tomclark

Speaking about looking like an airhead, my turn.
Being an old geezer, I decided years ago to forget the CAD and just use a pencil. Drawing by hand goes very fast. I never do a build according to plans, as I like to build things larger, so I just look at a small drawing (like the kind they used to put in the magazines) and just sketch it out to whatever size I feel like at the moment. I only draw the outlines to scale, and then glue in sticks to whatever looks right. After the first few kits it becomes easy. Anyone who has built a few kits will soon develop a sense of what kind of construction they like best, and it is a lot easier to go with that than to try to follow confusing plans.

To illustrate, here is my sketch that I drew from a really old small Kadet drawing. Plane ended up 90" span, 70" fuse, 61 engine, and 7.5 lbs. Note how the wing is far beefier than the kit wings. I always thought the kits were a bit weak, but ok if they are flown gently in a trainer mode…

Flies like a dream. Every time I take it to the field the guys line up for a few minutes of stick time. Think a future project may be a 120" version with multiple bomb bays.

More photos in my gallery.

BigTeeEldorado

I crack me up sometimes!! But ya, I think I want to learn CAD but pencil works way better for me and your shop is way to organized.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Nope, you just contributed to the many side trips we take along the way!

BigTeeEldorado

Keep us posted on what you do with your STOL. This thread has many many variations on that theme from what I did with slats and junkers to canards. Happy hunting!

spaceworm

Thanks for the plans for the Kadet MkI. I have one with a MkII wing but I had no plans. Thanks again. Have a Merry Christmas and a Good Flight.

Sincerely, Richard

Zor

Hello All,

This thread is the main thread I planned to post the drawings and pictures of modifications to the design of my Kadet Senior build.

Without my request I was favored to be granted Brotherhood in the "Sig Kadet Brotherhood".
Being grateful for that I went and bought a Kadet Senior kit, an OS 55AX engine, wheels and other needed items and build it to justify this favor.

After studying the manual and the drawings I decided on many modifications and while discussing one with another fellow I was told that this discussion was not specific to the Kadet and would be better in another thread or a new thread ( words to that effect ).

Earlier in this thread I have posted some drawings and pics of some of many planned modfications.
I am now avoiding to do that. I always try to avoid any controversies with others in the brotherhood or with anyone.

That now highly restrict my participation in this thread dedicated to building Kadets.

Most mods drawings have now been done and I expect to start building the wings in the next few days.

Zor

flyingagin

Hey Zor if you have another thread going where you are posting your drawings and pictures I for one would love to for you to post a link so I could watch you.
I participate in a lot of threads and have a few of my own as well.

Ken

rtn9105

My Feedback: (35)

I would love to see any other build threads you have as well, to me a huge part of the hobby is seeing what others are doing with their version of a plane that I have or have had.
When the Kadet brotherhood was started the very first post stated that it was for all types of Kadets so I can't think of a better spot to post any mods you do to your Senior Kadet than right here.

Zor

that I know to be dedicated to the kit building of Kadets.
I think building from scratch ( drawings only and no kit ) would also be appropriate.

I have not seen any recent postings of such activity.
Like RCKen said this is one thread that has become "a Super Thread" in which variations of the main topic is tolerated.

I am not posting my Kadet Senior work in any other thread. I really thought they belonged here but for my case anyway it is not so. It seems unique but it does not bother me; I simply cooperate with the thought of someone. No one previously objected to the idea of discussing mods as not being specific to the Kadet Sr. even though the mod was to apply to a Kadet Sr. at least mine/

I think no one is loosing anything as I have been upteen times described as ignorant, knowing nothng about this hobby, having never built a model and such comments ( remarks ).

I am still planning to post some pictures of some components; for example the uncovered wings with their structure changes. That will likely go into January 2015.

WISHING EVERYONE A MERRY X'MAS AND A HAPPY, HEALTHY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR.

Zor . . . a foreigner of the USA beyond my control at birth but grew to five years old by Central Park in New York city.

Zor

Illustration of two laminated ribs that will receive the snap-in ends of the wing struts.

The wire coming out of the rib's bottom at an angle toward the bottom side of the fuselage where an aluminum strip will be installed across the fuselage to receive the bottom ends of the struts. When the wing's end is snapped out the struts will pivot toward the tail and remain attached to the fuselage bottom.

Unlock the snap-in, move the strut backward 3/4" and just lower it out of the wing rib.

Under the wings the strut will be flattened over the wire that will form an eyelet and a permanent 4-40 small screw will hold the wire inside the strut. The strut will have a bevel angle to become flush with the wing bottom surface. A similar arrangement at the fuselage but tightened just enoug to allow pivoting. Care will be taken to avoid any flop.

The outside layers of the ribs has intentionally been cut a bit oversize to be sanded to the inner layer which has the original airfoil contour.

All indications seem to show that it will work fine.

Zor

P.S.: Ya ... time to put the skis on in northern latitudes.
The winter 'cat's house at bottom right of first pic.

Zor

Hey folks,

Specs are _ _ _

No play at the junction of the strut and the wing spar.
Strut oriented properly.
Snap it in and snap it out.
Locked so it cannot come out in flight.
The angle of the strut with the wing bottom is 18.58 degrees and the length of the strut is 25 inches

An experiment has now been done to meet the above specifications..
Please see attached pictures.

The end of the strut has just enough clearance to the rib for the thickness of the finish covering.
A pencil sketch shows how the wire is shaped and inserted inside the strut and the screw is thightened inside the circle of the wire. The strut has been flatened on the wire.

I am postiing for whoever is interested in my proceedings.
Any feedback is appreciated.

Zor

spaceworm

With all due respects, my only concern is that in flattening the area of the strut for the screw, the integrity, in bending, of the strut may have been compromised. Have you reinforced the strut internally with music wire or hardwood dowel.

A Merry Christmas to All and to All a Good Flight.

Sincerely, Richard

Zor

Richard ( aka spaceworm)

Your concern is appreciated but I think not applicable in this case.
The strut is not bent and after installation will work in tension or compression helping any flexing of the wings.

The outside of the strut initially in its thickness measures 0.185" ( inch )
The wall thickness is 0.015"
The inside is 0.155 ( measured ) Also 0.185 minus 0.030 = 0.155
The wire is 0.072" diameter piano wire inside the strut.
The flattening of the strut done with visegrip against the inside wire gives _ _ _
0.155 minus 0.072 = 0.0830 of looseness so the flattening is moving each side of the strut by 0.0415"

As the flattening was done the long axis of the strut cross section was in the vise to prevent it from changing size.

The screw is a metal screw that threaded in both walls of the strut and its extra length ground down.

Hope this explanation helps the understanding of the pictures.

Merry X'mas

Zor

Battle Short

My Feedback: (5)

Finally finished my LT-40 EG ARF. I converted it to a taildragger, as I talked about doing before. It is powered by an OS .46AX. I have yet to maiden it-weather/timing hasn't worked out yet but it will.


Below are some pics of what I did. Originally I was going to glue a plywood doubler to the bottom of the open bay immediately behind the fuselage former at the LE of the main wing. I already had the doubler made up so decided to use it but cut out a piece of the bottom of the fuselage in front of the former at LE.


I then made and glued in some bracing around the edges, and one at the front of the cutout and two at an angle as shown (reminds me of a birdhouse). Front of plane is to left in the photos below. I think this made for a solid mount that will distribute the forces over a wider area of the fuselage. If not then it might just be a larger piece of the plane that separates... Third photo is the plywood in place. Everything is bonded with 30 minute ZAP epoxy. I also fuelproofed everything I could reach with the 30 minute epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol. Two 6-32 screws into blind nuts secure the landing gear.


First photo below is the plane on my Vanessa rig when I was moving the battery pack around to balance it. Second is the dry weight of the plane, third is the finished plane. I like the bush look the 4 1/2" wheels gave it with the DuBro LG. Also they will be functional when I take it to my parents to fly-they have a dirt road I use as a runway that can be a bit rough. Tail wheel is in free caster mode, I may add a micro servo if it is unmanageable, but I have flown other planes with a free tailwheel with success.


Glenn

Zor

Hello Glenn,

You can hate me for this posting.

Pic 1 .... cannot figure what is shown,
Pic 2 and 3 .... Do not know where that is in the model,
Pic 4 .... Some planking for an open bay somewhere ?
Pic 5 .... Looks like the CG is nearly at the leading edge.
Pic 6 .... 6.29 what ? I guess it is 6.29 pounds of weight.
Pic 7 .... very beautiful nice looking model with nice paint scheme.
............ An engine inverted would make a nice fuselage front end.

You deserve praise for having built it.

Zor

Zor

Reference post #2211 . . . .

Two pics to show the angular position of the wing struts that the previous post ( #2211 ) did not show.

Zor

Battle Short

My Feedback: (5)

Well that sure took the fun out of my post

Here are some more pics just for you Zor, worth 2,000 words


Same part of plane with LG attached.


Same area, more distance.


Glenn

foodstick

Battle, did you put blind nuts in the plywood when you reinforced that area for the landing gear? I was just wondering if you have enough wood in there to keep the gear from pulling loose.. Being an LT 40 HARD LANDINGS AREN'T THAT COMMON oops, darn cap button !

Battle Short

My Feedback: (5)

Yes, blind nuts are in plywood. It's 1/8" that is doubled to 1/4" over the rear half. A bit closer to the rear edge that I really wanted but I already had them in. Hind sight I should have put in a second set so I would have more options.


Glenn

Zor

Glenn,

Thanks _ _ _ be assured that my post was because I have deep interest in your work and not intended to criticise; just trying to see what was going on.

I now understand that pic 2 and 3 are reinforcements at the fuuselage bottom where the landing gear is fastened.

Pic 4 closes that compartment and receives the botls (screws) holding the landing gear.

I still do not understand the first pic that is all dark with some white streaks in it at random.

Am I wrong seeing from the picture that the CG is nearly at the leading edge ?

Editing in blue. I see darkk brown stuff to the right of the red line that look like the front parts of ribs. It is difficult to see the suspension lines with this backgound.
I will assume that the CG is in proper range.

I was thinking ' What are all the readers making of this ? '

Again thanks for making me feel better ... ...

Zor

Zor

The joiners were laminated a tiny bit oversze.

They have now been filed and sanded to their final dimensions.

The 2 degrees of dihedral is confirmed. The wingroots boxes into which they will insert will be built around them with them in place when the wings are being built.

Zor

Battle Short

My Feedback: (5)

First pic is of the same area as pics 2-4 after I cut the covering prior to removing it and the balsa. Since I was cutting it I did not iron out the wrinkles, that may be the random white streaks you are seeing.

The CG is on the small white strip between the red and black. The silver plumb bob is pointing to it. I did not have my camera squared to the plumb line which is white white, suspension lines are green.

Oh, and it is 6.29 pounds-I'm trying to imagine flying a LT-40 at 6.29 ounces, grams or kilos (the other options of this scale)

Glenn

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Glenn

I would put a third bolt though the LG where you have access to the backside through the oval cutout. The way you have it now I'm afraid it will torque the LG off, you basically have a footprint only as wide as the "T" nuts diameter, putting a third bolt through would make it a much broader footprint.

I think most guys understood the pictures, I liked the triangulated support. You'll love the way the LT-40 flies.

Rich

Battle Short

My Feedback: (5)

That's an excellent suggestion Rich, the reasoning makes a lot of sense. Thank you. Bad news is the fuel tank is installed above the hole you are talking about-just means a bit more work but I will follow the advice.

Glenn

TomCrump

Thanks for posting the excellent pics, Glenn. As already stated, I'm sure that most understood the content.

You'll really enjoy your LT-40. Please keep us informed on the maiden.