Clay Walters

I now have a mess. My Great Planes plan protector let me down for the first time. Using some Gorilla brand CA I glued eight ribs to bottom spars last night and this morning each joint is firmly adhered to the Great Planes plan protector! Never had this happen and suspect it must be the chemistry of the Gorilla CA. Now this probably means it glues things together really well but think I'll use waxed paper whenever I use this adhesive. So far light picking and sanding is removing some of it but the collateral damage isn't welcome and I just thought folks might wish to know about this. Hopefully this is just one bad combination because I like the clarity of the Great Planes plan protector compared with waxed paper.

Clay

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Sorry to hear about your problems with the plans protectors from Great Planes. I've never used that product, but I know what it's like when glue gets through and makes a mess of your plans and anything underneath. I've used wax paper when I started building but moved on to a couple of other things I like better and have always worked for me. I started off with getting clear vinyl plastic used drop clothes when painting. You can get it in the painting section of any home improvement store or at Wal-mart. A single roll will last a LONG time and so far nothing I have used has stuck to it. I also like to save the backing from Monokote and use it too. It's crystal clear and nothing I've found has stuck to it. When I am covering big sections of a plane with Monokote I will save the backing off of it for future projects. This only works with Monokote as it has the plastic backing, Ultracote has a paper backing and doesn't work.

SeamusG

Thanks for the heads up!

Uh Ken, don't think that that's enough to convince me to stop using Ultracote.

Warbird Joe

I use wax paper. It works awesome. Everything pulls right off. No problems with CA, Wood Glue or Epoxy. It's not as clear as the backing to Monokote but it is clear enough to see everything.

Joe

SeamusG

Em, awesome? Mostly, maybe. However ... I'm using wax paper on a current project. During the fuse construction I wetted down some side panels to shape them to the fuse while the fuse was pinned to the table. The wax paper turned into something more akin to wet toilet paper. Using thin CA and medium CA both have seeped thru some wood seams. Pretty much permanently affixed the wax paper to the bottom of the fuse. Alittle 80 / 150 grit paper took care of it. I've recovered my table with wax paper 3 times today and I'm not done screwin' stuff up so maybe a 4th is 4th coming ...

KitBuilder

The wax paper today has far less was than it did form years ago which is why you get more sticking to it. If I coulid find a brand that has more wax to it I'd use it but havent found anything yet. I found parchment paper works better than wax but still has a small amount of sticking that is easily detached by sliding a something thin between the paper and the wood.
Mike

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I started using Parchment paper found right next to the wax paper. My kingdom for some of the type of wax paper we had before Micro Wave Ovens came along. I think I can see through the wax paper better then the parchment but nothing has stuck to the parchment yet. Just don't pit a pin next to the spot your are gluing.

jessiej

I had made the same observation, but thought I was just getting old.

jess

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Note to all: Stop using so much glue!

LesUyeda

"I had made the same observation, but thought I was just getting old. "

Nah!!! It just ain't what it used to was:-((((((((((((((((((((((((((

Les

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

Have to agree with MinnFlye and RCKen.

Stop with the over application of glue!!

I use a 2 mil drop cloth from Lowes and as with MinnFlyer, SO FAR nothing sticks to it. Well, with the possible exception of blood
when the X-acto slips!!

Dan

SeamusG

Damn dude - I use one of those extruded tubes on my CAbottles and even then - 1 drop goes a long way. If the seam isn't super tight CA is gonna flow thru the gap - especially when the seam is pinned flat on the building board.

JohnShe

My experience with GP plan protector is the same as the first post.  Only I was using Great Planes brand CA.  The protector only works with non CA glues like Tite-bond or good old Elmer's wood glue.

Rodney

Give that waxed paper a close look, you will see that one side has much more wax on it than the other. Keep the heavier waxed side up!

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

2nd what Rodney said. Buy name brand wax paper. I use Cut Rite.
John

jessiej

That's what I use. Works as well as the others.[]

jess

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Those ARF assemblers don't have that problem.
Hey I'm just sayin'

SeamusG

Save a "wax paper" tree - switch to ARFs ...

Augie11

There is no other brand : )

Tarasdad

Check the food service grade products available at warehouse stores, restaurant supply houses and some specialty shops. It tends to be higher quality tha the stuff sold in local grocers and retailers. Speaking of which I really need to check it out next time I'm at Sam's Club. Going to be using mostly epoxy and aliphatic resin for my next build but still want to keep the plans as pristine as possible.

airbusdrvr

I always have a couple of copies of the plans made and use them for construction. One set to cut into more manageable pieces to put on the building board and the other set for reference during the build. The original plans stay folded and out of the way for the entire build.

fix-n-fly

My Feedback: (1)

I've used wax paper before. I don't recall the brand, but it was difficult to see through and the glue found its way through the the holes my straight pins were making to hold it to the ceiling tiles and what a mess. I generally use glad wrap or some clear plastic food wrap and it works okay.

As to those who say don't use so much glue - I am self taught and that is the only way I know to build.

piper28

I'm trying parchment paper this time. Not quite as clear as I'd like, but it looks encouraging for how well glue comes off it. I've used the plans protector stuff before and melted it to the plane also.

These days the copy places are being more of a pain when trying to copy plans, plus it's getting pretty pricey. It's annoying, because I definitely prefer a copy I can trim down to the size I want.

acdii

I started my first build in 30+ years and used the plan protector, and while it made it very nice to layout the parts, the CA does stick to it pretty good. but I did figure out how to remove the part without ripping the plastic after a while.  Now if I didn't need to use pins, then this stuff will be even better protection. 

raptureboy

Build over glass. That's my next move, you just slide a razor blade under the part and pop it off. You don't need pins to hold the spar down just spot glue it to the glass. But yeh, don't use so much glue. [X(]I use the same glue and I'm not sticking anything to the wax paper.