***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
#2426
Senior Member
The FG-11 uses the 10x1mm exhaust of the FA-50 series.
The RCS10x1/90 adaptor will work.
I used a 90° adaptor on my 1/5 scale Cub & was able to fit the 12mm exhaust on my FA-91S inside the cowl exiting @ an angle through the 2" x 2 1/4" cooling hole @ the rear bottom of the cowl.
#2427
Flight report: the maiden was a success! No ground handling problems, plenty of power (12x6 prop, 600W, 6 3/4 lb RTF), it has a gentle stall, is smooth flying, but the landing was a little bouncy (I needed a little more throttle for landing). Although I've been flying for quite a while, this is my first Cub; I see why folks like them so much!
#2428
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Victoria TX
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Lars - Nice bones!
I was looking at that originally... but one of the recommended accessories was rubber bands. Does this airplane require rubber bands to hold the wing on? I'd rather not use them.
Also, has anyone converted the Anniversary Cub to an L-4??
What other recommendations do people have?
Thanks,
Bob
I'm going to toss out the incredibly obvious suggestion here, since the merely obvious simply won't do... It's a Cub, and a relatively Scale kit. My guess would be the "rubber bands" are for the landing gear?
Do you have cookies?
Yeah, and I can see YOURS; it's the right color. Makes me want mine done even more... but things are going so well on my quad project, I REALLY hate to "Stop a good roll once it's goin' " if you know what I mean...
mnem
Dang. I need to update muh Signature...
Also, has anyone converted the Anniversary Cub to an L-4??
What other recommendations do people have?
Thanks,
Bob
Mnem, come over to the dark side, resistance is futile. You know you want to, and you don't even have to inhale!
Flight report: the maiden was a success! No ground handling problems, plenty of power (12x6 prop, 600W, 6 3/4 lb RTF), it has a gentle stall, is smooth flying, but the landing was a little bouncy (I needed a little more throttle for landing). Although I've been flying for quite a while, this is my first Cub; I see why folks like them so much!
mnem
Dang. I need to update muh Signature...
#2429
I fudged a wing. I forgot to put the trim tape for separating the red and white and started applying red dope. To avoid the red bleeding through the white when I "fix" it, will putting clear over the red help? Now that I am almost done with the covering, I realized how much work I still have left to do. Yikes. Still have to put the wood in the landing gear and get that covered and painted. Attach the rudder, cover the door and window and install those, then I can move on to installing the engine, cowl, and radio. Then the glass.
Now that I have some color on it, I am really liking how it looks, its a Red, White, and Blue Cub. I wonder where I can get a ring of stars for the tail.
Now that I have some color on it, I am really liking how it looks, its a Red, White, and Blue Cub. I wonder where I can get a ring of stars for the tail.
#2430
Did someone say fudge?... I like fudge with walnuts in it.
I would re-tape the line (waste tape on the red side) and lightly sand the expose red in front to the tape edge with some wet /dry paper... then apply a lite coat of clear at the tape edge and any red left behind... and then reapply your white... that's a real difficult one to approach, you're suppose to put your dark's on top of your light colors... I'm not a painter so maybe someone with more experience will chime in.
John M,
I would re-tape the line (waste tape on the red side) and lightly sand the expose red in front to the tape edge with some wet /dry paper... then apply a lite coat of clear at the tape edge and any red left behind... and then reapply your white... that's a real difficult one to approach, you're suppose to put your dark's on top of your light colors... I'm not a painter so maybe someone with more experience will chime in.
John M,
#2431
Heres the wing, I need to get a wider brush so I can paint the blue. I have been using a 3/8" brush for the blue since it was the least color I have been painting.
Heres the tail. Going to continue the red up the tail once I attach the rudder.
Leaving the elevator full red. Rudder will be red white and blue too.
Heres the tail. Going to continue the red up the tail once I attach the rudder.
Leaving the elevator full red. Rudder will be red white and blue too.
#2432
Nice sharp paint lines on the tail, shame you missed the tape on the red part of the wing... I would try adding the tape on those areas of the wing and see if you can remove most of the unwanted red with the wet n dry... after you restore the white, you may have to re-tape and paint the red again to get your sharp line back over the white... I know Birds good with this stuff, he may have a better suggestion
.John M,
.John M,
#2433
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Williamstown,
VT
Posts: 556
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#2434
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Williamstown,
VT
Posts: 556
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I fudged a wing. I forgot to put the trim tape for separating the red and white and started applying red dope. To avoid the red bleeding through the white when I "fix" it, will putting clear over the red help? Now that I am almost done with the covering, I realized how much work I still have left to do. Yikes. Still have to put the wood in the landing gear and get that covered and painted. Attach the rudder, cover the door and window and install those, then I can move on to installing the engine, cowl, and radio. Then the glass.
Now that I have some color on it, I am really liking how it looks, its a Red, White, and Blue Cub. I wonder where I can get a ring of stars for the tail.
Now that I have some color on it, I am really liking how it looks, its a Red, White, and Blue Cub. I wonder where I can get a ring of stars for the tail.
Also, when taping off for painting, use Frog Tape, It has a formula that will instantly cauterize when liquid hits it. I usually take a damp rag and wipe the tape to set it off and then paint. When crossing tape over tape, lay a piece on glass and cut a strait edge with the blade at an angle, this way when you cross over that edge it will transition without a void at the intersection and no bleeding! Hope this helps.
bird.
Last edited by bigbird3; 07-01-2014 at 07:05 AM.
#2436
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Williamstown,
VT
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#2438
i fudged a wing. I forgot to put the trim tape for separating the red and white and started applying red dope. To avoid the red bleeding through the white when i "fix" it, will putting clear over the red help? Now that i am almost done with the covering, i realized how much work i still have left to do. Yikes. Still have to put the wood in the landing gear and get that covered and painted. Attach the rudder, cover the door and window and install those, then i can move on to installing the engine, cowl, and radio. Then the glass. Now that i have some color on it, i am really liking how it looks, its a red, white, and blue cub. I wonder where i can get a ring of stars for the tail.
try at the vinyl graphics place. The stuff they use is really thin now and stays put nicely.also, when taping off for painting, use frog tape, it has a formula that will instantly cauterize when liquid hits it. I usually take a damp rag and wipe the tape to set it off and then paint. When crossing tape over tape, lay a piece on glass and cut a strait edge with the blade at an angle, this way when you cross over that edge it will transition without a void at the intersection and no bleeding! Hope this helps.bird.
I think what acdii needs help with is fixing his boo boo where he FORGOT to place his masking tape to define the edge or broader of his red color on the wing... now he has this uneven red brush marks into the white area where it shouldn't be... he needs advice on how to fix it... I suggested he place his tape where he wants the red edge or boarder to be... that will show how much of the unwanted red color has gone into the white areas... then he could carefully remove the red with some wet / dry sand paper and then apply a light coat of clear over that area to stop any of the red he may have missed or can't remove completely from bleeding into the white paint as he re-applies the white to cover over his boo boo.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-01-2014 at 09:34 AM.
#2440
Plus the fact the robart gear is no where near scale in its width fore and aft.
You can try contacting this guy from rc groups forum, or you can purchase a replacement gear set from horizon hobbies for their 1/4 scale cubs... the quality is not as good as robart's, but they're only half the price plus shipping.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1960825
***Edit***
Here's another site
http://www.cublandinggear.com/
John M,
You can try contacting this guy from rc groups forum, or you can purchase a replacement gear set from horizon hobbies for their 1/4 scale cubs... the quality is not as good as robart's, but they're only half the price plus shipping.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1960825
***Edit***
Here's another site
http://www.cublandinggear.com/
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-01-2014 at 03:11 PM.
#2442
#2444
I added the robart gear and the H9 cub wing struts to my Sig cub... I went ahead and mounted the gear first, mortised the mounting brackets into the bottom of the fuse... the wing struts worked out great, but I put the robart gear in the same location where sig had their gear... the rear gear mount ended up 3/4" of an inch forward of the wing strut mounts on the fuse... sigs wing strut geometry is correct for scale... because I had already mounted the robart gear, it was too much work to widen the gear fore and aft. so I just went ahead a redid the wing struts and strut mounting brackets on the fuse to meet at the rear gear mount... it involved cutting the wing struts and redoing the threaded ends... I maybe over zealous trying to make it look scale, but that was, and still is my goal... its not exact by any means, but I wanted it to be dimensionally correct as close as it could be (except that gear, lol)... if I had put the H9 landing gear on, everything would have worked out; pretty much plug n' play, except the strut mounts in the wings had to be reworked of course... I'm over most of the hurdles now, I just need to focus on the door.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-01-2014 at 10:51 PM.
#2445
My Feedback: (6)
I have Robart Gear on my SIG 1/5th scale Cub and I am very happy with the look. I wasn't going for super scale I even used Bright Yellow because I can't stand Cub yellow. My ownly complaint is the life span of the "O" rings, I change them often and buy they from an industrial gasket company on the cheap.
#2446
Thanks for the tips. Since I have to repaint the white to match the gloss of the red and blue, I will wind up remasking anyways. I used Testors trim tape for the fuse and tail, made a really nice sharp line. I have used Frog tape before and was not entirely impressed with the line it left, it was a little jagged. My biggest concern its the bleed through since its Dope. the white will soften the red and pull it through even if I sand it. I was wondering if a coat of clear over the top will help prevent it. That reminds me I still need to pick up a couple more fine wide brushes. The artists brushes I used are doing great, but I only have 2 wide ones, and need one more for the blue. No matter how well I clean them, some color is still left behind to bleed into the other one. With any luck I will have the Cub painting finished this upcoming 3 day weekend.
#2447
I have Robart Gear on my SIG 1/5th scale Cub and I am very happy with the look. I wasn't going for super scale I even used Bright Yellow because I can't stand Cub yellow. My ownly complaint is the life span of the "O" rings, I change them often and buy they from an industrial gasket company on the cheap.
I got rid of the o-rings, and made my own bungees using 1/8-3/16" shock cord from home depot; basically I bought a bag of small bungee cords and cut the the metal hooks off and made loops at the ends and bound it with some stainless steel bail wire (or safety wire)... make one long bungee and weave it back and forth between the four pegs... just have to keep adjusting the length until you get the right tension for the weight of the aircraft.
Thanks for the tips. Since I have to repaint the white to match the gloss of the red and blue, I will wind up remasking anyways. I used Testors trim tape for the fuse and tail, made a really nice sharp line. I have used Frog tape before and was not entirely impressed with the line it left, it was a little jagged. My biggest concern its the bleed through since its Dope. the white will soften the red and pull it through even if I sand it. I was wondering if a coat of clear over the top will help prevent it. That reminds me I still need to pick up a couple more fine wide brushes. The artists brushes I used are doing great, but I only have 2 wide ones, and need one more for the blue. No matter how well I clean them, some color is still left behind to bleed into the other one. With any luck I will have the Cub painting finished this upcoming 3 day weekend.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-02-2014 at 11:00 PM.
#2449
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2013
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I got rid of the o-rings, and made my own bungees using 1/8-3/16" shock chord from home depot; basically I bought a bag of small bungee chords and cut the the metal hooks off and made loops at the ends and bound it with some stainless steel bail wire (or safety wire)... make one long bungee and weave it back and forth between the four pegs... just have to keep adjusting the length until you get the right tension for the weight of the aircraft.
Just an FYI - those work good but you can also find rolls of the shock cord sometimes at ARMY Surplus stores or Camping Equipment stores. You can buy it in different thickness and in any length you need.
Keith
Just an FYI - those work good but you can also find rolls of the shock cord sometimes at ARMY Surplus stores or Camping Equipment stores. You can buy it in different thickness and in any length you need.
Keith
#2450
Ok thanks Keith... I'll look in to that, may work out cheaper in the long run... the quality of bungees I get from home depot aren't too bad... we haven't had one break yet, but I put a short section of 200lb test fishing leader wire across the center brace and anchored to one of the pegs either side, with enough slack to act as a strain relief... unfortunately I can't put the fishing leader on the H9 super cub gear, in fear of the small M3 nuts may get torn off... I don't think they're man enough to take the strain on a hard landing... I could take the fishing leader down to the axles, but we'll see if it becomes necessary.
John M,
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-02-2014 at 05:51 PM.