John_M_

Well I'm only doing 1/4 scale wax right now, but he will have the 3D scan file, so if the 1/4 works out, I can always get a 1/3 scale wax pattern made.

I'll send you Jerry's contact info via a PM


BTW, I call it a trailing arm, term used in the auto industry, but the term horn or fork is more appropriate



John M,

panhandler

One of the last steps I need to complete today is the finish work on the bungee covers.
Also here is a couple pics of the tail wheel.

panhandler

Appreciated John.

John_M_

Ok, so you're doing an early super cub... some of the early super cubs had the 2000 / 3000 series scott tailwheel... but the later SC had the 3200, 3400 series... the 3200,3400 series would be a bit easier to make; Jerry was working on a scale version of the 3200 as well, maybe you can make an inquiry when you contact him.

Thanks for the images with the tape measure, that will come in handy to verify things as I go.


John M,

John_M_

I Just remembered, you are doing a "Static" Piper PA-11 Cub Special... looks like its coming along nicely... you know its not really an aircraft until its been flown, lol .


John M,

panhandler

So true

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Without trying to sound like a smart alec, is the wheel in Post 3825, photo #5 on backwards??

Beautiful airplane.....

Bob

panhandler

Good observation. The plane was pushed into the hanger so the wheel spun around.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for answering... It had looked to me like the tailwheel was hard fixed to the steering bar.... That was my reason for asking...

Bob

SrTelemaster150

There's a J-3 page on FACEBOOK.

MFIGHT43

Hey all! My son and I are just building our first cub together from a Great Planes .40 kit. I have thread going on the build:Father, Son GP .40 Cub build..

Anyways, we are wondering if we may join the BH?

Thanks for your time!

John_M_

Looks like Jerry's tailwheels are modeled after the Scotts / Maule A3-4 / TW-101 tailwheel assembly.





John M,

John_M_

Excellent Mflight43... reminds me of my first build with my farther, way back when free flight was popular... we built a "Mid West Super Sniffer", lot of fun.. and then we got into "control line" which wasn't as interesting to me as the free flight stuff... then RC... great to see father and son bonding together, no better way than with a hobby like this.


John M,

panhandler

Getting into the final phases of the BUSA 1/3 Scale PA-18 converted to a PA-11 build.
This step I was dreading. Tinting the windshield light green. I do not know the material these windshields are made of but it is defiantly not what we are all use to.


First I tried Rit Dye with absolutely no effect. Then moved onto IDye.

This type of IDye will not work either. Zero results.
Then I tried IDeyPoly Kelly Green and whhaaaalaaaa.BUTTTT it turned the windshield blue ;{

I called the manufacturer and talked to the local chemist there. He suggested to try again but after dipping the windshield in the green do a second dip in yellow . Makes sense to me.

This is what I found. Using 2, 5 gallon pails one for each color filled with 4 gallons water and 3 packets of color in each pail.Water temperature is critical. Follow instructions on to packet bring water to a boil then add dye and enhancer, let water cool.Tested scrap pieces at 140 deg. no good warps the plastic . After several attempts found that 120-125 deg. is ideal.
Immersed the windshield in the Kelly Green solution for 4 minutes and yes it turned blue. Then after rinsing submersed in Golden Yellow for 2 minutes.

I am very satisfied with the results.

Hope this helps
Dan

John_M_

That's interesting you had no results with the Rit dye... I had good results using Rit Brown dye on my original build, but that was back when Rit Dye was in a powder, now its a concentrated liquid... I let it soak a good 30-40 minutes, turn out a nice bronze color, it must have something to do with the type of plastic... one thing I noticed about the Rit dye is, it does fade over time, especially when cleaning the windows, the color rubs off... I'll give the IDyePoly a try next time, maybe it will stain the plastic deeper, and won't fade as easily.


Thanks for the tips Dan


John M,

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I remember reading a discussion about dyes a few years ago... the concensus was that the problem was with the material used for the windshield. In other words, different dyes work on different materials. The dyes affect some and not the others. I will look to see if I ever made a copy of the results of that forum.

Bob

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks, this is good information. I have a scratch built project coming up where I made need to dye the windows in the top if I can't find a colored plastic.

On a related subject what type of plastic is best for creating curved windows on a 1/4 scale project?

John_M_

FlyerOKC, I use the clear plastic sheets available through Sig, .030 -.040 for the windshield... they don't state what type of plastic it is, but its not a Acrylic or polycarbonate like plexiglass or Lexan, because it doesn't crack or split... its either a PVC or PETG.



John M,

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

We have a Regal Plastics store here and they have about every kind of plastic under the sun so I thought I might see what I can find there. A few years back I bought a 4' X8' sheet of 3/16" Lexan to use as a storm window over some old 4' X 4' windows that leaked terribly. The price was under $100 so I thought that was cheap storm windows. I was speaking with the salesman then and told me if I needed plastic for my airplanes to come by and check the scrap bin because they mostly just charge a $1 for any size scrap.

Jaybird

The close up pictures of the model winshield looking into the cabin compared to the full size supports my thought that most models regardless of ARF or kit built or scale seem to make the fuselage too wide expecially in the cabin area and from the firewall forward. I'm sure it was done to accomodate actually building the model and fitting all the components in especially on smaller scale planes but the 1/4 scale BUSA kit I have really looks too wide through that area. Maybe its just me but the cowl and engine area on mine looks much too wide compared to a real J-3.

Jaybird

John_M_

Jaybird, the 1/3 scale BUSA Cub kit is more to scale than their 1/4 scale cub is... the sig 1/4 cub kit is closer to scale in those areas than the BUSA 1/4 cub kit is; you can make some changes in those areas as you build to make it more accurate, but as you change one area, then you have to change other areas to keep the perspective correct... both the BUSA and Sig 1/4 scale cub kits are "stand off scale" in design, but the sig 1/4 cub kit lends itself to be easily bashed into a much more scale representation... as with anything you make modifications to, you definitely need to plan ahead and get things sorted out before you start building... apart from the construction method, if you get the exterior dimensions and shape correct, when its covered and finished it will look very close to the full sized cub... the key to making it look exactly scale is in those areas that are visible to the naked eye must be scale dimensionally, i.e, if you see round tubing on the full sized cub, then you need to see the same in the model, in the correct scaled dimensions of course.


John M,

iflyfloats

My Feedback: (1)

Back to the tail wheel, this is what I'm using on my Hangar 9 Super Cub. Not exactly scale but closer than what comes with the model,
it's off the Aeroworks 50cc Carbon Cub. Looks better and works better.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Do any of you use aileron differential and if so what is a good number?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Nice, do they sell it separately? I would like the get the wheel holder off one of these.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Yes Aeroworks sells parts for their kits including tailwheel assemblies. Just give them a phone call. 303-371-4222

Here are some others from Tower you may like as well.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEGCT&P=SM

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLK9&P=SM

http://www.aero-works.net/product/ta...l-5-to-15-lbs/