John_M_

Thanks Bird... I haven't flown it yet, still WIP... I have been working on refurbishing that cub on and off for just over a year now...

Those aluminum collets (or nipples) are threaded making them fully adjustable.. there's a shoulder on the collets that prevents it from passing through the brass bracket (or clevis), but allows it to turn inside the brass... I plan on putting a drop of blue loctite on the jam nut once I get it all set up and under tension... my main concern is vibration acting on that shoulder where the collet shoulder bears down on the the inside of the brass clevis... I'm hoping with the right tension, those parts won't rub to together, not to mention the possibility of RF noise if they do rub together.

I did try to make the collets out of steel, but I kept breaking the 2/56 tap... btw, great planes makes the sharpest taps... dubro's were horrible, very brittle... if I have too much wear take place from vibration, I can always make the collets out of some brass, and then once I get everything setup and under tension, I could put a drop of silver solder (soft stuff) to bond the two together; that would stop the parts from rubbing together.




That look great Cub Man.... yours won't move with vibration.. I can see you spent some time on those... I still need to get rid of the square ends on the clevis's and use some scale hex bolts.

The original full sized braces are very small to begin with... the clevis's are just a hair under 5/8" wide, and (avg) 2" long, and about 0.62 thick material... 25%, 5/32" wide and 0.500 long and 0.015 thick... just no easy way to make them that small and be fully fuctional... third scale lends itself better for doing the details.




John M,

ARUP

Here's how I made the 1/6 scale tail brace components.



I soldered brass tube within tube onto music wire to make the collet with hex head. Flats were hand filed to resemble the hex head. portion.

John_M_

Hey ARUP nice job on those...quite a process you went through for1/6 scale, they look very scale like.





John M,

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

John, I did say start at 400 feet.............LOL

Let us know how that unit works.

Keith

mnemennth

Well, I hope to be getting my Cheap 72" ARF on the bench soon; if I'm lucky, before my little grrl gets too interested in it. We'll see how I likes that T1000FC unit. Honestly, I was VERY impressed with the $20 ORX 3-Axis Gyro W/DSM2 I put in my Dynam 42" Pitts; but my friends were kind enough to talk me down from flying it until I got a little better skillz... I'm still toying with the idea of putting the T1000FC in the Pitts.


mnem
*Up to my elbows in quadcopter parts*

bigbird3

John, I never had RF problems except steel to steel. The brass or aluminum never did. Don't think you will have any problem with steel with brass or aluminum combination.
bird.

John_M_

LoL... yeah from my primitive calculations, @ 400ft, if and that's a big IF, the T1000FC doesn't do as I expected it to do, the time it will take to relink with the receiver to regain flight control = splat... since mnem has one, we'll let him test it out; he likes to do product reviews anyway, so he can literally kill two birds with one stone, or at least one bird ;-)


Thanks Bird... I have some .018 stainless sheet, and a small arbor press... I may have another go at making the clevises and collets, as I mentioned earlier those 2/56 taps are very easily broken, but I may have found another way... I will test these out first to see if I need to go to all that trouble.


***EDIT***

I found these round standoff spacers in stainless with a 2/56 female thread in various lengths... I could make new collets; all I would need to do is machine the outer diameter down a bit to provide a shoulder... and then press fit it into the stainless clevis... the braces would still be adjustable, but I would have to turn the clevis and collet as one to lengthen or shorten the brace.

http://www.apexfasteners.com/fastene...emale-standoff



John M,

CanDo

Here is my Page Aviation Super Cub. It's not a scale model, but I did include flaps, a working door, landing and nav lights, plus a "window" in the wing. The plane came out 5 3/4 lb (without flight battery), which should be good for a 80" wing span. I'm glad I finally got around to building it!

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Good lookin cub there CanDo.

John_M_

Nice job CanDo... I bet she flies as good as she looks.




John M,

mnemennth

Good lord save me... I think I'm turning into one of you stick-builders. The first thing I did was click on his uncovered photo and say to myself "Nice looking bones".


mnem
*Adventure Time*

CanDo

Thanks for the kind words gentlemen. I'm hoping to stir up a little motivation for other slow builders like myself! If all goes well, the maiden flight will be in the next couple of days.

acdii

I have loads of motivation, I lack TIME.

stevegauth30

Hey, good luck on the maiden can do. You " can do" it! Pun intended of course. Let us know how well it went.

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

I agree on the time. I have 5 kits to build plus work on the 1/3 scale super cub. Had a 60 size p51 setting on teh sheld for over 5 years now.

acdii

My P-51 has been under construction now for 3 years, and will take at least another year or two, so I got an ARF to fly in the meantime, and to practice on so I dont turn the one I worked so hard on into a kit again.

bigbird3

I've got loads of time! Anybody want some? Just turn 62 then have two heart attacks within two months and there you go! Instant retirement! Like I said before, I want to slump over the building table with a piece of balsa in one hand and a bottle of CA in the other! Sound pessimistic? Not really, I'm a realist!
bird.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Now that's what I call looking at the bright side! Two heart attacks in two months??? Sheesh!!!

David

larscato

Sign me in please? Sig 1/5 scale cub

Lars

larscato

hope to maiden it soon.

bigbird3

larscato, better not let mama catch you with that thing in the house on her table! BACK IN THE BASEMENT WITH THAT THING! hehe!
bird.................Nice covering job. Do you use a sock on the iron? Looks like it. Makes all the difference.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

OK, let me open this up.... I need an opinion :-) :-) I have a H9 Cub and was thinking about making another. I looked at the Goldberg Anniversary Cub but was wondering about how the wing was attached??? Was it held on by rubber bands or was it a tube & screw affair, like the H9 Cub.

If it's got a rubber band hold-down, I'm not interested.

What other options are there??? Here is what I might be looking at:

I like the size of the H9 .40 Cub, so I'd like something in the 80" span category.

Are there any plans/kits/arfs out there that offer a reasonably scale airplane that could be built as a Cub or as a L-4?

I'm sure that everyone has an opinion, so I'd like to see what you all say....

Thanks!!

Bob

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Take a look at the sig anniversary kit. It is laser cut, and has a door. I think
it has about the wingspan that you are looking for.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I was looking at that originally... but one of the recommended accessories was rubber bands. Does this airplane require rubber bands to hold the wing on? I'd rather not use them.

Also, has anyone converted the Anniversary Cub to an L-4??

What other recommendations do people have?

Thanks,

Bob

John_M_

Hey N1EDM.... here's the full pdf manual http://www.kavanrc.de/instructions/s...versarycub.pdf... looks like it uses a wing tube... after browsing through the manual, I've got some new ideas about reenforcing the fuselage on their 1/4 scale kit.




John M,