abbott915

My Feedback: (1)

I'm starting on the belly pan and when I line up parts 18 and 22, there is a gap between the side panel and the bottom of the wing.

Part 22, (aft belly pan former) is flat across the bottom, and this apparently rests up agains the bottom of the wing, but the bottom of the wing isn't flat, so out at the ends of 22, it's up away from the wing. Therefore, when you put part 18 (belly pan side) onto 22, there is a gap under 18 and the wing. If I say to heck with it and slide 18 down to rest on the wing, at the front end, part 18 is to long.

I've attached a couple pics of the issue.

Thanks!

mesaflyer

If I remember correctly when I built mine, there was a fair amount of "custom" sanding and trimming to make all the belly pan parts fit. Mine is covered in that area now or I would take a pic for you. The main thing you want to do is make sure it is flush with the fuse after it's all built so that there are no ridges. I would guess that you have seen this in the instructions. I know some guys have sheeted their belly pans, but I didn't. Just covered it and it's pretty strong, even after dead stick ripped off the landing gear.
Hope this helps.

SeamusG

915 - I was amazed at how much "tweaking" of the belly pan and stringers that are added to the bottom of the fuse later. Go ahead and finish the necessary steps to mount the wing to the fuse but postpone the "finishing details" of the belly pan bits.

Why? The fuse has exposed stringers and other stuff on the bottom to provide that "scale" look (at a distance). They don't line up straight with the bottom of the wing's belly pan. I was glad that I had a 22" sanding bar with 80 grit to "adjust" things.

Just be comfortable in knowing that the belly pan and fuse stringers are only cosmetic.

LargeScale88

I agree with everyone else.

You won't even notice it when you get the covering on, but if it bothers you that bad then when i have a gap like that I put balsa on one side, then slap some filler in there, and sand it nicely, to get a nice little fillet.

Just a thought, otherwise, I would leave it, its on the bottom where noone will see.

Jason

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

That usually means get out the sand paper from my experience. Epoxy and micro balloons may also come in handy to fill the gap.

abbott915

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks to all that replied. I do appreciate those of youwith experience sharing with usthat are still learning.

The belly pan came out just fine and looks good straight and true.

Drilling and taping the holes was a different story. Not sure what happened, as Iwas really careful about drilling straight and then tapping the hole. Some how it didn't get threaded straight, and I ended up doing what I probably should have done in the first place, and that's using a blind nut.

Put in the blind nut and a couple small adjustments and that part is done.

I see that some people noted they sheeted the belly pan, and Imay go ahead and do that so Ican shape it better than the box look it has now.

Thanks again. I'll post later as Iget closer to completion, and I'll post a completed picture.

mesaflyer

Just remember, if you sheet the belly pan, then you will need to sand down the formers and stringers the thickness of the sheeting (whatever thickness you decide to use, 1/16 maybe?) so that it fits nice and flush. In my opinion, it's just not necessary, but it's your plane. To me, it's just extra weight (wood and glue), although not much. I will say this much, it would undoubtedly be easier to cover if it was sheeted.

And don't worry about getting the threads straight (but the blind nut is a good fix), mine was the same way. On page 27 of the instructions #21 tells you to install the paper tubes for the wing bolts. My kit did not come with the tubes, so I didn't even install them. Turns out that was better, because my thread tapping was a little bit off, but I am still able to screw the bolts in with no problem.

Good luck with your build. Mine has a DLE 20 and is a blast to fly. I'm sure you will enjoy yours.

SeamusG

Standard nylon 1/4x20 bolt heads will not fit down those marvelous tubes - either use provided metal bolts or there are some hex head nylon bolts that are available that will fit nicely.

mesaflyer

Or don't install the tubes. Or buy larger diameter tubes.

SeamusG

There is a benefit to the tubes when using a glow engine mounted with the exhaust exiting on the bottom. Keeps the spooge from getting under that bit of sheeting.