willig10

Nice

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I have been cutting the skins opening out and fine tuning it.
Gear is temp mounted and I am going to work on beefing up the mount and add any other wood befor I glue in the top skin.



you can see why I do the top skin as all the ribs fro rib 2 threw the gear mount rib are gone. I will make a ribs that will box out the wheel well.



I will ill sacrafice the ability to have flush closed doors to have the robart wheels, they just work the best not to mention they look great. I wish robart would make "thin" version of this wheel, bet they would sell a lot.

Anyways it it is looking good and I'm glade I'm taking the effort to do it right.




TB

stevegauth30

Extra effort is ALWAYS worth it in the end. And in the end you'll have a bad arss warbird. I'd surely buy a set of low profile Robart wheels. Or two.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

The thin foam wheels that come with the kit are 1.32" (33mm) and the robarts are 1.5" (38mm) I'm sure robart could put out a really nice 1.25" aluminumn wheel.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

The top skin on the right wing is cut and fitted.

before a can install the skin I need to cut and install some ribs.
I added a 1/8" birch rib to the gear rib for strength.
Micro-lite 1/8" ply is used as the in between for the spar and the LE.
1/8" birch ply secondary rib to frame out the wheel well.
Some 1/4" balsa glued to rib #2 to suport the CF skin.



The skin is 1/32" thick so 1/16" balsa sheeting will flush it out. I have been using 3/32" so I could sand it flush and skip any filling.




The skin finishs out the gear and wheel wells.
I will add the final rib that will close the wheel well at the inner gear door once I set the gear door locations.
I won't glue the skin in until I have adjusted the gear. I want to use Hysol epoxy as this is the best place for it, the carbon skin to wood.



The Sierra gear has a detachable mounting plate that is heald on by 4 screws. To get the gear in the wing you have to take the plate off then once the gear is in the slot you bolt it back. The plate is screwed to the gear mounts. What's great about this is I can shim the gear between the gear and plate. I need to lower the gear a bit to get the best fit so instead of cutting the ply mounts I just simply install spacers between the gear and mounting plate. I have some 1/8" G-10 that I can make some shim plates out of.




So far the gear and Robart wheels fit pretty good. It's going to be close and every mm counts, will see.



Don't know what I will do as to the inner gear doors yet. To do the scale air cylinder on the LE is not looking good as it is not deep enough unlike on my kit build the wheel well is in the scale location.
With the sports scale location I may go with the servo actuated door or put the cylinder at the spar.





TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Getting the tail wheel done. I glued in the CF skin and will do it a little diferent then on the kit build. The sheeting is thin back here so instead of gluing 1/16" balsa over the CF skin I am using easy sand. I masked off the area and spread some easy sand over the CF. I did this this morning and did the first sanding this afternoon. I hit it again and will do the final sanding in the morning.



TB

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

T/B

Easy sand what and ware ?

Cheers Bob T

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Light weight two part filler, evercoat easy sande, greatest stuff for building. Amazon has it.



TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

The tail wheel gear doors are cut.

first I lay the doors over the cutout, mark it with a sharpi, then cut it with a dremel.



I will be using piano hinges. I have a new mounting method I would like to try.




As for the linkage I want to try and use the 2-56 x 4-40 ballinks.





TB

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks T/B did not realize it was a polyester type product, have you ever had any bonding problems with Epoxy?

Cheers Bob T

And the gear doors look great.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I always save the scraps that are relivent from my lay ups.
I need to make the lip that the doors close onto.




Once the bay is fine trimmed and the doors fitted I will glue the lips in.



Next I will dry fit the hinges in conjunction with the lip.



TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

As mentioned earlier I am doing the gear doors a little diferent then before.

So as on the kit build I did a carbon fiber sub skinned. On this build I used easy sand instead of balsa sheeting.
diferent this time is the lip for the gear doors to close onto. This was glued in instead of being part of the sub skin like on my kit build. This works better as it gives you more controll of the size and location of the opening.

Here I glued in the carbon lip with 5 min epoxy.



Once I have both doors in and working I can fine trim the lip if neded. The lip is what makes the doors flush out with the fuselage when they are closed.



So one of the more apparent changes in the gear doors is how I finish the door and how I attach the hinge to the door and the fuselage. With the doors they need to be removable. I like using the hinge pin that holds the piano hinge together as the means to install and remove the door as one pleases.
The other diferance is the method of building the door and attaching the hinge.

First on the prototype and kit build the door was skinned on the inside with 1/64" birch ply (kit build) ( not the prototype) and then the hinge attached to the door with CA, then bolted to the door. The problemb with this is the hinge is so thin in width and there is not much room for screws. They are very close to the edge.
Here is the door from the prototype.
You can see how close the the edge the holes for the screws were.



On this door I won't glue any ply to the inside, instead I made a frame out of brass strips soldered to the brass hinge.
This will add the rigidity and allow me to spread the bolts threw the door, two per strip.
1/64" ply was glued to the brass strips to fir them out, then the frame was CA'ed to the door.



The apposing hinge has three tabs for bolting to the fuselage. The brass strip allows me to drill and tape them for the 1-72 screws.



Four 1-72 counter sunk screws hold the counter hinge to the fuselage.
The screws will get filled and covered with the finishing aluminum tape.



I removed the the brass pine and replaced it with a slightly smaller piano wire for the hinge pin.
The door is removable now.



The door gets fine tuned to fit the opening, I like to set the opening For the door first as the door is a bit bigger I sand it to fit the opening. In my opinion that is the best way to get a nice tight fit.

I will bolt the frame to the door then finish the door off with easy sand.





I will do the left door then hook them up to the gear, easy as pie


TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I have never had any de bonding when I aply it to fiberglass. I did notice that they make the same product spicificly for fiberglass so I may try that when I get back to my kit build. This product works great on wood.

TB

mirce

Very nice...

Regards

Mirce

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

thanks Mirce, your first P-47 build was a great inspiration and was at fault that I have built (building) three Jugs back to back......so far.

i would love to build a Mister and will use anything you offer for this kit......some day, maybe that will be number four.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

So I just heard from Kevine at JTEC and my muffler shiped today. He is also building me a custome muffler for my kit build to replace the home made muffler. He made some modifications to improve the performance but still fit my needs $125 plus shipping.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Got the other tail gear door done after work today. Now all need to do is hit the doors with a little easy sand and get them ready to finish. I will mount the tail gear and hook up the linkage, I think I remember how to do this!




Linkage should be strait forward, I'm not going to detail thus out, just hook them up, paint the inside of the door and cover them with aluminum tape.





TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

All I need to do now is do the hatch and the fuselage is done. Once my muffler gets here I can install the cowl.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I am working on the linkage, I have one option set and it works dry. I need to do a temp pump to operate the gear so I can see in real time. The one problemb I remember from the prototype was getting the doors open more, but I alwas start with closed then go from there.




TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I can't go any further with the tail gear doors as I need more ball links. So next up is the acsess hatches. I will be doing two. The one on the right side aft of the canopy will house the receiver switch and the ignition charge jack.

I need to layup the sub skin and hatch. I like to build the hatch as a whole with the sub skin then install it after it is hinged.

right side hatch.


The other hatch will be the one on top of the fuselage just before the canopy. This will house the fuel dot, air fill, air gage, and RPM digital read.

Hopfully by then my muffler will be hear and I can install the cowl to finish off the fuselage.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Here is a link to the build index. Page 46, post 1150

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-building-121/11360621-top-flite-gs-p-47-sports-scale-diary-build-46.html

Here is the start of the RTC build.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-build-61.html

Page 61 post 1523

TB

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

TB, how do you choose you hatch locations? Do you first look for a scale hatch location or do you choose a place which is more convenient to the items it will support fuel dot, switches, etc?

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Tony hooked me up with this stuff and now it is all I use on my planes.......... great stuff......

Keith

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

OKC, good question. I first look at what I need to have, switches, fuel dot, air, and anything els for that plane. If I can't put it in the fuselage like a door or window I will look for a scale hatch. On the P-47 there are three or so large hatches that have been used by many modelers. On the prototype and my kit build I used the big top hatch in front of the canopy screen, and the smaller one on the pilots side (left) and used the hand holds to open the hatch.

On the RTC build I will use the larger hatch on the right side aft of the canopy. There is a single hand hold in this side that I will use to open the hatch. This is a big hatch, 3.5" tall by 3" wide. So I will see if I can everything in that one. The second one in front of the canopy on the top of the fuselage is big too, 4" x 3-3/8" this is a good location for fuel dot, air fill and air gage, plus the digital tach for tuning the engine. Basicley it has to be in a scale location or hiden

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I just ordered another bottle, I won't ever use spackel or wood filler ever again, I line up little areas I need to fill so when I mix some up and have leftover, got to be quick because you got about 30 seconds to use it. You can't beat that it is ready to sand in 10-20 min, great stuff. There is another product I want go try and it is basicley the same thing and uses the same hardener, but it is for fiberglass. So when I get back to the kit build I will try it, thus product is great for wood and glass.

Keith, glade you find it useful.

TB