Lins

I just purchased a Bud Nosen 1/4 Scale cub kit, and I'm debating what to ultimately cover it with once it is completed. I'm thinking some kind of fabric covering would be most appropriate for a cub. I have never tried any kind of fabric, nor do I know what kinds are out there. What are peoples' opinion of the 21st century fabric? Thanks in advance.

GaryHarris

I just started using Solartex and wont be looking back.

http://shop.balsausa.com/category_s/119.htm

TCraft Lover

My Feedback: (1)

If you want to go with pre colored material then Solartex or 21st century fabric are bothgood. If you would like the experience of sealing and painting your covering then Sig Koverall is very good.

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

I pay for keywords on this site but they don't seem to be working. Try Stits Lite by F&M Enterprises http://www.stits.com It's light weight, it stays tight and it doesn't get anymore scale than this.

Rodney

Solar tex works well and is super easy to apply and will go around compound curves very well. It is available from BalsaUSA. Note: Colortex and Worldtex are the same material as Solartex if they are easier to obtain. These are all fuelproof and do not need paint but: since they are a weaved fabric, the weave can and will collect dirt easily. Most users overcoat with a clear coat to make cleanup easier. Most any fuel proof paint will work, my preference is KlassKote for a permanent and durable finish.

Lins

Thanks, I've been looking at Solartex as well. How much clear cote are guys usually putting on?

davidgeorge212

Does anyone know if Nelson Hobby Lite Fabric (the unpaited iron on fabric that came on a roll) is still available. Seems like I bought some a couple years ago and I cant find it anymore.

dignlivn

I used 21 st century fabric on an Astro Hog i built 3 years ago. Still looks
great and easy to apply (IMO). I'll never use money kote again.

Bob

rafeeki

My Feedback: (11)

I have the same plane. Covered it with Century 21 Coverite, looks good. Not sure if I can post pics but will try.

Wagon1

I used 21st Centry Fabric on a Kadet. Very easy to put on. For me the best part was the easy application of paint. I just used Kryon spray. Easy on, and so far it has held up well to nitro.

sensei

Agreed, Stits Lite is the only way to go.

Bob

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Solartex

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

Stits!

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Of the above mentioned covering brands.. Is there any that are better for taking paint.. ? Such as graphics/striping.... I'm liking the above planes.. that Kadet is very nice!.. and that Giant is incredible...I've seen that before, had a few pics as it was being built... actually have the flying vid on my YouTube... are you the original owner/builder? That thing is nuts!!

I've wondered about iron-on fabrics myself... I'm an iron-on film nut..and really like the films and what can be done.. I've also got a Cub now in my building line-up.. and an wondering about fabrics..

Also.... I'd like floats on my Cub.... how does each brand stack up when used on water?.. float-flying.. ?

sensei

Yes, I am the designer and builder of the Staudacher. Truth is; when I am building a hyper light R/C airplane, then I am going to use Monokote or Ultracoat, pure and simple, keep it light...

On all the scale and full scale aircraft I have built and covered, Stits covering system has been the final word... Trying to compare the covering systems listed in this thread and distributed for model use only to Stits is like comparing an old Ford Pinto to a 2011 Audi SR8 V-10.. It's all just a joke in comparison. LOL


Bob

LargeScale88

Sig Koverall is another option. A little more work, but thats how they did it on the full scale cub.


Jason

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Solartex is a fabric and has a texture. For laying on stripes or graphics I mask then use an air brush or the paint tends to bleed under the mask a bit.

oldtyme

Hey.............[>:]....................I loved my 1973 Ford Pinto!!!!! Especially after I put a 302 V8 in it.............

sensei

I loved my Pinto too, I also loved my V8 Vega wagon, but that was old school and the new toys are just amazing today, don't you think ...


Bob

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Did either of the Pintos have inside door handles??

cfircav8r

My Feedback: (1)

That all depends on whether you tried to use them or not.

sensei

Who needs stinking door handles anyway, that is what solenoids are for silly rabbits...

Bob

Azcat59

This'll date me, but you guys might like to consider old-fashioned silk and dope! Once on, it never comes loose, and can't get much more authentic on a full scale look-a-like. Takes a lot of painting though to fill the weave, and it can be punctured if you drop something like a screwdriver onto it.

You can buy it from Thai Silks at www.thaisilks.com. I like the "Paj" 5mm, 45" wide, latest price I have is $4.70 per yard. And "5mm" does not refer to millimeters, but it is a measurement of silk thread size.

Apply wet with nitrate dope, fill the weave to the extent necessary with nitrate, then paint it with whatever kind of paint you choose.

Clair

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

back in the 50s and 60s silk and dope were was used a bunch and it really does a good job. It would look good on a Cub but it is a lot moere work and skill then most people have these days. I'm not sure if I could still cover a plane with silk and dope. I have only done a couple and that would have been about 1960. The TEX coverings are just so easy to use and work with not to mention the weight. That comes from someone that is almost never giving weight a lot of thought.
Silk and dope is another option though. I can still hear my mother giving me a lot of static about the smell of the dope. Guess it's something you shouldn't be doing in your bedroom but back then my bedroom was my shop.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

I tried 21st Century Fabric on my current project (Sig 1/5 Cub), and ended up tearing it all off and using Koverall and dope. The difference is unblievable, and I will never use the 21st Century stuff again. It is not very flexible, is VERY expensive, and the adhesive doesn't seem to work all that well either- not to mention the issue of paint compatibility.

With the Koverall and dope, once you have your surface prepped, you literally paint the fabric on. It's so easy! My seams completely disappeared, and the dreaded fillet between the vertical and horizontal stabilizers was a snap to get right. Also, if you use nitrate dope to stick everything down, you have a really wide range of choices when it comes to finish painting.

Finished product is totally worth the (small) extra effort.