Top Flite GS P-47 sports scale; diary of a build
01-16-2015, 09:29 PM
#1602
Any more you had better have these things figured out before you buy anything and or build anything. Tony is good at figuring things out, he always comes up with something. Gotta love that gear, it's very nice stuff.
Leroy
Leroy
01-17-2015, 04:46 AM
#1603
T/B
You are just sending the muffler back ? In another 47 thread a fellow made a custom muffler that used flex pipes into a can the was made to fit in to the chin just behind the fire wall and his exhaust ports were the waist gates in each side. Sorry I did not keep the info or the thead as I was just surfing and happened on it. But it looked like a good plan but from what I remember he had a buddy the was a tig/mig welder.
Just a thought
Cheers Bob T
You are just sending the muffler back ? In another 47 thread a fellow made a custom muffler that used flex pipes into a can the was made to fit in to the chin just behind the fire wall and his exhaust ports were the waist gates in each side. Sorry I did not keep the info or the thead as I was just surfing and happened on it. But it looked like a good plan but from what I remember he had a buddy the was a tig/mig welder.
Just a thought
Cheers Bob T
this is the home made muffler I am using on Angie.
TB
01-17-2015, 11:34 AM
#1604
My Feedback: (6)
T/B
That is one of the problems with getting OLD like me you forget things.
Any way at my club field we have a neighbor problem so we are self imposed max DB of 90 at 9 ft.so about 18 months ago I did some research and found if you are making your own and you have room make the can elliptical, and have an internal baffle and if possible put the holes in the tubes on one side away from the exhaust port. by doing this you tend to brake up the sound wave.
Cheers Bob T
That is one of the problems with getting OLD like me you forget things.
Any way at my club field we have a neighbor problem so we are self imposed max DB of 90 at 9 ft.so about 18 months ago I did some research and found if you are making your own and you have room make the can elliptical, and have an internal baffle and if possible put the holes in the tubes on one side away from the exhaust port. by doing this you tend to brake up the sound wave.
Cheers Bob T
01-18-2015, 11:51 AM
#1607
Elevators
Been working on the elevator hinge lines.
I sized my drawing on my computer to match my modle.
The elevator on the kit is a little smaller so adding the round LE brings it out to the size of my drawing.
Three of the four pre drilled hinges will work. I did have to move the second from the inside in a 1/2" to clear the scale hinge block.
The hinge blocks are static and none functional so I am making them more scale.
carbon fiber laminets make the hinge caps, I small balsa block glued into the TE of the stab holds the cap.
The forth most inner hinge will be in the fuselage TE and part of the elevator tourqe rod, that's next.
TB
I sized my drawing on my computer to match my modle.
The elevator on the kit is a little smaller so adding the round LE brings it out to the size of my drawing.
Three of the four pre drilled hinges will work. I did have to move the second from the inside in a 1/2" to clear the scale hinge block.
The hinge blocks are static and none functional so I am making them more scale.
carbon fiber laminets make the hinge caps, I small balsa block glued into the TE of the stab holds the cap.
The forth most inner hinge will be in the fuselage TE and part of the elevator tourqe rod, that's next.
TB
01-18-2015, 01:28 PM
#1608
Elevator tourqe rod
Getting the elevator tourqe rod fabricated.
I used two 1-1/2" aluminumn Futaba servo arms to creat the tourqe rod bearings. This will also work as the inner hinge.
Brass 1/4" tube, 1/4" aluminumn control horn, and two aluminum servo arms shaped and drilled into the back of the fuselage to make the inner hinges.
I will add a pin into the controll hormone and I will solder threw the brass tube two 1/8" piano wire rods to go into the elevators. They will go into the first pre drilled hing hole.
Taking a break to watch some football.
TB
I used two 1-1/2" aluminumn Futaba servo arms to creat the tourqe rod bearings. This will also work as the inner hinge.
Brass 1/4" tube, 1/4" aluminumn control horn, and two aluminum servo arms shaped and drilled into the back of the fuselage to make the inner hinges.
I will add a pin into the controll hormone and I will solder threw the brass tube two 1/8" piano wire rods to go into the elevators. They will go into the first pre drilled hing hole.
Taking a break to watch some football.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-18-2015 at 01:30 PM.
01-19-2015, 03:05 PM
#1612
Elevator hinge pocket
Getting a little work in and some work on the jug too.
The right stabe hinge pocket is done.
My usual carbon fiber strip to close the hinge pocket. At first I was not going to do the sweep on the tips but with the pocket you need to have a way to terminaite the strips so the sweep works good for that.
Carbon fiber 1/4" strips to forme the hinge pocket.
The he sweept tip terminates the strips.
I still ill need to trim the ends to fit the profile of the fuselage.
I will ill sand the stab and elevator befor I glue them all together.
The closed pocket is more stream line and prevents fluter.
One down and one to go.
TB
The right stabe hinge pocket is done.
My usual carbon fiber strip to close the hinge pocket. At first I was not going to do the sweep on the tips but with the pocket you need to have a way to terminaite the strips so the sweep works good for that.
Carbon fiber 1/4" strips to forme the hinge pocket.
The he sweept tip terminates the strips.
I still ill need to trim the ends to fit the profile of the fuselage.
I will ill sand the stab and elevator befor I glue them all together.
The closed pocket is more stream line and prevents fluter.
One down and one to go.
TB
01-19-2015, 06:17 PM
#1613
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Location: Williamsburg, VA
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I like how you did your elevator hinge. But have few questions:
1: where did you get aluminum arm that's attached to the tube. Is it pinned. Or just holding to the tube by matter of friction.
2. Are you gonna cut that brass tube? The way it is now, it looks like it will interfere with first, most inner pin hinge.
1: where did you get aluminum arm that's attached to the tube. Is it pinned. Or just holding to the tube by matter of friction.
2. Are you gonna cut that brass tube? The way it is now, it looks like it will interfere with first, most inner pin hinge.
01-20-2015, 02:48 AM
#1614
I like how you did your elevator hinge. But have few questions:
1: where did you get aluminum arm that's attached to the tube. Is it pinned. Or just holding to the tube by matter of friction.
2. Are you gonna cut that brass tube? The way it is now, it looks like it will interfere with first, most inner pin hinge.
1: where did you get aluminum arm that's attached to the tube. Is it pinned. Or just holding to the tube by matter of friction.
2. Are you gonna cut that brass tube? The way it is now, it looks like it will interfere with first, most inner pin hinge.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-20-2015 at 02:51 AM.
01-20-2015, 09:05 AM
#1615
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I see. Clever. I'm thinking to replicate this solution in my 47.
I like hidden linkage.
Only drawback is, if elevator servo fails, both halves are dead.
I'm gonna use Hitec 7954 SH at 6.6V, so about 350oz of torque. More than enough. But there is also only one pushrod. What kind of pushrod are you gonna use? What's your thoughts on this subject.
I like hidden linkage.
Only drawback is, if elevator servo fails, both halves are dead.
I'm gonna use Hitec 7954 SH at 6.6V, so about 350oz of torque. More than enough. But there is also only one pushrod. What kind of pushrod are you gonna use? What's your thoughts on this subject.
01-20-2015, 11:15 AM
#1616
I see. Clever. I'm thinking to replicate this solution in my 47.
I like hidden linkage.
Only drawback is, if elevator servo fails, both halves are dead.
I'm gonna use Hitec 7954 SH at 6.6V, so about 350oz of torque. More than enough. But there is also only one pushrod. What kind of pushrod are you gonna use? What's your thoughts on this subject.
I like hidden linkage.
Only drawback is, if elevator servo fails, both halves are dead.
I'm gonna use Hitec 7954 SH at 6.6V, so about 350oz of torque. More than enough. But there is also only one pushrod. What kind of pushrod are you gonna use? What's your thoughts on this subject.
On this build I will use one of the pushrod sleves with a 4-40 pushrod.
If one half of your elevator fails you got bigger problems, build it well and it won't fail.
TB
01-20-2015, 11:41 AM
#1617
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It was my first giant gas I bought from someone.
01-21-2015, 04:47 AM
#1619
Been thinking on servo setup and the existing servo tray. I am using one of the sleeves for the rudder for my single elevator push rod.
This is the best location for the elevator. This gives a nice relative strait shot to the linkage and servo.
I am going with the solid 1/4" aluminum rod over the brass tube. I will tap a 2/56 pin threw the arm and then two threaded bolts into the elevator halves.
The two elevator sleeves will be the pull-pull for the rudder.
So fare I will have two or three servos depending if I do a separate servo for stering, may just do rudder and stering on the same servo.
Next time when I get back to it I will join the elevators. Then work on the rudder.
TB
This is the best location for the elevator. This gives a nice relative strait shot to the linkage and servo.
I am going with the solid 1/4" aluminum rod over the brass tube. I will tap a 2/56 pin threw the arm and then two threaded bolts into the elevator halves.
The two elevator sleeves will be the pull-pull for the rudder.
So fare I will have two or three servos depending if I do a separate servo for stering, may just do rudder and stering on the same servo.
Next time when I get back to it I will join the elevators. Then work on the rudder.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-22-2015 at 02:58 AM.
01-21-2015, 01:43 PM
#1620
So I talked to Al at JTEC about my muffler and they are building me one that will fit inside the cowl. I sent the big fat one back, he said it is this big to make the engine quiet, "we don't need no stinking quiet" I told him 
so hopefully they will come threw with a usable muffler, I would still like to use the DLE85, the EME60 with starter is out of stock right now.
TB
so hopefully they will come threw with a usable muffler, I would still like to use the DLE85, the EME60 with starter is out of stock right now. TB
01-22-2015, 03:48 AM
#1622
Just some thoughts on the finish for this build.
I still like the idea of an all aluminum finish without invasion strips and art work. Maybe just the stars and bars, and olive drab anti glair.
If I were to do invasion strips I would paint them on so we will see, same with the stars and bars.
TB
I still like the idea of an all aluminum finish without invasion strips and art work. Maybe just the stars and bars, and olive drab anti glair.
If I were to do invasion strips I would paint them on so we will see, same with the stars and bars.
TB
01-22-2015, 03:03 PM
#1623
Elevator tourqe rod
The elevator tourqe rod is done and dry fited to the fuselage and elevator halves.
I made a ply block jig to drill the holes in the aluminum rod. I drilled 1/8" holes and being I did not have any 1/8" piano wire I used two 1/8" drill bits as the elevator pines. I have used drill bits for axels so these should do.
The jig gives me perfect centering and alignment.
The pins are in the holes for the first hinge pins, this is a solid pals block area with two ply hard points on the surface.
The trench will get filled with epoxy when I join the elevator halves.
Once I am sure of the elevator and the pins I will glue it all in on the stab.
The control arm is pined with a 2-56 bolt threw the 1/4" aluminum rod tap threaded, red Loctite on all threads.
I drilled and taped a 2-56x 4-40 ball link to the aluminumn are. I like using the 2-56 ball links for hidden linkages as they are smaller and fit better, they thread onto 4-40 rods.
I will check this then glue it next time I get to the build.
TB
I made a ply block jig to drill the holes in the aluminum rod. I drilled 1/8" holes and being I did not have any 1/8" piano wire I used two 1/8" drill bits as the elevator pines. I have used drill bits for axels so these should do.
The jig gives me perfect centering and alignment.
The pins are in the holes for the first hinge pins, this is a solid pals block area with two ply hard points on the surface.
The trench will get filled with epoxy when I join the elevator halves.
Once I am sure of the elevator and the pins I will glue it all in on the stab.
The control arm is pined with a 2-56 bolt threw the 1/4" aluminum rod tap threaded, red Loctite on all threads.
I drilled and taped a 2-56x 4-40 ball link to the aluminumn are. I like using the 2-56 ball links for hidden linkages as they are smaller and fit better, they thread onto 4-40 rods.
I will check this then glue it next time I get to the build.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-22-2015 at 03:21 PM.
