Sig Ryan STA
#1126
RE: Sig Ryan STA
So true ACE so true, but seeing that between my wife and kids we have managed to total 3 cars in 2 yrs I think it's time to sit this dance outEnjoy the show all and maybe just maybe,I'll see you there.
#1127
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
I have that 1/4 Spacewalker under my bench as well, I was thinking that may be my next build, its between that and the Nosen Mr. Mulligan. I have to see since I plan on looking over engines at Toledo this year. I was wondering about an NGH35 as it would fit nicely in the cowl, but I may end up with the OS33 or a DLE 35. Anyone have an NGH?
Oh, I also have a spare Saito 150 I need to use...........
Dave
Oh, I also have a spare Saito 150 I need to use...........
Dave
#1128
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Hey guys, quick question. Anybody use the Robart hinge pockets with the hinges so you can remove the control surfaces if you need to? Thanks, and it looks like I'm going to stay at home this wkend and build on my P-47, the wife is going away for the wkend to see the mother inlaw
#1130
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Sweet! My father-in-law has one in his shop and he won't be using it anymore, he passed away last year. Why don't I have it you ask? Because my wife thinks it will take up too much room in the garage and my mom-in-law hasn't offered it to me yet. I'd feel bad just coming out and asking her for it. I keep hinting to my wife every father's day, birthday, Christmas..... Nada!
#1131
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
Very nice VJ. And it will last a real long time, unless you spread some of that cream cheese on it thinking it's oil. LOL
David I say you should borrow it.
David I say you should borrow it.
#1132
RE: Sig Ryan STA
ORIGINAL: ovationdave
I have that 1/4 Spacewalker under my bench as well, I was thinking that may be my next build, its between that and the Nosen Mr. Mulligan. I have to see since I plan on looking over engines at Toledo this year. I was wondering about an NGH35 as it would fit nicely in the cowl, but I may end up with the OS33 or a DLE 35. Anyone have an NGH?
Oh, I also have a spare Saito 150 I need to use...........
Dave
I have that 1/4 Spacewalker under my bench as well, I was thinking that may be my next build, its between that and the Nosen Mr. Mulligan. I have to see since I plan on looking over engines at Toledo this year. I was wondering about an NGH35 as it would fit nicely in the cowl, but I may end up with the OS33 or a DLE 35. Anyone have an NGH?
Oh, I also have a spare Saito 150 I need to use...........
Dave
#1133
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
ORIGINAL: Cub Flyer Fresno
Dave, I don't want to be hogging VJ's thread here, but I got to ask; Wouldn't a Nosen Mr. Mulligan still in the box be worth something? I don't know and that's why I ask. Does anybody know?
ORIGINAL: ovationdave
I have that 1/4 Spacewalker under my bench as well, I was thinking that may be my next build, its between that and the Nosen Mr. Mulligan. I have to see since I plan on looking over engines at Toledo this year. I was wondering about an NGH35 as it would fit nicely in the cowl, but I may end up with the OS33 or a DLE 35. Anyone have an NGH?
Oh, I also have a spare Saito 150 I need to use...........
Dave
I have that 1/4 Spacewalker under my bench as well, I was thinking that may be my next build, its between that and the Nosen Mr. Mulligan. I have to see since I plan on looking over engines at Toledo this year. I was wondering about an NGH35 as it would fit nicely in the cowl, but I may end up with the OS33 or a DLE 35. Anyone have an NGH?
Oh, I also have a spare Saito 150 I need to use...........
Dave
#1134
RE: Sig Ryan STA
A couple of odd ball comments and then on to something relevent.
Raptureboy-I've used the Robart pockets on a build some years back. They're OK, but the mounting surfaces need to be thick enough to justify putting them in. I probably won't use them again, but that's just me.
Ovationdave-When I have an older collectors kit that has value in the unbuilt stage, I prefer to copy the original kit and build the copy. Then you get the kit to preserve and the plane to build nd fly. It really doesn't take that long with the right tools, like a bandsaw or that fine Drill Press And yes, the Nosen Mr. Mulligan is worth a few bucks, just look at Ebay.
Cubflyer-On that drill press, just ask to come over and use it. They may just take the hint!
Raptureboy-I've used the Robart pockets on a build some years back. They're OK, but the mounting surfaces need to be thick enough to justify putting them in. I probably won't use them again, but that's just me.
Ovationdave-When I have an older collectors kit that has value in the unbuilt stage, I prefer to copy the original kit and build the copy. Then you get the kit to preserve and the plane to build nd fly. It really doesn't take that long with the right tools, like a bandsaw or that fine Drill Press And yes, the Nosen Mr. Mulligan is worth a few bucks, just look at Ebay.
Cubflyer-On that drill press, just ask to come over and use it. They may just take the hint!
#1135
RE: Sig Ryan STA
And now something more Ryan related. I took pitty on one of the Ryan STA brothers here who needed the plastic parts for a scratch build of the Sig kit. I've made plaster molds of the parts from my kit and I'll be pulling parts with my ther****rmer soon. These are just the plastic parts that come with the kit, excluding the wheel pants and cowl, which I'm told are available through Fiberglass Specialties. I don't know if anyone else is in need of the parts but I thought I better throw this out there just in case. Please PM me if you're interested.
#1136
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
FYI. I made copies of all the formers and ribs for the Mulligan and sent them to about 5 or 6 people so far. It will be preserved one way or another. I would suggest you post your last RYAN comment with a clear searchable title if your going to offer up making those plastic parts for anyone searching RCU for a provider of ryan plastic parts. Only so they can locate it.....i can't tell you how many times I read things like that and searched though hundreds of posts to find it again. But its good of you to provide them!
Dave
Dave
#1137
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
I agree with Dave, it needs it's own thread title. Even in my own build threads something will be mentioned and 20-30 pages later I'm going back page by page looking for it.
And a mighty big Thank You for taking pitty on that poor sap. Very kind of you!
And a mighty big Thank You for taking pitty on that poor sap. Very kind of you!
#1138
RE: Sig Ryan STA
ORIGINAL: VincentJ
Sorry Raptureboy can't help you there, I never used them before.
Fed-Ex came to my door today . Now this is a drill press!
Sorry Raptureboy can't help you there, I never used them before.
Fed-Ex came to my door today . Now this is a drill press!
I got the floor standing one and put it onto locking casters. Can just wheel it out of the way when not in use.
Just be careful with it, I use a fence when drilling most parts. Your fingers will not stop that drill if it catches. Be extra careful drilling any metal.
SunDevilPilot
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
Looks like you got a great fit between the cowl and the fuse. Is there a step there or does the edge of the cowl taper to the fuse? It looks like a smooth transition, absolutely beautiful! Nice work, the rivets look great too.......thanks for letting us watch!
Dave
Dave
#1142
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Dave,
The front of the fuse is covered with a small "boot cowl" that rounds the front end of the fuse. The rear of the main cowl is open and ends a few inches in front of the boot cowl (on the full size). The angle of VJs pictures makes in look like a smooth transition between the 2 but there is a gap.
P1 - Gap between cowls on N 48587
The front of the fuse is covered with a small "boot cowl" that rounds the front end of the fuse. The rear of the main cowl is open and ends a few inches in front of the boot cowl (on the full size). The angle of VJs pictures makes in look like a smooth transition between the 2 but there is a gap.
P1 - Gap between cowls on N 48587
#1143
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Thanks Robert and Dave. Robert it will fly but rest assured my knees will be wobbly!
Dave there is a 1/4" gap around the perimeter of the cowl asthe full scale Ryanhad. I made this functional, the air flow that enters through the front front of the cowl will exit through this gap. I'll snap a photo of the gap for you too see better.
Thanks John you beat me too it!
Thanks for the head-up SDP, I'll be sure to be carefull...
Dave there is a 1/4" gap around the perimeter of the cowl asthe full scale Ryanhad. I made this functional, the air flow that enters through the front front of the cowl will exit through this gap. I'll snap a photo of the gap for you too see better.
Thanks John you beat me too it!
Thanks for the head-up SDP, I'll be sure to be carefull...
#1144
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Wobbly knees for sure, and dry mouth, and then when she lifts off all so smooth and makes that first climbing turn and flys hands off it will all be worth itBut if you want to see how some deal with the other side of this hobby check out this thread, I added my own pics of my previous P-47 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11419557 Isure am looking forward to some paint VJ. Ican't believe you started this in Aug. Where does the time go?
#1145
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Good points about the title of the plastic parts redo, Dave and Robert. Admittedly, I'm a better builder than flyer, and apparently poster
VJ, That looks so beautiful!
VJ, That looks so beautiful!
#1146
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
First coat is on and I'm getting ready to spray the second coat. Will post pics tonight. Wish me luck, no room for error with these rivets...
#1147
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Good luck VJ! Take your time, deep breaths (NOT OF THE PAINT THOUGH! You might end up like Robert!) and most importantly, have fun! You'll do fine, no doubt about it!
#1148
RE: Sig Ryan STA
say it with an indian accent; yes my friend take very deep breaths, the secret to krishna painting is to become one with thepaint, feel yourself flowing with the paint ohmmmmmmm ohmmmmmmm Can't wait until tonight!
#1149
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Thanks David and raptureboy, I needed a chuckle to ease my nerves...
Got up eary this AM to get a jump start on putting some color on this bird but mother nature had other plans.Last nightshe dumped another 8" of snow on us, needless to say I had to shovel and snowblow my property first!
It took me a couple of hours once I got to my shop to prepare for spraying. I made sure none of my precious rivets had fallen off in transit (it did) and then I had to mask off all the areas that I didn't want to get painted. Finally I used a tack cloth and gently wiped off the fuse and the rest of the parts needing to get sprayed.Finally it was time to mix the paint together. Epoxy paint requires that you thoroughly mix equal parts by volume of components A & B. Part "A" being the epoxy and "B" being the catalyst. You then have to allow the mixture to sit or what they refer to as induct for 30-40 minutes before you reduce/thin out the paint. Doning a mask, I set the air pressureat my gunto 24 pounds as suggested by Tom Crump and tested the spray pattern on some cardboard. Liking the spray pattern, I started to paint... You can see how it turned out.
Got up eary this AM to get a jump start on putting some color on this bird but mother nature had other plans.Last nightshe dumped another 8" of snow on us, needless to say I had to shovel and snowblow my property first!
It took me a couple of hours once I got to my shop to prepare for spraying. I made sure none of my precious rivets had fallen off in transit (it did) and then I had to mask off all the areas that I didn't want to get painted. Finally I used a tack cloth and gently wiped off the fuse and the rest of the parts needing to get sprayed.Finally it was time to mix the paint together. Epoxy paint requires that you thoroughly mix equal parts by volume of components A & B. Part "A" being the epoxy and "B" being the catalyst. You then have to allow the mixture to sit or what they refer to as induct for 30-40 minutes before you reduce/thin out the paint. Doning a mask, I set the air pressureat my gunto 24 pounds as suggested by Tom Crump and tested the spray pattern on some cardboard. Liking the spray pattern, I started to paint... You can see how it turned out.