WacoNut

Looking good VJ,
Nice choice in engines.
Later!!
Anthony

acerc

Coming along VJ. You're going to love that DLE 35. And if you don't mind I'd like to add to your razor technique. A thin strip of brass with one egde sharpened will curve nicely for the not so strait cuts, well un-cuts.

VincentJ

Very clever Robert! This old dog just learned a new trick!

Cub Flyer Fresno

Nice choice on the engine VJ.  After discussing with a few people, I pretty sure that is what I'll be putting in my Stinson which is most likely my next build.  Just one question though, I'm assuming that is the DLE 35RA, correct?  I didn't see a DLE 35.

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

Should be a great match VJ. Just wondering, how long does it take the titebond to "set-up"? Meaning, how long before you can remove clamps, etc... and expect it to hold good enough? I usually use only CA and Epoxy in my builds, and have only used titebond for edge-gluing wing sheeting.

thanks,

Dave

Cub Flyer Fresno

Hey Dave, in all your builds have you ever had any structural failures due to CA?  I'd really like to know  because I used a lot of CA in the wing as well.  In fact it sounds like I used your method of building.  Hope my Cub doesn't fly apart in the air!

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds good! Im in"

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

I have built dozens of planes and can honestly say none of them have ever had a structural failure, as much as I hate to admit it, its been pilot error (and once a bad servo). But never an issue with a joint giving way. I am more interested due to the easier sanding and eliminating those CA "hardspots" that make getting a good smooth sanded finish difficult.

Dave

Cub Flyer Fresno

Oh, yeah!  Excellent point Dave!

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks mate.

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hey VJ, sorry been offline for a few days. Thanks, yes the cowl is very much like the Cub cowl. Quite a unique Spacewalker, which is why I like it! [8D]

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hey Carl, it has an O.S. FT-160, of course! What other engine is there for this model? It is the perfect airframe/engine combo.

P.S. I placed 3rd in the comp, so well worth the effort!

VincentJ

Welcome hairy46!

Dave you must have missed post #40 LOL. Titebond can be unclamped after 15-20 minutes. It is not completely cured but ithas set so you can continue your work.

David, you are correct, it is a DLE-35RA. I was just too lazy to type in the last few letters. On the glue issue, any glue that you use should be stronger than the balsa if properly applied. If your using thin CA it dosen't fill gaps well so your joints need to be pretty tight for good holding power. Medium and thick type CA's will fill gaps better.

jymster, congratulations on the 3rd place finish. Indeed well worth the effort!

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks VJ. Following your build with interest.

J.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Good to see you using a gasser!  It is difficult to understand why anyone would use a slimer anymore.

TomCrump

I love my 1.60 twin/glow, in my 1/4 Spacewalker. It provides a sound that cannot be duplicated by a gasser.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Different strokes for different folks, but at $939 for 2HP, Vinnie could make it a little bigger and get a DA-70 twin and spend $700 for 7HP, with 10x less fuel cost.

TomCrump

Yes, we disagree. Most of my engines are gassers, buit I use 4 stroke glow, when feasable, in my scale models. The four strokes add a dimention of sound that a 2 stroke gasser can not duplicate.

Mr_Grump

If you want fuel economy and great sound, you have to pay for it. I've quit using glow. I'm using only gassers now. I have two Saito FG-57T's and they have thus far been great engines. Sound awesome...

VincentJ

The first two photos show how I held the 1/8" x 3/4" x 42" balsa leading edge in place at the front of the ribs as the glue set up. I like to use 3/4" aluminum square stock to ensure the same pressure is being applied with clamps.

Time to install the shear webbing to the front and back of the spars between each rib. The kit comes with lite-ply to be used on the front of the first four ribs only, after the fourth rib you are instructed toswitch to3/32" balsa for the rest. The plans do not show any shear webbing on the threelast rib bays nearest the wing tip. I decided to install shear webbing for all bays making a stronger structure. After separating all of the lite-ply webbing from the sheet being carefull not to damage any, I didn't like the fit between each rib so I decided to make my own instead. I like my shear webs to fully contact each rib ensuring that the rib cannot move or twist. End result a stronger wing assembly.

Note: When using balsa for shear webbingbe sureto orientate the grain vertically for strength.

acerc

Now you're just showing off!  LOL

Cub Flyer Fresno

I know this doesn't exactly fit the thread, but I've got to go back to Tom Crump.  I totally agree with you on the sound of a four stroke slimer, I love that sound.  I have a Magnum FS120 in my Ultimate, but because of the cost and the mess I am considering going to gas at some point in the future. 

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

Yep.,I missed the other post...sorry. I spent last week in a hotel traveling for work and had a hard time keeping up. But thanks for the info., maybe I will give the titebond a try.

Dave

out2pasture

I like the Sig glue. It’s a little thinner than Titebond so it flows a little easier. Also, I like the little bottle it comes in. I used the Great Planes glue on my first kit, a PT-40. After a few years though, I noticed the glue turned orange and has become somewhat brittle.

VJ. I noticed there are no glue puddles under your wing ribs. You are obviously not using my gluing technique. What is your secret? How do you ensure you have enough glue, but not so much you have to chisel the wing off your work board?

VincentJ

LOL, Mike no secret. Before I install each rib I put some glue (Titebond) on the end grain of the rib that would go on the spar I let it sit for 30 seconds letting the glue get wicked into the wood then add a bit more if need be. I then place the rib into position and clean off the excess with a small flat bladed screwdriver. The excess glue dosen't really add any strength and saves weight in the long run...