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Sig Ryan STA

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Old 01-16-2013, 03:17 AM
  #901
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Vincent I use vinyl tape to lay out the paint line then I mask about 1/2 inch off that with regular masking tape. I spray in between with the two with the liquid masking film, usually three coats, then pull the vinyl tape off and let the masking film dry. Peeling it off is similar to peeling wood glue off your fingers when dried, just knurl it right off.  Because it is a liquid when applied it leaves a super crisp line with no bleed under.
  Anyplace that carries hobby supplies should have it in one brand or another.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:36 AM
  #902
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Thanks for the explination Robert, I'll give it a try. Can it be brushed on with the same results?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:58 AM
  #903
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Yes it can and it is actually a little better brushed on, thicker and easier to peel. I'm just a cheap skate and want to get as much use as possible.
There is one major advantage, for me anyway, it does not leave a sticky residue behind. I have not found a tape yet that does not leave a little of it's adhesive on the airframe. But I use the dope type paints, something like latex or other water based paints the adhesive may not stay behind.

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Old 01-16-2013, 06:18 AM
  #904
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: VincentJ

...school here just got cancelled so I'm glad I brought my fuse home last night. I'll be in my workshop as well! (Expecting 2-4 inches here) Let's get some work done....
So.Jealous.

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Old 01-16-2013, 07:09 AM
  #905
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Ask and you will receive. The finished look. Do you still have kids at home? Mine are grown so Ihave to go to work no matter the weather.The liquid nmask is great stuff for painting canopies that have frames moulded in like a warbird or for doing markings, I bought mine at a local art store but try a craft store also like ACMoore.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:35 AM
  #906
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Well that looks pretty good! No, I don't have any children of my own. So I am able to do what I please for the most part. I have been fortunatethat when the weather is bad I don't have to go to work. I feel for those that do. It was nice to stay home and work in the workshop...
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:02 AM
  #907
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Fuse is all taped offfor the final panel lines which will get sprayed tomorrow at work.

Shifting my attention to the rudder, specifically the plastic rudder cones that go on the lower halves of the rudder. Initially I had no intention on using them, but I may have changed my mind. I was able to fit them and conceal the pull-pull horns nicely. What I don't like about these cones is that they limit the amount of rudder the plane will have. I may purposely add more of a hinge gap between the rudder and fin to get a bit more deflection. From what I can tell in the photos that I have the gap between the fin and rudder are large anyway. I'll try it, I can always remove it if it dosen't work out.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:24 AM
  #908
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Gee VJ, I'm glad you posted that last photo.  It made me think of my Cub and how much gap I want on the control surfaces.  Hmmm....

By the way, that looks really good!  Keep it!

Stay warm,
David
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:26 AM
  #909
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

I vote that you use them ! I think they are a large part of the Ryan's caracter !

Regards, Don
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:00 AM
  #910
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

It seems like you will have a lot of rudder travel with size horn. The SIG "spec sheet" that has been posted several times reads 1/2" rudder left and right. That seems like very little for a model but that could be increased fairly easily. I would think you'd want to conceal the rudder controls as on the full scale (I think) and mount them inside those covers. That way both the elevator and rudder cables are hidden. The pushrod setup on the the one I bought gives plenty of rudder and tailwheel throw with a horn that will just fit inside the side covers. See the last picture in post #686. Just my opinion of course, but it seems a shame to have those large controls horns hanging out when they could be covered up.

Sorry,

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Old 01-16-2013, 11:09 AM
  #911
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

+1 on that. My GPRyan has the horns hidden in the shrouds and it looks good.I'll se if I can post a picture later as I'm at work now. Well some of us have to go and support the govt.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:42 AM
  #912
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Negative on the horns inside of the cone. The length of the horns on there now have not been trimmed to proper length so it will be a lot shorter.This is a pull-pull systemsothe stock location of therudder contol was scrapped long ago. I want easy access to the clevis' if need be as well.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:55 PM
  #913
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA



Few days ago Anthony (Waconut) had suggestedfor me tomake rivets from aluminum soda cans so I decided to try my hand at it. I took a piece of 4-40 rod and ground one end to profile the dome shape ofa rivet. After sliceing open a Coke canI used a hammer and started to punch out these tiny rivets. As suggested this should be done over some firm rubber which I need to get from the hardware store.The end resultare some pretty nice facsimiles of rivet heads. This is going to take me a while....

Note: If you notice in the first photo where I'm holding the 4-40 rod, you will see a small blood blister where I slipped with the hammer. OUCH!

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Old 01-16-2013, 03:01 PM
  #914
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

If you did not draw blood it does not count. Blisters don't count!
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:24 PM
  #915
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA


Quote:
ORIGINAL: acerc

If you did not draw blood it does not count. Blisters don't count!
Robert I think you are correct, seems to be a little too timid with da hammer doesn't he

VJ,
Those rivets look great. You need to just set a few of them in place on the plane and snap a pic so we can see how they will look.
Anthony
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:02 PM
  #916
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA



Well what do you think, should I use them?

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Old 01-16-2013, 05:06 PM
  #917
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

I think they look great. You cannot get that consistancy in size and or shape with glue. They will really pop once the paint goes on.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:22 PM
  #918
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

I second Anthony's opinion.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:30 PM
  #919
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA


Quote:
ORIGINAL: acerc

I second Anthony's opinion.
About the rivets or the Hammer
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:30 PM
  #920
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Are you kidding VJ?  Go for it!  I'm learning, learning to save money and time.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:39 PM
  #921
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA



Both issues.

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Old 01-16-2013, 06:49 PM
  #922
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Well in case yoou chane your mind about the rudder I'll include some pics of mine. The rivets look cool, only 993 more to go if you don't wear glasses now you will by the time your done. Are'nt you glad we came along for the ride, you might have just done a simple paint job by now and be done with this project
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:45 PM
  #923
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Ok I painted the last of the panel lines and this time when I peeled off the Frog Tape I paid carefull attention if thier was that paint blocker gel under the tapes edge. As you can see there was.

Now I need a little help, I made a comparisonfrom the rivets made from 4-40- rod and rivets punched from 2-56 rod. Which one looks better. To my eye the 2-56 rivets seem more scale for a 1/5 scale plane. Tell me what you think!
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:55 PM
  #924
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

I think the 2-56 looks better as well.
You may wind up needing both sizes. I think I remoember seeing larger and smaller rivets in pics.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:05 PM
  #925
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Default RE: Sig Ryan STA

Like Anthony, I as well like the 2-56 size better. They just look more appropriate.
And the sticky from the Frog tape is why I like the Liquidmask.
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