zippome

What about Glovie?

Zip

Zor

Can we go back to the progress that Gray Beard is making with his project ?

Zor

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

HS, half would be way over estimated, I have had two SK .91 engines, only one in use for the last two years. I did stick one in an Aeromaster and gave the plane away and had one in a Texas Twins Extra that didn't last long, the plane. The one I'm using now is in my Daddy Rabbit, my high wind plane. For two stroke users the SK .91 is the best two stroke I have ever used. I haven't tried any of there other engines but I do have an .80 I was given but never have used it. Pretty much all my glow engines have been OS or YS and most of those are YS. YS is my number one engine and most often used. The 110 FZ and the older 120s. I have a bunch of both.
The beauty of the SK is it is a low RPM high torque engine, just what I like. I run the engine dry at the end of the day and a year later the engine still fires right up and I never touch the needles. Once in tune I almost never touch the needles on any engine until the weather goes from 115 to the mid 20s. Then it is just the high end.
GLOVIE, glovie works too, this morning Rick sent me a email with glovie in it. Right now my printer is out of colored ink and not doing black too well either so I can't get the templates made for anything.
I went flying this morning, crashing would be the correct term but the point is other then removing the usable parts on my shop bench I haven't been out there today.
Photo files, I have been popping in and out of a lot of peoples photo gallery last week. What's up, I know most of you guys have a camera and I know some of you are builders. Try posting your builds in your photo gallery once in a while. I have no original thoughts but I do rip off others work!!!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Yesterday I laid down the stripes on the bottom with some jacked up ammonia and windex. This morning I ran a piece of mono over a sheet I had covered with Chinacote at a very low temp then kept adding heat to my iron until it was just starting to get gas bubbles then ironed down the stripes. Cut all the waste then turned the iron up a bit more and went around the edges and the leading edges. I should even be able to see this plane when in our bright clear sky.
Saw Enders Game today too, the book didn't transfer well to the movie. Didn't think it would, they had to cut too much out of the book so the character background was lost completely.

hsukaria

That's what my boys said about the movie.

Regarding Monokote sticking with ammonia/windex, do you just soak the surface with windex and then lay down the Monokote? Or do you also have to heat it?

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Depends on the area you are putting it on. Flat surfaces windex will hold it down pretty well but I have found areas that are curved or angled like over the center of a rib it doesn't stick that well. It tends to lift. Over big areas I like to use the trim iron on high and go around the edges about 1/4 inch all around. The flat shoe on my trim iron is broken so I use my big iron and get it set at a heat that doesn't allow bubbles but still irons it down and go over all of it. Then I turn it up higher and go around the edges. I have seen others that only use the windex and had no problems when doing small areas. Flames and logos type of stuff. I have found some of the mono sticks better then others? It could be the age of the covering? Mine has been around for years and I don't trust it so I use my iron on it after the windex. If you looked into Bob's photo file you will see he builds really big planes and uses big trim, he would know more about it then I do.
I had also looked at the Bolt thread Zor is posting in trying to add decals. I use the windex on decals too but don't use them often. It works great on sticky back decals. Only time I had a big problem was with decals provided by Aeroworks, the decals sort of fell apart like they were old and brittle?
Gene

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

This is a shame but it dawned on me that I have a closet full of glass cowls and I recalled one that that may fit this plane. The shame is I think it is from one of the Horizon giant scale Sukhoi ARFs? I will have to cut most of it away to fit my plane, loosing the louvers and other details like most of the bottom scoop. The nice thing is the glass work is second to none and it is big enough to allow good air flow. I just hate cutting it when I know sometime down the road someone will ask if I happen to have one on hand. I still haven't decided if I want a cowl on this plane or not so for now it is safe.
Gene

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Cowl and blue meanie. Meanie is done in all Ultra. I was going to try to match the red covering for the cowl but if I can't then just chrome.

gwjwbw

Anyone ever use chinakote from Skyward Hobby?
Seem to me that there not much glue on the backing, I use plenty of other covering, and this one I had problem
Thank, gerard

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Finally, it has gotten to be summer. 107 with 7% humidity so it's warm but not sticky. I have had the plane out all day getting the engine going. Not a sag or ripple in this covering. It handles the heat/sun better even then Ultra. I'm sold completely. The silver is mono and it bubbled right up but that is pretty normal. Mono does some strange things in our desert heat. Other then trim colors this is the only covering I will now use. Really good stuff!!!!!!

3136

That's great to hear GB, I looked a while ago and they didn't sell plain white, just looked now and they are selling it now.
But it's on backorder, I'll never buy anything from HK when it's on backorder, waited three months for something once.

maekju

Glad you like the covering GB. I covered my bipe 3 years ago and just last month I had to iron down a few of the points on the flames. I have a few tears to repair but I've never had to reshrink it once. I'll be glad when they get some more cyan yellow in the US warehouse so I can fix the tears. Ordering one roll from the international warehouse isn't worth it because of the shipping. My last order I ordered two rolls each of the five basic colors I like and use mono for trim. I noticed the price went up a $1.00 and as this covering becomes more popular it will probably increase more.

Pylonracr

What happened Gene, did the cowling fall off???

Nice looking plane
Scott

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Yes, after removing a fist full of screws. I fire and tune all my engines before I take a plane to the field for the first time and the carb on the Brison has the jets/needles facing the prop, kinda hard to get a screw driver in there when the engine is running. I have a couple inches between the needles and prop so I can still tune while the engine is running, just as long as the cowl is off. I finally got the engine fired yesterday but it's not in tune, close but I dumbassed something and didn't get it set correctly but close will do for right now. Next week I will get it where I want then put the cowl back on.
It's been over 100 degrees here so I don't like to hang out in the direct sun when I'm making dumbass mistakes. I'm working on two engines right now so the Prime Cut isn't my only game. Next week all should be well and ready to fly.

maekju

You can get 4mtr rolls at http://www.hobbypartz.com/film.html for $4.65. They have some of the cyan yellow in stock. Think I'm going to get some to patch up my bipe.

GallopingGhostler

Thanks, I just ordered 4 rolls.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

Thats for a 2m roll. 1/2 of what you get from HK

maekju

My bad, I don't know where 4m came from. Guess I need to get new glasses. Anyway $4.65 plus $6.95 shipping, shipping is free with minimum $50 order, vs $15.99 for ultra and you get the same quantity as ultra I think it's still a good deal.

GallopingGhostler

It is a wee bit more than Hobby King if based on square footage received. However, I don't need a 5 meter long roll of each color and it allowed me more flexibility for my use at best cost for that purpose, and at least 1/3rd of the cost of the name brand films.

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

ok guys
this really sounds good. am building a taurus and trying to decide to go with maybe two colors and striaght line trimming
but after reading this have ordered enough fot the old traditional colors of the taurus.
before I start what temps did you guys use to attach and then shrink the film?
not quite to the covering stage yet but getting closer, covering it as ed did whould be the way to go I think.
first build from plans in a while and not knowing how this thing will fly did not want to invest in3 or so
rolls of monokote or other at about 20.00 a roll.
thanks for any tips and advice on its use

happy flying, no crashes

pt19 flyer

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I have never used a thermometer and my iron has no numbers on it. I just grab a piece of sheeting and use test strips until I get the iron set to the correct temp. All I can tell you is it goes on with less heat then Ultra so you have an idea of where to set your iron for the first try. I used the iron to shrink most of it and just kept turning it up until it started to shrink it. When I used the heat gun it was on high but I held it about a foot away and watched the covering ripple as it shrunk. It doesn't tend to get holes blown in it like mono, it shrinks like Ultra only faster. If any of the white backing shows up don't worry about it, I used a cloth with some acetone on it to remove it. Sometimes on a roll over with the iron the white showed up. Not a big deal. Once our temperature got into the 100s here I assembled the plane and let it set in the sun and the covering didn't sag or wrinkle. It has been in the hot sun several times now and still no bubbles or sags. If anything it is as easy as the TEX coverings to use.

pt19 flyer

My Feedback: (1)

ok Gray Beard
thanks for reply and info.
will be trying it out shortly on a telemaster 40 and later on a taurus
which I flew many many years ago. haven't built a kit in some time so long
know how tlhis one <taurus> will fly, this was from plans cutting out all parts.
telemaster was an old kit.
on the taurus was looking at super shrink <an old one, think it is not made anymore> and painting
solid and a little trim but after seeing the china kote at that price will probably try the kaz color scheme.
will see how this turns out. was not looking at 20.00 a roll for mono or ultra. probably take at lease 3.

thanks for reply and info
pt19 flyer

Dad3353

Good evening, all, and apologies for resurrecting such an old topic. Consider me to be an absolute newbie beginner, despite my advancing years (now retired...), with only limited experience in balsa, tissue and dope, 'way back then'. Here's my question...
I'm finishing the covering of an electric glider (Goldberg Electra...), and have successfully covered the plane with Solarfilm and Oracover. I've not enough of these to finish the wings, and so ordered Burnt Orange (in fact, yellow...) film from Hobbyking. Now, while I'm convinced that I'll be able to complete my plane with this, I have not been able to separate the film from its backing sheet. Yes, I've tried sticky tape each side in the corner, and also lightly scoring to get a handle on the film to pull it apart, but with absolutely no success. I had no such problem with the other films I used, and wonder if there's any other 'secret' system that anyone could reveal. As a last resort, I could just ditch the rolls I now have and invest in Solarfilm, despite the waste and extra expense. What am I missing..? Is there an incantation to be chanted, standing on one leg at midnight, or offering incense to the Powers That Be required..? I'm at a loss; any help or advice would be gratefully received. Thanks, then, in advance; meanwhile...
Have a nice day
Douglas

AwwNaww

I am a genuine geezer with some limited finger dexterity. While I love the hobby king stuff, I also found it challenging to separate from the "release" film. I usually stick a piece of scotch tape to the release film (at a corner) to give me a handle and, pull the film over my thumb. I then pick gently at the edge of the top (colored side) edge with the point of an exacto knife. It takes a little swearing but have been able to get there from here. I almost always have to get it started with a sharp point...the usual sticky tape alone tactic hasn't worked as well.

Flypaper 2

Another trick is to lay the film , covering side down and at a corner.Take the backside of your exacto blade and scrape the backing film towards the corner , about a 1/4 in. from the corner and towards the corner. With any luck the backing will curl away from the covering.