***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
#2876
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (50)
Dont think you have a hanger 9 cub. I'm wanting to say it might be a world models, or another one of the china comp that I cant think of the name at this time. Yep I have a brain fart...... Sorry guys.... LOL
Well, here are some pics of my recently acquired Fabric covered H9 1/4 J3 showing the wing joiner system, the landing gear, and the tailgear. I have not seen these layouts before, so can anyone identify how old this is? Can anyone say whether the current windscreen will fit this plane? Does anyone need any dimensions or more detail of this particular J3?
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187, Sig 1/4 J3, GB Anniv Cub, H9 1/4 J3(original)
Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96, Kadet Mk11, Kadet Junior, 100 inch LT40 clone (Kougar)
Saito Club #635, FA 56, FA 100, FA 120abc, FA 130t, FA 180
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187, Sig 1/4 J3, GB Anniv Cub, H9 1/4 J3(original)
Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96, Kadet Mk11, Kadet Junior, 100 inch LT40 clone (Kougar)
Saito Club #635, FA 56, FA 100, FA 120abc, FA 130t, FA 180
#2877
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (50)
We have a guy in the club that has a 1/3 ( i think it is) scale and has a 3 cylinder satio on it. it looks and sounds good in the air.
I have one or two questions on cubs (not the baseball ones) I have a 1/4 size clipped wing cub and I have thought I'd like to do a build of the J3P model and use my Saito 170 R3. So the first question is are there any 3 views around of the J3P Cub. The second Question is has any one out there made the same aircraft.
#2878
I had my 170R3 on a clipped wing a few years ago. It ended up too heavy and too close to the firewall to look correct. The Lenepe was a small engine. I had better luck with a Saito 50 and two dummy cylinders on a Goldberg Cub. The One flying J-3P lives in Maryland, I ma be able to get some photos if that would help.
Ray
Ray
I'm still in the research stage but I do have a motor that needs an aircraft that will show off this great engine. As for photos this thread is in need of some good usable photos of the J3P,I sure all would love to see them Yours Paul T
#2879
Cub Man I would love to see more of that cub and find out for sure the size as that is what I'm aiming at.Can you get your camera near it in the near future.
#2880
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187, Sig 1/4 J3, GB Anniv Cub, (?) 1/4 J3
Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96, Kadet Mk11, Kadet Junior, 100 inch LT40 clone (Liftmaster))
Saito Club #635, FA 56, FA 100, FA 120abc, FA 130t, FA 180
#2882
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (50)
Guys 6 shirts sold........ 14 away from an order......, if we order more then 20 the price will go down and I will issue a refund thru paypal for the difference. Dont have papal, you can still order and process as a non paypal user of send me a good old check.
Yes I could have gotten a little cheaper shirt, but I have had cheap shirts that after the second time you have it on, the next time your throw it in the rag bag.
Yes I could have gotten a little cheaper shirt, but I have had cheap shirts that after the second time you have it on, the next time your throw it in the rag bag.
#2883
My Feedback: (1)
Spaceworm, Let me chime in on your 1/4 scale J-3. I have one just like it, Solertex Cub yellow cloth covered ARF, 100" W.S.,, two flat aluminum stock wing mount bars, and it even has a similar Robert Main gear though they were originally supplied with a dural type main gear. I purchased mine 2 1/2 yrs ago, used, at the Perry Georgia swap meet. It was sold to me as being a Hanger 9 Cub and I believe that to be correct. I believe it and your's to be a very early version of their 100' 1/4 scale Cub, 2 versions older then the current one. I don't think they built many with the flat alum. bars for the wing brace as I have only ever seen one other example like ours and that was also stated to be a Hanger 9. Much more common are the 100" versions with a more normal round alum. wing tube, then of course the new current version. BTY nothing from the current 1/4 scale Cub will fit our old 100" as everything is a little smaller on ours. As to your main gear, it looks like a Robert with a repair/modification done to the center of the bungie system. The aluminum plate in the middle is added. Our's are at least 14 yrs. old as this 100" Cub was being sold by Hanger 9 back in 2001 when I started to fly RC. I wanted one but of course wasn't ready at that time as a newbe flyer for a 1/4 scale Cub. Also being sold by hanger 9 at the same time was a 100" 1/4 scale Super Cub. Basically the same airframe with flaps added to the wings, a Super Cub cowl, and a white and red cloth covering job. I have done a light cosmetic restoration (lots of cleaning,a few small covering repairs, cowl repair and paint, rebuilt and painted Robert gear W/ new "O" ring bungies). and powered by a Saito 120 if is GREAT. I love it, well worth the effort and cost to bring it back up to snuff. Do fix it and fly it, they fly very sweet. If you like Cubs, you will like this one! Happy landings
#2884
Thanks again.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187, Sig 1/4 J3, GB Anniv Cub, H9 1/4 J3 (gen 1)
Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96, Kadet Mk11, Kadet Junior, 100 inch LT40 clone (Liftmaster))
Saito Club #635, FA 56, FA 100, FA 120abc, FA 130t, FA 180
#2885
My Feedback: (11)
What soze prop are u using? What max rpm are u getting out of the Saito? Do u have any problems with it installed inverted?
I have an identical Saito that I put in a 1/4 Tiger Moth that has not maidened yet. I put an 18x6 in it got max 8500 out of it but will not push it that far yet
Thanks for any feedback
Rafeek.
#2887
http://www.horizonhobby.com/HAN4580?...FRRqfgodR3sAHg
John M,
#2888
I will be building the Balsa J3 into a wide body Super Cub shortly and having drawn the thrust line through the fuselage while laying out the new drawing of the cowl and fire wall locations and I decided to check the incidence on the wing and stabilizer and found it to be 0 deg. on both, was quite surprised as I expected to find some. There is no mention of it in the build manual , is that normal for a cub model as well as the real plane. Just curious.
Leroy
Leroy
#2889
Leroy, most model Cub kits I've seen have built in incidence on the wing... the 1/4 sig cub for instance, has about 1 degree positive incidence when the horizontal stab is lifted to a level position... that 1 degree is referenced from the flat underside of the wing... but when using an incidence meter like the one from robart through the cord-line of the airfoil, of course you will get a higher reading of 2 - 2.5 degrees... the stab incidence is fixed, and is usually referenced from the thrust line on the models..
The full scale cub has about 2 degrees positive incidence at the wing root... not sure if that is measured through the cord-line or from the flat bottom of the wing... and has about -2 degrees washout at the wing tips... the rigging procedure is unique to say the least... the horizontal stab is attached to a jack screw and has an adjustable incidence that ranges from +2 degrees to -4 degrees.
From what I read, with a flat bottom airfoil, the lift falls off as the wing incidence nears -3 / -4 degrees, so even with 0 incidence on the wing and stab, the wing is still lifting, but it will have more penetration... its possible that balsaUSA designed it that way to reduce the tenancy to balloon as power is applied... the sig 1/4 cub flies very well with its design setup with the built in wing incidence, but I will mention again back a few posts, when we discussed the engine thrust angles... with -2 degrees down thrust on the engine, cancels out any ballooning effect produced by the positive incidence of the wing
I'm no aerodynamicist, so I could be blowing smoke for all I know
Here's some info on incidence, it looks like it has to do more with the flying attitude of the aircraft in relation to the airfoil incidence, than having any adverse affect on lift.
http://www.flyingmag.com/pilots-plac...wing-incidence
John M,
The full scale cub has about 2 degrees positive incidence at the wing root... not sure if that is measured through the cord-line or from the flat bottom of the wing... and has about -2 degrees washout at the wing tips... the rigging procedure is unique to say the least... the horizontal stab is attached to a jack screw and has an adjustable incidence that ranges from +2 degrees to -4 degrees.
From what I read, with a flat bottom airfoil, the lift falls off as the wing incidence nears -3 / -4 degrees, so even with 0 incidence on the wing and stab, the wing is still lifting, but it will have more penetration... its possible that balsaUSA designed it that way to reduce the tenancy to balloon as power is applied... the sig 1/4 cub flies very well with its design setup with the built in wing incidence, but I will mention again back a few posts, when we discussed the engine thrust angles... with -2 degrees down thrust on the engine, cancels out any ballooning effect produced by the positive incidence of the wing
I'm no aerodynamicist, so I could be blowing smoke for all I know
Here's some info on incidence, it looks like it has to do more with the flying attitude of the aircraft in relation to the airfoil incidence, than having any adverse affect on lift.
http://www.flyingmag.com/pilots-plac...wing-incidence
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 10-24-2014 at 06:36 PM.
#2890
I have the red and white hangar 9 100" super cub. It has some type of white plastic landing gear on it. Is this the original gear? Would like to replace the windshield, cowl and landing gear. I picked this up a few months ago the guy said it was ready to fly. After going over it I found a bunch of stuff I had to fix but it's ready to fly now. It has a g26 on it. Would like a 4 stroke glow but the g26 will work for now.
Last edited by smkrcflyer; 10-24-2014 at 07:34 PM.
#2891
My Feedback: (1)
smkrcflyer, Your plastic main gear (likely a fiberglass DuBro or similar type) is not original to your Super Cub. Hanger 9 supplied a dural aluminum type main gear with both the J-3 and the Super cub 100" Cubs. spaceworn, I see no cowl with your Cub. It looks like someone has added wooden extensions in the side cowl cheek area and likley had a wider Super Cub style cowl on it. See smkrcflyer's plane in the above post to see the Super Cub version. In your restoration you could go with the super Cub cowl or remove the wooden additions and return it to J-3 cub style. Both cowls are available from one of the fiberglass parts suppliers, maybe Fiberglass Specialties not sure.Just watch for the 100" spec as you shop.
Last edited by 52larry52; 10-24-2014 at 08:22 PM.
#2892
John M you sure know your planes, The Balsa plans call for 1 deg. down thrust and 2 deg. right thrust to address ballooning I think. With a larger prop it may even need more but will determine that during flight tests after it's built, I will stick with the plans for now on the engine mounting, it's a starting point anyway. The wide body Super Cub fuselage is 2" longer than the standard ones, I think the 165 HP engine is the reason and I'm adding 1/2" to the nose length which will help the balancing also. Fuselage will be scale at 68&1/2" long. It's going to be fun building this bird, I don't know how far others have gone scaling out the Balsa kit into a scale Super cub to the degree I'm striving for, I hope you'll join me when I get going.
Leroy
Leroy
#2893
smkrcflyer, thank you for the image of your plane; we know of three of the 100 inch H9 Cubs, now. 52larry52; thanks for the information. My Cub does have a fiberglass Super Cub cowl fitted. Was the original SC cowl fiberglass? I am debating fitting a J3 cowl, but the side mounted YS engine would require cutting away so much of it. Thinking of inverting the YS for a cleaner install of the J3 cowl.. Anyone know how the YS F120 runs inverted? Both smkrcflye and I are looking for windscreens;. anyone know of a cowl supplier for this 100 inch H9 Cub/SC?
Thanks again. to both of you.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187, Sig 1/4 J3, GB Anniv Cub, H9 1/4 J3 (gen 1)
Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96, Kadet Mk11, Kadet Junior, 100 inch LT40 clone (Liftmaster))
Saito Club #635, FA 56, FA 100, FA 120abc, FA 130t, FA 180
Thanks again. to both of you.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187, Sig 1/4 J3, GB Anniv Cub, H9 1/4 J3 (gen 1)
Sig Kadet Brotherhood #96, Kadet Mk11, Kadet Junior, 100 inch LT40 clone (Liftmaster))
Saito Club #635, FA 56, FA 100, FA 120abc, FA 130t, FA 180
#2894
Senior Member
Sr. Enjoyed watching the clip. As I have an identical plane but with the OS Gemini 160 would like to ocmpare notes.
What soze prop are u using? What max rpm are u getting out of the Saito? Do u have any problems with it installed inverted?
I have an identical Saito that I put in a 1/4 Tiger Moth that has not maidened yet. I put an 18x6 in it got max 8500 out of it but will not push it that far yet
Thanks for any feedback
Rafeek.
What soze prop are u using? What max rpm are u getting out of the Saito? Do u have any problems with it installed inverted?
I have an identical Saito that I put in a 1/4 Tiger Moth that has not maidened yet. I put an 18x6 in it got max 8500 out of it but will not push it that far yet
Thanks for any feedback
Rafeek.
I have a CDI/methanol FA-91 mounted on it but I am lusting after an FA-115 CDI/methanol power plant for added vertical performance when I get the urge to play..
#2895
My cowl is fiberglass. I'm going to try making a windscreen out of flat plastic. I have the Dynaflite Super Cub kit to build that will someday replace the H9 one. I'm might put a Saito 150 on that one. Unless I really like the H9 one and decide to keep it but the covering would need to be replaced.
#2896
My cowl is fiberglass. I'm going to try making a windscreen out of flat plastic. I have the Dynaflite Super Cub kit to build that will someday replace the H9 one. I'm might put a Saito 150 on that one. Unless I really like the H9 one and decide to keep it but the covering would need to be replaced.
I have a Saito 180 that I may convert to gasoline to put on the H9 Cub to reduce the operating costs from the YS 120.
Sincerely, Richard
#2898
My Feedback: (1)
Yes, the hanger 9 100" Cub and Super Cub came with fiberglass cowls. As previously mentioned I have seen both Cowls offered on one of the fiberglass parts suppliers list. Research at Fiberglass Specialties, that's my first guess. I have a brand new OEM Hanger 9 J-3 cowl in my parts bin and there it will stay! NOT FOR SALE, sorry. I "scored" it on an E-bay parts auction a year or so ago and have not seen another one since. Some of these fiberglass suppliers also supply a few windshields, so if you call one for the cowl ask about a windshield too. I too have the Dynaflite Super cub kit "waiting" in the box. I had two of them but gave one to a flying buddy a couple of months ago. I got the second one in a swap out deal and didn't have much money in it so, I told him "Merry Christmas" in June! He is a Cub lover also. It made his day. The plan is for us to each build one this winter, make them similar L-21 military versions and fly them at warbird meets. Winter is almost here and he is still working on a Rascal 40 and I am still working on a Goldberg Skylane 62. We'll see!
#2899
John M you sure know your planes, The Balsa plans call for 1 deg. down thrust and 2 deg. right thrust to address ballooning I think. With a larger prop it may even need more but will determine that during flight tests after it's built, I will stick with the plans for now on the engine mounting, it's a starting point anyway. The wide body Super Cub fuselage is 2" longer than the standard ones, I think the 165 HP engine is the reason and I'm adding 1/2" to the nose length which will help the balancing also. Fuselage will be scale at 68&1/2" long. It's going to be fun building this bird, I don't know how far others have gone scaling out the Balsa kit into a scale Super cub to the degree I'm striving for, I hope you'll join me when I get going.
Leroy
Leroy
I had planned on making the horizontal stab fully functional with a working jack screw, using a modified servo into a winch so I could trim the attitude with it instead of the normal elevator trim... I have a lot of ideas I'd like to implement, but weight being a factor; I could always over come with a bigger engine
John M,
#2900
John as I said before, I'm surprised the stabilizer doesn't have some incidence in it if only one degree, Once the plane is balanced the trim isn't going to change but very little with speed so a jack screw is just added weight in my way of thinking. It's been done on the 1/3 scale where there is more room to work it in, not that practical for a smaller plane that has all the openings to look as if it might.
Will be nice to have you visit my thread when I get going, I keep having these curve balls thrown at me and it's slowing down the start.
Leroy
Will be nice to have you visit my thread when I get going, I keep having these curve balls thrown at me and it's slowing down the start.
Leroy