acdii

Battle, that is the exact same gera I use. The one thing I did different is used the 4 holes it came with and use 1/4/20 nylon bolts. Much easier to replace snapped off bolts than the ripped out bottom section when it hits something, been there, done that.

Zor

Yes Tom _ _ _ you may be correct about being sure "most understood the content".

Certainly most do and likely all do after it was explained following my post.

I had no idea where the pics applied in the model and wondered about the readers not familiar with this model.

Who does not care does not ask questions. Thanks for your comment.

Zor

acerc

LOL! I just read this thread out of boredom, I have never had an LT-40 and found it to be very understandable. There's only one that I know of that would not understand.

I would also recommend the added bolts on the landing gear.

skylark-flier

It might work well for you if that particular bolt comes down from the inside, then cut off after the nut on the outside. I had to do that when I replaced the rubber bands with bolts on my LiveWire Champ a couple weeks ago, but all 3 of mine come down from the inside. No big thing, you just see a little bit more metal hanging out.

Zor

I am also laughing L O L
I regret your boredom likely due to lack of interest.

What I did not understand ( the only one according to you) is the location of the pictures in the model. Myself and no doubt many readers now know after my posting was replied to. Thanks for that.

I am glad you got a kick of referring to my lack of knowing where the pics applied.
Your picking on me does not bother me as it is obvious where it comes from.
I also saw your picking on a moderator recently.

A third bolt would not help much if it is in line with the previous two. The third bolt should be nearer the tail of the model by at least 1 1/2" or 2 ".

Meanwhile please accept my best wishes for a Merry X'mas and best to you and yours in the New Year.

Zor

Zor

Really I wish we would see more of what I understand to be the main topic of this thead; namely "kit or scratch building of some variation of the Sig Kadet product line.

I do believe that modifications of the original design are (should be) proper.
Some fellows have also expressed their point of view on this encouraging postings that have to do with modifications.

I would kindly suggest that picture backgrounds avoid confusing a two dimensional presentation on our computer monitors. It is often difficult to distingish between the work illustrated and the background of the picture particularly if the background items are close behind.

I think it is easy enough to move the item being pictured to a background that is obviously a floor or a wall or of a reasonably uniform nature.

What say fellows ?

Just my thoughts that I try my best to put into practice.

Zor.

Battle Short

My Feedback: (5)

Tom C and Robert, Thank You for the kind words and encouragement.

acdii, I believe it was your earlier suggestion for this landing gear that I followed when I purchased it. I do like how it looks and it feels like it will be a good match for this plane. I already had the 6-32 blind nuts installed so went with them, hopefully my mount will hold up to my landings. If not then I'll use 1/4" nylon for the rebuild...

Dave, good advice and I appreciate it, but I didn't see your post until after I had already added another screw/blind nut as follows.

As you can see the tank is held in with a lot of RTV Silicone so I really did not want to remove it if I could work around it. Firewall is to the left in this first photo.


After looking it over I decided I could work around it, the LG is actually aft of the rear of the tank. I began by drilling a pilot hole (barely visible) from the bottom through the LG where I wanted it all the way through the bottom of the fuse and the platform the that tank is mounted on. Tail of plane is to the top of the following photos.


Next I used my 1/2" brad point bit to drill a hole centered on the pilot hole, only through the platform the tank is mounted on.


Here I checked the fit of the blind nut, it just fits through the 1/2" hole.


Next I measured the screw I was using and using the appropriate sized bit enlarged the pilot hole from the bottom of the plane. Then I removed the LG, measured the part of the blind nut that would be inserted into the wood and using an appropriate bit enlarged the hole in the bottom of the fuse. Now using a long screw I inserted it from the bottom of the fuse through the 1/2" hole and threaded the blind nut onto it. I mixed up some 30 minute epoxy (so I had plenty of working time) and applied it to the blind nut then pulled it through the 1/2" hole and into the bottom of the fuse, setting it as well as I could by hand. Then I installed the LG with all three screws firmly setting the newly installed blind nut. This is a photo of the finished installation from the top.


And from the bottom. Again the firewall is to the left.


Glenn

flyingagin

That was a bit of an effort. Good job and you will be glad you did.

Ken

Zor

The attached drawing shows the answer.

On top and bottom of the joiners will be a 1/4" bass or spruce wood strip epoxied to the spars.

NOTE _ _ _ The spars and joiners appear curved in the picture; in reality they are straight.
This is a picture of my monitor screen and the camera is creating these curvatures due to the short camera to screen distance about 10 inches from a 19" diagonal monitor.

Zor

TomCrump

Nice work !

I'd like to suggest one addition. If it were mine, I'd add a plate, running the width of the fuselage. Drill it so that your existing landing gear bolts can be used. This plate will tie the two landing gear halves together, and provide more support.

If possible, I'd use aluminum, but even a 1/8" hard ply plate will add strength.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Tom

The DuBro gear is one piece, that's a pencil line on it, not a two piece gear with the ends butted up together. It fooled me too the first time I saw the picture. The gear is super strong and will outlast many plane, well mine has.

Rich

TomCrump

I should have known that. Any Dubro gear, that I've used, has been a one piece affair.

acdii

Yep it is one tough gear. I bounced my LT-40 once over 10 feet from a hard landing. Looked like it had Flubber for wheels. It has also been ripped off the plane without a scratch(hence the suggestion for nylon bolts). I think I have 3 1/2" wheels on mine too, perfect size for grass, especially tall grass that leaves furrows when you take off.

Zor

Some details added to the drawing.
Now pic of a printed sheet instead of computer monitor.

Camera does not photograph straight line as straight in close range.
Lines are straight on the print.

Later details of mods at the wing roots for mounting to fuselage.

Merry Christmas to all _ _ _

Zor

TomCrump

Are your wheels larger than stock ? Just curious.

Zor

Three pictures below.

Zor

acdii

The hub alone is larger than stock. It is in the trailer or I would measure them. Maybe this will give an idea, I did a comparison of the OS 52 and Saito FG-11, and you can see the wheel behind them.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

What did you compare and what did you find?

Larry882

I finally got my fuselage sides framed up and glued together. I'm in no hurry and I'm revising the drawing as I go. I still haven't started on the wing but don't expect too many problems.

Zor

I have not seen any glue in model structures pictures for a long time.
Finally I see some better gluing. It makes my day _ _ _ GOOD.

Larry882,

I read your post #2186 dated 12-10-2014, 04:21 PM where you wrote "can't figure out how to attach a file to this reply".

Now you sure have found out the procedure. There is two procedures.

Your Seniorita is coming along very nice and I am thrilled to see some glue for stronger construction.
Personally I double glue (sometime triple) to create fillets and up to five times the binding areas.

Ya _ _ _ I have been mentioning that many times in the past but there is always new readers.

You no doubt saw that I am preparing items to go into my build of a Kadet Senior with many modifications. I am anxious to start putting the wings together. I was planning for early December but got delayed in finnishing my previous project which was a winter cat's house for three cats that are wild outdoor types. In the last week that it has been installed outdoor they have already adopted it.

Nice to read your posting . . . I feel less lonely .. ..

Merry Christmas to you and yours.

Zor

Zor

Hello All,

I am still in preparation work. I do not consider I am building until I start some gluing.

I have to notch lengtwise the rear spar top and bottom for the gap eliminating pieces so that the outside surfaces are smooth and even. I think I can use my table saw to do that.

I first aligned the leading edges of the ribs against the front leading edge 1/2" x 1/2".
Then I filed the spar notches and fitted some spar tops and bottoms into them.
The ribs bottom have been sanded but not yet the top. That will come soon so they are all even (the same airfoil shape). The front parts of the ribs to be 3/32" lower for the lengthwise leading edge planking back to the main spar.

I will be using my new Titebond III glue and will provide for two degrees of washout at the trailing edge.

It will feel real good of doing some gluing again .

Zor

flyingagin

Now you are starting to cook Zor.Keep it coming

Ken

acdii

Compared the fit to the LT-40. if it wasn't for the ignition module, drops right in. The extra power of the FG-11 would about equal the added weight of the module and battery making it about equal to the OS-52. The only gain would be long flights.

Zor

Hi again All,

Thanks for the encouragement flyingagin.

When there is a will there is a way.

When I saw a large 45 degrees opening on the bottom surface of the wings I decided it was not for me.
I designed a way of avoiding that and keeping the air flow as smooth as possible by having no gap.

So I made the attached drawing with the black background.
Now I had to shape the cross section of the upper and lower spar members.
These are 3/8" front to back and 1/4" in height . I had to remove 1/16" in height and about 1/8" toward the front.

I did not know how to do that full length of the spar pieces for the flaps and ailerons.
I have to work with what I have and I succeeded with my table saw.

Yep I still have all my fingers .

One step further toward building the wings.

HEY _ _ _ All readers _ _ _ have the Merriest Christmas you ever had.

Zor

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Should I take this time to tell you guys that I scored a LT-40 yesterday with electronics and engine (granted, an oldie OS 46SR - getting tossed) for $20?

It looks like my Club will inherit a trainer!! Very little hangar rash and overall in good condition. Just need to add a new engine, rx and battery, tighten the covering and re-glue one item.

Good looking work, Zor.... WIsh I'd thought of that on my last one....

Bob