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Pull-Pull system advice needed...

Old 10-31-2013, 02:47 AM
  #26  
DaleJEckart
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Originally Posted by vasek
If crossed, the exposed part of the wire is significantly smaller & the exit hole in the fuse looks better (better angle for drilling) it just looks better IMO

Cheers, V.

P.S. if lines are metal, I use a piece of tubing where they cross. Even better, if possible attach the wires this way to the servo horn : one on the top, the other on the bottom. Of course that depends on the attach point type used. I use the ball link type that screws onto the s. arm so I can put one on top & one on the bottom, wires never touch
This begs the question Why doesn't somebody produce dual sided servo arms that are offset? Although (and this assumes perfect alignment and angles of hinges and horns, which is NOT going to happen in my builds anyway except by accident, HA HA) that setup would induce binding, albeit a very small amount, geometrically...
Old 10-31-2013, 03:59 AM
  #27  
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You mean like these... They make them for JR, Futaba and Hitec.



Bob
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by sensei
You mean like these... They make them for JR, Futaba and Hitec.



Bob
No I meant one side higher than center, the other side lower than center - so that if you crossed lines they wouldn't touch. Actually I have a couple of those and will be getting more. Way worth the extra cha-ching for the metal arms, IMHO.

Last edited by DaleJEckart; 10-31-2013 at 04:34 AM.
Old 10-31-2013, 06:04 AM
  #29  
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I run pull/pull on rudder and elevator on all my pattern planes.

I use nylon coated, braided stainless steel fishing trace and it is available in diferent sizes. The nylon coating prevents any wear through exit holes or if the wires touch.

Kevlar will fray at the exit holes.

Crossed or straight doesn't really matter but in alot of cases, especially on smaller models, crossing the wires gives a better set up.
Old 10-31-2013, 07:19 AM
  #30  
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Well, if your heart is set on that, you can always install one clevis above the arm and the other below.

Regardless, coated cables rubbing on their cross over points has never been a problem. If one uses bare steel cables, it might cause RFI so I would never use uncoated cables. Of course Kevlar eliminates any possibility for RFI and teflon coated kevlar is the slickest there is at fuse exits....I remove a small length of teflon coating when tying the knots and dripping ca on the knots. No need for ferrules

The biggest advantage to running nylon coated steel cables is the fact that connections to theaded rods or eyeloops becomes trivial. What we do (In Pattern circles) is to fold the nylon coated end over and run a match flame over the nylon insulation, remelting the nylon slightly. Many guys don't add any ferrules and swear that none are necessary but I always have (in the distant past when I used steel).
Old 10-31-2013, 08:03 AM
  #31  
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All of my planes have the pull-pull system criss-crossed, it usually does give a better straight shot to the control horn. I run all of my wires through plastic antenna tubing so they do not rub against each other.


Good diagrams Sensei...
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:47 AM
  #32  
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Vincent, that's a clean install, thanks for sharing !
Old 10-31-2013, 10:10 AM
  #33  
DaleJEckart
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Originally Posted by VincentJ
All of my planes have the pull-pull system criss-crossed, it usually does give a better straight shot to the control horn. I run all of my wires through plastic antenna tubing so they do not rub against each other.


Good diagrams Sensei...
I'm liking that install... not quite sure why, but the tailwheel does NOT turn off the rudder, I need a seperate control rod for the rudder... but I will run it off the same servo, just in a hole from the rudder clevis.
Old 10-31-2013, 10:24 AM
  #34  
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Dale, another set of cables can be run from your servo arm directly to the tail wheel tiller for a more responsive action if need be. I've always been happy with how well the response has been with this type of set-up...

Last edited by VincentJ; 10-31-2013 at 10:30 AM.
Old 10-31-2013, 01:21 PM
  #35  
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McMaster Carr has some amazing cable for this use even though that is not what it is intended for. I use a vinyl coated cable they offer that is seven strands of seven strands, if that makes sense. It is as flexible as string but is steel. The great part is that you can tie it in a knot instead of crimping. After it is tied you heat the knot with a lighter to just melt the vinyl. The result is a permanent knot. I use it on my 30cc and 50cc planes. Have used it for two seasons and it works great.

McMaster item # 34235T23

FYI, they have fuel line of all types and an amazing amount of items useful to us.
Old 10-31-2013, 03:39 PM
  #36  
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Vasek,

Have you ever ordered anything from this company in the Czeck Republic?

www.aerocockpit.com


AEROTEAM, Ltd. Svarov 922
755 01, Vsetin
Czech Republic

They show a really nice custom cockpit for my Skyshark P-40 but I am concerned if they are a good company to deal with.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Keith
Old 10-31-2013, 06:19 PM
  #37  
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Keith, yes and no. I did buy this product but from a distributor overseas, believe it or not it was cheaper then buying it here. Go figure...

The product is very good, the company I can't say, but I always get better service from the "western block" LOL.

Hope this helps, V.
Old 10-31-2013, 06:40 PM
  #38  
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I use pull-pull all the time. I have a 1/4 scale vintage sailplane with cable operated everything and I mean everything! Cables from the joystick and rudder bar travel over pulleys to the control surfaces including the ailerons. Some of the cables are routed though ferrules. I use products from Proctor-enterprises.com. Joe has everything you need: cables, swages, turnbuckles and all kinds of nice fittings!
Old 10-31-2013, 08:08 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ARUP

I use pull-pull all the time. I have a 1/4 scale vintage sailplane with cable operated everything and I mean everything! Cables from the joystick and rudder bar travel over pulleys to the control surfaces including the ailerons. Some of the cables are routed though ferrules. I use products from Proctor-enterprises.com. Joe has everything you need: cables, swages, turnbuckles and all kinds of nice fittings!
ARUP,

I could barely stop admiring the construction and in particular the joint reinforcements.

Not many people believe the considerable strenght increase for very litlle added weight.

Nice work well worth a bit more tme in building and the result difference in a bad landing.

Zor
Old 11-01-2013, 11:33 AM
  #40  
DaleJEckart
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Ok, I have a good idea of how I am going to proceed...but I'd like to see the connections at the rudder/elevators if you guys that have Midwest SS's have photos or can take photos of your setups. Just got home and mocked up the tail section, and if I want to put the horns UNDER the horizontal stab (which of course I do), there is not much room between the rudder and the elevators for an offset of the size I would need...
Old 11-04-2013, 02:44 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by vasek
Keith, yes and no. I did buy this product but from a distributor overseas, believe it or not it was cheaper then buying it here. Go figure...

The product is very good, the company I can't say, but I always get better service from the "western block" LOL.

Hope this helps, V.

Thanks Vasek!

They said they work through " I fly tailies" so I can go either way. I just wanted to know if they make a good product? The pictures look amazing and I really like the cockpit they have for the P-40.


Keith
Old 11-07-2013, 02:10 PM
  #42  
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Are those hinge points on the elevator??? Haven't tried those before, what do you think of them?
Old 11-08-2013, 05:01 PM
  #43  
Steve S. Helland
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Dale,
The hinge points work very well. If installed correctly they rarely pull out. It seems like the CA hinges always come out over time...the hinge points do not. I have an old Big Bingo with hundreds of flights on it using Robart hinge points with only one at the top of the rudder that came loose. 12 years and going strong. I encourage you to look at as many pictures as you can on this subject. The leading edge of the control surface will have to be trimmed where the hinge point lies to put the center of movement into perspective. I have an example right now up on my building board that would show what not to do. I have many examples of how it should be done.
Old 11-08-2013, 05:24 PM
  #44  
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I've been using ca hinges on models up to 2 meters for 17 years and have never had one pull out.

One of my 2 meter pattern ships is 11 years old with ca hinges. No problems at all.
Old 11-08-2013, 08:38 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by drac1

I've been using ca hinges on models up to 2 meters for 17 years and have never had one pull out.

One of my 2 meter pattern ships is 11 years old with ca hinges. No problems at all.

drac1,

I can think of many reasons for your success with CA hinges.

Zor
Old 11-09-2013, 12:27 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Zor
drac1,

I can think of many reasons for your success with CA hinges.

Zor
good thinking...

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