building board
09-13-2011, 05:33 PM
#26
RE: building board
ORIGINAL: bogbeagle
I just made a new ''building-board'' as an experiment and have built 4 wing panels on it, so far. It works great and cost me about £3; for the chipboard. I already had the required blind nuts and hex-head screws.
The board comprises a hollow box-section which is made from 18mm chipboard off-cuts. The DIY store cut the board into four parallel strips, using its large/accurate vertical saw.
I screwed the sections together, such that they formed a rigid box which is 5 feet long, by about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide. Two parallel rows of 6 mm blind nuts are let into the upper surface of the building board. These accept 6 mm hex-head bolts which are used to clamp the wing structure to the board. I've made a number of wooden ''clamping fingers'', rather like the old-fashioned systems that were used to clamp work to the tables of milling machines.
The upper surface of the board overhangs the central stiffeners by a couple of inches. This overhang accepts G-clamps, if they should be required.
Obviously, this board won't accept pins ... but the clamping system has completely obviated the need for pins. Well, that's been my experience so far.
The system will enable me to build accurate fuselages, too. I'm quite pleased with it.
I just made a new ''building-board'' as an experiment and have built 4 wing panels on it, so far. It works great and cost me about £3; for the chipboard. I already had the required blind nuts and hex-head screws.
The board comprises a hollow box-section which is made from 18mm chipboard off-cuts. The DIY store cut the board into four parallel strips, using its large/accurate vertical saw.
I screwed the sections together, such that they formed a rigid box which is 5 feet long, by about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide. Two parallel rows of 6 mm blind nuts are let into the upper surface of the building board. These accept 6 mm hex-head bolts which are used to clamp the wing structure to the board. I've made a number of wooden ''clamping fingers'', rather like the old-fashioned systems that were used to clamp work to the tables of milling machines.
The upper surface of the board overhangs the central stiffeners by a couple of inches. This overhang accepts G-clamps, if they should be required.
Obviously, this board won't accept pins ... but the clamping system has completely obviated the need for pins. Well, that's been my experience so far.
The system will enable me to build accurate fuselages, too. I'm quite pleased with it.
This sounds very interesting, but......
09-14-2011, 01:20 AM
#27
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RE: building board
First photo shows my clamping sytem being used to ensure the security of a chocolate bar ... practically the only way I can guarantee the safety of my chocolate stash in this household.
Second photo shows the clamping system being used to hold down a wing panel. The panel is positioned so as to project beyond the edge of the building board; this allows better access during the fiddly business of LE sheeting.
Second photo shows the clamping system being used to hold down a wing panel. The panel is positioned so as to project beyond the edge of the building board; this allows better access during the fiddly business of LE sheeting.
09-14-2011, 03:29 AM
#28
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RE: building board
Ibuilt a 2x4 frame, with the top similar tojs3 did,with 5 legs, one center leg in the back (I sit at my bench, in a comfortable chair on wheels), and then angel braced it. I put a door on top of it using carpet tap to anchor it down, and then Iput a sheet of beaver board on top of that, using 2"maskingtape around the edges to hold that on.(Same board asfred985) uses. I then covered it with a thick paper. It's flat, strong, clean, and smooth. Ibolt my Adjust-o-jig to it, when I need to use it. I have been using it for 25+ years, and it's still flat, strong, and clean! I change the paper when it gets to be a mess, every few years. 3 or 4 times now in 25+ years. I have bult a LOT of planes on it. If I get a lump of epxoy or something else on it, I just cut it off, or if I cut through the paper, I just use masking tape for a band aid. I use a small & a large cuttting matt for all my cutting, blades always last longer with one.
I also put short carpet undermy bench. Things don't bounce or roll away, like on a hard floor. Plus it's easier on my feet & back.
Pat
I also put short carpet undermy bench. Things don't bounce or roll away, like on a hard floor. Plus it's easier on my feet & back.
Pat
09-14-2011, 06:53 AM
#29
RE: building board
ORIGINAL: fred985
check out your local lumber yard for 4 by 8 sheets of what we used to call beaver board. it is like ceiling tile but 1 inch thick. pinsd go right in and i have used this for years with no problemsd. in the north east,,curtis lumber has it.
check out your local lumber yard for 4 by 8 sheets of what we used to call beaver board. it is like ceiling tile but 1 inch thick. pinsd go right in and i have used this for years with no problemsd. in the north east,,curtis lumber has it.
09-14-2011, 07:01 AM
#30
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RE: building board
I have used all kinds of things, but I just built a 36X72 metal magnetic board.
It is the best board I ever built on. Unlimited possiblities - just build a fixture for whatever you need, easy to use - you can put a magnet or magnetic fixture anywhere on the board, and able to do things you can't do on a soft board and pins, plenty of clamping force, which is adjustable with whatever size mag you are using. My builds have been straighter,and cleaner than ever before. You can evenmock-up significant parts of a structure without a drop of glue.
It is the best board I ever built on. Unlimited possiblities - just build a fixture for whatever you need, easy to use - you can put a magnet or magnetic fixture anywhere on the board, and able to do things you can't do on a soft board and pins, plenty of clamping force, which is adjustable with whatever size mag you are using. My builds have been straighter,and cleaner than ever before. You can evenmock-up significant parts of a structure without a drop of glue.
09-14-2011, 07:06 AM
#31
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RE: building board
ORIGINAL: raptureboy
Are you refering to the gray board called Homasote? It's used by train set builders because it is dense and resists warping. Comes in 4x8 sheets at the home centers or lumber yard. I've used it for bulletin boards for years in the office, paint it white and it's easy to find anything laying on it.
ORIGINAL: fred985
check out your local lumber yard for 4 by 8 sheets of what we used to call beaver board. it is like ceiling tile but 1 inch thick. pinsd go right in and i have used this for years with no problemsd. in the north east,,curtis lumber has it.
check out your local lumber yard for 4 by 8 sheets of what we used to call beaver board. it is like ceiling tile but 1 inch thick. pinsd go right in and i have used this for years with no problemsd. in the north east,,curtis lumber has it.
09-14-2011, 07:09 AM
#32
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RE: building board
Magnetic building board, made from a heavy fireproof door ($35.00 at Habitat for Humanity Restore store) topped with 16ga carbon steel. Magnets, jigs and fixtures from airfield models. Building with magnets is the only way to go..
09-14-2011, 11:14 AM
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RE: building board
ORIGINAL: makmov
Could not agree more.
ORIGINAL: Radical Departure
Building with magnets is the only way to go..
Building with magnets is the only way to go..
09-14-2011, 11:52 AM
#36
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RE: building board
Not really, thanks btw, I drew up some rough basic ideas and just started building, and loosely based it off some bench plans Ifound on the Internet. Iwanted things at justthe righthight, a bench tootall or too short sucks. It does make a difference. My machineshop bench that my Lathe, mill and drill press are on is higher, which is perfect for those operations.I'd build itto your specifications, and the second shelf was highted just enough for my scroll saw and a mid-section three drawer tool box on the other side.
Icould probably dig up what Ihad on it, and you are more than welcome to have. Let me see if Ican still find that stuff.
it is mosly just 2X4, with the thickest subfloor top 5/8 or 3/4 I don't remember, with a galvinzed steel top, and all screwed together.
I still had to shim it lenth-wise and reshim it agian before it became stable with a runout of 1-2mm runout across entire72 inches. Ididn't have too much trouble with it width-wise or diagonally.
Icould probably dig up what Ihad on it, and you are more than welcome to have. Let me see if Ican still find that stuff.
it is mosly just 2X4, with the thickest subfloor top 5/8 or 3/4 I don't remember, with a galvinzed steel top, and all screwed together.
I still had to shim it lenth-wise and reshim it agian before it became stable with a runout of 1-2mm runout across entire72 inches. Ididn't have too much trouble with it width-wise or diagonally.
09-14-2011, 04:34 PM
#37
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RE: building board
I use 2" blue foam insulation...light, rigid, takes pins gracefully, easily modified as required. When it gets too ragged, use it for special aircraft support forms for repair work
09-14-2011, 06:12 PM
#38
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RE: building board
I use a 4 x 8 drafting table I acquired several years ago, I used a laser lever to true the entire top up first. I then placed a piece of 4 x 8 x 3/4" MDF on top of that and again double checked the top with the laser level. This made my building board perfectly level all the way around.
I then added a sheet of Gal sheet metal 2' x 8', basically one half the table top and use magnets to hold things together. I attached the the sheet metal to the MD so it would not move or lift when pulling the magnets off the table.
I use the other half of the table to lay out parts, true edges etc. The use of magnets holds everything in place securely to the table for gluing. I don't ever see going back to pins.
It takes some time to setup however when done, you can build straight, true structures.
Jeff
I then added a sheet of Gal sheet metal 2' x 8', basically one half the table top and use magnets to hold things together. I attached the the sheet metal to the MD so it would not move or lift when pulling the magnets off the table.
I use the other half of the table to lay out parts, true edges etc. The use of magnets holds everything in place securely to the table for gluing. I don't ever see going back to pins.
It takes some time to setup however when done, you can build straight, true structures.
Jeff
09-15-2011, 12:26 PM
#42
RE: building board
ORIGINAL: bogbeagle
First photo shows my clamping sytem being used to ensure the security of a chocolate bar ... practically the only way I can guarantee the safety of my chocolate stash in this household.
Second photo shows the clamping system being used to hold down a wing panel. The panel is positioned so as to project beyond the edge of the building board; this allows better access during the fiddly business of LE sheeting.
First photo shows my clamping sytem being used to ensure the security of a chocolate bar ... practically the only way I can guarantee the safety of my chocolate stash in this household.
Second photo shows the clamping system being used to hold down a wing panel. The panel is positioned so as to project beyond the edge of the building board; this allows better access during the fiddly business of LE sheeting.
09-15-2011, 08:20 PM
#43
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RE: building board
I bought the crafsman stainless steel table tops from sears and use magnets on them. I checked in the store on one of their demos with a magnet to make sure a magnet would stick to it since some stainless won't allow a magnet to do so. They are a bit pricey but I figured it would be a very good investment over time considering a 40 size sport model can tie up 300 bucks or more very easily. I also like the idea of them not rusting as well plus you can buy the drawer modules to go in the work bench for more storage as well. Everyone should atleast consider the craftman garage system In my opinion due to the options it offers. I really like my setup even though I sunk a lot of money into it but I think that it'll payoff in the long run. Obviously the stainless workbenches are in the background, this is the best pic I had of them. The bench the plane is sitting on is something I built myself to have an assembly/ covering area for bigger projects.
09-16-2011, 07:35 AM
#44
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RE: building board
Hey All,
I've been use the magnetic building board for some years now and have been maling imporments from others I;ve seem on web too..
Mine is not all that fancy, just a 20" X 50" piece of plywood I have left over from another project. Plus a sheet if 11 gadge steel glued to that.. I can just put it up on my beach and build on it then It goes back agains the wall..
Here are a few pics showning an old plan for my bud noslen citabria I am building from the plans.
I've been use the magnetic building board for some years now and have been maling imporments from others I;ve seem on web too..
Mine is not all that fancy, just a 20" X 50" piece of plywood I have left over from another project. Plus a sheet if 11 gadge steel glued to that.. I can just put it up on my beach and build on it then It goes back agains the wall..
Here are a few pics showning an old plan for my bud noslen citabria I am building from the plans.
09-18-2011, 07:09 PM
#45
RE: building board
All this talk of a new bench has inspired me to build something. I have nothing at the moment so anything is and improvement I have a 20% Zlin I want to build and looking at the plans I discovered they are quite wide at 37 inches. Sooo, it looks like a 40 inch wide top at least and 8 feet long to make that part simple. I'll post some pictures as i progress.
Thanks for the inspiration!! Or it may be perspiration in the end
Ken
I have a 20% Zlin I want to build and looking at the plans I discovered they are quite wide at 37 inches. Sooo, it looks like a 40 inch wide top at least and 8 feet long to make that part simple. I'll post some pictures as i progress.Thanks for the inspiration!! Or it may be perspiration in the end
Ken
09-19-2011, 08:22 AM
#47
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RE: building board
I too have a magnetic board. Was scared to get rid of my old hollow core door and ceiling tiles, but haven't looked back. One good thing about the steel top is that glue spills, paint spills or any spills can just get scraped off. 36 X 80 solid door with 1/8 steel top.
John
John
09-19-2011, 09:51 AM
#48
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RE: building board
Those with Magnetic boards, where do you source your magnets?
Are there any secific plans or suggestions available for making clamping devices?
I'm a 55 yr old new to building and am staring with a 2" Pink foam base with T-pins I would like to consider A metal base for the build #2 ( if there is a build #2 )
Are there any secific plans or suggestions available for making clamping devices?
I'm a 55 yr old new to building and am staring with a 2" Pink foam base with T-pins I would like to consider A metal base for the build #2 ( if there is a build #2
)
09-19-2011, 01:25 PM
#49
RE: building board
Everthing you need to know about building with magnets http://www.airfieldmodels.com/ there is a link for magnets and it's the cheapest I found, and just what you need.
Good luck
Good luck
09-20-2011, 02:17 AM
#50
RE: building board
That airfield models is an excellent site and great resource. I was inspired to create similar magnetic hold-downs for my board, but I think mine are easier to make and use.