Top Flite GS P-47 sports scale; diary of a build
#1630
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Here are a few schemes I have been looking at, please feel free to offer some choices as I am open to most of the unusual schemes!
I I like this one as it is shinny and the brushed aluminum will look good with minimal overlay painting.
This one is ok but probably been over done.
Another unusuwal one but plane Jane.
Maybe!
I really like this one as it falls in the Angie relm and would look good along side. Plus the ladis not bad
- Miss Fire / Rosie Geth II, P-47D-25-RE, s/n #42-26628, coded 'LM-C' and flown by Capt. Frederick J. Christensen Jr. of 62nd FS / 56th FG,
This one could be cool too.
TB
I I like this one as it is shinny and the brushed aluminum will look good with minimal overlay painting.
This one is ok but probably been over done.
Another unusuwal one but plane Jane.
Maybe!
I really like this one as it falls in the Angie relm and would look good along side. Plus the ladis not bad
- Miss Fire / Rosie Geth II, P-47D-25-RE, s/n #42-26628, coded 'LM-C' and flown by Capt. Frederick J. Christensen Jr. of 62nd FS / 56th FG,
This one could be cool too.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-23-2015 at 04:39 AM.
#1633
My Feedback: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Williamsburg, VA
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Miss Fire, that was going to be my vote. Other one I like is Air Cooled Injun, but I could find only nose art picture. , http://s274.photobucket.com/user/jae...8thFg.jpg.html
#1634
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Scoob, that's a good one, I'm choosing on eas of finishing too. No checkered cowl, no fully covered tail feathers (painted) and minimal overlay colors. Miss Fire is not bad as fare as that goes.
Just got confirmation from JTEC as to the size and what the muffler will look like for the DLE85
TB
Just got confirmation from JTEC as to the size and what the muffler will look like for the DLE85
TB
#1637
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
So for the noes art the vinyle decal is not going to be the best qulity so I either have to have my airbrush artist do the pinup or I can use a slightly different modle. These water transfers are very good and the best qulity short of hand painting.
So I got a couple from vintage guitars.
TB
So I got a couple from vintage guitars.
TB
#1639
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Getting a start on the rudder hinge pocket.
First I cut the fo hing block out of carbon fiber laminet.
I glue that in with a block of base wood.
then the CF strips followed by the balsa stick.
One side done, I screwed up the hing block tab on the stab as I did not ad 1/4" of the CF strip so they are a 1/4" sort.
I got it right on the rudder.
TB
First I cut the fo hing block out of carbon fiber laminet.
I glue that in with a block of base wood.
then the CF strips followed by the balsa stick.
One side done, I screwed up the hing block tab on the stab as I did not ad 1/4" of the CF strip so they are a 1/4" sort.
I got it right on the rudder.
TB
#1641
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Bob, if you are referring to the hing cap. I can't be 100% sure but my guess is that the slot is so one can accses and install the hing bolt, then the tab cover is screwed to cover the hinge. So being I am not actually using the hinge blocks like I am and did on the prototype and Angie these are just scale details. Using the carbon fiber replicated the hing pretty good. One could also put a HD hing here and then in the finishing cover it with the tabe.
TB
TB
#1642
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Rudder
The top half of the rudder hinge pocket is completed.
Carbon fiber tabs for the hinge linkage covers.
CF strips in between the tabs, as on the stab.
The top hinge pocke is complete leaving the more complex lower pocket to do.
One thing I realize is that in most modles that don't have the fatter lower section on the rudder is that most rudders are fatter (wider) in general foe strengthen making it one size and not having the wider lower section. I think the fuselage is the corect withdth at the ende relatively but the top porting of the rudder is not as thin as the full scale.
I will not be doing the scale rudder on this build, saving it for Angie.
Here you can see how the tab is looking, more scale in my opinion.
I am starting to do the cut out for the elevator tourqe rod and controll arm.
Tomorrow I should get most of this done.
V
TB
Carbon fiber tabs for the hinge linkage covers.
CF strips in between the tabs, as on the stab.
The top hinge pocke is complete leaving the more complex lower pocket to do.
One thing I realize is that in most modles that don't have the fatter lower section on the rudder is that most rudders are fatter (wider) in general foe strengthen making it one size and not having the wider lower section. I think the fuselage is the corect withdth at the ende relatively but the top porting of the rudder is not as thin as the full scale.
I will not be doing the scale rudder on this build, saving it for Angie.
Here you can see how the tab is looking, more scale in my opinion.
I am starting to do the cut out for the elevator tourqe rod and controll arm.
Tomorrow I should get most of this done.
V
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-24-2015 at 05:43 PM.
#1643
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Rudder linkage
Got the rudder linkage done this morning.
I like to use stuff I have and if that doesn't work I will manufacture something.
I'm not doing the scale linkage like I am doing with Angie as this is sports scale
I am using the Sullivan arms as I did on "My Babby"
I think this will be a good in between setup from full on scale to hidiouse push rods.
Bolted together and cut into the rudder, this will get epoxied in.
The pull-pull will enter the fuselage just outside of the hinge pocket faring.
2-56x4-40 ball links are my scale link of choice.
TB
I like to use stuff I have and if that doesn't work I will manufacture something.
I'm not doing the scale linkage like I am doing with Angie as this is sports scale
I am using the Sullivan arms as I did on "My Babby"
I think this will be a good in between setup from full on scale to hidiouse push rods.
Bolted together and cut into the rudder, this will get epoxied in.
The pull-pull will enter the fuselage just outside of the hinge pocket faring.
2-56x4-40 ball links are my scale link of choice.
TB
#1644
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
The lower hinge pick is done. Some 1/32" birch ply and easy sand did the trick.
I could not resist the scale rudder linkage.........so.
I thought I would try the scale linkage for the rudder while I was here.....why not!
So I fleped the arm around, moved the ball inks in to the closets hole, and cut the excess off.
This looks like it will work and as the rudder doesn't have much throw on it anyways the pull-pull should be fined
So far everything clears and there is no conflict with the elevator arm. I can attach some cables and see how it will perform. I may add one more hinge pint in this area to stiffing the lower half up.
I will make a cover plate to cover the cut out in the rudder like I did on the prototype.
TB
I could not resist the scale rudder linkage.........so.
I thought I would try the scale linkage for the rudder while I was here.....why not!
So I fleped the arm around, moved the ball inks in to the closets hole, and cut the excess off.
This looks like it will work and as the rudder doesn't have much throw on it anyways the pull-pull should be fined
So far everything clears and there is no conflict with the elevator arm. I can attach some cables and see how it will perform. I may add one more hinge pint in this area to stiffing the lower half up.
I will make a cover plate to cover the cut out in the rudder like I did on the prototype.
TB
#1647
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Thanks Bob, I am really liking this RTC kit. One thing I noticed is that unlike the kit version that only has a few 1/4" strigers this kit has twice as many stringers just like I did with my kit builds. I just don't get why the kit is so much weaker in design and in construction (materials) then the RTC or ARF! Really wish I would have found this before I started the Angie build, ironically I almost got the RTC after the prototype crashed but it was out of stock and I did not have a clue that it was so well made.
I laid up the tail wheel door skin. I have the doors from the prototype that I may use as they worked pretty good. That is next on the bench.
TB
I laid up the tail wheel door skin. I have the doors from the prototype that I may use as they worked pretty good. That is next on the bench.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-26-2015 at 04:37 PM.
#1648
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
So I am seriously considering trying a Solo 4 blade prop for this bird. Being it will have the DLE85 it can swing the prop. I have been talking with Patrick from Solo props, he mentioned that the prop is rated for 5000 rpm max in flight. Not sure what to think about that. I have been using a 26x10 xoar prop with mid 6500 RPM and 39lb static thrust. I know the four blad will be closer to 30lb thrust with this build should be ok as I want this to come in at 30lb+- I'm thinking a 22" prop but 24" seems better as my pos Biela 22x10x4 was useless.
so has anny one within a stones throw of this thread have any info on Solo props and two strok engines. As to the 5000 rpm max,
thanks
TB
so has anny one within a stones throw of this thread have any info on Solo props and two strok engines. As to the 5000 rpm max,
thanks
TB