GLUE /Adhesives
04-06-2013, 06:50 PM
#51
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: GLUE /Adhesives
ORIGINAL: eagle 01
Hi;Have a question re;adhesives,, Having haunted swap meets for long time I have accumulated several unfinished models Fleet bipe etc but they are old builds and find that now in just examining them parts tend to snap off at glue joins etc.But they are so cheap just can't pass up a bargin!!Looks like need to run over most of the joints with something before doing any rehab on them and covereing?Can't really tell what was used but it was many years ago!Just wondering what you fellows would use to reinforce those old joints??I know should just get new kits but there are many neat old planes out there that someone started and just wants to be rid of now cheap!!Thanks for your thoughts n this subject!!
Hi;Have a question re;adhesives,, Having haunted swap meets for long time I have accumulated several unfinished models Fleet bipe etc but they are old builds and find that now in just examining them parts tend to snap off at glue joins etc.But they are so cheap just can't pass up a bargin!!Looks like need to run over most of the joints with something before doing any rehab on them and covereing?Can't really tell what was used but it was many years ago!Just wondering what you fellows would use to reinforce those old joints??I know should just get new kits but there are many neat old planes out there that someone started and just wants to be rid of now cheap!!Thanks for your thoughts n this subject!!
Today I started building a wing, a couple of the ribs are ply and all the rest of the wood is balsa. I used thin CA on all the balsa joints and the scarf cut spars then epoxy on the hardwood.
When I sheeted the stab I used thin CA on one side then used Sigment on the other so I had the needed working time. If I would have had any titebond on hand I may have used that on side two but I just discovered I was out of titebond.
04-06-2013, 08:17 PM
#52
My Feedback: (1)
RE: GLUE /Adhesives
ORIGINAL: Airplanes400
Don't mix the epoxy or resin with the different cure times. They are a matched set. Mixing different cure times, whether resin or hardner, will always result in something that doesn't cure for days. Try a small sample in a plastic container ... you will see.
ORIGINAL: Flyfast1
I hope you guys don't mind me jumping in here with an epoxy question. For a lot of the two part epoxies that I use, e.g., Devon 5 minute epoxy, 30 minute epoxy, etc., there is a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener. Is the resin the same for the different versions of epoxy, e.g., 5 minute, 30 minute, etc.? Is the only difference in the hardener?
Thanks,
-Ed B.
I hope you guys don't mind me jumping in here with an epoxy question. For a lot of the two part epoxies that I use, e.g., Devon 5 minute epoxy, 30 minute epoxy, etc., there is a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener. Is the resin the same for the different versions of epoxy, e.g., 5 minute, 30 minute, etc.? Is the only difference in the hardener?
Thanks,
-Ed B.
-Ed B.
04-06-2013, 09:39 PM
#53
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: GLUE /Adhesives
Ok, let me see if I got this straight, WD-40 is not a good adhesive and CA makes a lousy after run oil?
Actually I have been using WD for after run oil for years, but after reading this thread I think I am not going to anymore.
Calvi
Actually I have been using WD for after run oil for years, but after reading this thread I think I am not going to anymore.
Calvi
04-09-2013, 11:22 AM
#54
RE: GLUE /Adhesives
Insta-Flex is a medical grade CA. It's flexibility and lower heat when curing makes it good for use on skin. When used for CA hinges, you will not hear the cracking sound you usually hear when you first move the control surface. Insta-Flex costs almost twice as much, however, so most modelers will still use Insta-Cure since it also works great.
BSI's 5, 15 and 30 minute epoxies all use the same resin (the black topped bottles), so they are interchangable. The resin for the 20 minute Finish-Cure, however, is entirely different.
Heat is the reason for the less than 30 minute working time you will sometimes see with Slow-Cure epoxy. This is usually seen when the epoxy is mixed in a cup, which traps the heat produced by the curing, which speeds the curing, which produces more heat, etc, etc. Mixing the epoxy on a flat surface, like to plastic top to a coffee can, allows this heat to dissipate and will usually give you the full 30 minute working time. A rule of thumb is that you will lose one minute of working time for every degree above 75 degrees F.
Charlee Smith
BSI
BSI's 5, 15 and 30 minute epoxies all use the same resin (the black topped bottles), so they are interchangable. The resin for the 20 minute Finish-Cure, however, is entirely different.
Heat is the reason for the less than 30 minute working time you will sometimes see with Slow-Cure epoxy. This is usually seen when the epoxy is mixed in a cup, which traps the heat produced by the curing, which speeds the curing, which produces more heat, etc, etc. Mixing the epoxy on a flat surface, like to plastic top to a coffee can, allows this heat to dissipate and will usually give you the full 30 minute working time. A rule of thumb is that you will lose one minute of working time for every degree above 75 degrees F.
Charlee Smith
BSI
04-09-2013, 11:33 AM
#55
RE: GLUE /Adhesives
Before instaling CA hinges i get a crayon and put about 1/8 line in the middle of each ca hinge on both sides . The crayon line wont let any ca in that spot and it makes it easyer to see the center of the hinge. Try it the hinge will work smoooooooth afterwards with no cracking sounds or any stiff hinges. joe
