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***CUB BROTHERHOOD***

Old 03-18-2014, 11:49 AM
  #1901  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
NICE CUB! Looks like a keeper rc74!

Speaking of twins here is one the British made in late September of 1940.



Looks more like mating season.
Old 03-18-2014, 12:29 PM
  #1902  
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Actually it was a midair collision on a training mission in New South Wales 29 Sept 1940. The two planes were hopelessly jammed together that they had to pancake in together to land. They do appear to be trying to make little airplanes!
Old 03-18-2014, 04:56 PM
  #1903  
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Crazystick that is a very cool Papoose Cub! Bravo!
Old 03-18-2014, 05:18 PM
  #1904  
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I think those two British twins are actually "Siamese twins"!
Old 03-19-2014, 04:31 AM
  #1905  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
NICE CUB! Looks like a keeper rc74!

Speaking of twins here is one the British made in late September of 1940.

They actually repaired both of them http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1940_Br...-air_collision
Old 03-19-2014, 05:00 AM
  #1906  
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Did you find out if there were any casualties in the flight crews? I didn't see that in the report I read.
Old 03-19-2014, 05:09 AM
  #1907  
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I think I am getting the hang of covering with fabric now. Started on the tail last night using Stix-it and Koverall, then one coat of clear dope and it looks good.
Question on the tail fairing though, the plans and manual dont clarify the shape very well. What does the fin fairing look like? Does it taper back or does it have a curve towards the tail?
Old 03-19-2014, 09:53 AM
  #1908  
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I just came across this thread and figured I should join. Up here in the frozen north we have lots of building time and I have just finished my 1/4 scale Sig Cub up to the paint part. I'm waiting for it to warm up so I can do a spray job in the garage. It's a full span Cub which I'm going to rig for glider air tow. Power is going to be an inverted Saito 180. I'm really happy with the plane which I picked up as a partially completed project at a local auction. It required some structural construction and covering which is completed in Solartex. There's lots of good information in this thread.
I'll post some pictures when I can get it outside.
Peter
Old 03-19-2014, 10:09 AM
  #1909  
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Originally Posted by acdii
I think I am getting the hang of covering with fabric now. Started on the tail last night using Stix-it and Koverall, then one coat of clear dope and it looks good.
Question on the tail fairing though, the plans and manual dont clarify the shape very well. What does the fin fairing look like? Does it taper back or does it have a curve towards the tail?
If I understand you correctly, the way I see it, the covering is attached to the vertical fin on all the structure down to lower stringer on the fin... then the covering is attached to the fuselage edges and to the center spine that runs down the top / back of the fuselage up to the vertical fin... then when the covering is shrunk, it forms the faring.

I don't have any images of mine since I stripped the covering off, but I originally did the entire fuselage in 4 pieces... first I covered the bottom of the fuse, and then covered each side including the vertical fin and half the top /back section of the fuselage, and finally a small piece of covering on top of the nose.


Here's an image of the real cub tail, maybe it will help clarify it.

Last edited by John_M_; 03-19-2014 at 10:12 AM.
Old 03-19-2014, 11:41 AM
  #1910  
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Originally Posted by John_M_
If I understand you correctly, the way I see it, the covering is attached to the vertical fin on all the structure down to lower stringer on the fin... then the covering is attached to the fuselage edges and to the center spine that runs down the top / back of the fuselage up to the vertical fin... then when the covering is shrunk, it forms the faring.

I don't have any images of mine since I stripped the covering off, but I originally did the entire fuselage in 4 pieces... first I covered the bottom of the fuse, and then covered each side including the vertical fin and half the top /back section of the fuselage, and finally a small piece of covering on top of the nose.


Here's an image of the real cub tail, maybe it will help clarify it.

The SIG kit has a piece of balsa that glues in from the last former to the rear of the fin, but not enough detail or description to get it right. The picture helps a lot. It tapers towards the tail and is flush, and not curved like the plans suggest. Now I see exactly how it needs to be done.
Thanks
Old 03-19-2014, 01:21 PM
  #1911  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Did you find out if there were any casualties in the flight crews? I didn't see that in the report I read.
If you look in the top right is shows just one non fatal injury.


Acdii, I'm using coverall for the first time, it's time consuming but I like the finished product, very strong!
My old pilot ok kit has a balsa block which needs to be sanded to shape, I don't think I got the right shape, as I got sick of sanding.
Old 03-19-2014, 02:18 PM
  #1912  
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Originally Posted by acdii
The SIG kit has a piece of balsa that glues in from the last former to the rear of the fin, but not enough detail or description to get it right. The picture helps a lot. It tapers towards the tail and is flush, and not curved like the plans suggest. Now I see exactly how it needs to be done. Thanks
Oh, those pieces (right & left) just continues at the same angle as the last former, and tapers back to nothing, or as thin as you can get it with out sanding through it.

In other words, those filler pieces just continue at the same angle as the last former; and then follow the same angle as the upper out side corners... so when you put a straight edge on either the fuse side or upper outer corner, the lines continue through the filler pieces.



John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 03-19-2014 at 02:40 PM.
Old 03-19-2014, 03:48 PM
  #1913  
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Originally Posted by John_M_
Oh, those pieces (right & left) just continues at the same angle as the last former, and tapers back to nothing, or as thin as you can get it with out sanding through it.

In other words, those filler pieces just continue at the same angle as the last former; and then follow the same angle as the upper out side corners... so when you put a straight edge on either the fuse side or upper outer corner, the lines continue through the filler pieces.



John M,

Thanks, that fits with what I was thinking they would be. Next week I will have that part done, and hopefully get some of the fuse covered.
Old 03-19-2014, 06:21 PM
  #1914  
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:23 PM
  #1915  
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Guys I know i have seen alot of talk on what to replace the o rings on the robart gear with. After some thought I will stay with O rings from my local fastenall store. about 2.50 for 15 of them. Had thought of a bungey cord, but if it brakes, you have nothing. If one o ring brakes you are still good. unless you slam it in, dont think you will brake all 4 o rings at one time. I do replace mine every year.
Old 03-19-2014, 06:39 PM
  #1916  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Thanks, that fits with what I was thinking they would be. Next week I will have that part done, and hopefully get some of the fuse covered.
Nice! look forward to seeing it finished.

Believe it or not, I just realized you're building the 1/5 sig cub, lol ... I have their 1/4 scale cub which had a slightly different approach regarding those filler pieces... originally it used a couple pieces of 1/8 balsa sheeting to fill in after the last former along side the base of the vertical fin... I didn't think much of that idea so I replaced it with a balsa block and just sanded it to shape (same as you)... you end up sanding a lot of it away to get the shape, so I really don't think the added weight is an issue, and being solid balsa there's no chance of any warpage occurring... when I start to recover it, I'm going to try to cover the top side of the fuse and both sides of the vehicle fin with one piece of covering... that way there won't be a seam down the middle of the spine.


John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 03-19-2014 at 06:44 PM.
Old 03-19-2014, 07:14 PM
  #1917  
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Originally Posted by Cub Man
Guys I know i have seen alot of talk on what to replace the o rings on the robart gear with. After some thought I will stay with O rings from my local fastenall store. about 2.50 for 15 of them. Had thought of a bungey cord, but if it brakes, you have nothing. If one o ring brakes you are still good. unless you slam it in, dont think you will brake all 4 o rings at one time. I do replace mine every year.
Cub Man, the bungee cord was an idea I picked up from a club member at our field... it does work; my inlaw is running it on his H9 cub... I put a short piece of 200lb test fishing wire to act as a strain relief so on a hard landing the bungees are not over stretched... the fishing wire loops up over the brace and connects between the lower o-ring / bungee pegs on each side... a couple loops of the ends of the wire through a crimp collar holds the entire loop together... the excess is then tucked away inside the bungee covers... the excess isn't that much, so its not easily seen... the only part visible is the short section going over the brace... on a hard landing the excess wire just gets pulled out of the covers; just tuck it back in and you're all set to go again... we haven't intentionally slammed it down on the ground to see what will happen, but for normal operation and the occasional hard landing, nothing has broken yet.... but I understand your concerns, regarding a complete failure, you'll be on the belly!... I'm sure if you land hard enough, the leverage action of the landing gear may break the 200lb test fishing wire, but if you can break the fishing wire, the o-rings are sure to go.

John M,
Old 03-20-2014, 04:39 AM
  #1918  
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I have been using "O" Rings from an industrial supply house and replacing them often. Half the time they don't even charge me I get so few.
Old 03-20-2014, 10:45 AM
  #1919  
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I was disappointed with the original o-rings that came with the gear... they broke down within a few months just sitting on the build table... I came home from work one day and noticed the cub was slumped to one side... the o-rings had cracked and broken right at the radius where the o-rings bend around the pegs... not sure if its due to ozone in the air, or possibly fuel / oil residue or a combination of the elements.

I didn't like the gear action the o-rings provided anyways, so I went looking for an alternative... tried fuel tubing, but it didn't have enough elasticity... rubber bands worked better, but they suffered with the same problem as the o-rings... one of our flying buddies at our field has a cub with the robart landing gear, and I asked him if he had any issues with the o-rings... he showed me what he uses, which was some 3/16" black woven nylon covered bungee cord he got from the hardware store... he made one bungee per side; made loops at the ends and tied them off with some bail wire... he rapped the bungees around the four pegs starting at one of the lower pegs and then over the peg above; then crossed over to the next lower peg and then up over the top peg ; crossed back over and then terminated the bungee back at the starting peg... it really provides a nice cushion effect with very little tendency to rebound or bounce... because each bungee is one continuous length, as the gear moves and the bungees stretch, they roll around the pegs like pulleys, which provides a fair amount of travel... the woven black nylon helps to keep the elements away from the elastic, and helps eliminate any chaffing as the bungees move around the pegs... its a bit of a fiddle getting the length of the chord right; just have to keep adjusting the length until you get the correct pre-load to support the weight of the aircraft... when its set correctly, it reminds me of the suspension action of some of these RC cars, where you drop them on the ground, and they kinda stick to the ground without bouncing... I like it better than the o-rings... once we got the length of the chord right, we made several sets... my inlaw is still on the first set, which has to be a couple of seasons... and since we have the fishing wire as a strain relief, if the bungees were to break it couldn't drop down on its belly... and as I stated earlier, if you land hard enough to break the 200lb test fishing wire, its really not a normal or even a hard landing; its a controlled crash landing,


John M,
Old 03-20-2014, 05:34 PM
  #1920  
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Thanks John! That is very helpfull information! Thank you for taking the time to post.
Old 03-20-2014, 06:32 PM
  #1921  
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Hey guys,
I would like to join this brotherhood. I have always had a cub of some size in my hanger. My latest is a Balsa USA 1/4 scale made into a AE-1. There is a pilot and patient in a stretcher. The Cub ways 16 pounds 9 oz. Power is DlE 30 gas
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:48 PM
  #1922  
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bwoofter, that is very cool... definitely a unique looking model... nice power to weight @ 16.9.
Old 03-21-2014, 05:31 AM
  #1923  
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Air ambulance, love it!
Old 03-21-2014, 07:29 AM
  #1924  
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Allright; here I'm going to show my ignorance, so please bear with me.

Part of my CMP Cub build is going to be an ArduPilot (in hopes it can keep me from lawn-darting it in the first 90 seconds); critical to making it work right is having it leveled correctly with respect to the nominal flight attitude of the craft.

Am I correct in assuming that the dorsal centerline at level flight should be a line between the horizontal stab and the motor shaft?

Or am I oversimplifying, and that centerline is offset due to the high-wing geometry of the plane?

Yes, I do realize that this will vary with how close to nominal COG I am with my final setup.

Thanks,


mnem

Last edited by mnemennth; 03-21-2014 at 10:25 AM. Reason: RCU... Grrrrrr!
Old 03-21-2014, 10:13 AM
  #1925  
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I would think with the GMP cub, the center line would be referenced through the horizontal stab at level flight with the correct CG; whether the center line will follow through the motor shalt is unknown due to possible motor down thrust / placement.... I checked my Sig plans and the engine shaft center line is well below the center line of the horizontal stab, so assume the center line is offset.


John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 03-21-2014 at 03:44 PM.

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