~~Sig Kadet Brotherhood~~.
#1601
Banned
Slotted flaps
The flaps illustrated in post #1556 are referred to as slotted flaps.
They provide a better lift to drag ratio as they deploy.
Zor
#1603
#1606
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Location: Cape May Court House,
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aggie many years ago I was teaching a guy to fly on GOLDBURG EAGLE he was on his 3-rd solo & I hear " I DON'T HAVE ANY ELEVATOR CONTROL" o sh--t ok no problem just turn to the fiell SH_I WHEN I TURN IT DIVES" no problem just pull the power back a little, now make your turn ok up the power "SH_T IT CAME AROUND" ok now line up on the field "YOU MEAN TURN AGAIN"!!! yup same deal, now pull the power, ok your 2 feet off add a very little power , "SH-T BEST LANDING I MADE SO FAR", the elevator horn had pulled out of the wood! I would guess you would get the same from a KADET never tried it with mine, but most trainers are all set up to fly hands off, IF TRIMED RIGHT. SO GET A GOOD FLYER TO TRIM ANY PLANE WHEN YOU ARE STARTING OUT!!! GOOD LUCK Hank
#1607
So 3/8" square it is. 1/4" square rear spar, that is also where the control surfaces will attach.
I will try to get the templates fully finished today or tomorrow and scan and post.
Thanks To and Mike a ton.
Ken
#1608
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jackson,AL
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Jersy Hank, can fly any of these fairley easy , just had both kits on hand olong with a Bob Tharp Enterprises Venture 60, and a mid-star 40 and also a kadet senior,thank for the input.
#1609
My Feedback: (1)
aggie many years ago I was teaching a guy to fly on GOLDBURG EAGLE he was on his 3-rd solo & I hear " I DON'T HAVE ANY ELEVATOR CONTROL" o sh--t ok no problem just turn to the fiell SH_I WHEN I TURN IT DIVES" no problem just pull the power back a little, now make your turn ok up the power "SH_T IT CAME AROUND" ok now line up on the field "YOU MEAN TURN AGAIN"!!! yup same deal, now pull the power, ok your 2 feet off add a very little power , "SH-T BEST LANDING I MADE SO FAR", the elevator horn had pulled out of the wood! I would guess you would get the same from a KADET never tried it with mine, but most trainers are all set up to fly hands off, IF TRIMED RIGHT. SO GET A GOOD FLYER TO TRIM ANY PLANE WHEN YOU ARE STARTING OUT!!! GOOD LUCK Hank
This reminds me of one of my first training sessions on a buddy box. I had a Hobbico Superstar ARF with preinstalled servos, engine, and other major components. It suddenly lost aileron control, luckily at a high enough altitude that my instructor was able to figure out how to land it. Found out that the entire servo dropped out of the wing into the cabin. Goes to show you can't always trust factory construction. As I remember the servo was just held in with crappy glue.
#1611
That's one nice thing about flat bottom wings, using throttle to gain and lose altitude.
This reminds me of one of my first training sessions on a buddy box. I had a Hobbico Superstar ARF with preinstalled servos, engine, and other major components. It suddenly lost aileron control, luckily at a high enough altitude that my instructor was able to figure out how to land it. Found out that the entire servo dropped out of the wing into the cabin. Goes to show you can't always trust factory construction. As I remember the servo was just held in with crappy glue.
This reminds me of one of my first training sessions on a buddy box. I had a Hobbico Superstar ARF with preinstalled servos, engine, and other major components. It suddenly lost aileron control, luckily at a high enough altitude that my instructor was able to figure out how to land it. Found out that the entire servo dropped out of the wing into the cabin. Goes to show you can't always trust factory construction. As I remember the servo was just held in with crappy glue.
ARF ARF ARF kind of sounds like a hairlip dog doesn't it
#1613
ARF's serve a purpose. They give you something to fly while you build a better one. I prefer to build but some builds just take forever. Some planes can be a handful the first few times up, and having 2 of them, one an ARF the other one hand built, which would you prefer to learn its quirks on and crash a few times. You just know it will happen too. (been there, done that)
Then there are some ARF's that are very well made, the T-Clips that I just received is an example of that. Really well built. Other than adding some triangle stock and epoxy to the firewall, personally prefer it, there is nothing else I need to do to it. This one has SIG all over it, good wood, well built, well packaged, and will go together quickly.
Then there are some ARF's that are very well made, the T-Clips that I just received is an example of that. Really well built. Other than adding some triangle stock and epoxy to the firewall, personally prefer it, there is nothing else I need to do to it. This one has SIG all over it, good wood, well built, well packaged, and will go together quickly.
#1615
ARF's serve a purpose. They give you something to fly while you build a better one. I prefer to build but some builds just take forever. Some planes can be a handful the first few times up, and having 2 of them, one an ARF the other one hand built, which would you prefer to learn its quirks on and crash a few times. You just know it will happen too. (been there, done that)
Then there are some ARF's that are very well made, the T-Clips that I just received is an example of that. Really well built. Other than adding some triangle stock and epoxy to the firewall, personally prefer it, there is nothing else I need to do to it. This one has SIG all over it, good wood, well built, well packaged, and will go together quickly.
Then there are some ARF's that are very well made, the T-Clips that I just received is an example of that. Really well built. Other than adding some triangle stock and epoxy to the firewall, personally prefer it, there is nothing else I need to do to it. This one has SIG all over it, good wood, well built, well packaged, and will go together quickly.
#1616
I have my master rib template made. I will also make a pair of Formica templates from my masters. My all in one printer has a short bed so I had to scan in the front part then the back part.
It is really hard to find straight wood at the hobby shop. I am not going to sweat that again. I learned how a couple or three months ago to steam wood and bend it or straighten it. Same difference in application.
So the the long pieces like the L.E. spars and T.E will be constructed of steamed and laminated 1/8" strips.
This has an added advantage of letting me use spruce lam strips in the inner most section then using scarf joints to transition to Bass then again to Balsa . I can do individual strips that are three different woods this way. The scarf joints will be offset from each other. Horizontal strips for the spar.
I am leaning towards vertical strips for the Wing L.E. I think (and I maybe totally wrong about this) that it will be easier to shape. Like I said horizontal strips for the spars. And on the fence about the T.E.
One note, all the ribs will be cap stripped with 1/16" x 1/4". I maybe should have went with 1/8" . still could but the foil would be 1/8" thicker. That maybe OK?
Yeah I am sure I'm over engineering this, but it won't add any wight, and may safe some. And I found I really like steaming and laminating strips to build bigger sections, it's fun.
I won't have any supplies till after payday, so just getting templates made and working out the details.
Here are the pics of the templates and my drawings of the rib sections.
Ken
My wing panel drawings although only 1/4 scale are way to big to scan. I will draw another at 1/8 scale for posting later.
Please chime in with critiques plus or negative and correction suggestions.
It is really hard to find straight wood at the hobby shop. I am not going to sweat that again. I learned how a couple or three months ago to steam wood and bend it or straighten it. Same difference in application.
So the the long pieces like the L.E. spars and T.E will be constructed of steamed and laminated 1/8" strips.
This has an added advantage of letting me use spruce lam strips in the inner most section then using scarf joints to transition to Bass then again to Balsa . I can do individual strips that are three different woods this way. The scarf joints will be offset from each other. Horizontal strips for the spar.
I am leaning towards vertical strips for the Wing L.E. I think (and I maybe totally wrong about this) that it will be easier to shape. Like I said horizontal strips for the spars. And on the fence about the T.E.
One note, all the ribs will be cap stripped with 1/16" x 1/4". I maybe should have went with 1/8" . still could but the foil would be 1/8" thicker. That maybe OK?
Yeah I am sure I'm over engineering this, but it won't add any wight, and may safe some. And I found I really like steaming and laminating strips to build bigger sections, it's fun.
I won't have any supplies till after payday, so just getting templates made and working out the details.
Here are the pics of the templates and my drawings of the rib sections.
Ken
My wing panel drawings although only 1/4 scale are way to big to scan. I will draw another at 1/8 scale for posting later.
Please chime in with critiques plus or negative and correction suggestions.
#1618
Banned
I have my master rib template made. I will also make a pair of Formica templates from my masters.
Here are the pics of the templates and my drawings of the rib sections.
Ken
My wing panel drawings although only 1/4 scale are way to big to scan. I will draw another at 1/8 scale for posting later.
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>
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Please chime in with critiques plus or negative and correction suggestions.
Looking at the picture I see the two ribs and at the left bottom ( of the pic ) two pieces; one is marked aileron and assume the other is for the flaps.
I wonder what the two pieces at the top left are for ?
I also wonder how come their height ( width in the pic ) is further back wider than the leading edge of these pieces.
Just curious.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 08-21-2014 at 09:23 AM. Reason: reformatting
#1619
Ken
#1620
flyingagin,
Looking at the picture I see the two ribs and at the left bottom ( of the pic ) two pieces; one is marked aileron and assume the other is for the flaps.
I wonder what the two pieces at the top left are for ?
I also wonder how come their height ( width in the pic ) is further back wider than the leading edge of these pieces.
Just curious.
Zor
Looking at the picture I see the two ribs and at the left bottom ( of the pic ) two pieces; one is marked aileron and assume the other is for the flaps.
I wonder what the two pieces at the top left are for ?
I also wonder how come their height ( width in the pic ) is further back wider than the leading edge of these pieces.
Just curious.
Zor
Some of the problem is how I arranged things to fit my limited scanner bed. My last multifunction printer had a much bigger scanner bed.
There are two templates for flaps and two for ailerons. The fronts are smaller the the wing T.E.
When I was drawing the drawing up I had to slight reshape the aft top line of the wing rib templates and the control surface templates to achieve an even line up. I had failed to account for the gap at the wing T.E. to control surface L.E. The gap is actually about 3/4" Between the templates ends. Rear spar (1/4") and the shaped L.E of the control surfaces is 1/2". thus the size of gap. Having failed to fully acount for that meant some rework.
Still may have a bit of rework..
So I took one more scan of the parts aligned lit the actual wing and control surfaces should be and the correct distances. Hope this helps.
And PLEASE point out anything I may have missed or if my reasoning is wrong or lacking. Now is the time to find out.
Ken
#1621
This is so tempting!
For kicks I popped teh OS off the Kadet to see how the FG-11 fits. If weight wasn't a factor I might just do it, but adding a second battery and ignition module to teh LT-40 is not something I wish to do right now, however the FG-11 bolts right in. It even sticks out the exact same distance from front mounting hole to back of spinner.
#1623
I do have a 2700 Life with dual outputs that I plan to use in the T-Clips. That would put it just under 7 pounds. I did give it a thought putting the FG into the LT-40, but that would be too much work on a plane that flies perfectly with the OS.
#1624
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I test flew a guys LT-40EG today, nice plane flew with zero trim adjustments, and seems super well made. BTW he powered it with a OS .46, seems the only difference between a normal LT-40 and the EG is the EG doesn't have the cheeks next to the engine.