cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Hey John,
I would make the repairs if they are willing to compensate you what you want. The motor being backordered
will give you time to do the repairs and install servos and other goodies.

John_M_

Thanks cub crasher, its all been taken care of... my inlaw has been in contact with customer support and they are sending out replacements... he didn't want me to repair it since it was shipping damage... so lets hope the replacement wings fair better during their transit.

Working away at what I can until the wings arrive... so far its looking decent; not a badly made kit for an ARF... I feel like a little kid again with a new toy, lol... I needed something to fly that was mine... my inlaw is more excited that I am, but I have a sneaky suspicion he's got more of an interest in it than he says... I'll probably be fighting him for the transmitter, just as I have done with his j3 for the last several months, the shoe will be on the other foot so'da speak, lol


John M,

bikerbc

I had damage to one of my wings and they replaced it and let me keep the damaged one . I felt in a way that composited me for my inconvenience . I have heard Horizon changed hands , I hope that customer service doesn't go down hill . The great customer service makes Horizons high prices worthwhile ..

smkrcflyer

Where do you guys get your shock cord for the landing gear? I have a 1/5 scale cub that needs o rings replaced.

John_M_

Yeah, they want both my wings back... I guess its all depends on how bad the damage is whether they let you keep the damaged goods... in my case they're repairable, but the customer shouldn't really have to do repairs on a newly purchase product... the wings are always the ones that take a beating... I've got fuselage to the point I need the wings to continue, so I'm on hold until the replacements arrive; Monday I hope.

As it stand now, they have an excellent customer support rating; I hope that doesn't change either... but I hope they can figure out a way to bullet proof their packaging methods so they survive the brutal treatment they get from the shipping process... both companies (HH and Fedx) loose a lot of revenue dealing with damaged goods.

I got mine at Home Depot... I got a package of small bungees cords (about 1/8" in diameter (black) and just cut the metal ends off and folded the bungee back on itself, and then used some stainless steel bailing wire to bind the loops.



John M,

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Fastenall is a good place to buy o rings. Get a dozen or more for a couple bills.

shiprex

I used the 1/8" thick O-rings on my gear, two per side. they have been on for about eight weeks now and show no signs of stress. They also came from Fastenal.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I get my O rings from a commercial gasket place for next to nothing.

mustangherb

My Feedback: (6)

Hey guys and gals I need some help with my Goldberg cub. I built this cub (Anniversary Cub) a little over a year ago as an electric and the plane has been an excellent flyer, but the esc always seem to be getting to hot. To promote better cooling I opened a hole under the bottom of the plane at the last opening at the back, but now the flight characteristics have change for the worse but the esc is staying cool. The plane has a very pronounced adverse yaw and it also next to imposible to fly it in a knife edge. Can anyone help cure my problem?

smkrcflyer

Thanks everyone for the O ring info.

bikerbc

You can usually find shock cord in sports stores . Its used inside tent hoops and thing like that . You might find it in a fabric shop ..Google it . You need 3/16" 0r 1/8 " Yes I agree about the shipping . I needed to have a float replaced 4 times before I received one with no damage .. I live across the border so it took most of the flying season . I now have 4 damaged but reparable floats .. If I had ,had to send them back it would have taken much longer .

larscato

Has anyone else experienced that the elevator pushrod on the Sig 1/5 cub is very very tight. I have tried everyting, lubing it, sanding the inner tube a bit. Still notchy. Damn!!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Check to see if the arm is hitting at the the servo. That is where I had a problem on mine.

larscato

No I can feel it binding even when it is disconnected at the elevator and the servo. Something inside the tube is making it bind I think. I might try connecting a dremel or something to the inner tube and spin it around inside the outer tube and see if it gets any better. The outher tube is glued to the bulkheads with cyano glue and I think I used some accelerator on it. Have a theory that the cyano and accelerator has heaten up the tube and deformed it slightly.

smkrcflyer

Try disconnecting the inner rod from the flying surface then slowly start pulling it back turning it at the same time. This should help to locate the location of the bind.

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

herb,
The only cure I know is to cover the hole, put in a FS 70 engine . Then it will kinfe edge all day long.

mustangherb

My Feedback: (6)

Cubcrasher,
You are probably correct. This has been a great flying plane up until this point. It is just hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that the hole has caused such an adverse change in certain flight characteristics.

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

I like cubcrasher's answer! Your Mustang isn't electric is it? OK, now we're piling on. I would cover the opening you just made in the rear of the fuselage, do a short test flight ( short to not overheat the ESC) and see if the bad flying characteristics are gone. If it flys good again I would then move the air exit hole farther forward still on the bottom of the fuselage about 2"-2.5" behind where the trailing edge of the wing is (but on the bottom of the fuselage). This is about where Hanger 9 put an air exit hole on their 25e Cub. This one is a little smaller (60" ws) than your Goldberg Cub but at 2.5" it should be a good starting point. They also put an air deflector just ahead of the opening to create a low pressure area to assist in extracting hot air out of the fuselage. Angle the deflector back at about 45 degrees and make it the full width of the air slot you cut. I would make the deflector about 5/16"- 3/8" tall and out of hard balsa or whatever you got.

bigbird3

Please for give, the ole bird is failing this evening, This should have been address to LARSCATO IN NORWAY.
smkrcflyer, I have heard of a lot of folks putting petroleum products on their nyrod. It always ended with more binding. Seems the Petroleum causes a reaction that the plastic doesn't like! You might try some graphite powder. Don't put it in the anchored tube but take the inner rod out and dress it with it. The reason I say that is that the powder is conductive and excessive amounts scattered in the radio components would be hazardous to say the least. It wouldn't take much. Also, at this point you might have to remove the old rod because it is contaminated and ruined. It cannot be repaired at this point! You might consider 'stick and wire' for the push rod. Just make sure the wire on the tail end is as short as you can get away with to minimize any flex with the 'Z' bend coming out of the fuselage. Many of this type of push rod can cause flex if the wire is too long on either end. Use 5/16" dowel and it will be stronger. Try not to be too distraught over this, it can be done with just a little tinkering. If you need any ideas, please let me know, I will be glad to help in any way.
Hope this helps.

bird.

bigbird3

I THINK THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN ADDRESSED TO MUSTANGHERB. SORRY 52. Please forgive the error.
52larry52, one thing you might try is, if you have the scrap from the kit, I always saved them and still have them from the 90's when I built mine, anyway, find the pop out that came out of that hole. Sand it to fit loosely so you can cover it and it will fit, then before covering it cut slits in it for venting and but some back up tabs inside the fuse and screw it in. Also, there are some round 'soffet' inserts at the hardware store. they come in many sizes and have louver slots already in them so all you have to do is cut a hole in the plug and glue it in. The louvers will provide the 'cowl flap' effect to draw the air out. This was referred to as a 'deflector'. They are aluminum and very light. Also as for the ESC, It is always a good idea to increase the wattage size at least 20 or 30 percent especially if you plan to run your rig full out. They won't even get hot if you do this. Of course, venting is always crucial. They are so cheap anymore that one could get by cheaply with the increase.
Hope this helps.
bird.
.

mustangherb

My Feedback: (6)

52larry52,
Thanks for the info, as I hate playing with mixes. I will try to find a picture of what Eflite did with the 25e cub. By the way I do not have a Mustang plane, but a 1965 fastback. The FW190 is my favorite warbird, but I do not own one yet!

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Hey, just got a J3 Cub 72" wing span - scratch built by a friend. It is old and used but flies great. Love it - my first glow engine so still working on all that but I am getting there. Can I join the group?

Keith

mnemennth

HeeHeeHeee!

My new Flight Controller just arrived:



http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...n_to_home.html

This Cub might actually survive more than 90 seconds with me at the sticks!!!


mnem
*Busy with Dad visitin' from New York all week*

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I wouldn't recommend graphite at all it has ruined many expensive locks by causing excessive wear by acting like rubbing compound or sandpaper. I would recommend a good 100% silicone lubricant, they usually come as sprays. Silicone will NOT react with the plastic and has no grit like graphite. If I had to guess though I would say one of the holes in a former that the out casing passes threw is too small causing the binding.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I wonder if I should buy one too and for the same reason Mnem?!