tec319

Hi All,
My plan is to cover (2) 40 size airplanes in koverall and paint. Base Clear coat.
I have used koverall on larger planes in my hanger but none in the 40 size range.I have a GP Extra 300s 40 kit powerd with a magnum FS-52 that i built years ago and love the plane but the goldberg Ultracoat covering at this point really needs to be redone. I would love to redo it with Koverall using the WB-Poly on it and paint it to get ride of all the seams which i HATE.
The other plane is the GP Cap 232 40 size that i plan on putting a Saito 56 in and would like to do the same.
I am a painter by trade so the pastic shrink just bugs me. i'm picky if you know what i mean.

So what i'm asking is have any of you covered 40-50 size sport planes with Koverall , pained , cleared and how did they fly after and will it be to heavy? i'm not looking for 3d.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

My next plane is going to be a Sig Somethin Extra (my third one) covered in Koverall. I'm looking forward to hearing the replies to this one.

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

It'll look great and fly just as good. Just plan your covering so the seams are on the bottom. It can be done and is done all the time. You'll be happier in the long run.

acerc

I use Koverall on my open framed fabric covered type aircraft. I don't believe it add's any significant weight over iron on fabric's such as solartex. It is slightly more than iron on plastic. So if your cautious in application of paint's, you will be fine.

rc-sport

My Feedback: (12)

I covered a GP T-Craft and a Tigerkitten, both 30 size planes in Koverall.

Chip_Mull

My Feedback: (1)

Now try some great paint... www.stits.com

tec319

Thanks for the confirmation guys. i just wanted to make sure it wouldn't be overkill on weight for these 2 planes. I couldn't find in any searches covering these types of planes with this method just plastic shrink. Now back to sanding.

TripleDeucer

My Feedback: (129)

Your paint may come off on your cleaning rag if you use nitro power. I would suggest going electric power.

Lone Star Charles

I have a PT-40 that is covered with Koverall and painted with Brodak dopes. If there is a weight penalty, it is very slight. Being a trainer, it has had its share of training accidents but it has held together where I am certain that the plastic coverings would have failed.

I have a GP Extra 300S that is covered with Stits poly-fiberand painted with the recommended Stits paints (poly-brush, poly-spray, and poly-lite colors). I really do have to say that it is a very nice, well coordinated system. Again, if there is a weightpenalty, it isalmost negligible. The finish has come out great.

Both are nitro powered. Neither have had any of the finish rub off on the cleaning rag.

TripleDeucer

My Feedback: (129)

My Super Cub was finished with Randolph dope over Koverall. The oil residue from the fuel attacks the paint and has ruined the finish on the bottom. The fuel is Powermaster 20/20

Bowmaster

Let your paint cure out for a week before flying and then don't let the fuel and oil set on the plane overnight, clean it off when you're finished flying. I've been using koverall and water base paints for vears and all my planes still look great. I do use 10 percent nitro. Higher nitro could soften the finish.

Dave

TripleDeucer

My Feedback: (129)

The finish had cured for a couple months. I always wipe my planes down with cleaner after every flight.

tec319

Well I'll be putting a urethane 2k clear over it and nitro fuel doesn't bother it. i Have things painted with it over 15 years old and nitro fuel doesn't touch it. matter of fact i have a Dumas .40 DeepVee i painted close to 20 years ago and looks as good today as it did the day i painted it.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Nelson Hobby Specialties paint looks great when applied with a simple foam brush, and is very much fuel-proof.

TomCrump

That's funny. I have glow powered models that are painted. One is 20 years old. It still looks new.

It seems that powering models by eletricity is like a religion to some. They are always trying to push their way on others.

TripleDeucer

My Feedback: (129)

I thought it was kind of odd myself. I have picked allot of brains and get the same answers like you just gave. I called the randolph rep at the factory and was blown off with "our mixing is all computer controled, so you can't be having a problem with our paint". I would just like to find out why its like it is.
I am in no way promoting electric power and do not care for it myself. Just one option to bypass the same headaches I have had with my dope finish.

TomCrump

My guess would be that there was a surface preperation problem.

I haven't used dope for years, () so I can't really comment further.

tec319

Has anyone used the Stewart Systems Ekobond dry glue for fabrics? it's for full size aircraft but the stuff looks like a snap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuJLo...feature=relmfu