Paint Question
#2
RE: Paint Question
Skip,
I have used Krylon spray paint with good results. I like the Krylon as it seems to spray better then the Rustoleum. It holds up well to gas.
The Stick was painted with Krylon. It was shot over Dupli-Color primer.
Anthony
I have used Krylon spray paint with good results. I like the Krylon as it seems to spray better then the Rustoleum. It holds up well to gas.
The Stick was painted with Krylon. It was shot over Dupli-Color primer.
Anthony
#4
My Feedback: (158)
RE: Paint Question
ORIGINAL: Skip
I'm building a Dyna Flight Decathalon and I need to paint the cowl and wheel pants. I will be using a DLE 30 cc gas engine and was wondering if Rustoleum would be a good choice. Do I need primer or do I apply it straight from the rattle can?
I'm building a Dyna Flight Decathalon and I need to paint the cowl and wheel pants. I will be using a DLE 30 cc gas engine and was wondering if Rustoleum would be a good choice. Do I need primer or do I apply it straight from the rattle can?
Many Rattle can paints cover fine without primer, but if you're going to use any shades of yellow, orange or red I'd use a solid white primer first unless the ABS cowl is perfectly white, any dark spots will show through.
good luck
#5
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RE: Paint Question
I don't know which paint to use but I would suggest washing the plastic to remove any mold release agents and it probably wouldn't hurt to skuff it up a little with something like Scotchbrite.
#6
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Paint Question
ORIGINAL: huck1199
I don't think rustoleum is fuel proof
I don't think rustoleum is fuel proof
#8
My Feedback: (11)
RE: Paint Question
Picked up an automotive paint from Auto Zone. Tested it with glow fuel over night, no change to the painted surface. This was a body paint, not for engine or other specialty paints. Cant get to the paint brand tonight but if anyone is interested you can email me [email protected]
#9
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Paint Question
If color match to the rest of the plane is important, i would go with latex. Stores like Home Depot can color match the paint to a sample you provide. If color match is not important i would use Krylon, it is easy to work with and provides a good finish from a rattle can. Also, i would use Krylon primer, it works very good as well and sands easy. It may take a couple of coats. I used Krylon primer on these parts http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11343043
#10
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Paint Question
Just something I wanted to bring up about fuel proof paint. The term used to be hot fuel proof and that meant the exhaust and oil. It never really was meant to be able to withstand direct nitro fuel for any length of time. I have seen model paint now stating it will be able to withstand fuel with up to 15% nitro in it. It just never says for how long. I just had some Klass Kote flake and peel after a fuel tank leak. I also used no primer, I just painted over the glass but I glassed with straight lacquer. That was the first time I have ever seen Klass Kote soften and peel off??
#12
My Feedback: (11)
RE: Paint Question
The paint I got from Auto Zone that didnt soften or run after having nitro fuel applied to it over night is called "Dupli.Color, Perfect Match.
U should be able to find it under Dupli-Color.com
The one I used to run my test was BUN0090 Unuversal Black Metalic.
Hope this helps.
Rafeek
U should be able to find it under Dupli-Color.com
The one I used to run my test was BUN0090 Unuversal Black Metalic.
Hope this helps.
Rafeek
#13
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RE: Paint Question
Rustoleum is GASOLINE proof. You said you were using a GASOLINE powered engine so Rustoleum will be fine. Krylon will be fine. Latex will be fine. None of these paints work worth a darn with Methanol powered engines but that is NOT what you were asking about.
#16
RE: Paint Question
Paint will crack, chip, whatever, if the substrate is improperly prepared, or if it is flexing, itself. The paint isn't the problem, the preperation is. Stress cracks come from the substrate, not the paint.
As far as fuel resistance goes, I have better luck with Rustoleum, but Krylon does a reasonable job.
A good finsh can be produced when using rattle cans. Surface prep is the key, as it is in any paint job.
In these pics, both models were painted in Rustoleum.
The Cessna was painted using an HVLP gun, from paint available in quart cans.
The glow powered Cub, was painted from spray cans.
On both models, the fiberglass parts were primed. No open bay areas were sprayed with primer, as they flex, and the primer would crack. Rustoleum, Krylon, etc, are all flexible enough to spray over open bays without future problems.
As far as fuel resistance goes, I have better luck with Rustoleum, but Krylon does a reasonable job.
A good finsh can be produced when using rattle cans. Surface prep is the key, as it is in any paint job.
In these pics, both models were painted in Rustoleum.
The Cessna was painted using an HVLP gun, from paint available in quart cans.
The glow powered Cub, was painted from spray cans.
On both models, the fiberglass parts were primed. No open bay areas were sprayed with primer, as they flex, and the primer would crack. Rustoleum, Krylon, etc, are all flexible enough to spray over open bays without future problems.
#17
RE: Paint Question
Most paints are a form of enamel or lacquer, and will be fuel safe. If you allow the paint to dry for an extended time you will not have any trouble . I used good old testers model paint to do a cowl for a Sig Kadet. The only problem this one had was a little fuel staining from the die in the glow fuel. The paints like Rustoleum are an Alkyd enamel no acrylic and will cure very well with time. If you are getting the paint in a pint can or some other bulk form they sell what is called " Japan drier" this will help the paint cure.
If you go with an automotive touch up paint, these are lacquers and and really fuel proof but are brittle so will tend to crack easier.
Andy.
If you go with an automotive touch up paint, these are lacquers and and really fuel proof but are brittle so will tend to crack easier.
Andy.
#18
RE: Paint Question
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz
Most paints are a form of enamel or lacquer, and will be fuel safe. If you allow the paint to dry for an extended time you will not have any trouble . I used good old testers model paint to do a cowl for a Sig Kadet. The only problem this one had was a little fuel staining from the die in the glow fuel. The paints like Rustoleum are an Alkyd enamel no acrylic and will cure very well with time. If you are getting the paint in a pint can or some other bulk form they sell what is called '' Japan drier'' this will help the paint cure.
If you go with an automotive touch up paint, these are lacquers and and really fuel proof but are brittle so will tend to crack easier.
Andy.
Most paints are a form of enamel or lacquer, and will be fuel safe. If you allow the paint to dry for an extended time you will not have any trouble . I used good old testers model paint to do a cowl for a Sig Kadet. The only problem this one had was a little fuel staining from the die in the glow fuel. The paints like Rustoleum are an Alkyd enamel no acrylic and will cure very well with time. If you are getting the paint in a pint can or some other bulk form they sell what is called '' Japan drier'' this will help the paint cure.
If you go with an automotive touch up paint, these are lacquers and and really fuel proof but are brittle so will tend to crack easier.
Andy.
#19
RE: Paint Question
Two differant animals, surprised it works. Acrylic hardener is meant for acrylic enamel. Unless Rustoleum has changed over the years it is alkyd based would require an alkyd hardener.
#20
RE: Paint Question
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz
Two differant animals, surprised it works. Acrylic hardener is meant for acrylic enamel. Unless Rustoleum has changed over the years it is alkyd based would require an alkyd hardener.
Two differant animals, surprised it works. Acrylic hardener is meant for acrylic enamel. Unless Rustoleum has changed over the years it is alkyd based would require an alkyd hardener.
The guys at the auto paint store said the same thing. They were interested, though, when they found out that it does work.
I'm a paint guy, having been in the manufacturing end for over 30 years. I'm not big into adding unknown additives in to my paint. I was hesitant to try it, but a couple friends had success with it. I tried it only after their success.
Rustoleum says that their paint can be thinned with acetone or mineral spirits.
The mineral spirits is not strong enough to cut the hardener. The resulting paint job is terrible.
The acetone cuts the hardener well, but the paint flashes off a bit faster.
I've painted three models in this manner. I'm quite pleased with the outcome.
#21
RE: Paint Question
Tom,
Is that an Isocyanate type hardener? Just curious now how it works. Used to be in the paint buisness a few years ago also. There are a lot of things you can do, but would never tell people because people tend to push the limits, and would never want to be responsible for some ones bad judgement or going against a manufacturers guide lines.
If acetone works it actually opens the door for other thinners also.
Andy
Is that an Isocyanate type hardener? Just curious now how it works. Used to be in the paint buisness a few years ago also. There are a lot of things you can do, but would never tell people because people tend to push the limits, and would never want to be responsible for some ones bad judgement or going against a manufacturers guide lines.
If acetone works it actually opens the door for other thinners also.
Andy
#23
RE: Paint Question
I really don't know, Andy. I just know that it works.
I agree with people pushing the limits. That's why I try to thoroughly explain what I do, and show the products that I use. I am aware that any deviation can cause problems.
The Evercoat product does not have that distinct odor that many automotive hardeners produce. You know, that stink that permeates the air for weeks, in enclosed spaces.
I agree with people pushing the limits. That's why I try to thoroughly explain what I do, and show the products that I use. I am aware that any deviation can cause problems.
The Evercoat product does not have that distinct odor that many automotive hardeners produce. You know, that stink that permeates the air for weeks, in enclosed spaces.
#25
RE: Paint Question
ORIGINAL: OldScaleGuy
Interesting. Tom, what ratio are you using, paint to hardener to acetone?
Interesting. Tom, what ratio are you using, paint to hardener to acetone?
I don't mix it to the acetone, but to the paint.
I add the hardener to the paint, and then thin with acetone.
No set ratio of paint to acetone. I thin to the consistancy of milk. I probably start at 2 parts paint, and one acetone. I test spray, and add more solvent,if necessary. It could easily end up as a 1:1 mix.