FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Give CubMan a bit he'll get you a number Pete!

SunDevilPilot

Happy Halloween! (Full scale Cub fun)

http://youtu.be/6MWa_pGJwt4

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Love it!

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Hello hopefully my initiation and hazing won't be to bad into the brotherhood if accepted. A very generous club member basically gave me this kit built 90"span with servos. This is his smallest plane and needed to make space for his 128" span Decathlon and 100" plus Bud Nosen P 51. I have a question I have a Saito 100 I will be using and i am debating on how to install the engine and looking for opinions. I can mount it sideways and the muffler will stick way out to the left or inverted and it will be at the bottom right or my preference some where between sideways and inverted with the muffler exiting the bottom. Let me know what you guys think. Also i hope i dont get banned for saying this but i would really like to do the military version of the cub what do you guys think? I am not sure how easy i can get the N numbers and lighting bolt off the covering is super coverite i have never dealt with this covering before . Any thoughts to leave it as is or should i go for it?

RagwingFan

My Feedback: (31)

My two bits

I would mount sideways. Would be nice to have a curved exhaust elbow like the OS 4 strokes to help tuck muffler inward. I have had a couple inverted 4 strokes and have had issues with reliable running. I know it is done and others successful. Just did not work for me. I am thinking that 100 will be more than enough power for her. No issues here on military scheme. Cubs played an important role, of course most in the L-4 greenhouse configuration. Scheme is your preference. That is what's great about this hobby.

Good luck. I have several cubs, sizes, kit manufacturers etc. Can't beat them.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You might see if you can get a 90 degree adapter to fit this engine. I found one to fit my old FA-80 for an inline Saito. It allowed me to use the stock pipe and have the muffler exit out the bottom with the engine mounted inverted. That said I do have a curved pipe. Mine Cub has CAP decals and N number.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Anyone have any recommendations on how to choose elastic cord to use as a bungie for 1/5th scale Robart gear? I want to dump the O-Ring setup and thought I could pick up some at a fabric store like JoAnn's or Hancock.

pilotbum

Go to the drug store and buy the elastic hair bands girls use in their hair. They're cheap and they're basically a tiny bungee. It takes several of them to do the job but you can add/remove to your liking to achieve the desired stiffness in the gear.

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

p3arljam, I would let convince and ease of engine and muffler fitment be my guide for determining engine mount position, I am also generally not a fan of inverted engines, however I have a Saito 120 mounted inverted in a Rascal 110 and it starts and runs flawlessly even without adding an on board glow system. The only minor hitch is the need to have a "dummy" glo plug in the engine for storage and then changing to the "good run" glo plug as part of the at the field assembly before take off. The storage dummy plug will collect oil and be fouled being right at the lowest point and not what you want for the plug you will fly with. If you decide to mount the engine @ 90 degrees with the Saito head sticking out the right cowl side then you will need just one fax engine for the left cowl side. Either way is just fine. BTY, I am quite sure the Cub you have is a kit built Great Planes J-3 Cub 60 size. I have the 40 size ARF and they are good flyers. As to the military version may I suggest the U.S. Navy NE-1/NE-2 scheme as it retains all the Cub yellow covering with the addition of very early WWII U.S. rondals and "US Navy" in small letters near the rear of the fuselage. I have a 1/5 th scale (83") World models Cub done in this way and it sets it apart from the more common olive drab with invasion stripes look. No need to worry about not having the glass house version as some of the real military versions used in training were the stock windowed type. If you are in need of a cowl get one of the fiberglass replacements from someone like Fiberglass Specialties. Have fun, you will enjoy flying this bird.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

I currently have a 70" Decathlon with an inverted Saito 72 with a 90° adapter with no issues starting or performance. I have an inverted O.S. 91 FX on a 80" Super Sportster which I have to clamp the carb line while I fuel and after the first flight I know longer have to do it. I do have an extra cowl from fiberglass specialties as well and the original is s split cowl for a O.S. twin which my friend kept. If I can find a 90°adapter for this engine I will do the same if not I will mount it sideways and try and find a way to reroute the muffler. Hopefully there will be an easy way to remove the N numbers and lighting bolt.

SrTelemaster150

Mount it inverted with the Saito 90* adapter & the exhaust can exit at the bottom center of the cowl.

SrTelemaster150

HERE YOU GO!

smkrcflyer

I have the Great Planes cub with a Saito 72. Its mounted sideways with the cylinder at 9:00 and the exhaust exits in a good location. This also makes for easy access to the glow plug. Engine runs great never had a problem with it.

acdii

I know this plane, my friend has one. He flies it with an OS 70 on it and he recently rebuilt it after an incident with a slap happy tree that ripped it apart. We played around with the engine position, and basically found that if the engine is mounted inverted without dropping the tank it has a good chance of flooding with a full tank. The FA100 is a much larger engine, and its spray bar sits lower than the OS when inverted, I know, I wanted to invert it in my SIG cub, but it would require dropping the tank floor which was not worth it. With the 100, mount it on the right, with the exhaust pointing down, also put a piece of fuel line on the crank breather and run it out the side by the exhaust, or make a scavenge tube, or you will be cleaning a lot of slime off the belly. If you can find one, use an Evolution 15x6 on it, flies it very scale like at half throttle, with some ooomph at WOT when you feel frisky. Mine is on a 1/5th SIG Cub, and its first flight was with a 14x6, went vertical on take off after about 10 feet, Way too fast a prop for the Cub. A 14x8 MAS gave good performance, but again, too much speed for the Cub. The big difference between the GP and SIG, your has a solid one piece wing that does not require the struts, where the SIG struts are 100% functional. It also has a slightly longer wing, not true scale like the SIG. It will fly real nice with that 100 on the nose.

acdii

I just happened to have a photo of when I mounted it inverted. The tank CL is in the middle of the motor mount, and you can see that the middle of the carb is well below it.



The hole you see on the side of the mount is for the throttle cable when mounted sideways with the throttle arm on the bottom, tank CL is just a few MM below it.

Here is what I mean by a scavenge system. Its on my FG-11 to help pull the goo from the crankcase and keep the inside of the cowl clean.

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

p3arljam, As to removing the lightning bolt and N numbers, they went on with heat so they will come off with heat. Use your covering iron to warm up an end corner area of each item to be removed, pick at the corner with your hobby knife till you get it up and starting to come off, continue to heat the area at the edge as you peal each item off and clean up after with some alcohol. Finding just the right amount of heat to do this is the trick, start low and work the heat up until it starts to work. It's easy.

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

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FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'm with you I like a scavenge system too to help keep the aircraft cleaner! I was shown how to make this system by an old local club member. He flew scale ARFs but added this to everyone of his airplanes. A drill bit is used to form the strap to hold the brass tube and the muffler itself to form the clamp. I prefer using fuel line for most of the distance but your brass tube design would work as well.

acdii

Whats surprising is the muffler doesn't melt the zip tie. I used soft brass 1/8" tubing to this. I like how you did yours, looks cleaner.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks! It's easy enough to build, next time I'll extend the outlet into the exhaust stream a bit more. Fred realy did me a good turn telling me how to make them. He is a good egg and always willing to help another flier. I have seen him in a couple years he may have passed.

Lennyshotgun

[h=2]1/4 scale Sig Cub convert to electric[/h]

Has anyone out there converted a Sig 1/4 scale that can give me some advise. Where to place battery, hatch? did it need nose weight, issues you may have run into, setup, prop size. I plan to put it on floats eventually, do I need more motor?
If not a "Sig" any 1/4 scale cub.
Thanks in advance.
Lenny

acdii

You could probably fly it very well with an E-flite 110 brushless and an 18x6 prop. The battery would go in the area of the fuel tank. You can make a battery tray that slides out, or several of them for spare packs, and use a screw to secure the tray to a mount you add once you get the balance where you need it to be. To get an idea of the battery tray, look up the SIG Something Extra ARF manual, they come with one. A power 90 would also work. They are equal to a 2 stroke, 110 or 90, and the SIG recommends a 90 2 stroke for power. If you are floating it, go for the 110.

Lennyshotgun

Thanks for the comeback.
I have a Tacon 160/245 kv motor that I thought I could use on 10 cells, prob more then I need but I can always throttle back

My main concern is balance. I've done many conversions to electric, and always need to add nose weight, is this true with the Cub. The servos in the fuse are moved to the front (I got the Cub from a friend getting out of the hobby) If I need nose weight I would rather go with bigger batteries, or that 160 motor, if nose weight is not needed I will prob buy a 110.
Whatdaya think?

Lennyshotgun

Thanks for the comeback.
I have a Tacon 160/245 kv motor that I thought I could use on 10 cells, prob more then I need but I can always throttle back

My main concern is balance. I've done many conversions to electric, and always need to add nose weight, is this true with the Cub. The servos in the fuse are moved to the front (I got the Cub from a friend getting out of the hobby) If I need nose weight I would rather go with bigger batteries, or that 160 motor, if nose weight is not needed I will prob buy a 110.
Whatdaya think?

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

Lenny, Don't forget to install a "sound system" that makes good Cub like engine noise.