bikerbc

I have a set of the E Flight Electric's too and am not happy with them . I wish I had saved myself some time and money and left them out . They added weight and they don't cycle together 1/2 the time the wire struts bend when you look at them. I am constantly messing with them instead of flying .

mgrennan

I am now the owner of a Goldburg Tier 120 with a Saito 150 engine. I'm moving it. However, the wing wheel mounts broke loose on both winds. Now I have floppy wheels.

Whats the best way to repair. Should I cut through the wind and glue in another block? Can I go in through the ribs? Or should I just convert it to a tail draggier?

Calvinman

Hey Mgrennan,

I converted my 40 size to a tail dragger, flew it for a while with a castering tail wheel. I finally got sick and tired of having to walk it out to the runway so I made a pull pull system for it with some thread and simply made a small hole in the covering on the bottom of the fuse to pass the thread through. The setup works suprisingly well.

Calvi

bikerbc

mgrennan I think you would be best off to open up the covering in your wings so that you can see the damage . Then temporarily remove the landing gear . Then reglue the landing gear blocks with some extra supports . Then recover and replace your landing gear. Its also a good idea to check your balance whenever you do any repairs on your plane . Good luck and happy landings . Merry Christmas

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Yah, castering tailwheels do not work on our models. They are used on Full scale though. The difference being that they have brakes! I tried it once on my triplane, and learned real fast that it did not work.

One thing, if you cannot reach the rudder to tie into it's movement, you can always put a separate servo on the tail wheel and run a linkage directly to it. I have done this to my Sig Kadet senior. In fact, I put it on a different channel and mix the travel way down to make it handle better on the ground. It is then slaved to the rudder through my TX. Works great.

bikerbc

I build all of my all my Tigers as tail draggers . I mount the landing gear just in front of the wing . If I had one that was a trycycle I would probably leave it that way unless I was having problems with the nose gear bending . Even then you can get Fults dual strut nose gear that works much better . When I am building them I leave all the extra supports for the landing gear out of the wing and place a 1/4" plywood plate just in front of the wing with pre drilled and with blind nuts for the landing gear to mount . Lots of guys like trycycle gear better and it is easy to ground handle so I wouldn't be in a big hurry to change it over unless you have a reason to do so .

donnyman

Thank you! I do a lot of building if you notice the pic. I posted you will see two nose wheels I do a lot of experiments to achieve whatever I feel looks good at the moment. the second wheel assembly will be tried when I have the time to piddle with it. (It's a Robart 90 degree rotating) That bird is one of three I built.The kit with two copies, one of the copies is all balsa. The ply supplied in the kits is a cost reduction for the manuf. the balsa bird is much lighter.

To answer your question No! I find taking pictures and explaining what I've done to be too time consuming I'd rather build.

Let me comment on landing gear.........Most products are of low cost for various reasons, one being low quality. They will look good but the material and metalurgy is poor. I usually buy at swap meets so I can see what I am getting. and I watch what others are using. I don't believe I have ever heard Robarts called cheap or junk, that goes for some other products produced in the states also. we don't have a good hobbyshop here so I have to be careful of my purchases.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Look what the brown truck dropped off last night!



Got me an original. All seems to be in order. Looking at the manual and plans sure takes me back.

swify

I recently bought a Tiger 60 kit. The box says to use up to an 80 sized 4 stroke. I have an OS 91 I was planning to install. I don't expect it will be too much engine for the kit. Anyone have experience using a 91 size 4 stroke in this plane?

computermonkey

My Feedback: (90)

Hi Swify,
I fly mine with a Super Tigre 91 on a Jett muffler, turning a 13x7 at 12300rpms on 0% nitro. 91 four stroke will fly it just fine with excellent performance.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...l#post11916322

thailazer

Here is a toast of Tiger beer to all the Tiger flyers and builders around the world. Merry Christmas and the very best to you and yours for the holidays.

tomclark

My Tiger was scratch built to fit a Magnum 91 fs that was laying around the shop. I sized it right between the Tiger 60 and Tiger 120. The wingspan is 76", just a bit larger than the Tiger 60's 70" span. Your 91 will not be too much power, and the added weight over the 80 will help to balance the plane. If you go back and read this thread you will see how many Tigers have come out a bit tail heavy.

Yesterday we had some nice weather and I took my Tiger to the field for three flights. On takeoff I was lifting off, allowing speed to build up, and then pulling vertical into a 4 point roll. Around 400" it was slowing down, so a hammerhead turn allowed another 4 point roll straight down before heading back downwind doing three consecutive rolls. Fun! What a smooth flying bird - the long fuselage lets them fly a lot like pattern ships from the 80s.

More photos on the build thread I did. Congratulations on picking a great flying bird to build. You will love it!

brockettman

Cheers! Thanks thailazer. I lift my Colorado Kool-Aid (Coors Light) to you, the Tiger guys and all of the other RCers around the world! Merry Christmas to all and may the new year bring peace and prosperity!

tomclark

Yesterday was a fun day for me.

My 80 year old Uncle visited me from Ohio. Uncle Bobby once took me to the flying field when I was 6 years old to watch him fly a radio controlled model airplane. (I am now 68) His plane back then was called a Live Wire, powered by a .09 diesel. It was started by a home-made contraption made from an automobile starter and a car battery. You turned it on and then held the plane up and stuck the nose of the model into it. The radio was a home-made box about a foot square. It had a 30 foot cord with a pushbutton on the end of it. Push once and the rubber band escapement made the plane turn right. Push again and the rudder induced a slight left turn. Things have changed a bit over the years…

Standing in my garage where the planes are kept, I asked Uncle Bobby which planes he would like to take to the field from the four I had built this year. Being winter in Ohio the flying days were sparse. He said you choose. I chose a 102" stick first, then asked him if he had ever flown a Tiger. He said no, so we took it.

Uncle still flies and teaches a lot at his home field in Dayton. I asked him how many planes he has ready to fly. The answer was his Futaba 9 channel radios had 30 model memories, and he had two of them full - 60 airplanes ready to go. I guess I gave him a startled look, so he explained that most of them were given to him by new pilots who wrecked their ARFs, had no idea how or desire to learn to fix them, so they were given to him. He took them home and rebuilt them. Uncle Bobby had been building planes his whole life, and loves to build, so making repairs was no big deal to him. I asked him what airplane he flies the most when he goes to the field, and he told me about his Sig Kadet with 13 motors on it. He calls it The Lucky 13.

At the field we flew the Tiger first. Flying mostly smaller electric models, he loved the sound and the power of the 91 fs, but mostly he kept saying that he couldn't believe how smooth it flew. My Tiger has a 76" span and a 73" length. Uncle Bobby started explaining to me that the longer than normal length fuselage is what made it fly so smooth., more like an easy to fly pattern ship. He started flying lots of really smooth Cuban 8s, loops, and consecutive rolls, and ended with a few touch and goes. For a fella who had never flown a Tiger, he was wondering how he had missed the opportunity all his life. He loved it!

We flew my scratch built big stick a bit, but it was easy to see that he really like the Tiger best. I wonder if he will go home and build one?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

If he doesn't give him a Tiger kit next Christmas or for his birthday!

swify

I have just started building my Tiger 60 kit. The two dowels supplied with the kit are supposed to be 5/16 in diameter but one of them is 3/8. I used the 5/16 dowel to join the elevator halves as per the plans and instructions but not sure if I should use the 3/8 dowel for the wing pin or not. It would be stronger than a 5/16 dowel of course but the plans and instructions say to use a 5/16 dowel. I'm undecided at this point which way to proceed. Anyone have recent experience with this kit? Not sure if the larger dowel was included by mistake or not.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I am sure it will not matter, so long as the hole created in the former is not too big to compromise it's strength. Of course, if you have any dowel of the right size hanging around, it may be easier to use what is recommended. A quick trip to the hardware store may provide you with the right size.

swify

I went to the hardware store this morning and got a 5/16 dowel. I have the first wing half started, using a GP wing jig for it. At the point now where I have to sand the leading edge with a half diameter hole for the wing pin to pass through and then glue the leading edge onto the ribs.

Calvinman

Hi Swify, have you considered using nylon bolts to hold the wing on? I would love to retrofit mine(40 size) to take wing bolts, but it is harder to do after the fact.

Calvi

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

For some reason, I thought the dowels were for a bolt on wing set up! I have to second the idea of using wing bolts to hold the wing on. In fact, the rubber bands on my original is the reason why I crashed it. You may be too far along in your build to change course, but it is way more convenient to just tighten a couple of bolts.

spaceworm

Quoting SWIFY: "At the point now where I have to sand the leading edge with a half diameter hole for the wing pin to pass through and then glue the leading edge onto the ribs."

Sounds to me like he is preparing the wing leading edge (dowel) for the dowel glued in the wing that would fit into a hole in the fuse former to hold the front of the wing down. But, I assumed a bolt on wing, and my interpretation of his words biased that.

The 40 size Sky Tiger shows the bolt on wing as an option to the rubber bands. The dowel shown for the leading edge pin for the 40 is 1/4 inch diameter. It would make sense that the 60 Sky Tiger would use a larger diameter pin such as the 5/16 or 3/8 inch. I am not familiar with the 60 Sky Tiger plans.

Richard

swify

Yes the dowel is for the wing pin on the leading edge which inserts into the former in front of the wing and the wing bolts on to the fuselage at the rear of the wing.

swify

I might use nylon bolts to hold the wing on, they are a bit more forgiving than the socket head screws that come with the kit.

Calvinman

Oh I did not know that the kit was made for a bolt on wing, good, the old style of dowels and rubber bands are a little tireing after a while, and I am not sure how much they help if you cartwheel it. I should have converted mine when I was resurrecting it from 15 years in the attic of the garage. But it is a long winter, maybe I will take the tank out and see if I can drill some dowel holes through F2 into the wing LE.

Calvi

jerod

Hi all, Long time watcher, First time poster.
Has anyone seen and/or had any experience with the Pheonix Tiger 3 ?
I have a CG tiger 2 that I have been flying, And I love it.
I have another fuse an like to find a wing kit for it.( needed a wing, and had to buy a whole kit) I was wondering if the tigre 3 cord is the same size.Good health and good flying to all, Jerry