acdii

Such a steal! Too bad I will miss the Waukesha meet this jan, got a thing with the Family. I picked up some great deals there the last few times including that really nice Saito 100 GK, and the OS 52 that is on my LT-40. Both were nearly new, only had a few tanks through them.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Score! Lookout the guy may sober up and come looking for you.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

There is nothing wrong with a 46 SR! I have a 32 AX waiting for me to finish an airplane for it to power. What is the compression like? Does that include postage if not how much? I have several old OS engines in smaller sizes and I like to build something in that scale from time to time. I have and old Ace Simple Series Staggerwing kit I am going to power with one of my older engines.

Zor

Hi . . . .

Things are becoming more fascinating and doing lots of thinking.

Working to simplify some of the building work. It is so much easier to do the figurations on the computer than make a big flop (error) while building.

The drawing is becoming more complicated with more details but shows promisses and I think all will work out ok.

If anyone scrutinize the attached drawings (photos of the computer monitor) you may question some lines that have to do with the hinges. Mentally I am looking at all this in three dimensions in my mind.

Both flaps and ailerons will use the same mounting method but of course the flaps do not have to go up.
However they could be programmed (on Tx switch) to act as spoilers like we see on airliners just after touch down.

A side benefit of my work is that it keeps my mind active . . . I am not bored . . . never a dull moment.
No symptoms of dimentia ...... yet ...... ... ... that I am aware of.

Merry Christmas

Zor

flyingagin

Zor
What program are you using for your drawings?
I am curious because I am also in design phase for a plane as I can't really build at this time here.
So I have bean drawing on graph paper 11x14 at 10 grids per inch.
That let me draw at 1/5 scale. I then scanned those and pasted into paint to clean up and add to.
I have busted my head a million times trying to get off the ground with cad, but there is just something beating me up from even getting started.
My design started out to be very stylized Kadet, but I have tweaked the design so far that I don't think I can call it even a Kadet variant anymore.
I started with numbers from a kadet SR and staring at my SR as I drew the original drawings, but I must say I just don't see the Kadet there anymore.
I have done another variant plane that still unmistakable in it's roots.

The design I am working on is tri motor, bi plane. Power to be three .30 4c engines
78' top wing
72' bottom wing

After some more massaging of the drawings I post in another thread.

Ken

Ken

Larry882

Hi Ken,
You can get a free copy of Draftsight from the internet. It will work with 64 bit systems such as Windows7 and 8. I have a copy on my Windows 8 machine and it works very well. It is very similar to auto-Cad and the only thing that I don't like about it is the Zoom command. Most guys start on the wrong foot with these programs. When I'm making a drawing I use the offset command most of the time.
You can go on you tube and there are several video's posted on using it.
Larry

Zor

flyingagin,

My program is 32 years old and runs on Windows95.
Suggest you consider Larry's recommendation.
Check that it is not free for only 30 days. Some are.

Zor

flyingagin

I have draftsight loaded. But I am TOTALLY lost as how to even start.

Ken

Zor

flyingagin,

Quoting Larry

"You can go on you tube and there are several video's posted on using it."

Sorry we cannot pursue this in this thread _ _ _ out of topic.

Zor

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Not too late to start a thread on that subject Zor and Larry! They even have an area for that type of thread. You could even post a link here if you wanted to (hint hint).

flyingagin

I will start a thread and link it. After I reduce file size enough to post.

Gota stop and repair a closet that mice ruined. I would like to dot out kadet SR and drop 'em from it.
Well not really, but Me and dog are killing 'em left and right. Good, good dog.

Ken

Zor

Here is a typing of some text on page 2 of _ _ _


The Kadet Senior building and flying instructions manual.

Title: USE ENOUGH GLUE

The thousands of Kadet Senior and Senioritas flying are proof of the adequacy of lightweight structure when properly constructed. But the model will not be strong if you skimp on use of glue. This is particularly true of the central area of the wing. The doublers must be glued to the spars with full glue coverage.The same thing applies to the plywood spar braces and to the wing spar webs.

A caution about cyanoacrylate glue. The thin glues are handy for instantly assembling a structure. However, unless the joints are perfectly fitted, they are liable to fail later. Therefore I (the author) recommend that you go over all joins that have been assembled with a thin cyanoacrilate and make an external fillet of thick cyanoacrylate.

End of manual writing.

This is the first time I happen to run across such rcommendations for filleting the glue joints in any literature.

However I do not use cyano for that purpose; I use real wood glue and assure external coverage for at least the size (thickness) of the material being joined. I have shown (posted pictures) many times of such joints and can still post them for anyone interested.
I do not know if it was badly labelled but the 'so called thick" cyano I bought is fluid like water and cannot fill any air space in a joint.

Zor

Zor

I am trying to use Titebond III (third version) for the first time.
I usually used SigMent or Weldbond.

I have a new container of Titebond III bought at the LHS.
I opened it last evenng and it flows very liquidy.
I spilled about a tablespoon on the workbench by just turning it upside down to apply some glue.

I was just holding it with my right hand wthout squeezing. Just enough pressure to not letting the container to fall out of my hand..

Is Titebond III viscosity like a light syrup?
Is it like maple syrup ?
Is it like molasses ?
Is it like ketchup ?

Can someone that has used it please kindly let me know what its viscosity is like ?

Many thanks.

Zor

acdii

It is thin so the wood sucks it up. I use a monoject syringe to apply it. Over time though the glue will thicken after some of it has been used. Once you get down to a half bottle it should flow as you expect it to.

Zor

Holiday Greetings to All,

I wanted to talk more about the Titebond glue to use in building my Kadet Senior.
The site asked me to sign in AGAIN and is extremely slow.
Often I am asked to sign in and I just disconnect from the site and try again and the second time I am asked to sign out which mens I am signed in. Today it asked me to sign in three times consecutively so I did and was fortunately signed in.

About the watery Titebond III

Althoug asking for help and other's experience I also do my own research.
This morning I went in the container with a 1/4" wide flat long screwdrive and could feel some quite thick stuff up to about 1/3 from the bottom. I kept moving the screwdriver around and mixing until I could not feel anymore thick stuff (about 15 minutes and then kept going for another 10 minutes.

Now I can put the container upside down and the beak open without watery glue coming out.
I did not think that the glue solids which I think is a mixture would deposit toward the bottom.

I made a test in a vertical corner and I can deposit a drop or two at the corner top and the glue does not flow down easily unless excess glue is applied. After spreading the glue in the corrner to form the fillet I seem to have no more difficulties. After about one hour of depositing a fillet the glue is quite hard already and at least 1/3 of the original deposit volume is still existing. That glue is also nearly the color of balsa.

I notice that the shape of the container beak is a 90 degree shape which is convenient for creating fillets.
Someone did some good thinking.

I realize the time I asked for help until now was too short for anyone to respond.

Thanks anyway brothers.

Merry Christmas.

Zor

acdii

Yours must have really been thin! I know fresh off the shelf its a little thin, but I have never had separation like that.

Zor

Thanks acdii .

I went for breakfsst and interrupted my writing. I finished it without checking further.

Zor

Zor

Cut once _ _ _ measure twice _ _ _ I must have measured 5 times after doing upteen computer figurations.

I left myself no more choice ... there will be flaps on that trailing edge.

Six more trailing edge ribs have to be cut out of 3/32" balsa sheeting or perhaps 8 ribs of 1/16" thick hard ply if decision is to have hard ends at the control surfaces.

One thing I know for sure now is that the surfaces will be equal in areas.
It will look like a Kadet Senior, same dimensions and appearacnce, a bit more weight (desired I think) and of course fabric and dope finish white, yellow and green with accents. The scheme will be simple and the colors are because I aleady have dope in these colors ( easy decision here).

Zor

Zor

Hello folks,

The title means I started gluing and immediatly ran into problems.
I do not know if the glue has its normal viscosity.
I have not received any information following my request.

I am not able to dispense a nice glue fillet with this dispenser.
I am used to a round orifice cut at about 45 degrees and just run along while controlling the amount coming out by the squeeze of the container. The container being like tooth paste dispensers. The glue comes out with a viscosity similar to tooth paste or vaseline and does not drip. I now have dozens of glue drops (too liquidy) on the wax paper.

No doubt this is the best glue for modelers (others also claim that) but I do not know how to use it for my purpose.(creating fillets).

My LHS does not carry the glue I am used to. He gave up that source of supply. I have to find a source of supply in the next few days if the glue is still available.

The attached picture is not very good. I was trying to illustrate the setup for 2 degrees of washout at the wing tip. It is visible with the trailing edge closer to the viewer. The leading edge is closer to the wall so we are looking at the trailing edge with the wing root at the left. The righthand TE is raised by 1/2 inch and the middle of course by 1/4 inch (at the pin near center). The 1/2" x 1/2" leading edge is parallel to the flat horizontal work surface.

Ya I know _ _ _ I am not making things easier but that is part of my specifications and am building it accordingly.

Merry Christmas .... eat well and if you consume drinks be reasonable .. .. .

Zor

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

What kind of glue did you normally use Zor?

Zor

Hello FlyerInOKC,

The glue I normally used comes in a tooth paste like tube 4 oz size by volume.
I cut the tip at an angle of about 45 degrees and control the size of the bead deposited by the squeezing of the flexible tube just like we can do with tooth paste on the tooth brush.

The angle of the cut tip forms a nice radius of the deposit in the corners (about 1/8"). After cure it looks very nice even though usually hidden by the covering. It just makes me feel good about it .

My long time LHS does not carry any product from Sig anymore for some reason of his own.
Now you know it was SIG-MENT fast drying and fuel proof glue.

First and second pictures show the wing washout better then the one yesterday. See in particular the shadow of the light in the second pic. Pic 3 and 4 show an attempt at creating the fillet with the yellow glue dispenser; not to my satisfaction, a bit of a mess but better than no fillet.

Some will disagree with me but I do not and never did see any need for a lot of clamping or pinning; make sure to provide the best fit one can and the pieces are touchng at some point and will not move during curing and let the glue do its job. As this has worked for me for so many years, it works for anyone with nicely filleted joints.

Merry Christmas to all readers.

Zor

TomCrump

zor, you were talking about how the Titebond was watery, but I see a Great Planes wood glue in one of the pics. Did you switch brands of glue because of thethin viscosity of the TB ?

With the relatively long drying time for wood glues. and the fact thay you do not use pins or clamps, how do you keep your parts in the correct position as the adhesive sets ?

"Nicely filleted joints" can only happen if the parts are in the right position. Flowing glue on top of a ill-placed part is of little use.

flyingagin

I also use a lot of Titebond in my builds. But I use jigs, pins clamps. whatever works at that time and place. Just to make the process of assembling with Titebond take even longer, I now use the double glue method. Adds substantially more time. haha
But actually it does produce stronger joints.

Ken

acdii

Does SIG ship to Canada? Order it online direct from them if they do. I use a double glue method, sort of. I tack glue with thin CA to hold the parts, then go back and fill every joint with TB II.

flyingagin

Hey that is double glueing. Ya glued it twice.

What I was refering to is applying thinned TB and letting it almost dry, like 90% then coming back with normal TB. One heck of a bond.

Ken