SrTelemaster150

The FG-11 uses the 10x1mm exhaust of the FA-50 series.

The RCS10x1/90 adaptor will work.

I used a 90° adaptor on my 1/5 scale Cub & was able to fit the 12mm exhaust on my FA-91S inside the cowl exiting @ an angle through the 2" x 2 1/4" cooling hole @ the rear bottom of the cowl.

CanDo

Flight report: the maiden was a success! No ground handling problems, plenty of power (12x6 prop, 600W, 6 3/4 lb RTF), it has a gentle stall, is smooth flying, but the landing was a little bouncy (I needed a little more throttle for landing). Although I've been flying for quite a while, this is my first Cub; I see why folks like them so much!

mnemennth

Lars - Nice bones!


I'm going to toss out the incredibly obvious suggestion here, since the merely obvious simply won't do... It's a Cub, and a relatively Scale kit. My guess would be the "rubber bands" are for the landing gear?


Do you have cookies?

Yeah, and I can see YOURS; it's the right color. Makes me want mine done even more... but things are going so well on my quad project, I REALLY hate to "Stop a good roll once it's goin' " if you know what I mean...


mnem
Dang. I need to update muh Signature...

acdii

I fudged a wing. I forgot to put the trim tape for separating the red and white and started applying red dope. To avoid the red bleeding through the white when I "fix" it, will putting clear over the red help? Now that I am almost done with the covering, I realized how much work I still have left to do. Yikes. Still have to put the wood in the landing gear and get that covered and painted. Attach the rudder, cover the door and window and install those, then I can move on to installing the engine, cowl, and radio. Then the glass.

Now that I have some color on it, I am really liking how it looks, its a Red, White, and Blue Cub. I wonder where I can get a ring of stars for the tail.

John_M_

Did someone say fudge?... I like fudge with walnuts in it.


I would re-tape the line (waste tape on the red side) and lightly sand the expose red in front to the tape edge with some wet /dry paper... then apply a lite coat of clear at the tape edge and any red left behind... and then reapply your white... that's a real difficult one to approach, you're suppose to put your dark's on top of your light colors... I'm not a painter so maybe someone with more experience will chime in.



John M,

acdii

Heres the wing, I need to get a wider brush so I can paint the blue. I have been using a 3/8" brush for the blue since it was the least color I have been painting.


Heres the tail. Going to continue the red up the tail once I attach the rudder.



Leaving the elevator full red. Rudder will be red white and blue too.

John_M_

Nice sharp paint lines on the tail, shame you missed the tape on the red part of the wing... I would try adding the tape on those areas of the wing and see if you can remove most of the unwanted red with the wet n dry... after you restore the white, you may have to re-tape and paint the red again to get your sharp line back over the white... I know Birds good with this stuff, he may have a better suggestion



.John M,

bigbird3

Remember Larscato, the cub cowl doesn't offer much intake and outlet for air flow. Heat will fry the engine. fifty-fifty! aye? Just fly the nice side to the crowd all the time!
bird.

bigbird3

Try at the vinyl graphics place. The stuff they use is really thin now and stays put nicely.
Also, when taping off for painting, use Frog Tape, It has a formula that will instantly cauterize when liquid hits it. I usually take a damp rag and wipe the tape to set it off and then paint. When crossing tape over tape, lay a piece on glass and cut a strait edge with the blade at an angle, this way when you cross over that edge it will transition without a void at the intersection and no bleeding! Hope this helps.
bird.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'm a firm believer in giving the tape a coat of the base color and then applying the secondary color after it dries.

bigbird3

Not necessary with the frog tape I promise. Look at my pawnee in my gallery. It will not bleed! Make it simple!
bird.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I got to say the photos are great! What kind of paint and primer did you use? How many coats? Did you fiberglass the airplane first?

John_M_

Bird, basically as I understand it, he applied his red color over his white basecoat thinking he had masked off his graphics properly, but then after applying the red paint , he realized he forgot to mask his red areas off .

I think what acdii needs help with is fixing his boo boo where he FORGOT to place his masking tape to define the edge or broader of his red color on the wing... now he has this uneven red brush marks into the white area where it shouldn't be... he needs advice on how to fix it... I suggested he place his tape where he wants the red edge or boarder to be... that will show how much of the unwanted red color has gone into the white areas... then he could carefully remove the red with some wet / dry sand paper and then apply a light coat of clear over that area to stop any of the red he may have missed or can't remove completely from bleeding into the white paint as he re-applies the white to cover over his boo boo.



John M,

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Are there any options for Scale Cub undercarriages besides Robart? They seem mighty expensive for what you're getting. I remember that there was talk of another supplier but I think that he went belly-up. Any suggestions???

Thanks,

Bob

John_M_

Plus the fact the robart gear is no where near scale in its width fore and aft.

You can try contacting this guy from rc groups forum, or you can purchase a replacement gear set from horizon hobbies for their 1/4 scale cubs... the quality is not as good as robart's, but they're only half the price plus shipping.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1960825



***Edit***

Here's another site

http://www.cublandinggear.com/




John M,

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for that, John_M... so you're telling me that the Robart gear is not scale??? Is it off by a lot or a little?? And, in fairness, I'm not making a Museum Scale plane anyway but I'd still like to get a feel for who has the most scale-like gear

Thanks

Bob

Cub Flyer Fresno

You know, I wasn't going for a "museum" piece either and I was quite happy with the Robart, except for the price. Here are a couple of shots of mine with the real thing. I don't have Cub Man's covers on yet in these photos.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I feel real special today. Our new club sign was put up at our field and to my surprise a picture of my 40% Clipped Wing Cub is featured on the sign.

John_M_

N1EDM, if you look at one of the robart landing gear arms with the two pivot points that mount to the brackets on the bottom of the fuse; basically look at one side of the landing gear... center to center between those pivot points 25% scale, should be 5 3/8" inches... the full sized cub landing gear is 21.5" inches between those pivot points center to center 25% of that is 5 3/8"... robarts is 4 5/8" inches on their 1/4 scale cub gear... it's not real noticeable, but it becomes obvious... the gear looks great otherwise... their 1/5 gear is correct, haven't checked their 1/3 scale... the 1/4 super cub I just got from H9, their gear is correct.

I added the robart gear and the H9 cub wing struts to my Sig cub... I went ahead and mounted the gear first, mortised the mounting brackets into the bottom of the fuse... the wing struts worked out great, but I put the robart gear in the same location where sig had their gear... the rear gear mount ended up 3/4" of an inch forward of the wing strut mounts on the fuse... sigs wing strut geometry is correct for scale... because I had already mounted the robart gear, it was too much work to widen the gear fore and aft. so I just went ahead a redid the wing struts and strut mounting brackets on the fuse to meet at the rear gear mount... it involved cutting the wing struts and redoing the threaded ends... I maybe over zealous trying to make it look scale, but that was, and still is my goal... its not exact by any means, but I wanted it to be dimensionally correct as close as it could be (except that gear, lol)... if I had put the H9 landing gear on, everything would have worked out; pretty much plug n' play, except the strut mounts in the wings had to be reworked of course... I'm over most of the hurdles now, I just need to focus on the door.





John M,

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have Robart Gear on my SIG 1/5th scale Cub and I am very happy with the look. I wasn't going for super scale I even used Bright Yellow because I can't stand Cub yellow. My ownly complaint is the life span of the "O" rings, I change them often and buy they from an industrial gasket company on the cheap.

acdii

Thanks for the tips. Since I have to repaint the white to match the gloss of the red and blue, I will wind up remasking anyways. I used Testors trim tape for the fuse and tail, made a really nice sharp line. I have used Frog tape before and was not entirely impressed with the line it left, it was a little jagged. My biggest concern its the bleed through since its Dope. the white will soften the red and pull it through even if I sand it. I was wondering if a coat of clear over the top will help prevent it. That reminds me I still need to pick up a couple more fine wide brushes. The artists brushes I used are doing great, but I only have 2 wide ones, and need one more for the blue. No matter how well I clean them, some color is still left behind to bleed into the other one. With any luck I will have the Cub painting finished this upcoming 3 day weekend.

John_M_

Yes the robart gear is well made and looks nice... my only concern was the width; if they had made the width fore and aft to scale (everything else about the gear is in scale) it would have bolted right up in place with the rear pivot mounts right over the wing strut mounts on the fuse... but with it's current design width, if anyone who has built a sig cub and wants to upgrade to the robart gear, when bolted up in place the rear gear pivot mount will be 3/4" forward of the wing strut mount, which looks odd... and if you try moving the entire landing gear back so the gear rear mount is over the strut mount, it looks even more strange... maybe I'm being hypercritical of the term "scale"... but hangar 9 got it right !!... I know the sig cub is "standoff scale" meaning its not constructed to exact scale, but believe it or not, their placement of the various details like the wing strut mount location, landing gear position (not construction) is within scale dimensions... like I said earlier, the hangar 9 gear fits the 1/4 sig cub kit without having to redo the wing struts, which makes adding the scale gear to any already built cub a breeze without having to make major modifications (unless you don't mind having the wing strut mount and rear gear mount separated by 3/4" of an inch)... other than that lol, its a great product.


I got rid of the o-rings, and made my own bungees using 1/8-3/16" shock cord from home depot; basically I bought a bag of small bungee cords and cut the the metal hooks off and made loops at the ends and bound it with some stainless steel bail wire (or safety wire)... make one long bungee and weave it back and forth between the four pegs... just have to keep adjusting the length until you get the right tension for the weight of the aircraft.


acdii any chance you can try removing the unwanted red with some dope thinner, or is that going to just make a mess of it?... I think the clear will act as a block to stop any bleed through, as long as you don't get too heavy with the white; several light coats with plenty of drying time between coats should do the trick.




John M,

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for all of the information above. I've been digging into this and other build threads to learn from you all.

Thanks a lot!

Bob

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

I got rid of the o-rings, and made my own bungees using 1/8-3/16" shock chord from home depot; basically I bought a bag of small bungee chords and cut the the metal hooks off and made loops at the ends and bound it with some stainless steel bail wire (or safety wire)... make one long bungee and weave it back and forth between the four pegs... just have to keep adjusting the length until you get the right tension for the weight of the aircraft.


Just an FYI - those work good but you can also find rolls of the shock cord sometimes at ARMY Surplus stores or Camping Equipment stores. You can buy it in different thickness and in any length you need.

Keith

John_M_

Ok thanks Keith... I'll look in to that, may work out cheaper in the long run... the quality of bungees I get from home depot aren't too bad... we haven't had one break yet, but I put a short section of 200lb test fishing leader wire across the center brace and anchored to one of the pegs either side, with enough slack to act as a strain relief... unfortunately I can't put the fishing leader on the H9 super cub gear, in fear of the small M3 nuts may get torn off... I don't think they're man enough to take the strain on a hard landing... I could take the fishing leader down to the axles, but we'll see if it becomes necessary.


John M,