Zor

BigTeeEldorado,

The flaps illustrated in post #1556 are referred to as slotted flaps.

They provide a better lift to drag ratio as they deploy.

Zor

TomCrump

My Ryan has a 102" span. I used a 3/8" square spar set up on it.

flyingagin

Now that sounds right Tom. That is what I will go with.

I only have to enlarge the slots.

Ken

TomCrump

Here's are a few pics.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Sounds like 3/8" would be a good idea. I know when I built the LT-40 at around 70" it had a 1/4 X1/2 main spar with a short doubler of 1/4X1/2 for about the first 10" or so.

Jersy Hank

aggie many years ago I was teaching a guy to fly on GOLDBURG EAGLE he was on his 3-rd solo & I hear " I DON'T HAVE ANY ELEVATOR CONTROL" o sh--t ok no problem just turn to the fiell SH_I WHEN I TURN IT DIVES" no problem just pull the power back a little, now make your turn ok up the power "SH_T IT CAME AROUND" ok now line up on the field "YOU MEAN TURN AGAIN"!!! yup same deal, now pull the power, ok your 2 feet off add a very little power , "SH-T BEST LANDING I MADE SO FAR", the elevator horn had pulled out of the wood! I would guess you would get the same from a KADET never tried it with mine, but most trainers are all set up to fly hands off, IF TRIMED RIGHT. SO GET A GOOD FLYER TO TRIM ANY PLANE WHEN YOU ARE STARTING OUT!!! GOOD LUCK Hank

flyingagin

That is what I marked on the templates yesterday evening before retreating from the blast furnace. Well uh garage. It is just the lack of insulation and that all the attic heat goes into the garage. And our temps although not to high has had a really high humidity. So if I don't have other things going in the morning that is when I work out there.

So 3/8" square it is. 1/4" square rear spar, that is also where the control surfaces will attach.

I will try to get the templates fully finished today or tomorrow and scan and post.

Thanks To and Mike a ton.

Ken

aggieman

Jersy Hank, can fly any of these fairley easy , just had both kits on hand olong with a Bob Tharp Enterprises Venture 60, and a mid-star 40 and also a kadet senior,thank for the input.

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

That's one nice thing about flat bottom wings, using throttle to gain and lose altitude.
This reminds me of one of my first training sessions on a buddy box. I had a Hobbico Superstar ARF with preinstalled servos, engine, and other major components. It suddenly lost aileron control, luckily at a high enough altitude that my instructor was able to figure out how to land it. Found out that the entire servo dropped out of the wing into the cabin. Goes to show you can't always trust factory construction. As I remember the servo was just held in with crappy glue.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Stuff like that servo dropping out are a good reason to take up building!

BigTeeEldorado

There are good ARF's and there are bad ARF's. I've seen some put together with hot glue. I have never bought one but I've had some given to me.

ARF ARF ARF kind of sounds like a hairlip dog doesn't it

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You know I never thought of it that way but you're right!

acdii

ARF's serve a purpose. They give you something to fly while you build a better one. I prefer to build but some builds just take forever. Some planes can be a handful the first few times up, and having 2 of them, one an ARF the other one hand built, which would you prefer to learn its quirks on and crash a few times. You just know it will happen too. (been there, done that)

Then there are some ARF's that are very well made, the T-Clips that I just received is an example of that. Really well built. Other than adding some triangle stock and epoxy to the firewall, personally prefer it, there is nothing else I need to do to it. This one has SIG all over it, good wood, well built, well packaged, and will go together quickly.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I think SIG went out of their way to insure the quality of their ARFs like the T Clips unfortunately a lot of mass merchandisers are more interested in price point and margins than selling a superior product.

BigTeeEldorado

No argument, like I said there are good ones and there are bad ones. Sig is a reputable manufacturer that brands their name with quality every time. Not surprised your T-Clips is high quality.

flyingagin

I have my master rib template made. I will also make a pair of Formica templates from my masters. My all in one printer has a short bed so I had to scan in the front part then the back part.

It is really hard to find straight wood at the hobby shop. I am not going to sweat that again. I learned how a couple or three months ago to steam wood and bend it or straighten it. Same difference in application.

So the the long pieces like the L.E. spars and T.E will be constructed of steamed and laminated 1/8" strips.
This has an added advantage of letting me use spruce lam strips in the inner most section then using scarf joints to transition to Bass then again to Balsa . I can do individual strips that are three different woods this way. The scarf joints will be offset from each other. Horizontal strips for the spar.
I am leaning towards vertical strips for the Wing L.E. I think (and I maybe totally wrong about this) that it will be easier to shape. Like I said horizontal strips for the spars. And on the fence about the T.E.

One note, all the ribs will be cap stripped with 1/16" x 1/4". I maybe should have went with 1/8" . still could but the foil would be 1/8" thicker. That maybe OK?

Yeah I am sure I'm over engineering this, but it won't add any wight, and may safe some. And I found I really like steaming and laminating strips to build bigger sections, it's fun.

I won't have any supplies till after payday, so just getting templates made and working out the details.

Here are the pics of the templates and my drawings of the rib sections.

Ken

My wing panel drawings although only 1/4 scale are way to big to scan. I will draw another at 1/8 scale for posting later.

Please chime in with critiques plus or negative and correction suggestions.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Those look good. I found I like to use round hardwood dowels that you can buy at HomeDepot for leading edges. You can get the dowels in up to 4 foot lengths and they are ding proof.

Zor

flyingagin,

Looking at the picture I see the two ribs and at the left bottom ( of the pic ) two pieces; one is marked aileron and assume the other is for the flaps.

I wonder what the two pieces at the top left are for ?
I also wonder how come their height ( width in the pic ) is further back wider than the leading edge of these pieces.

Just curious.

Zor

flyingagin

Had never thought of that. But my L.E. is only round at the very front. I would have to make new templates

Ken

flyingagin

I think maybe I should included these two pics. My bad..
Some of the problem is how I arranged things to fit my limited scanner bed. My last multifunction printer had a much bigger scanner bed.
There are two templates for flaps and two for ailerons. The fronts are smaller the the wing T.E.
When I was drawing the drawing up I had to slight reshape the aft top line of the wing rib templates and the control surface templates to achieve an even line up. I had failed to account for the gap at the wing T.E. to control surface L.E. The gap is actually about 3/4" Between the templates ends. Rear spar (1/4") and the shaped L.E of the control surfaces is 1/2". thus the size of gap. Having failed to fully acount for that meant some rework.

Still may have a bit of rework..

So I took one more scan of the parts aligned lit the actual wing and control surfaces should be and the correct distances. Hope this helps.

And PLEASE point out anything I may have missed or if my reasoning is wrong or lacking. Now is the time to find out.

Ken

acdii

For kicks I popped teh OS off the Kadet to see how the FG-11 fits. If weight wasn't a factor I might just do it, but adding a second battery and ignition module to teh LT-40 is not something I wish to do right now, however the FG-11 bolts right in. It even sticks out the exact same distance from front mounting hole to back of spinner.

flyingagin

Hey acdii. Alot of guys are just running one battery with out issue. That would cut the some of the extra wight..

Ken

acdii

I do have a 2700 Life with dual outputs that I plan to use in the T-Clips. That would put it just under 7 pounds. I did give it a thought putting the FG into the LT-40, but that would be too much work on a plane that flies perfectly with the OS.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I test flew a guys LT-40EG today, nice plane flew with zero trim adjustments, and seems super well made. BTW he powered it with a OS .46, seems the only difference between a normal LT-40 and the EG is the EG doesn't have the cheeks next to the engine.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Under 7 sounds like a good weight for a LT-40.