobes lights to simulate 50 Cal flashes. Ran out of Channels on my 9 channel Aurora 9 so hooked it to the Throttle Cut on the trainer switch
that doesn't drive the throttle above a set percentage so it works for both Guns and T cut.
<----Apache Junction AZ for the winter
Mine have the Ram Strobes lights to simulate 50 Cal flashes. Ran out of Channels on my 9 channel Aurora 9 so hooked it to the Throttle Cut on the trainer switch
that doesn't drive the throttle above a set percentage so it works for both Guns and T cut.
<----Apache Junction AZ for the winter
#1932
My Feedback: (49)
Good thing U got it maidened looks like winter is almost in Texas 55 for a hi in Phoenix area for the next week.
What are the Mods of witch U speak? Jug looks great need some paint LOL
<------ Apache Junction AZ till 12 April. better than -20
What are the Mods of witch U speak? Jug looks great need some paint LOL
<------ Apache Junction AZ till 12 April. better than -20
Last edited by HoundDog; 12-05-2013 at 05:41 AM. Reason: added <------ Apache Junction AZ till 12 April.
#1933
Tony congratulation on a successful maiden, I follow your other thread also. It will be spring before I get mine in the air. If I may ask how many channels are you using, and have you tried to program any flight modes in the radio. I have a 14sg and I want to program a takeoff, flight and landing mode. This will be a first but I hope I will get more consistent flights with the plane trim for each mode of flight. Take some load of the pilot.
Ron
Ron
#1934
My Feedback: (11)
Tony congratulation on a successful maiden, I follow your other thread also. It will be spring before I get mine in the air. If I may ask how many channels are you using, and have you tried to program any flight modes in the radio. I have a 14sg and I want to program a takeoff, flight and landing mode. This will be a first but I hope I will get more consistent flights with the plane trim for each mode of flight. Take some load of the pilot.
Ron
Ron
TB
#1935
Thanks Tony, On the using the flaps, I have the 63" version also, been flying it since 1996. Not sure how this translates to the GS version but on the smaller plane and it weighs 13lbs, full flaps on landing is great, I keep a little power on, don't want to get too slow, the plane flies great and landings are pretty easy.
I have been flying these warbirds since 1993 and like you have been fly them with the stick, just looking for a way to make my landing and takeoffs more consistent. Some times I nail it some times I don't,
Have you updated the radios software with the voice patch?
Ron
I have been flying these warbirds since 1993 and like you have been fly them with the stick, just looking for a way to make my landing and takeoffs more consistent. Some times I nail it some times I don't,
Have you updated the radios software with the voice patch?
Ron
#1936
My Feedback: (11)
Ron, I haven't flown warbirds much, this is the completion of my third season flying. I did have the 60 size but did not fly it long enough to get much from it. Yes I agree full flaps is the way to land. I chose not to use them because it threw in another thing to deal with not knowing how the plane would land and handle. On my next flight I will try full flaps. So fare she lands ok but a little hot if I cut the throttle out of the perch, with flaps I will keep throttle as I fly her in.
I did not know that Futaba had a voice patch. That would be great because I have about 5 switches I can flip while flying and to hear I hit the right one would be great, thanks.
TB
I did not know that Futaba had a voice patch. That would be great because I have about 5 switches I can flip while flying and to hear I hit the right one would be great, thanks.
TB
#1937
http://www.futaba-rc.com/systems/fut...4sg/index.html
Here is the link to the software updates for the 14sg.
Ron
Here is the link to the software updates for the 14sg.
Ron
#1941
My Feedback: (6)
I will have mine repaired come spring, no flying war birds hear in MN unless you put skiis on.\
Hear's acopla of pic's of my last flight when I clipped just the tassels of the corn
Damage was the cowl, wing hold down mouts, prop srrike on aileron, and a ding in th horizontal, belly pan, but no real structureal damage
Cheers Bob T
Hear's acopla of pic's of my last flight when I clipped just the tassels of the corn
Damage was the cowl, wing hold down mouts, prop srrike on aileron, and a ding in th horizontal, belly pan, but no real structureal damage
Cheers Bob T
#1943
My Feedback: (31)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pensacola, Fl
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TB,
Still here, and still plodding along. I have been meaning to congratulate you on your maiden and subsequent
successful flights. Looks great, on the ground and in the air.
Here in TN we had the windows open yesterday and then torrential rain today, so I'm aiming
for a Spring maiden. In the mean time.. I'm deep into vinyl rivets... I call it "Insanity riveting".
Currently I have about 17K applied and haven't started on the fuselage. It sort of morphed
as my projects tend to do, and if you want to complicate your models, just ask me and I'll
show you how...lol
In the end, I think it will be worth it.
I have a trick for those of you who want to apply vinyl rivets. Don't use the application
tape that comes with them. Use scotch tape. It picks them off the paper, but more important
it releases them onto the aircraft surface without the headache using the other tape. I use a bondo
spreader as my primary tool.
I have 30K extra 2mm rivets for sale if someone needs some. I paid Mirce $115 for them
recently. I would take a reasonable offer.
Merry Christmas everyone,
Mike
Still here, and still plodding along. I have been meaning to congratulate you on your maiden and subsequent
successful flights. Looks great, on the ground and in the air.
Here in TN we had the windows open yesterday and then torrential rain today, so I'm aiming
for a Spring maiden. In the mean time.. I'm deep into vinyl rivets... I call it "Insanity riveting".
Currently I have about 17K applied and haven't started on the fuselage. It sort of morphed
as my projects tend to do, and if you want to complicate your models, just ask me and I'll
show you how...lol
In the end, I think it will be worth it.
I have a trick for those of you who want to apply vinyl rivets. Don't use the application
tape that comes with them. Use scotch tape. It picks them off the paper, but more important
it releases them onto the aircraft surface without the headache using the other tape. I use a bondo
spreader as my primary tool.
I have 30K extra 2mm rivets for sale if someone needs some. I paid Mirce $115 for them
recently. I would take a reasonable offer.
Merry Christmas everyone,
Mike
#1944
My Feedback: (11)
Mike, I want them! Your jug is looking great and I bet she will be a beauty when she is done. What scheme are you doing? We are lucky here in Texas as we get bad weather but always some good days during the winter, no snow on the ground to deal with. After seeing your pics and talk of 30k rivets I can't wait to get all cross eyed applying rivets.
TB
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 12-22-2013 at 04:15 PM.
#1945
My Feedback: (31)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pensacola, Fl
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Tony,
I'm doing the Hun Hunter XVI. I have seen several different pics of the full size, one was a
razorback version. I am fortunate (perhaps plagued) because the one I'm doing is in the
TN Aviation Museum only 1hr away. I had the privilege of taking hundreds of detail pics of
the full size. In a way its a curse because then I try to duplicate everything. Its nearly impossible.
30K rivets seems like a lot, but it doesn't scratch the surface... and trust me, you will go cross eyed..
and begin to wonder.. What was I thinking?
email me to discuss the rivets.. [email protected]
Here's what I hope to achieve.
I'm doing the Hun Hunter XVI. I have seen several different pics of the full size, one was a
razorback version. I am fortunate (perhaps plagued) because the one I'm doing is in the
TN Aviation Museum only 1hr away. I had the privilege of taking hundreds of detail pics of
the full size. In a way its a curse because then I try to duplicate everything. Its nearly impossible.
30K rivets seems like a lot, but it doesn't scratch the surface... and trust me, you will go cross eyed..
and begin to wonder.. What was I thinking?
email me to discuss the rivets.. [email protected]
Here's what I hope to achieve.
#1948
My Feedback: (31)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 88
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Received 0 Likes
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Doom,
Good question. It's a G-62. I used a shorter carb spacer from Bennett Built, however this only brought the carb
inside the cowl. It doesn't solve the issue of how to keep from cutting a hole in the cowl for the velocity stack.
In retrospect, it would have been better to use the 90 degree carb manifold that positions the carb rearward. I think
this also solves modifying the throttle linkage. This is the idea.
Any other ideas, since I already removed the original linkage?
Good question. It's a G-62. I used a shorter carb spacer from Bennett Built, however this only brought the carb
inside the cowl. It doesn't solve the issue of how to keep from cutting a hole in the cowl for the velocity stack.
In retrospect, it would have been better to use the 90 degree carb manifold that positions the carb rearward. I think
this also solves modifying the throttle linkage. This is the idea.
Any other ideas, since I already removed the original linkage?
#1949
Mike looking great! It would be something if we could get them all together for some fight and pictures. I will be getting back on the final radio installation in January, will post pictures of the finishing then.
I pulled the retracts out of my small TF p-47 this evening, They needed a good cleaning and tighten up.
Ron
I pulled the retracts out of my small TF p-47 this evening, They needed a good cleaning and tighten up.
Ron
#1950
My Feedback: (38)
Well Mike let me tell you.
I installed mine with the velocity stack poking on the outside of the cowl.
for the life of me I could not get the engine to run reliably.
It started ok all the way to half throttle, after that it sag like it was lean.
i tried all kinds of needle settings as well as turning the velocity stack in different directions with no luck.
Still the engine would not run steady at past half throttle.
Since I have been running Zenoah engines all my hobby life, I knew that it was not a needle problem.
I removed the stack and now the mouth of the carb sits right behind the cowl opening.
the engine runs steady with no sign of sagging or hesitation.
I come to think that the vacuum that the stack created was too much for the carb to handle at full throttle.
kinda of strange since I have the same set up in my Top Flite p-51 and the G62 runs like a Swiss watch with the velocity stack on.
Anyway before you go ahead and cut the cowl I would consider the carb elbow, if the linkage to the servo does not become an issue.
Otherwise cut a hole and forget about the stack.
just my opinion.
Fabio
I installed mine with the velocity stack poking on the outside of the cowl.
for the life of me I could not get the engine to run reliably.
It started ok all the way to half throttle, after that it sag like it was lean.
i tried all kinds of needle settings as well as turning the velocity stack in different directions with no luck.
Still the engine would not run steady at past half throttle.
Since I have been running Zenoah engines all my hobby life, I knew that it was not a needle problem.
I removed the stack and now the mouth of the carb sits right behind the cowl opening.
the engine runs steady with no sign of sagging or hesitation.
I come to think that the vacuum that the stack created was too much for the carb to handle at full throttle.
kinda of strange since I have the same set up in my Top Flite p-51 and the G62 runs like a Swiss watch with the velocity stack on.
Anyway before you go ahead and cut the cowl I would consider the carb elbow, if the linkage to the servo does not become an issue.
Otherwise cut a hole and forget about the stack.
just my opinion.
Fabio