Register

If this is your first visit, please click the Sign Up now button to begin the process of creating your account so you can begin posting on our forums! The Sign Up process will only take up about a minute of two of your time.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 37 of 37

  1. #26
    glydrjocky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Somewhere, CA
    Posts
    302
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    Elmers wood glue and Titebond have held strong over time. I built a Wanderer glider back in 1981 and still have the well worn wing hanging on the wall. The Bridi Trainer 40, which I still fly today, was built the next year. Both the glider wing and the trainer glue joints are holding strong after all this time. Wood glue is great and so is the patience required when you build with it. Sometimes I long for those days on the work bench in high school when I would frame up a wing, turn out the garage light and let it sit till I got home from school to unpin it the next day.

    Hope that helps,

    Tony
    \" The only people who truly know where the \"edge\" lies, are those who have gone over\"

  2. #27
    Zor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ontario, ON, CANADA
    Posts
    3,526

    RE: Kit building glue


    ORIGINAL: klord125

    I use Titebond. But I make sure I clean up any excess real good. Mostly because I'm a weight nut and when sanding sheeting or other areas it makes a big difference if you get rid of any excess. I can't use CA it kills me. I loved using Ambroid but build time is a little longer in my opinion.
    klord125,

    It wouldhave beeninteresting if you had been able to back up the big difference with figures; at least an estimate.

    Zor

  3. #28

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    North Reading, MA
    Posts
    150
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    Zor, My point wasn't from a weight thing. Thats just me from 1/2a days and haven't been able to let it go. I was refering to sanding the glue. It makes a big difference when final sanding from an ease stand point. Just my .02

  4. #29

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Ladson, SC
    Posts
    488
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    Man, what great memories.   We used to build our planes in woodshop in school.   Helped in our grades but we still had to make birdhouses, whirlygigs, and simple furniture for the better part of the grade.

    Good to, the school board let us use a schoolbus with driver for a weekender to Patuxant River, Maryland for an AMA contests.  Those days are long gone and not likely to be repeated.  

    Ray W
    Fleet Brotherhood #7
    Fleet Brotherhood #7

  5. #30
    Zor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ontario, ON, CANADA
    Posts
    3,526

    RE: Kit building glue


    ORIGINAL: Zor


    ORIGINAL: klord125

    I use Titebond. But I make sure I clean up any excess real good. Mostly because I'm a weight nut and when sanding sheeting or other areas it makes a big difference if you get rid of any excess. I can't use CA it kills me. I loved using Ambroid but build time is a little longer in my opinion.
    klord125,

    It wouldhave beeninteresting if you had been able to back up the big difference with figures; at least an estimate.

    Zor
    You said that you were a weight nut and I interpeted (I think logically) that removing the surplus was saving lots of weight of the model.

    I was suggesting that you could havegiven an estimate ofhow much weight it was saving.

    Zor


  6. #31

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Taylorsville, KY
    Posts
    2,315
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    I like wood glue, Ambroid (Sigment, Duco) and epoxy. I only use CA to fab jigs. For me, CA is terrible if it get on something that needs sanding.
    As an aside about weight savings: the 1933 Darmstadt D-28b 'Windspiel' sailplane was built with a primary goal of a very small, efficient, manoeverable and lightest sailplane possible to take advantage of small thermals. Quoting Martin Simons' book 'Sailplanes 1920-1945'- "All joints were carefully wiped before the adhesive set." is found on p82.
    Interesting stuff that goes to show there is nothing new under the sun!

  7. #32

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    North Reading, MA
    Posts
    150
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    I have never weighed the excess glue that I removed. Its not that big a deal on larger planes. But it can be on smaller 1/2a and such planes when grams/ounces are a big deal.

  8. #33

    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Leander, TX
    Posts
    6,144
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    *Titebond - For general building. No need to work fast, its just a hobby.
    *CA - Little tack jobs, small repairs, ca hinges, maybe a fiberglass patch. Too expensive to use regularly.
    *30 min epoxy - High strength areas.
    *Less than 30 min epoxy - thinned with denatured alcohol for fuel proofing.
    *Gorilla Glue or any other polyu foaming glue (I used to use ProBond, cant find it anymore) - Where 30 min epoxy wont work. Like some windshield installations (very fine bead), wing mounting joints, robart hinges (couple of drops does fine), and wing sheeting.
    *GOOP - Stick anything to air. I use it to glue parts to Polyester glass fuses (epoxy doesnt stick so good to polye), like air tanks to a polye fuse.
    *RC-56 (or equivalent) - for canopies that i dont screw on.
    *JB Weld - Thinned with denatured alcohol makes a good heat shield inside a cowl and on the fuse.
    *Hobby Finish Reson - For glassing to wood, also makes a good filler when mixed with micro balloons or saw dust. Sands like hard balsa.

    For making cowls - Thinned 30 min epoxy or finish reson. Finish reson is a little more stiffer than epoxy. Both are durable.

    The only reason I dont use West Systems reson is cost and quantity. I dont need so much. UNLESS - I'm making a glass fuse which I havent done yet.
    Edwin

  9. #34

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Greenville, GA
    Posts
    33
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    What is the best glue to use for laminating large doublers without worrying about warping?

  10. #35

    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Leander, TX
    Posts
    6,144
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    I use titebond. Sandwich them between two pieces of straight wood and weight it down.
    Edwin

  11. #36
    VincentJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    peterborough, NH
    Posts
    2,547
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    Good advice.
    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2, Sig Brotherhood #143

  12. #37

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Greenville, GA
    Posts
    33
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Kit building glue

    Thank you Edwin.
    Flash


Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:42 PM.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.