Lavell

My Feedback: (3)

I'm looking forward to following your build thread. I am very interested in how the DLE 30 works for this plane.

VincentJ

Welcome aboard hrrcflyer, Cliff, Gary,Mr. G, Lowvoltage and Lavell! Input is always appriciated...

Yesterday I had assembled all of the wing ribs together and as you can see in the before and after photos stacking the ribs and tuning them up a bit will make building a straight wing more achievable.

A package awaited me at my back door today when I arrived home, it was the fiberglass cowl that I had ordered from Fiberglass Specialties. I always like to buy my cowls or wheelpants from them as I have always had good luck with the fit and finish of their products.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I built one of those years ago and powered it with a Saito 120 or 150, don't recall which. It was a blast right until I filtered it through a tree.[:@] Funniest thing I ever saw. Wings stopped in pieces but the fuse came right on through and did the lawn dart trick. >sigh< This was a demo flight as I was about to trade it for a F-4U that needed some TLC.



Oh, Titebond II does a good job of bonding to all the sticks in that kit.

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hi guys, I thought you might like to see some photos of the Spacewalker II I am flying at the moment. It was built by a friend of mine from a highly modified Sig kit. I added a whole bunch of extra scale details for a scale comp we had in February. I am pretty please with the results (below). And the last two images are the original.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

very very nice

VincentJ

Nice looking plane jymster, both you and your friend did a great job! The cowl on it reminds me of the cowl found ona super cub...

carlgrover

What engine did you put in it? Very nice job too. Place well in the scale competition?


Carl

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have had pretty good luck with their products except I prefer to order through my local hobby shop. It costs me about the same and I like supporting my LHS to keep him around for when I need his sage advise!

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

Subscribed........I have to catch up since I am out of (my home) state of Michigan doing some software testing. I will have to catch up at the hotel tonight.

Thanks Vincent, looking forward to the next great thread!

Dave

VincentJ

Welcome back Dave! I'll try not to disappoint...

FlyerInOKC, I couldn't agree with you more. I always give my LHS as much buisness as I can so it won't help lead to them going out of buisness. I don'twant to think up how much $$$ they get from me in one years time. I'm pretty sure the rest of you guys are in the same boat.

VincentJ

Gary, do you have any information on the ETA of the DA-35? I will need to decide pretty quickly here what my choices will be..

VincentJ

Had to work late last night so I wasn't able to spend any time in the workshop .

Since I had already prepped all the wing ribs, I pinned down a Spruce spar to my build tableand layed outthe ribs in theirproper locations. I suppose there are many ways toget this done, but I prefer to do one rib at a time, set it into position carefully with squares and clampuntil the glue gets a chance to set. Once it's set I move on to the next rib, not the fastest way, but they come out straight !

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

At the risk of sounding like a goof, I usually only use CA, but have thought about going to something a little less irritating to the sinuses. How long does it take the titebond to "set-up"?


Dave

acerc

Late to the show, forgot about it and was just reminded. Off to a great start Vincent.

VincentJ

Welcome back Robert, was wondering where you were!

Dave, reducing your exposure to CA is a good thing. CA does have it's place in building, but many are paying the priceto its exposureof the fumes. Titebond typically sets up in about 15-20 minutes depending on the amount you use. Dave it also sands off your worka whole lot easier than CA, but the down side is it makes you build slower...

yel914

VJ, Although this isn't one of my favorite planes, you're my favorite builder, so I'll gladly follow along. I'm really surprised that you haven't gone to a magnetic building board yet. You're missing out! The build looks great, as usual.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Fine Woodworking magazine had a glue test a few years ago, and IIRC the Titebond ended up being the best.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Dave, try the foam safe your sinuses will thank you!

VincentJ

Welcome back yel914 and thank you! Magnetic build boards are very nice and is on my long list of wants...someday!

Gary another advantage is the price, it's so much cheaper than CA!

bdshort

Vincent, looking forward to watching this build from the beginning. I started reading the Ryan thread towards the end, as I don't frequent this board, but now I'm here too!

I don't do a ton of building myself, though I am in the middle of a couple short kit projects. A Pat Tritle 1/8 scale Super Cub is getting close to completion, and I have a 1/8 scale Waco YMF from Jim Young that is mostly framed up. For the Cub, the wing basically interlocks like a 3D puzzle and holds itself square and together, so on that part at least, I slipped everything together then used thin CA. OTOH, I've pretty much used just Titebond on the whole thing. The wing doesn't interlock like the Cub, and is built more like the Spacewalker. Fortunately, I have a small magnetic building board, and just the rectangular magnets do a pretty good job of holding everything in place.

VincentJ

Glad you found this thread bdshort. Welcome!

Made up my list of things I need to buy tomorrow at the LHS for this build to move forward. I will more than likely come home with an engine, so stay tuned on what will power this Spacewalker...

Here are some shots of the wing ribs in place, I've tried to show with the camera how everything has lined up. Looks pretty straight to me...I will glue the top spar in the morning.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Looking good VJ!  Started to get a little behind on your thread, been working and PM'ing too much.  

box car

David, don't go to thin on your metal. I use a 1/8x24x96 inch top, I would not use less than 1/16 has to do with holding power of the magnet.

hrrcflyer

Hey VJ,

While you're looking for an engine for your Spacewalker, please don't overlook the 3W28, It will have plenty of power for your plane. But if you want a little more oompf, you can get the CS version. Obviously it costs more than most of your other options, but the engineering and quality of the motor more than make up the difference to me. Also, DA is supposed to be coming out with their 35cc engine as well. Obviously you won't have either of these motors by tomorrow, but I believe any plane that is built with the quality of construction that you put into your planes deserves better than a Chinese copy cat for a motor.

I hope I don't offend anybody with this post because it is the last thing I want to do, and if I do, I apologize.

Take care,
David

VincentJ

David no offense taken... I know that DA is coming out with a 35, but when I called them they told me the engine won't be out till the end of June. I really would have considered it but I'm a bit impatient. I will more than likely use a DA in my next build (believe it or not I've already been thinking about it).

I did make it to the LHS and spent a nice time looking at all the things that I want but can't afford...I did make a decision on an engine, but I'm getting ahead of myself.

Before I left for the LHS I did glue the last rib on the left wing which is different from the other ribs in that it is not glued plum as the rest are. This rib isinstalled so that their isa dihedral angle set into the rib. There is a lite-ply dihedral gauge that is supplied in the kit that is used to ensure this angle is correct. Removing the gauge from its lite-ply sheet was the next task at hand and this brings us to a tip I would like to share with you.

We are all at some point reliant on removing parts from sheets that have been die cut, but where the die did not completely make it through the sheet. So you flex it back and forth a bit and sometimes it separates cleanly but more times than not it comes out with some damage.( I hate it if that happens.) So I get a single edge razor blade and insert it into the die cut and using a very small 4 oz.ball-peen hammer I give it a whack completing what the die should have done. Obviously it can't be done on curved parts, but it works well if the part is straight. This is how I removed the dihedral gauge in the photo.

All the ribs were checked for square and plum before the glue set and the last rib was set to the proper dihedral angle using the gauge block.

OK, you probably peeked and saw what engine I chose for this build. It's the new DLE-35 and it will fit very nicely. I chose it over the DLE-30 because of a few factors:

1. The angled sparkplug in the head
2. Rear facing exhaust with pitts style muffler
3. Increased power and RPM over the 30