John_M_

No, it will be screwed with some 4-40 flathead screws on the front face of F-5, where the cabin blocks go (look at my image on my last few replies up)

John M,

John_M_

Also Murphey... keep in mind, that, that wire will be mortised (buried) in to the top Cabane's and the forward window stays; as well as the rear window pillar at F-6.... F-6 will be removed entirely, and the long side pieces of F-5 seen in you door opening will be removed as well.... so the inside of the fuselage sides will be flat (no formers) from F-7 all the way past F-5... I may steal a bit of your idea and re-enforce across the top of the fuse with some plywood pieces where F-6 was, and where the F5G gussets were.


John M

Murphey

My Feedback: (11)

Yep John...I meant F5...not F5G! That looks like a good idea.
I spent the rest of the day making a prototype door latch system...I'm on rev-3, but I think Rev 4 will work! I'll post a photo when I have it! Next step, the door and window hinges...oh and the window frame!
M

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Guys my redesigned site is up and running. www.thecubden.org. I also have info on line now for the upcoming Warbirds and Classics event. On the right side of the page is a contact us. PLEASE give me some feedback on the new look

John_M_

Ok cool; haven't thought about how to do the door/window construction yet... you have the advantage over mine... you don't have the cabin blocks in place yet... I'm doing this door/window mod on a 12+ year old "finished" sig cub... what started this whole reworking, was the 21 century fabric broke down and went all sticky... my borther inlaw used windex with ammonia to clean the oil off, and the ammonia attacked the painted coating on the 21st century fabric... so it was decided to recover in solartex and add some more scale detail... now its turned in to a more involved project, lol

First glance, looks real nice!!

John M

darren4

Can you add me to Cub Brotherhood. GibsonAviation Thanks. Darren from cold Wisconsin. Great Planes 40 J3 cub, os ax 55 Fiberglass Specialties super cub cowl. Clipped wing 61.5" wing span. Balanced perfect with this engine, very fast plane which I like.

stevegauth30

A very fast J3? Is that an oxy moron or something? Never heard of a fast cub. LOL.

stevegauth30

Looks nice BTW.

John_M_

LoL... I used to have a "Wanderer" 6 foot wing span sailplane / slope soarer... I put a power pod on it with a cox tee dee 051 and that thing was fast... I flew it like a pylon racer... everyone asked me why... and I relied because was a lot of fun!


John M

John_M_

Ok, concerning the door/window... from what I've seen of the Hangar 9 Cubs, and a few others; the door looks way too thick when its opened... I think I'm going to frame up the door with some 3/16 hardwood dowels, and the window frame with some 3/16 hardwood "square" stock... and then thin down the door/window frame opening in fuselage down to match the thickness of the door and window; just by chamfering back the frame at a 45 degree angle... that should make it appear as if the fuselage sides are thinner, i.e. 3/16 instead of nearly 7/16.

John M,

Cub Man

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Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Hey Guys, I have set up the Warbirds and Classics over Kentucky on the RC Flight Deck http://www.RCFlightDeck.com/event_de...?event_id=3113 Pre registration is open and if you are coming, please register

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Yes the door is too thick. the door on a full scale is just a little over a inch thick so that is 1/4 inch on the plane. hard to build the fuse this thin and still be strong

acerc

Registered and looking forward to it.

Murphey

My Feedback: (11)

John: Rev-4 seems to work so I'll go with this one. I agree with you about the thickness of the door...but I needed it to get the door mechanism inside. On Rev 2 or 3, I tried to make the mechanism as thin as possible...got it thin but wouldn't work right so I settled for thicker and working...
After completing the door, I got it hinged, and the the latch set to hold the door closed. Built the window frame out of 1/4 stock. Hardwood for the top rail and balsa for the bottom. So some progress was made today! After I get all of this worked out, the next step is the window trim for the entire cabin. My cowl from Fiberglass Specialties comes tomorrow and I made a scale Continental 65 HP motor from Top Notch Kits, so I can begin working on that. The down side is that next week is a busy week with business travel...which I do to support my building!
M

Murphey

My Feedback: (11)

Cub Man...Please sign me up to this ever growing Brotherhood!
Murphey

John_M_

Right... but I can bevel back the edge of the door opening on the fuselage so it doesn't appear to be as thick... when I get to that stage I'll post some pic's... it's slow going, I only get a couple hours here and there to work on it.

Looks great!... that's pretty close to how the real one works... yeah, I know things can get too small to work reliably even at 1/4 scale... the door thickness, isn't a real issue, who's going to fly with the door and window open anyway, and risk the chance of getting it torn off; but for static show, a thinner door would look nicer... I may fine when I get to that point, that its not feasible to do It the way I see it in my head.... I have been fooled before!!... by my brain that is,lol.

John M,

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Looks very similar to what SIG did for their 1/5 Scale Cub.

stevegauth30

hey, to each his own, I just never heard of a fast J3 before. Sounds fun anyway.

John_M_

Yeah I agree... my 1/4 cub original had a Saito FA-130TD in it... It weighed in at 16.5 pounds... the 130 had more than enough power, but not too much... it wouldn't hag on the prop, but enough to do stall turns / hammer heads... we mostly flew it at 1/3-1/2 throttle and just cruised around the skies... the 130 was a b**** to get set right though; lost a cylinder every once in a while, but once we got it setup, it was pretty reliable... it was a great buy though, 289 bucks back 12 years ago, great value... I think the single cylinder 4 strokes, or 2 / 4 stroke gassers are the way to go for the best reliability; like in the 120 - 150 range... I've seen some Cubs with electric motors and they seem to fly very well.


John M,

rafeeki

My Feedback: (11)

I got an OS FT 160 going into my hangar 9 cub. Just opened the box..

Horsepoweraviation

My Feedback: (50)

Please add me to the Cub club
Here is my BUSA 1/3 scale cub that I put some "tundra tires" and has a 3w 50 twin

HPA

acdii

Hmm How big a cub do I need for a DA100?

acerc

Bigger than anyone makes, that is nearly big enough for the real thing.

stevegauth30

You'll have to talk to Vince blasky about that one. That's a lot of cub.