sebo

I have moved the plane to the garage for priming and painting.
Masked off all areas that need protected from the primer/paint.
all necessary equipment is set up and ready to prime.
one more walk through to be sure I haven't left out anything.....compressor, hose......etc.

sebo

I started priming the plane today...........my thumb is too heavy...........I put so much primer on it that it looked like pancakes loaded with maple syrup..have to let it cure and then sand it back down to the weave......might not be too bad though...any small dings and bumps will be filled and I should get a smoother looking finish when I apply the light coat over it.

sebo

I sanded the "syrup" this evening and it looks pretty good......turned out that, when dry, the runs weren't that bad.....it sanded very easily...
prior to sanding, I let it dry for 24 hours......

TomCrump

Sometimes runs will shrink as the solvents evaporate. I'm glad that you have your problems sanded out.

sebo

the beginning of priming. have to do the other side and the top as well as the other wing.

sebo

Primed the top part of the fuselage and stab.
Had to order more primer part A and B.
I used a whole quart of each.........but fear not, It seems that I primed everything in my garage with over-spray.
The primer that is on the plane is very thin. Sanded with 220 and 320 grit paper. Did most of the sanding with the mouse sander.
I'm going to shoot another thin shot of primer and sand it for it's final sanding before adding the color coat.
Still have to finish priming the wings.

sebo

Still have to prime the bottom of one wing and prime the area that shows when the flaps are down.
It's getting close. The painting has to be done asap because winter is getting ready to set in.....daytime temperatures are in the mid 80 range and at night in the mid sixties...Brrrrrr

TomCrump

Good luck with your paint job. You may have already mentioned it, but what will you use for paint ?

I'm nearly ready to paint a model, too. Night time temps have been in the low 50s, with highs in the upper 60s.

sebo

I am using KlassKote....So far, I like it.

TomCrump

I understand that it is fairly easy to work with and it covers well.

I go a less expensive route. I painted that model, today, using Rustoleum. I'm pleased with the results.

sebo

I've used Rustoleum before but mostly for cowls and plastic parts on smaller planes with good results.
used car auto body paints too.

TomCrump

I used auto paint on my last paint job, a Ryan Brougham. The yellow Vega has Rustoleum.

sebo

I haven't died....just slowing down.
I used 220 grit when sanding the primer...it left lots of scratches. I also had some low spots that needed filled. Used thin bondo...dries in 25 minutes to fill the low spots. Am in the process of sanding the bumps now.....it sands really easily...and starts drying as soon as you apply it. have to work fast to spread it.

sebo

somebody submitted a message saying that social security sucks.....if it can be removed, please do so......I couldn't live without SS.

TomCrump

Tell "somebody" that they can send their SS to me. LOL Like you, I enjoy getting mine.

Is the red "bondo", spot putty, that comes in a tube ?

sebo

Yes. it is the one that comes in a tube............as you can see, I have some big spots that need the putty....
I'm getting so tired of working on this that it has become a chore and I have to force myself to work on it a little at a time daily.
I hope it doesn't kill my desire to build my other kits....I have over twenty to build before I take my last breath.
Thanks for the question....it's good to know that someone is still following this thread.

TomCrump

Spot putty is lacquer based. It works well on our glassed models.

For larger areas, I use a glazing. Some call it "icing". It's a 2 part polyester that sets up fast and sand easily. If you watched the TV Show "American Hot Rod, you may remember that Boyd Coddington's crew used massive amounts of it on there car builds. It works well for filling low spots.

I used both types when I was doing the bodywork on my Lockheed Vega. Neither product seems to add much weight. Most ends up on the shop floor.

I grew tired of all the sanding, too. That's when I brought out my "sanding file" and my pad sander. The work went quickly after that.

I'll post a pic of the sanding file, in case you are not familiar with them. I'll add a couple pics of the Vega, too.

sebo

Please delete the reverse mortgage ad that was stuck in.
Does anyone know how I can delete this garbage?

TomCrump

Ya, but RCU won't like the answer. Other, less obtrusive, websites will like the solution, though.

sebo

Maybe I should just forget about it and finish this thread then post no more....
I really don't like the junk they are having posted to something that I thought was mine (the thread) and proud to share.via RCU.
I'm really disapointed in what RCU is allowing.
Maybe they are doing it to get additional monies from these companies......I don't know.....just feel like my liberties are being taken away by a bunch of crooks.

sebo

Well here I am now...primed and the white paint applied. The blue stuff in the picture of the canopy is liquid masking film being removed from the window. It has served it's job well in protecting the window from the Klass Kote.
next to add trim colors and get the engine running

Had a few runs but sanded them off with 5000 grit sandpaper.

zzwcpj

My Feedback: (17)

Sebo,
You're my hero. You and my friend Bob Antonell are the reason some of us stay in the hobby and aspire to be a 10th of the builder, creators you guys are.

sebo

Thanks for the praise, but the photos don't show the mistakes..or we fix them before we take the pictures.......LOL

zzwcpj

My Feedback: (17)

Seriously SEBO,,,,,,,, from my perspective the only mistakes are those of us who refuse to follow your ways and build, build, build but instead we BUY, BUY, BUY. We appreciate your work so much that the intimidation of even trying to build like you is overwhelming enough to cause us to not even try.

TomCrump

Nice work on the paint. It must feel good to get this part done.