TomCrump

That's the way I did mine. I wonder why more don't use that methods.

acdii

It can beat the hell out of the rudder when flying off rough ground. I isolated the tail wheel from the rest of the rudder linkages using the two springs and collar method. There is enough spring pressure to move the tail wheel but give some shock absorption when it hit bumps to protect the servo and rudder.

flyingagin

Sometimes I drive my tail off the opposite side of the rudder servo with another run of Nyrod. I use some type of servo saver though. Two springs on either side of the servo arm connection. Space can drive you to distraction at that point though. It has the advantage of letting me very easily get a different drive ratio to the tail wheel than the rudder. On the outside it is very clean. On the inside it my tax you bad vocabulary. I have used the springs from the rudder with great success also. You can get different ratios there also. I have also been known to use a separate servo to drive a tail wheel or nose wheel.

What ever works is the right way

Ken

TomCrump

I had over 100 flights, on mine, flying off grass.

BigTeeEldorado

Dave, Don't know if it is because it is an LA or just new but she would not turn that 3-blade only about 8000. We tried several size props today and settled on an 11X5 APC at 12000 rpm. I'm hoping as the engine gets broke in a little I find a little more Umph! I really want to find an airplane to use that prop on. There is no question I weight more than I should with those big tires etc etc and more drag with all the stuff I added but I feel like I am still a little bit under powered even with the 46.

On the plus side though we are getting airborne in about 4 ft and I bet I could (well maybe someone a little younger) run alongside the plane it lands so slow. Mission accomplished in that respect..

By the way (edit #3) The LT25 has a pull-pull setup that drives the tail wheel. Works really well.... comes designed into the kit but would not be hard to make one up. Pretty simple and effective design. I have never had any trouble with it on any of the LT25's I've owned.

Except for..... Broke mine off today cause I am constantly landing tail wheel first with this plane and bending it up. I grabbed it to bend it back down and it snapped off on me. Fashioned a new one this evening with the same gauge wire but I think I'll be looking for something a little heavier soon. I'll probably just drill out the mounts so I can use heavier wire. The design is not the problem just the gauge of wire the kit uses.

skylark-flier

Yeah, understood. Actually, it's just your landing technique with this particular plane, and you know it ... and I can't say I'm surprised. Those tail-first landings will beat a tailwheel strut to death - I think I'd jump about 2 gauges before I tried another wire. Y'know, a wire that can hold up your car - that should be almost enough. LOLOLOLOL

BigTeeEldorado

You are absolutely right....I am not ashamed and I did a bunch more of those tail first landings today. Sunday has a whole new group of flyers to show off in front of. It bent up again but hasn't broken off yet. When it does I'll stick something massive back up in there per your suggestion

I am getting better results today out of the new LA46. Touchy on the needle setting still......it is pumping out tons of smoke to the point you think it's got to be running too rich but if i move it only a couple clicks it gets hot and I have to land quick and richen it back up. Bottom line she is loosing up a little and I am getting better performance.

skylark-flier

Yeah, I think it's great the way your LT handles, and those tail-first landings are AWESOME!! I certainly wouldn't worry about the smoke, she's just telling you there's enough lub on the engine - and that's ALWAYS a good thing.

I had 3 of my planes out yesterday and all 3 were smoking more than usual, but then the humidity around here this week is right around 90-100% so it's not unexpected. The CraftAir Butterfly and Kadet Mk-II both had newbies on a buddy box, the MidStar-40 was all mine. Butterfly's driven by an old OS26Surpass (which ALWAYS smokes like mad), Kadet's got the OS40LA and MidStar's got an old OS46AX driving her.

Ye gads, it just hit me that every one of my operational R/C planes has an OS engine on them. Fox & Enya still drive all my C/L planes though.

BigTeeEldorado

OS has been synonymous with dependability ever since I can remember, so there is a testimonial to that.

I tend to forget these engines rely on the ambient to cool themselves down because they are so dependable. I was figuring the 46 was new, tight and wearing in still, so it needed a little extra lube in there and did a good job of telling me that. You reminded me that when the morning starts out at 83 degrees and finishes at 100, I should expect some re-tuning along the way just for that reason as well. It is a testament to the engineering in these little engines that they do survive goofs like myself.

Hey did you ever find any photos of that C/L Bomber you did for your Dad?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

A handy part to have is the double sided control arm SIG uses on the rudder of their 1/5th scale Cub. I have ordered several spares to use on other aircraft. I use whatever tail, bracket that suits my fancy and connect the control arm with a spring to each side then connect the pushrod to the rudder. On airplanes with a concealed tail wheel control arm I use a separate pushrod with a Dubro Servo Saver. http://shop.dubro.com/p/control-over...aver-qty-pkg-1

BigTeeEldorado

Where do you get that double sided control arm....got a link on that one? I spent a week one time tying to find something for an application I had and this might be what I was looking for.

flyingagin

OS and ST have been my go to engines For a very long time.
For four stroke sport flying, just can't seem to beat a Saito. Sound so good and simply work every time with out dead sticks when broke in, tuned right and fuel tank correctly located. But then the same could be said of OS. Have not tried Magnum or ASP four strokes yet. Might someday.
But I would sell DAVE for enough to buy 3 Saito .30s. Oh wait, I don't think I could get that much for him.

I loved Enyas When I was a kid and control line flying. Never like Fox engines. Nowadays I only run a throttled engine for control with 2.4 rc on it. I made a Control Line handle with a throttle trigger on it, and quick change lines bar so the handle works with any lines and plane. Spectral lines.
Hey Dave you still fly any of your control lines?

Ken

acdii

I had a Magnum 52 FS that I put on an Eflite T-34 PTS that I converted to glow. That engine ran on on e back flip right from the start, and I gave that plane to my friend in trade for an OS 70 FS. He flew it the other day and it is running better each time. In fact it runs better than my OS 52 on the LT-40, I dont think the OS was broke in the same way I did the Magnum as it has taken a few gallons of Wildcat 15 to get to where it is now. Still cant backflip start the OS though.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I order them through my LHS when he orders from SIG or you can order directly from SIG.
If all you want is the control arm use this (From the SIG catalog I downloaded from their site) :

SIG HEAVY DUTY RUDDER CONTROL HORN
Designed for cable control systems on giant scale models.
Precision molded of top quality super strong nylon. Ideal
for attaching tailwheel steering springs to rudder.
Order No.: SIGSH716

Ok if you want the whole set up for the tail wheel pick one of these:
SIG TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
Add a touch of class to your next giant scale or giant sport model with
one of these realistic tail wheel assemblies. Borrowing from full-scale
practice, our tail wheel assemblies use hardened spring-steel leaf
springs for maximum shock absorption. They both feature a unique
molded nylon tail wheel bearing, a formed tail wheel wire, and
complete hardware. The molded nylon steering arm and heavy-duty
rudder control horn are connected by high-quality coiled steering
springs. Everything's included except the tail wheel itself.
Large Tailwheel Assembly
For models weighing 8 - 16 lbs. 3/32 in. tail wheel wire accepts up
to 1-1/2 in. dia. tailwheels.
Order No.: SIGSH729
Extra-Large Tailwheel Assembly
For models weighing over 15 lbs. 1/8 in. tail wheel wire accepts up
to2-1/4 in. dia. tailwheels.
Order No.: SIGSH730

slofly1900

My Feedback: (1)

why not use 2 normal control horns back to back . use what size you need.

aggieman

Hey brotherhood,would like to hear some peoples 2-cents worth on something, is the goldburg eagle 2 laser cut kit halfway compariable to the lt-40? I know the lt-40 has longer wingspan and pretty much all sig kits have great wood, also have herd that the lt-40 floated a little better, but would like a little imput from some of you r/c veterans out there that maybe have delt with both.

TomCrump

Your idea works perfectly well. I've done it several times, and I usually have spares laying around here.

acdii

The Sig one piece is a lot easier to use, but double horns work well provided you beef up the area you plan to install them with some ply sandwiched in that area.

spaceworm

I always beef up that area in any case; either with inlaid ply or with thin CA. whether using double horns or not. Threaded rod and washers and nuts, or purpose made thread type "horns", are another option for linking springs to a tailwheel.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Depends on your flying skill or lack there of. If you are just starting out with little or no experience I would go with the LT-40 it just about flies itself when balanced properly. If you got some stick time and can solo you can go with the Goldberg if you just want to be different. The LT-40 seems to be the most popular trainer out there.

acdii

With the LT-40 you can build it as is, then once you gain skills you can get a wing kit and modify the dihedral to low or nearly flat, add tail dragger gear and have a blast with it. I learned on an Apprentice, then built the LT with 1" dihedral, bolt on wing, and tail dragger. This plane is a joy to fly, vertical, upside down, inside/outside loops, barrel rolls, snap rolls, the only thing it cant do is axial rolls, but it stands nicely on its tail for a few seconds, then can be flipped on its spar.

flyingagin

Does any one know the size of the main spars on a Kadet SR? I only cut 1/4" slots but I am thinking that is way not enough. I am extending each wing panel 1 foot, so 102 inch span.
Other than that, and the hole for the joiner tube, my rib templates are ready to go to work.
I will mount my main gear on the wing (low winger) and that is where the center sheeting will end.

So 1/4' just some marginal to me.

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Acording to the Kadet Senior manual I just downloaded from SIG the wing construction starts off with step 1: "Using several ribs as guages, pin down a 1/4"x1/2"x36" front bottom spar and rear 3/16"x3/8"x36" rear bottom spar on the plan.". Thanks SIG!

acdii

I like that SIG has the manuals online, now if only we could get them to sell copies of plans from discontinued kits.

flyingagin

Thanks Mike I was pretty sure 1/4 square was to small.
I am adding a foot to each panel so Maybe I should go even more than the stock spar. Or stay stock size but use bass or spruce for the inner and then scarf joint in balsa for the out section for a composite spar. All I have to do then is deepen the spar slots.

The templates for the ailerons and flap little riblets are ready to go. The flaps and ailerons will have a balsa L.E and be sheeted with 1/16.

So payday some glue and resume my two other builds plus see how much of a start on this I can get.

Ken