BillinIndiana

Since another member hinted that this topic might get several opinions I started a new thread for it.

I'm a newbie looking to do my 1st Kit.. I have it narrowed down to a Sig trainer possible the Kadet Mark II or the Kadet LT 40..

Here is my other post with the suggestions for my 1st kit

www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11186425/tm.htm

Anyways, I have No Idea what to use as a covering? I actually thought the whole plane was wood and it was just sealed and painted.. That's how New I am...LOL

So can I have opinions on what covering would be best for a Beginner? I guess I'm after an realistic look, but still easy to apply and I guess durable and lightweight.. <<< Yea right, I bet I hear someone say..Ha

Thanks, Bill in Indiana

KitBuilder

Ultracote is the easiest of the film type coverings. There's no way to become good at it without practice, so don't get frustrated if your first plane doesn't come out nice. Chances are it's going to get banged up a bit anyways. If you have someone close by or a club that can assist.....that greatly reduces the learning curve.

SeamusG

I've used Ultracote exclusively during my 5 years in the hobby, mostly building with an occasional ARF (which all happen to use Ultracote).

It stretches-n-shrinks very easily. Today I looked closely at a plane covered by a 30 year expert. I wonder if we use this great feature too much at the expense of a nice tight covering.

I like that Ultracote is a 2-layer film with the outer layer providing color and sealant while the inner layer is clear adhesive. If you have a screw up that requires repair, removal of the film color is fairly easy. Monokote embeds the pigment in the adhesive with a clear outer layer. When it is removed it leaves a lot of color pigment on the underlying wood making recovering more problematic.

Ultracote scratches fairly easily - so diligent use of iron "socks" is very good practice.

No matter what product you chose, practice, practice, practice and be patient.

BillinIndiana

Thanks Kitbuilder... I will not settle for anything less than perfect...Ha, probably setting myself up for a disappointment huh?

I've never seen Ultracote or handled it. What is it similiar to? Like say the clear packaging plastic on store mechandise or something like that? I know I could run to my LHS and check some out, but I was just curious?

acdii

Ultracote too from me. I started out with Monokote, did my Kadet LT40 in it and it was a pain to get it right, did not shrink well in some areas, the white did, but the blue did not, the red somewhat better than the blue. The yellow so-so. 

BillinIndiana

I'll have to look into how the Ultracote is applied? I went to the LHS today and a young guy said something about "Dope" ? Seems you all are talking about a heat gun method or something? Not sure what the iron "Socks" are?

carrellh

Covering Iron http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ng-iron-HAN135
Socks http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...on-sock-HAN141 or cotton baby socks from walmart
Heat gun http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/heat-gun-HAN100 not as hot as industrial guns

Nice to have
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ng-tool-HAN145 for tight corners
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...g-glove-HAN150 protects hand
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBN36&P=0 I bought this but have not tried it
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL791&P=0 for trimming edges. I bought this but have not tried it

BillinIndiana

Thanks for taking the time to look up those links for me.. Now that I know what you guys are talking tool-wise I'll look up some Youtube vids of people actually applying it.

carrellh

This article has several videos of applying film covering
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=726

wickedpissa

My Feedback: (1)

Please I really do not want to start another mono vs ultra debate, but as you stated that you are a newbie I will recommend ultra as it is more "user friendly" than mono, I personally use mono for the reason that I do not like the way ultra is semitransparent compared to mono. there is a learning curve to mono but practice you get better results every time, at least I did and I am now at the point where my projects are comming out pretty good. Still need more practice on the compound curve,

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

hi bill

welcome to the world of building and flying, not much building today with the arfs.
the Kadet is a great, good flying model , which you will be very happy with. for your
first flights get help of a local flyer to get the plane properly trimmed for easy flying.
do not try it by yourself.
a good way to start is to buy an arf like the avistar 60, a good size, and good flyer easily
assembled in a short time to get you in the air sooner.
then you can be building your second plane while learning to fly.
the arf are ok, they get you in the air sooner but I personally like to build and fly what
I build

good luck and happy flying

pt19 flyer joe

GaryHarris

Also consider Solartex.

BillinIndiana

Thanks for all the recommendations. I went to my LHS yesterday and looked and held some of the Ultracote or maybe it was Monocote? Anyways I wasn't there to Buy, I just wasn't real sure what the material felt like. I've just been looking at pictures and it looks almost like a hard plastic covering, at least to me anyways. 

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

For what ever it is worth I have been gluing sticks together for the pas 35 years and have covered all of them for that 35 plus years with Monokote. I am now building the second or third sky tiger and for the first time I am using Ultra Coat. This is the first bird I have covered withoout a single wrinkle. Instructions call for 2 irons, one cool for applyig and the second hot for final ironing. Although it is a couple bucks higher per roll, it is well worth it. My only objections is the color appears to be thiner than MonoKote because I can see the sticks through it. I am however sold!!

carrellh

I put zip code 46750 in the search box at http://www.modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx and there are 2 chartered clubs within 25 miles, and 21 within 50 miles.

If a phone number is listed, that's the way I'd initiate contact. People tend to change email addresses, but usually keep their phone number forever.

LargeScale88

For a long lasting durable covering that you can paint to your liking but is ALOT of work, I would maybe take a shot at Sig koverall and dope. Thats how the full scale airplanes are covered (cloth covered airplanes that is) and its a tried and true process that works. Depending on how much work you want to put in and what type of finish you want, this covering is very rewarding when you are done, but it may not be the best for a beginner, but hey, you have to learn somehow.

Covered at least 5 airplanes in koverall 10+ years ago, starting to use it again.

Jason

BillinIndiana

Hey Thanks, There's one that isn't to far from me.

fun2fly24

monocote

BillinIndiana

Lowvoltage

Bill,
You seem like you would be up to the task for using koverall. It is easier to apply than monocote or Ultracoat. But, you have to apply dope; first nitrate to put the fabric on and seal, and then butaryte to put the color on. it repairs easy and is more durable than any of the plastic coverings. Years from now it will still be tight. There is a learning process, but you get a great deal of satisfaction after the job is done.
Joe

BillinIndiana

Say I want smaller detail with a different color, would I just put on my Base color covering the whole wing for example. Then apply the small pieces of my sceondary color right on top of the Base making it two-ply in thoughs areas? Say like Letters or Numbers etc..

SeamusG

Yup. Some chose to outsource the cutting and even pick up stickers.

You just need to go slow when sealing the trim pieces to the base color to avoid trapping air bubbles between the trim and base. I use a new X-acto #11 blade slipped into the side of the base of the occasional bubble. Some mark the perimeter of the trim and then stick (word used to have a pr at the front but that got censored)holes into the base with small "T" pins or fine tipped needles. Depending on the transparency of the trim film you may or may not see the underlying holes.

BillinIndiana

Oh so the P ricked holes give the second piece of covering something to grab to, right?

SeamusG

Nope - the holes give the hot air some place to escape to. When you heat film to the point where it will shrink and really kick up the luster of film (270 - 300 degrees) the air expands creating bubbles if it doesn't have some place to go. If you are covering over an open structure (e.g. wing ribs) it's simple to see that the air can expand without creating bubbles.

BillinIndiana

OK, I get what ya mean there.