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  1. #151

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Larry, I retired a couple of years ago. You'll need to explain this "flushed with money" thing to me.

    OK, I'm at the point where I'm starting on the fuselage, and the first thing they have you do is laminate the fuselage side pieces. Apparently, my kit came with the "self curling" balsa. Just add glue! I've run into this before building with wood glue. You put as light a coat of glue as possible on one piece, put the two side together, and then watch the piece curl up on itself. Left both (now laminated) fuselage sides to dry overnight between a couple of pieces of plywood and a lot of books, tool boxes, etc. piled on top. Anything I could pile on to try to get them to dry flat. Today I've been turning them over every couple of hours and putting the weights right back on. Think I'm making progress, but there has to be a better way.
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  2. #152
    GaryHarris's Avatar
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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Your retired, no wonder your kicking my butt.

    That's good for me now that your ahead though.
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  3. #153

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Couple of items regarding the fin/rudder. If you take a look at the photo of the plans and then the photo of the fin/rudder I built (second one, by the way) you'll see a couple of differences. First, I didn't like the sparse number of ribs so I added a few. Second, if you're using a Dubro slotting tool you'll find that the way Balsa USA has one of the hinges located (up against the rib) it's impossible to use the tool to cut the slot once the fin/rudder is built. In version two, I left the hinge location and repositioned the rib.





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  4. #154

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Starting on the fuselage. First few basic steps. All the joints needed to be sanded to have the assembly line up with the plans.


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  5. #155

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Just sitting here looking at the above photo. For some reason I didn't have the same reaction when looking at the actual plans. God those are BIG wheels! Looks like a wheelbarrow.
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  6. #156

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Not much for progress today. Once you have the basic fuselage sides built it's a matter of sand, sand, sand, and then no less than 8 to 10 steps to put the two sides together. Then it starts looking like an actual airplane and the build process gets more complicated. Looking forward to it, the challenge is half the enjoyment. By tomorrow night I hope to have basic frame built and photos posted.
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  7. #157

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Got the basic fuse structure framed up today. Had some alignment issues and found that one of the light ply die cut front pieces (what they call the "crutch") was just a bit off and it was throwing the entire structure off. Decided to do it a bit backwards from the way the Balsa USA instruction manual steps you through the process. First I aligned (and spot glued) the back end, got everything square and perfectly vertical, then I positioned and glued in the front ply pieces. Seems to have worked out well, as the structure remained straight and square once finished.









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  8. #158

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    When I sanded the tail post for fit I found it difficult to come up with the exact shape shown on the drawings (you end up with some pretty thin edges back there). I found it easier do less tapering of the ends and glue a small balsa block to the end of the fuse and then sand that to a shape I was happy with. Not saying it should be done that way, just that it worked for me (looks good too, I think).


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  9. #159

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    I'm going to give it a rest for a couple of days (other than trying to decide . . tail skid, tail wheel . . . tail skid, tail wheel). The weather here in central Maryland is looking pretty good for this Saturday (low 60's) and Sunday (near 70) with only 4 to 5 mph winds. Time to put something on overnight charge and get out and play.
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  10. #160

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Decided to go with the tail wheel option. I fly mostly tail draggers and feel pretty comfortable with them. The idea of a skid at our grass field just didn't seem appealing. Modified the tail assembly a bit to accommodate the tail wheel bracket. Rather than glue pieces across the structure as in the manual, I just traced the die cut skid bracket and enlarged it to fit across the entire back section. Should be pretty sturdy. The tail skid supplied by Balsa USA came in at 8 grams. The entire tail wheel bracket/wire/wheel package came in at less than 1/2 that number, so I should be alright as far as not adding any additional weight to the back of the plane.





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  11. #161

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    When I first built my Pup, I was uncomfortable with the tail skid as well.  I opted for a "free wheeling" skid.  I was concerned that it would be difficult to swing the tail around.  As it turns out, my concerns were very unfounded.  Yes, the free wheeling skid made the tail swing around nicely in the grass but when I was at a paved field, it was like the tail was on ice!

    After my altercation with a tree that wasn't where it was supposed to be, I rebuilt it with a scale like wooden skid.  (I also have one on my DR1).  No problem whatsoever.  I do not regret having a fixed skid.

    But no matter.  I am sure you will enjoy your Pup in either case.  Welcome to the club!

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzFXFZa0UyY[/youtube]
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    Chevelle
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  12. #162

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Chevelle, great video, beautiful plane. I can only hope mine comes out close to your build.

    Was thinking about the suggestion made by Larry regarding the wing trailing edges. The solution seemed a bit beyond my skill level, so I did something a tad more straight forward. Measured the space between the ends of the ribs and the end of the trailing edge. Ripped a 1/16" balsa sheet into 5/16" strips and just glued them flat between the ends of the ribs and even with the trailing edge. Should accomplish what I set out to do.


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  13. #163

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    I think that is perhaps the best RC video I have ever seen and the builds aren't bad either!! I like the idea of the 1/16 sheet on the TE and will be doing it that way in the future on a lot of builds.
    Drinking and driving are illegal, why do bars have parking lots
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  14. #164

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Glad the idea of the TE filler was useful. You might consider doing essentially the same thing on sheet wing tips. Although most of them have triangular support pieces glued to the tip rib, I usually cut 3/32" outlines of the wing tips about 3/16" to 1/4" wide and glue them to the top and bottom of the sheet tips. I then cut the triangular support pieces to size so their outside edges are the same height as the outline pieces I've glued on. The triangular support pieces are inset between the root rib and the added outline. Now you can sand the appropriate shape to the tips and the covering will only touch at the root rib, the triangular support pieces, and the outline pieces you've added. The covering will never pucker and will be smooth and even on all of the tip, top and bottom.

    Note to Gary: The other thing I was going to mention was that the bays at the bottom of the "Pup" fuselage are large, open and unsupported. I found it useful, both for strength and handling, to install diagonals in a girder pattern in the open bays along the bottom of the fuselage.

  15. #165

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Beautiful work and great video editing. I envy you your grass field!

    L. Kruse

  16. #166

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    You did it perfectly! You will find that much easier to cover and you will be pleased with the results.

  17. #167
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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Wow a great job of editing, the theme from the natural, I think? I also Have a 1/6 pup half way done, need to get it out and finish it, I had to call them 4 times if memory is correct to order parts missing, they were always good about shipping right away, but i wish they would list things it would make it easier to find them, oh well I need to get it done, the wings and the fuse are done just have to rig things together.......dan

  18. #168

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Larry, thanks for the idea of adding supports to the bottom of the fuselage. As I work on this kit I do find that it is a bit more "delicate" than others I've built (makes my H9 Toledo Special seem like it was built using Home Depot lumber). I've snapped a few of the side cross supports just handling it. Not sure that I shouldn't have gone with balsa sticks for that location somewhat larger then those supplied in the kit.
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  19. #169
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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Morning all. Between Homers building skills and the the suggestions provided, I am now motivated to get back to work on mine. Yall know how it is. Sometimes you have to take a break. []

    Great video Chevelle.
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  20. #170

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    I understand. I found the "Pup" kit very comfortable to build, much like a really large free flight scale model. It requires old-fashioned model building as opposed to carpentry, and if you're not used to a lighter (and more delicate) structure it can make you ham-handed pretty quickly. By and large, I've found the BUSA kits to be nicely engineered with a good balance between weight and required strength. I've attached a couple of photos of two other BUSA kits I've built (please pardon the digression from the "Pup" thread) that are of a bit heavier structure, but nonetheless not overweight. One is the out-of-production "Thunderbug 40" and the other is the "Phaeton II" bipe.
    The "Thunderbug 40", by the way, is currently for sale in on this site as I thin the herd to make room for more stuff!
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  21. #171

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Larry, really great looking planes. I was actually looking at the Phaeton II Bipe as a winter build and almost picked one up from the Balsa folks at Warbirds Over Delaware. Did take your suggestion on bracing the bottom of the Pup. Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing, I always say!


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  22. #172

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    OK, today FRUSTRATION fully settled in. First I need to vent, then I need suggestions.When you get to the part in the manual where you're told to drill the holes for the wing dowels . . . DON'T ! ! !

    Drilling holes in 1/8" lite ply is no fun. Especially, if all you have is a DeWalt drill and DeWalt drill (as in Home Depot) bits. That drill, even at crawl speed takes a bite out of that lite ply in a heartbeat and powers right through to the other side and beyond. Ended up cutting out the entire front end of the bottom center section and redoing it , , , TWICE ! ! !

    In the end I came up with a sequence of steps that achieved the desired results, but it took the better part of the day. I'll make it pretty tomorrow.

    OK, I've vented, now here's the request for suggestions. What drill bits do you guys use that work well with hobby (balsa/lite ply) woods? Can't be what I'm using,







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  23. #173

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    Received a package today from A Main Hobbies. California to Maryland, First Class postage, three days door-to-door. Happiness is replacement tops/caps for Bob Smith (Hobby Town) CA glues.



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  24. #174

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    The diagonals look perfect. I'm trying to see what drilling problems you were having. Judging from the photos, I would say none. The only trick I use to drill Lite Ply is to use a bit intended for metal rather than wood. I guess my bits (Black and Decker) are dull enough, I usually have to be patient to drill through anything substantive!

  25. #175

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    RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.

    I use a copper tube to drill holes in balsa. Take a copper tube that is the proper diameter for the hole you want to cut. Use an exacto blade and sharpen the inside of the tube. The copper can be put in the drill chuck and it cuts clean holes. Don't use a lot of pressure. Let the sharpened tube do the work. I like to have my tubes about 12" long. They are really good for cutting pushrod exit holes because you can cut at a very shallow angle. Use a long wire to push the wood out of the tube and sharpen it after 2-3 cuts.

    For lite ply I like to use pilot point bits/brad point bits. They have a small point on the tip that keeps them centered. They are available at Rockler and Woodcraft. Most importantly they need to be sharp.

    Sorry I don't have a drawing like Minnflyer would have had but I hope that helps. I've been enjoying this build. I have a 1/6 proctor camel that I would love to start but.....


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