FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It could have seep thru and stuck that way. Modern waxed paper is porous so you can microwave with it.

ETpilot

Just getting back into RC n building. Weather here in Texas is lousy so I am taking the time to start my build; Kadet LT-40. Not sure how this build will go but at least I have started. Thought I'd post a picture of where I am so far. Starting with the fuselage. Here I have both fuselage sides, one atop the other, glue drying. More work to follow. If I am careful it may look like an LT-40.

Pork Chop

My Feedback: (5)

FlyerInOKC,

I'm repairing an old Sig Riser right now, first time building in years and noticed my new CA'd tail assembly completely stuck to the wax paper. I was totally surprised. The car wax idea sounds like it would be a great idea!

acdii

I found parchment paper works better, but is hard to see through. Just make sure it is shiny side up.

skylark-flier

It'll go just fine - it's a SIG plane and, as far as I've ever known, you simply can't screw one up. I may be testing that thought though, with my Stratus build. You're looking good though, so far.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I use GP plans protector or the heat shrink plastic for covering windows and doors in winter.

flyingagin

I just epoxied up a part yesterday. I wiped some Carnuba car paste wax on the wax paper liberally and then wiped it off. Worked like champ. Even where I direct wax paper to epoxy contact.

Ken

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hmmmm, I wonder what a shot of some cheap silicone spray would do, as long as you kept it off the pieces you're gluing up....

Just my $.02

Bob

acdii

Its a good idea to keep silicone as far away from your project as possible. Even the thought of silicone anywhere near it can cause painting issues down the line. The best protection I found to date is the clear backing that was on the old SIG covering that I got with my 4*. Its thick, durable, and clings well to the plans, paint and all glues come right off it too. Can't say the same for the plan protector roll of stuff, it is thin, and ca sticks right to it. It tears easy and ca wicks right past the pins into the plans.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Acdii, yeah, I think you're right. Strike my last, um, suggestion if you're going to be painting. Perhaps it is a bad idea all over, in afterthought.

Bob

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I've decided to paint the windows in. I fly with Dick Sarapolus, he's done maybe a 100 designs in magazines, he avoids plastic windows and canopies whenever he can because they are the first things to start to look crappy, one of his painted window planes will look as good 10 years from now as it does today. I made a pho door and stringers on the solid front half of the plane carrying the real stringers to the rear. The top of the tank compartment I had to plank, then the engine compartment too. I'm not very good at it, I haven't done it in years. Last time I did it I had just watched Dave Platt's tape on it and it turned out great, this time not so much, but it sanded down OK, though it needed lots of filler

TomCrump

The nose planking looks great. In fact, the whole model looks great !

flyingagin

Some really beautiful work Rich. The wife loved the wing. I threw the pics up on our TV for her.

My SR is still flight worthy after some 25 years and one rebuild just because the covering looked like crap and I wanted check out the structure for any damage. It is now named John Dear because of the covering scheme, just needs a John Dear decal or so. Well it would be flight worthy with a new RX and an engine rebuild, Saito 65. And I have worn the engine out so that it is way down on power. Got a new after market piston ring. Now I just need to get new bearing and have it. Rebuilt plenty of glow 2 stroked and even a total rebuild on a couple of engines. But some how I am reluctant to have at this little four stroke. Go figure.

I really like the halve ribs. They look great and will still stand out after the covering. Seems that the wing should perform better also.

Ken

ETpilot

Thought I'd post a few pictures of my LT-40 build. It is progressing pretty nicely. Fuselage needs a bit more work. Somehow the fuselage tail end got .50" off of centerline . So I had to jig it and coax it back. It is straight arrow again. Tail feathers are about done. Next will be the wing. If it ever stops raining and dries up, I may get to try to fly this plane.

skylark-flier

Might I suggest first, maybe a bit of fabric of some kind to cover over the holes? I've found that if you do that, they work better.

Sorry, couldn't resist. Seriously, she's looking good. I love seeing these planes all framed up.

flyingagin

hahaha good one Dave good one

Looking good ETpilot
Love looking at naked planes, love seeing their bones

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Boy that takes me back! I added triangle stock to all 4 sides of the firewall on mine. Flies great with a Super Tigre .40.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Boy that takes me back! I added triangle stock to all 4 sides of the firewall on mine. Flies great with a Super Tigre .40. After I parked it in the canopy of a large tree my rock climbing Eagle scout son had a heck of a time but managed to free. He pulled off the vertical stab doing it. That was the only damage. I told him I would rather have to fix the tail then leave it in the tree. You may want to add some triangle stock there as well. I did when I reattached the tail.

flyingagin

I am with Mike here. I always add some triangle stock to a firewall.
On bigger planes I also pin through the fuse sides and into the firewall maybe a 1/4" with some small hardwood dowel pieces or bamboo skewer pieces. What ever fits.
I am assembling the fuse for a .90 powered bi plane, and will drill small hole through the fuse and into the firewall. Then bamboo skewers will be epoxied into the holes. The wings may come off but that engine ain't!

It is just some thing personal that I do. It is likely not necessary, but it gives me peace of mind.

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

If you stick with rubber bands (I did) store them in a plastic bag with baby/talcum powder and replace them every flying season and don't scrimp on the number!

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

ET, I'm not sure if you are building with a kit or from scratch, but I found out long ago that the source of wood from both sides should be the same. If you build one side and run out, then go the the LHS to get more, chances are it will have different characteristics, which can create bowing. Same for wings or other parts. It's always best to strip your own wood from the same plank than buying sticks. I like your use of flat iron for weight. I may get some of those made up.

ETpilot

I guess you can't see the invisiblecoat covering I have on my build. I better do the more traditional Koverall covering for better visibility.

The rain here in East Texas has been horrible this year. Just this week we got 4.75 inches. The forecast is for 3 days of rain next week. Great weather for building but I can't get my outside projects done and I sure can't try to get back into the flying.

Thanks for for all the tips. I do plan to add some more triangle stock, and also for the firewall. As for pinning the firewall, I had forgotten that. Thanks. I pinned my last build and will do the same with this one. I don't like using rubber bands so the wing will bolt on.

Flight Risk, I am following plans but draw my outline on freezer paper so basically it is a scratch build. I believe what you say is exactly what happened. I got some sticks for this build. I plan to cut my own sticks next time.

So far, the fuselage and tail surfaces are weighing in at 15 ounces. I am starting on the wing now. This is a fun build. It is going faster than I thought. It must be the rain.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Planes and ladies.....

flyingagin

Just planes

Ken

skylark-flier

Poor Ken...

Personally, I subscribe to the Jeff Foxworthy creedo - I wanna beer, and I wanna see somethin' naked.

Yup, that's me ... the perpetual dirty-ol'-man.