Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Put a few photos online of the plane unassimbled, the struts for all the old balsa USA and Sig were sticks that you made into struts. I have instructions on my site for making some struts that you make to fit any of the 1/4 scale models.

acdii

Maybe see if the plans are still around, if the guy built it himself. SIG doesn't make the struts, the builder does, but if you give Mike Gretz a shout he should be able to get you what you need to make them. It they are anything like the 1/5th struts, there are aluminum pieces that are drilled and bent, spruce strips for the struts that are cut and shaped, and brass tubing for the middle strut braces that are cut, bent, shaped and drilled.

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

So the front of the super cub has been giving me fits...... Trying to figure the transition from one shape to another without doing a full buildup.

So lets do a little 3 d drawing, something I know very little about.

So know I can build the spacers for the front boot area

As you can see I try to make everything as close to accurate as I can!!!!

acdii

I landed wrong. boo. Skeeters were swarming me so I brought it in for a landing, which was looking pretty good, until one landed on my hand and I relaxed the stick, which caused the Cub to nose down just before it was about to touch, and it bounced, 23 feet up, and without enough room I throttled up to go around and the damn engine quit. Not enough speed to stay up to make it to the tops of the corn, it came down about a foot from the edge of the field and slammed into the base of the corn. So now I have to figure out how to repair the cabin where the wings attach. I also have one tip thats cracked, and the end of the leading edge of the other wing is munched.

Had it not been for the flame out, would have been able to get up and around for another attempt, those damned skeeters were nasty, and I had sprayed myself with cutters, didn't help at all. Going to have to retune that engine once I get the cabin repairs down. I will leave the wing repairs for winter, they just look munched, but are still solid. Looks like I will have to change to a 15 prop to fly at my friends place, with the 8' tall corn, as the 14x8 I have now wont slow it down enough without dropping the idle way down, which I believe is part of the problem, but I can fly it with the 14 at my regular field as there is enough room and no corn to top.

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Acdii If you drop the prop pitch sometimes it will give you a little less pull.

acerc

For a stronger pull, such as out of a hover, one want's more diameter less pitch. If one wants speed, such as a P51, smaller diameter higher pitch. One has to change both, diameter and pitch, to maintain the load on the engine.

SrTelemaster150

I think he means at idle on the landing approach.

A larger diameter prop with less pitch will give both more thrust on the vertical & more braking action on the landing approach. I'm going to run a 15" Prop on my FA-115 in the 1/5 scale J-3. I will use the minimum amount of pitch to keep the static RPM under 10,000. Probably a 15 X 7, maybe a 15 x 6.

acdii

The 14x8 is the right size for the FA100, however, the Cub is so light that its too much, the engine is way over sized for the Cub, so a 14X6 would cause an over rev on the 100. I have flown it with an Evolution 15x8 and it flew the plane just fine, very scale like, but it was a bit, um, slow. LOL The 14.8 is perfect, but not for a short runway with walls all around! Only takes a few minutes to switch props, so I can do that when I get it repaired. Almost done with the repairs, have to paint the roof where the fabric had to be replaced, everything else is repaired. The wings are mainly cosmetic, so I will repair those in the off season.

SrTelemaster150

I was thinking 15 X 6. I had a 15 X 5 on my FA-91 & it worked well, enough speed & good thrust. 15 X 6 on a 100 should be perfect.

acdii

Just checked, it is a 15x6 prop. The pane is almost back together, just need to find a dowel rod for the wing pins, and a little covering around the window. The upper cabin is stronger now than before, which is good and bad, good that I dont have to worry about inverted flight wreaking havoc on it, bad that if I happen to strike a wing again, the damage will be MUCH worse, probably bust up the wing more, or rip the entire cabin apart. So now I have to just decide if I want to do 3D aerobatics with this one, or fly it scale. I know at my friends it will be scale, not enough runway to land on until the corn is gone, but plenty at my other field, and no corn to hit, well as long as I am in the air, and landing that is, there is corn, but its down and to the left, and if I am in that, I sure as heck wasn't landing! LOL

simitar1

My Feedback: (60)

Cub Flyers, I have an older 60 size that I acquired about 2 years ago and damaged a few weeks back. I was told by the guy who sold it to me that is is a Sig kit but the Sig 60 has a 71 inch Wing and this is 76 inches. Did Sig have a 76 inch model???

Any other Kit Mfgs I might check other than GP, theirs is 90"?

simitar1

My Feedback: (60)

Cub Flyers, I have an older 60 size that I acquired about 2 years ago and damaged a few weeks back. I was told by the guy who sold it to me that is is a Sig kit but the Sig 60 has a 71 inch Wing and this is 76 inches. Did Sig have a 76 inch model???

Any other Kit Mfgs I might check other than GP, theirs is 90"?

WacoNut

Check on the Goldberg. I believe it is 76" if I remember correctly. Is the fuse built up from lite ply?

simitar1

My Feedback: (60)

Cub Flyers, I have an older 60 size that I acquired about 2 years ago and damaged a few weeks back. I was told by the guy who sold it to me that is is a Sig kit but the Sig 60 has a 71 inch Wing and this is 76 inches. Did Sig have a 76 inch model???

Any other Kit Mfgs I might check other than GP, theirs is 90"?

Thank You Waco Nut

simitar1

My Feedback: (60)

Thank you I had forgotten Gold Berg, must be getting too old.

simitar1

My Feedback: (60)

Yes it is Lite Ply, a good plane and it has an older but reliable O.S. FS 61 on it. I've had some illness that has kept me from flying for a while and 3rd time back to our field was the first time the Cub was flown in about 15 months. Had gotten back to the sticks with a couple of Tri-gear planes and wanted get back to a Tail dragger, Guess I forgot Cubs can be tricky.

acdii

Mine is flying again!!! What a great flying plane. I found out though, that if those little bolts and nuts at the bottom of the struts aren't 100% tight, they fall off. OOPS. Thought it looked like it had a lot of dihedral. I first flew it with the 14x8 and it took ALL the runway to land, touched down at one end, and hopped halfway down, then near the end I had to nearly ground loop it to stop it. Switched out the prop with the 15x6, lost my nearly unlimited vertical, but it landed like a Cub, little up all the way down, just pulling back a little bit as it slowed until it touched then keep pulling up til the tail was down, and came to a nice stop. When I taxied it back thats when I noticed that the right wing was a wee bit loose. If this was a fresh built plane, that wing for sure would have snapped off, but the repairs from the bad landing has the top of the cabin so solid that it took the stress. If I put a wing tube all the way through, the struts wouldnt be needed. What a pleasure this plane is to fly.

acdii

SIG is a two piece wing, the GP is a one piece wing. If that helps any.

flyerdave

My Feedback: (212)

Just an update on the wing struts for my Sig J3. A guy in our club is a serious cub builder, he has built 3 sig 1/4 scale cubs. He is very precise and builds a beautiful plane. Anyway, he has cut me four pieces of spruce to size for the struts. I ordered a piece of 1/16" aluminum sheet for the attach points and some brass tubing for jury struts.Ran the OS 160 gemini last night that is on the front of the cub. I really want to get this thing in the air.

WacoNut

It sounds like you have a Goldberg Cub on your hands. I have built 3 of them over the years. They build a little heavy but are good flying planes.
Later!!
Anthony

flyerdave

My Feedback: (212)

1/4 scale cub spinner nut.
OS 160 Gemini on the front of my sig 1/4 scale cub. It has the double prop nuts but I want something that looks more scale. I know I could always just remove the stock prop nuts and put on a higley 5/16-24 spinner nut, but that would take away the safety of double lock nuts. Is there a spinner nut out there that has a bolt through the center that could just screw into the jamb nut? Don't know exactly what threads fit the jamb nut. Thanks

John_M_

Flyerdave, go to truturn's web site and order yourself the " TTH-1500-B-CUB " 1 1/2" cub style prop hub... you'll also need the " WA9310 " 1.107" x 12mm steel washer... and the " TT-0520-A " 5/16-24 long jam nut... the WA910 and TT-0520-A make up the adapter kit for the FT-160.

When Fitted it looks just like the original J3 prop hub.

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?keywords=:110&Prop%20Hub&ppinc=1aprophubs110&maxp=30


http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on


http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...0a&ppinc=adapt

You may have to contact Amanda at truturn regarding the WA9310, that is the large steel prop retaining washer designed so the prop hub will fit over the steel washer... safest way to go using their adapters setup, very hi quality products.


John M,

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

flyerdave, Higley sells matching lock nuts for their spinner nuts. I use a lot of the screw on spinner nuts on various size 2 and 4 stroke glo engines (.25 two stroke to 1.20 4 stroke) and in place of a locking nut I use a good shot of blue loctite on the threads. I know that's not as good a real lock nut but I have yet to shed a prop using this method. If you are using a wood prop it is important to retighten the prop nut after a few flights. I have found that when retightening a wood prop it has not been necessary to completely remove the spinner nut to reloctite it but just snug it up and the loctite in there still holds the spinner from coming off. I have even had my Saito 1.20 start backwards with a wooden prop and a loctited on spinner nut and it did not come loose. I kept it at a low RPM as I knew it was going backwards but it did not loosen the prop. Others may poo-poo this method but it does work for me. I don't use the Higley lock nuts cause I never have one when I need one but I do always have blue loctite!

flyerdave

My Feedback: (212)

Thanks for the help.

rafeeki

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks for the perfect and complete specs John. I had been wanting to dig up what I needed for mine but here u r doing this for all of us Cubsters.....

It looks beautiful especially with a Falcon wooden prop with the simulated revits

BTW I get 9-10 mins of flight on my Gemini FT 160 using a 16 oz tank while on foats but longer without, add 4 mins.

Sounds sweet

Rafeek