teewee

teewee hear, I am building a top flite 1/5 p 47 having two problems one is tail retracter hits on # 9 form, using a 1 3/4 wheel the other is the push rod tubing seems a little stiff .did you run in to this with your build or is it just me I am using the 160 wlc robart rearact .,that was call out any hint on this thanks.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Teewee
go back some pages and you will see some pictures of my tail wheel setup.
You will need to cut some of the balsa block out to let the wheel completely retract.
I also use the Robart tail gear but I use a 2" wheel to give my tail doors bit more ground clearance.
For the pushrods tubes you need to route them like the plan say.
Toward the tail section they will bend a bit but you need to cut them at a long bevel just to keep em some what straight.
The metal pushrods need to bent a little as they exit the tail just to facilitate the movement.

Hope this help.

Fabio

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I'm still eating tacos south of the border.

Mike, the rivets are looking fantastic, once you get them all done, you will forget the pain and hopefully your eyes will go back straight. LOL

minimax

My Feedback: (31)

Gary,
Hope you are enjoying some warm weather and good food.

Thanks for the compliment. The people I meet are the best part of this hobby.

I recently heard TB had an incident .... Bummer. I don't have anymore details.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Hello Folks......
My razorback came back from an extensive bombing run.
Result of that she got really dirty.......Kidding aside, winters are long here in Ohio.
On the bench right now I am building a Top Flite GS P-51 and in the process of priming it for panel lines and raised rivets this time.
However got bored with the process last week and I decided to play around with the P-47 and add some weathering details.
Last thing missing after all this it is to address the landing gear covers.
It is so shallow that it will take some serious motivation to tackle that.
Anyhow some pics to show the final product. I might do the same with the P-51 once finished.

Fabio

kwblake

Doomking.... Thats a dirty bird. Ya just gotta love razorbacks.........

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Nice work Fabio! I can't work up the courage to do that to mine yet.

RWHorton

Ever heard of soap and water, I wash my boat when I return from a fishing trip. I hope you make the pilot wipe his feet before he climbs in. Really that is a beautiful plane.

Ron

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Wow, what an awesome build thread! It took me a week, but I went through all 79 pages. I just received my GS p47 from Tower and I am getting ready for the build. This is my first kit, so I am feeling a little overwhelmed at this point.

I plan on using the robart electric mains with a fixed tail wheel. For a power plant I am planning on using a DA 60.

If there is anyone else starting this build now it would be great to share experiences as we go along use ing some of the great building tips and processes used here.

thanks, Bob

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Welcome Bob, good luck with your build. Post some pics as you progress, I know we all like watching another one come together.

Gary

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Welcome Bob as well.
you might want to reconsider about the tail wheel.
I find it very unattractive a warbird with a tail wheel sticking out.
for an extra $100 you will glad you did later on.
Maybe choose a different power plant, unless you have a DA 60 laying around, and with the savings you could scale your bird little better.
Good luck and have fun, it is easy and you have good support here on RCU.

Fabio

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Thanks for the the warm welcome Gary and Fabio.!

Fabio, you make a good point regarding the tail wheel. I just balked at the $190 price tag. But, maybe if I go with the DLE55 RA I can splurge for the electric tail wheel. I am going to think about it some more.

I started building the stab/elevator this afternoon and already have a question. It looks in the picture like the Stab TE and Elevator LE are about 1/4" apart, but on the plan they look almost butted up to each other. Can you tell me what is the correct position for the Elev LE?
Thanks,
Bob

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

There is open space when you frame, that is the LE you will glue to the elevator once you seporate it from the stab. So the TE of the stab and the sub LE of the elevator is open when you frame.

TB

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

TB,
Thanks for the help. I now understand what to do.

I have a quick quick glue question too. I was going to use thin CA on the ribs, etc and anywhere where sanding is not required. I will then go back and touch up any gaps with gorilla wood glue. Does that sound like a good plan?

Sorry for the newbie questions. I will try to keep them to a minimum.

Bob

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Just hit the joints with thin CA and you can go back over with medium CA if you want. Gorilla glue would be a waist of time IMHO. Yellow glue doesn't sand any easyer then CA

Feel free to post pics here,, Gary won't mind, it helps us to know what you are doing and how we can help.



TB

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Did you consider Robart traditional air retract system?
I think they are lot more reasonable than the electric and very dependable.
for the glue I would just follow to what Tony has to say.
He's a master builder and he's opinion goes a long way.

Fabio

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Bob, the DLE55R would be a great choice, and if you still go with the electric mains you can go with a basic mechanical tail wheel retract using a push rod and servo, that would be a lot better then not one at all and much cheaper then the $190 for the electric.

TB

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Fabio,

Yes, I did consider the air system,but the electric system was not that much more when you add up all of the accessories that you need with the air system, plus I thought installation would be easier with electric.
The more I think about it, I am going to splurge for the elec. tail wheel.


Bob

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Bob, have you researched the Robart electrics? My buddy put them in his TF 190 and it belly landed on the maiden, and he has had nothing but trouble with them, the controller was bad, the retract mains were bad. Air is very reliable when done right and not much more to it but a tank and valve kit to complete the system. Just my 2c.

TB

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Wow thanks TB! I have not even opened the box yet so I will return them and go with air.

I have a stab building question. In step 11 it says to sand bevel the LE of the ribs to match the aft sweeping angle of the LE. I am not sure what to do here. This step is before gluing on the stab LE's.

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Duh, I figured out step 11. Sometimes you just have to step away from the build for a bit.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Tiger

Just my thoghts plan every thing at least 4 steps ahead, and make notes as it helps you not have to back up,

Cheers Bob T

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Thanks Bob, I just put a pad and pen on my building table. The fear of making a mistake is intense!

bob

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Don't fear the mistakes, they will happen, fear is a builders /pilots worst enemy. Just catch them before it creates a lot of work you did not need to do. My cerise is I can fix any mistake I make


TB

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

That is exactly right catch them early, fix and move on

Cheers Bob T