Top Flite GS P-47 sports scale; diary of a build
#2077
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Back at the wing today. I got the left side inner door hooked up and both are working well, next will be the upper and lower doors. My plan is to get the wing done this weekend. I would like to have the plane ready to fly next weekend when I go to Apache pas as they have a really big grass runway, great for maidens. Maybe I will play hooky next week and get her done.
TB
TB
#2080
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Main Gear
The main gear is completed, both sides have working doors.
Once I have the air hooked up I will do final trimming.
They are not perfectly matched but close enough. When I do the Miester I will do the doors first making two identical sets then cut them in.
The gap is a little bigger on the left wing and I will make the right to match as I don't want any binding issues.
The inner doors are adjustable as to the throw on the open position and once I am ready to install them for good I will set them equally.
The gear is set so it is flat to the wing when the doors are closed and the wheel is inside. This gives the wheels a slight toe in. If I want to change that I would have to sand the gear strut to change the angle but I don't think I will do that on this build, a little toe in cant hurt.
TB
Once I have the air hooked up I will do final trimming.
They are not perfectly matched but close enough. When I do the Miester I will do the doors first making two identical sets then cut them in.
The gap is a little bigger on the left wing and I will make the right to match as I don't want any binding issues.
The inner doors are adjustable as to the throw on the open position and once I am ready to install them for good I will set them equally.
The gear is set so it is flat to the wing when the doors are closed and the wheel is inside. This gives the wheels a slight toe in. If I want to change that I would have to sand the gear strut to change the angle but I don't think I will do that on this build, a little toe in cant hurt.
TB
#2081
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Gear door detailing
Now that the gear doors are installed on both sides I am doing the door detailing.
Upper door.
The hinge is a single Robart hinge pin that is flattened on one side and tap threaded with a 1/72 tap, then bolted with two button head screws.
Once the doors are covered I will use stainless steel screws.
The frame is detailed with carbon fiber strips
The linkage is a miss mash of the parts that are supplied with the gear. The ones that come with the gear are to long and hard to get the geometry right so I made my own that are shorter and more manageable.
this method works good and should hold up to the riggers of RC flying.
TB
Upper door.
The hinge is a single Robart hinge pin that is flattened on one side and tap threaded with a 1/72 tap, then bolted with two button head screws.
Once the doors are covered I will use stainless steel screws.
The frame is detailed with carbon fiber strips
The linkage is a miss mash of the parts that are supplied with the gear. The ones that come with the gear are to long and hard to get the geometry right so I made my own that are shorter and more manageable.
this method works good and should hold up to the riggers of RC flying.
TB
#2083
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Inner doors
Detailing on the inner door is done with balsa sticks and .05" thick sheet styrene.
Inner door.
The hinge is a piano hinge with a removable pine.
Bracket that is attached to the door is aluminum angle cut down, tap threaded with two 2/56 button head screws.
I went with a smaller quick link and drilled it out to house the cylinder rood.
A flat grove is cut into the rod as I cut the treads off, this is a much better way to install then with a clevis or ball link.
The door is adjustable so I can get the proper open setting. The cylinder does not close all the way so it keeps constant pressure on the door in the closed position.
The balsa framing is 1/4" sticks installed to give the contouring desired.
I went with the styrene because it is very flexible and will couture to the different elevations of the frame and the curvature of the door.
There is a wheel indentation at the hinge to allow the wheel to pass the door when it goes in and out.
The sides are the same styrene cut and sanded. The styrene is very easy to work with and gives a great surface for painting and detailing.
You can see that the wheel just clears the door at the indentation.
The wheel sits in the wing with plenty of room and still does not bottom out.
Doing the three spar wing really paid off.
TB
Inner door.
The hinge is a piano hinge with a removable pine.
Bracket that is attached to the door is aluminum angle cut down, tap threaded with two 2/56 button head screws.
I went with a smaller quick link and drilled it out to house the cylinder rood.
A flat grove is cut into the rod as I cut the treads off, this is a much better way to install then with a clevis or ball link.
The door is adjustable so I can get the proper open setting. The cylinder does not close all the way so it keeps constant pressure on the door in the closed position.
The balsa framing is 1/4" sticks installed to give the contouring desired.
I went with the styrene because it is very flexible and will couture to the different elevations of the frame and the curvature of the door.
There is a wheel indentation at the hinge to allow the wheel to pass the door when it goes in and out.
The sides are the same styrene cut and sanded. The styrene is very easy to work with and gives a great surface for painting and detailing.
You can see that the wheel just clears the door at the indentation.
The wheel sits in the wing with plenty of room and still does not bottom out.
Doing the three spar wing really paid off.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-09-2015 at 04:14 AM.
#2084
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Lower door
The lower door is balsa stick framed and styrene covered.
The door is held with three 2/56 button head screws tap threaded into the gear lower strut.
Balsa is glued to the door and sanded to the desired contouring.
The styrene skin is glued to the frame, then trimmed and sanded flush, the sides then get glued, trimmed and sanded.
The door tapers as it goes from the bottom to the top as to clear the ole strut.
The wheel will get shimmed with fiber washers to keep the wheel from rubbing on the door.
The wheel sits high in the wheel well and once it is shimmed it will still not bottom out.
I will prime the inner side of the doors, sand, then add rivets and paint yellow. I will cover them first.
TB
The door is held with three 2/56 button head screws tap threaded into the gear lower strut.
Balsa is glued to the door and sanded to the desired contouring.
The styrene skin is glued to the frame, then trimmed and sanded flush, the sides then get glued, trimmed and sanded.
The door tapers as it goes from the bottom to the top as to clear the ole strut.
The wheel will get shimmed with fiber washers to keep the wheel from rubbing on the door.
The wheel sits high in the wheel well and once it is shimmed it will still not bottom out.
I will prime the inner side of the doors, sand, then add rivets and paint yellow. I will cover them first.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-09-2015 at 04:30 AM.
#2085
Beautiful work Tony! Your work is inspiring, and enjoyable to watch as you progress. Kinda off the subject, but could you point me in the right direction and show me how to post pics. Thanks
#2087
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Been fine tuning the gear getting them all lined up and trimmed.
I flipped the wing to operate the gear as they will be when in flight to make sure they are locking in the up.
I added the lip to the lower door for the inner door to close onto.
The finishing touches to the wheel well.
Some pics of how the gear will look with the plane upright.
Next I will cover the doors, prime and detail with rivets.
TB
I flipped the wing to operate the gear as they will be when in flight to make sure they are locking in the up.
I added the lip to the lower door for the inner door to close onto.
The finishing touches to the wheel well.
Some pics of how the gear will look with the plane upright.
Next I will cover the doors, prime and detail with rivets.
TB
#2090
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Back to the wing today.
I laid up the carbon fiber pocket last night and cut it this morning.
I sand the TE of the top of the wing so I get 1.5mm thickness when the CF pocket is glued in.
I glued it in with epoxy.
This is what I am copping, the right side.
This will give me a clean platform to detail.
I will cut and install the hinges today then start sanding the wing.
TB
I laid up the carbon fiber pocket last night and cut it this morning.
I sand the TE of the top of the wing so I get 1.5mm thickness when the CF pocket is glued in.
I glued it in with epoxy.
This is what I am copping, the right side.
This will give me a clean platform to detail.
I will cut and install the hinges today then start sanding the wing.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-15-2015 at 03:38 AM.
#2093
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Thanks Bob,
I am getting some more work done on the wing, actually looks like a P-47 wing now.
The flap hinges are cut and assembled.
They work really well much stronger and stiffer then Robart hinge points.
I need to tune the gaps up, at least 3/16" to 1/4" is needed so the flap and aileron don't bind.
The pocket will finish out nicely as it will be seen when in static display and the flaps are at rest.
I still need to install the flap hinges on the left side.
I started to rough sand the wing to shape the wing tips and the LE.
I got to excited and over sanded the TE of the wing tips where they meet the aileron tip, so I will just cut that out and glue in a piece of balsa, no biggie.
I normally sand the tip with the aileron installed, got excited.
I am ready to glass the center and mount the wing to the fuselage so I can build the belly.
Then final filling and sanding.
TB
I am getting some more work done on the wing, actually looks like a P-47 wing now.
The flap hinges are cut and assembled.
They work really well much stronger and stiffer then Robart hinge points.
I need to tune the gaps up, at least 3/16" to 1/4" is needed so the flap and aileron don't bind.
The pocket will finish out nicely as it will be seen when in static display and the flaps are at rest.
I still need to install the flap hinges on the left side.
I started to rough sand the wing to shape the wing tips and the LE.
I got to excited and over sanded the TE of the wing tips where they meet the aileron tip, so I will just cut that out and glue in a piece of balsa, no biggie.
I normally sand the tip with the aileron installed, got excited.
I am ready to glass the center and mount the wing to the fuselage so I can build the belly.
Then final filling and sanding.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-16-2015 at 04:10 AM.
#2094
Nice work Tony.
I love the no muss no fuse way of dealing with the control surface pockets. Will never go the hard way again.
Kevin
I love the no muss no fuse way of dealing with the control surface pockets. Will never go the hard way again.
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 05-16-2015 at 06:45 PM.
#2095
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Daily progress.
I decided it was time for the wing to meet the fuselage.
Being this is a bashed TFGS P-47 with the wings being kit built and the fuselage being the RTC there is some differences.
The wing fits perfectly in the saddle.
The way the dowels are set on the RTC is further apart and the mounting bolts are way back on the RTC.
I am using 3/8" aluminum dowels and steel bolts for the mounting.
I drilled the 3/8" dowels in and they go threw the front spar, there glued in with epoxy.
I still need to fill in the front but will do that when I do the belly.
I cut out the mounts that were to far back and glued in a new one.
Blind nut is installed and a steel bolt, I need to glue in a washer and a tube when I do the belly.
I test fit the belly and will install that tomorrow, need to go to the HS and get some 1/4" stringers.
Getting there.
TB
I decided it was time for the wing to meet the fuselage.
Being this is a bashed TFGS P-47 with the wings being kit built and the fuselage being the RTC there is some differences.
The wing fits perfectly in the saddle.
The way the dowels are set on the RTC is further apart and the mounting bolts are way back on the RTC.
I am using 3/8" aluminum dowels and steel bolts for the mounting.
I drilled the 3/8" dowels in and they go threw the front spar, there glued in with epoxy.
I still need to fill in the front but will do that when I do the belly.
I cut out the mounts that were to far back and glued in a new one.
Blind nut is installed and a steel bolt, I need to glue in a washer and a tube when I do the belly.
I test fit the belly and will install that tomorrow, need to go to the HS and get some 1/4" stringers.
Getting there.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-16-2015 at 01:55 PM.
#2096
My Feedback: (6)
T/B
I like it, but have to say with 2 dowels I have never had them ware out even after 20 years on my old dragon lady, and never had 1/4 plastic (not nylon) bolts come loose or brake. except when I have dumb thumbed a bird into the ground and I have to admit I have done my share.
But that is just me .
Cheers Bob T
I like it, but have to say with 2 dowels I have never had them ware out even after 20 years on my old dragon lady, and never had 1/4 plastic (not nylon) bolts come loose or brake. except when I have dumb thumbed a bird into the ground and I have to admit I have done my share.
But that is just me .
Cheers Bob T
#2097
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Bob, I'm new at this with relitivly less experience, just seams if I can use an aluminum dowel over a wood one I will. I have never liked the plastic bolts for holding wings on, I have had good results doing things this way so why change, gues I've gone down a serton path and can't look back
TB
TB
#2098
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Wing progress.
I like to lock in T-bolts as they have this tendency to pop out or rotate. If that happens you are screwed and will have to cut it out.
So I use a piece of ply and glue that over the T-bolt and sandwich it in, not going to pop out on me.
The belly pan is glued in and came out pretty good considering it came from my first kit build.
Easy sand to finish it off
TB
I like to lock in T-bolts as they have this tendency to pop out or rotate. If that happens you are screwed and will have to cut it out.
So I use a piece of ply and glue that over the T-bolt and sandwich it in, not going to pop out on me.
The belly pan is glued in and came out pretty good considering it came from my first kit build.
Easy sand to finish it off
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-18-2015 at 01:59 PM.