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  1. #26

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    We took the "cheeks" off.

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  2. #27
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    I may have to make a cutout in it for the edge of the one standoff so I can get some right thrust in..
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  3. #28
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Here's my electric 4 Star 120. Has an AXI 5330/18, a Castle HV 120 ESC, and 10S Lipos. That's an electric 4 Star 60 below it. The 4-bladed prop is just for fun to see what it looks like. I have no intention of flying with a 4-blade prop. Would probably draw too many amps.

    The plane flies well. Not fast but agile and it's fun to fly really slow.

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    "We’re retrieving the seed — then we’re done defending the humans."

  4. #29
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    I like the orange and white.

    My kit arrived and I pulled out the blueprints to check the fit of the DLE35RE. Just building the plane as designed it will bolt right in. The prop will be a little far out front for my taste though and with this size of engine I want a bit of right thrust. I am going to move the firewall back about 3/4" and if I move the engine to the left I can squeeze in 1/8" of right thrust. I can use the nose stiffeners no problem but it will be a bit tight and no cutting of the cheek cowls will be required as I hoped.
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  5. #30

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    I am not sure what I want to do just yet. I already have he DLE20 fitted to the FW on mine, and last night I learned how to fold the wings on my Deweyville.  I stripped it and put the Magnum 91 up to the P-51, and it comes up short. It looks too small to pull that plane around.  Then I put the DLE up to it and it looks just right, so the DLE20 will most likely be the engine on the P-51.  

    What goes on the 4* will be a matter of what I can find and afford.  Tower doesn't have the 35 in stock yet, but the club saver looks like I can get it for $300.  It is tempting, but I already have the fuse built out. 
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  6. #31

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    I'm about complete with building the wings and I really don't care for the method of mounting the aileron servos shown on the plans since it requires a bend in the pushrods. I have a few options in mind, but if anyone has any ideas or pictures please pass them along. Thanks, Ray

  7. #32
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    rluchetti,

    I wanted to use straight push rods on the ailerons too, so here's what I did on my plane:

    Build well!

    Ben

    Tried uploading some pictures... but no luck right now. You can see my aileron servo mount mod, post #703, in this thread:

    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_35...29/key_/tm.htm
    Build well! Ben
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  8. #33

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Mount the servo sideways on the hatch cover. Glue a couple blocks on the cover,  cut a slot for the arm to pass through. Get heavy duty long servo arms for your servos.  The hatch then screws to the hard wood rails. Dont use the covers in the kit, too thin and flex easily, use 1/16th ply instead.
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  9. #34
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    acdii,

    That is a great way to mount the servos... Replacing the hatch cover with the plywood is a great idea, that would make a much more solid mount.

    I glued my servo mounting blocks to the underside of the servo hatch rails and made a couple of brackets to attach the servos to the blocks. This way I can remove the servo hatches while the servos remain in the wing, makes it a little easier to get the linkage set up. Sorry the pictures I referenced didn't show it very well. I'll try to get some others posted that show the installation better...

    Build well!

    Ben
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  10. #35

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Thanks guys, great suggestions. Ray

  11. #36

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Well I got the fuse glued up, and the FW epoxied. I used Titebond this time around, since I ran out of Elmers, and tite was  on sale. It flows much smoother and seems to bond quicker, but takes longer to fully cure. Since I will be putting the tank over the CG, I dont think I will need the tank floor.

    On the ARF, the top balsa sheeting cracked real easy whenever I put the plane on the stand to attach the wing, so Im lookiing at using something else, maybe plywood, and determine where to put a hatch.  Aside from that, just the servo tray, and pull/pull cable ways will need to be done.
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  12. #37

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Argh, I have a problem now. I noticed last night when I looked at the fuse that my landing gear block shifted while curing. Its at a slight angle up at the back now.  I have 2 choices, cut it out and makes a new one and hope I dont screw up the rest of the fuse in the process, or hit it with the belt sander so it  is flush with the fuse bottom and just shim the back side of it.  Thinking of going with the latter since the screws are steel and can pull it tight without breaking.  

    I think what happened was the block moved while it was resting, I should have had it inverted after I glued it up, didnt notice that the fuse rested on the back edge of the part. 
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  13. #38
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Darn... At least it is fixable problem so not too bad. I wonder how it would go with your new DA?
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  14. #39

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    Hmm would be one FAST 4*, but man would it be nose heavy!
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  15. #40
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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    If the landing block causes the wheels to slightly stick out front more, it probably won't hurt.. if YOU think it makes it look funny.. go with your second idea of sanding it level with the fuse..

  16. #41

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build


    ORIGINAL: Super08

    Darn... At least it is fixable problem so not too bad. I wonder how it would go with your new DA?


    Um, it would actually fit the firewall! The landing gear would have to be huge though with the 28" prop.

    If the landing block causes the wheels to slightly stick out front more, it probably won't hurt.. if YOU think it makes it look funny.. go with your second idea of sanding it level with the fuse..
    I is angled back, and I confirmed its from resting on it as the glue was setting so

    TIP, dont left the fuse rest on the bottom while the glue cures on the LG block.

    Going to use some body filler to level it out, and then sand if flush.


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  17. #42

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    OK Guys, finally got some pics.  The building is done, just doing the radio and engine install. The tail is done, held off on the tail braces, will see how she flies first, and determine if it actually needs them. The elevator servo is in the rear, like the ARF, and instead of a pushrod used a pull.pull for the rudder. Throttle servo is installed, and may put a choke servo in instead of the wire sticking out the side.   The Aileron servos are mounted sideways so only the arm sticks out, like I mentioned above, and attached to a cover so I can pull 4 screws to remove the servo. It is setup just like the ARF was, and I actually used the links from that plane instead of making new ones.  For the landing gear instead of painting the aluminum gear, I polished and clear coated it instead. Found 4" wheels and axles at a swap meet for $8, saved at least $10 or more.

    Need to find a different muffler to see if I can get one that will fit inside the cheek without cutting. then plumb the engine, install the pushrods for the choke and throttle, batteries, ignition and the switches. Then put the pilot (Garfield) in and put on the canopy, and then figure out how to rim the plane so it isnt just blue. Maybe stars and bars, or FLAMES!





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  18. #43

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    RE: Four Star 120 New build

    BTW I staggered the pattern on the ailerons and elevators for a reason, breaks up the pattern to make it easier to see.
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