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Thread: Sig Ryan STA


  1. #951
    WacoNut's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    It must be the temp and humidity changes here in Ohio. We go thru huges changes in temps thru the summer and the humidity goes thru the roof. It may also be the amount of initial heat used to shrink the Solartex. I may have used too much heat? Anyhow I will just stick with what works for me.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  2. #952
    ovationdave's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Since I am a newbie to the fabric covering, can someone outline the steps required to apply it? I assume all of the mentioned fabrics are iron-on, then some have to be filled, some not, then paint. But I am wondering if there are any missing steps in there. I am thinking of doing my first fabric job next winter. I have a Mr. Mulligan, Spacewalker II, and a Brown B-2 Miss Los Angeles, haven't decided which one i will build next fall, but all of those will have one thing in common, fabric covering. Is there a crash-course somwhere that outlines the different methods?

    Thanks.

    P.S. Loving this build thread, thanks again Vincent!

    Dave
    I have not failed. I\'\'\'\'ve just found 10,000 ways that don\'\'\'\'t work - Thomas A. Edison

    Sig Kadet Brotherhood member #18

  3. #953
    WacoNut's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Dave,
    I will give you the short version:
    #1 Solartex is an iron on fabric, you apply it like monokote. You can use it as supplied(color) or you can paint.

    #2 Sig Koveral is a polyester fabric and it very light. It has a failrly loose weave and you have to attach the fabric with either dope or Stix-It. Wth Stix-It you can iron the fabric on. You must then fill the weave of the fabric with either dope or polycrylic to make a solid surface for accepting paint.

    #3 Poly-Fiber Lite uncertified is a lightweight version of the full scale airfraft fabric and is used on Ultra-Lites. It applies in the same method as Sig Koveral and is slightly heavier(thicker fabric). It does however require less coats of dope or polycrylic to fill the weave.

    It all comes down to a matter of preference. All the products will achieve a good finish it is just a matter of how you want to go about it. More than one way to skin a cat.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  4. #954
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Second post of today's progress: In case you don't know how to make clean holes in your work I will show you how. In the first photo, the finhasa hardpoint for the tail brace bracket that needs to be opened up (see arrow). If you have tried opening holes even with a sharp knife you will be less than satisfied with the results. Ditch the knife and buy yourself an inexpensive soldering iron that you will use for this task. After the iron gets up to temperature just touch the tip to the opening and what you will have is a perfectly clean hole. The tip of the iron will need to be wiped clean before proceeding to the next hole.

    Just a brief mention about seam orientation. When you are readyfor covering, try to think about the direction of the seams. Try to get the overlap of your seams so as the plane flys through the air thewind dosen't open them up. Also if possible try toplace seams in a location that will be less visable when the plane is being viewed. Can you see thelogic of why I covered the bottom half of the stabilizer first them covered the top half.
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    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  5. #955
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Third post of today's progress: Having the covering on the tail completed it was time to attatch the rivets. The reason I did the covering before applying the rivets was simple, I thought that once the rivets are down (with soldering iron) it will needed to get a coat of paint down ASAPto hold the rivets. The moving of the fuse while covering I thought would dislodge some rivets.

    As far as the rivets go here is a sample of what they look like down. Each rivet was touched for one or two seconds maximum with the soldering iron. I have no doubt that this will produce the most realistic rivets possible, but it does come with a price, your sanity. Be forewarned!
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    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  6. #956
    WacoNut's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    That is going to look Awesome!!!
    That has me wanting to strip all the glue rivets off my Waco and do them like that. [:@]
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  7. #957
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Very well done!
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
    Corsair Brotherhood #56\\ Waco Brotherhood #184

  8. #958
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    So any magic tips about getting accurate spacing and/or alignment of the rivets? Those look perfectly spaced...well done!

    Dave
    I have not failed. I\'\'\'\'ve just found 10,000 ways that don\'\'\'\'t work - Thomas A. Edison

    Sig Kadet Brotherhood member #18

  9. #959
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Thanks guys! Dave, spacing was done by eye. Picking up these small rivets and getting them in position is challenging to say the least.
    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  10. #960
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Make sure you have someone check on you VJ just to make sure you don't go over the edgelooking way cool. I would just go insane doing that.
    If what you believed to be true was false would you want to know the truth?

    "You shall know the truth, and the truth will set you free".

  11. #961
    ovationdave's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    So do the rivets kind stick to the surface prior to touching with the iron to bond them to the primer? I was just wondering if you had to rotate the model to keep them from sliding around until you could tack them in place......or if you can just push them into the surface so they kind of adhere, then hit them with the iron?

    Wonder if these would help? http://www.micromark.com/pic-n-stick,7467.html

    Dave
    I have not failed. I\'\'\'\'ve just found 10,000 ways that don\'\'\'\'t work - Thomas A. Edison

    Sig Kadet Brotherhood member #18

  12. #962
    VincentJ's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Dave the rivets slide on the surface until you touch the head of them with the soldering iron. The fuse has to be positioned horizontal when applying the rivets.The rivets are so light that they just need to be nudged into place with the tip on an X-acto blade.
    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  13. #963
    WacoNut's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    How are the rivets progressing? Always exciting to see the details come to life.
    We want more pics
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  14. #964
    VincentJ's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    One days worth of rivets...
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    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  15. #965
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Looks really good,
    It will be worth all the work in the end.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  16. #966
    ovationdave's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    That looks amazing. It really makes me think I will have to go to the effort of doing this for my next build, no matter how painful.... :-)

    I just hope by your last rivet they aren't 1" apart....LOL

    ~Dave
    I have not failed. I\'\'\'\'ve just found 10,000 ways that don\'\'\'\'t work - Thomas A. Edison

    Sig Kadet Brotherhood member #18

  17. #967

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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Vinnie, are you flying tomorrow?

  18. #968
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Progress has stopped because I'm out of rivets! Time to make more. First photo shows how I get the rivets out of the tray and into place on the fuse.
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    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  19. #969
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Make sure you take breaks!! Dont want you ending up like this guy!

    Looking really sweet!

    SunDevilPilot
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    SunDevilPilot
    Cub Brotherhood # 47

  20. #970
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Or even worse this guy
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    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  21. #971
    VincentJ's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    LOL you guys are too funny.
    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  22. #972

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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Amazing work VJ !!.You are a Craftsman modeller that's for sure.
    My mate succesfully test flew his Ryan STA today. Big smiles all around !!!
    I will try to include a photo of it in this posting.

  23. #973

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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Sorry, missed the last bus. Hope this works.
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  24. #974
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Welcome back Cavoodle! Big smile over here for your mate as well...Was he happy with how it flew? Loved the photos. How areyou doing with your Ryan?

    Here is the progress I have made with the rivets on day two. I am definitely in a groove and have worked out the nuances getting the rivetsfrom the traytosetting them into position on the plane.
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    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  25. #975
    acerc's Avatar
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    RE: Sig Ryan STA

    Looking great. Lots of patience. If you don't mind, what is the little thingy in this photo?
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
    Corsair Brotherhood #56\\ Waco Brotherhood #184


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